Aurora R6, Corsair CX650 PSU not working

pictures are worth 1,000 words (each), so we don't have to ask the dumb questions.

For this particular unit, did you connect power for the graphics card to both the card and the mobo?

Yeah, the GPU power header is tricky, because it accepts an 8 pin, and it's located by the PCIe slots, so it's inviting you to stick a PCIe power connector in there, when you're only supposed to stick a 4 pin aux, on the left side. 

learn too that the card may only need 20watts or less to run windows, desktop, (have proof and lab scopes,etc)

even only 1amp flowing on that 3 yellow wire set (AUX)

then when you game the Card, (fast fast AAA+ games) the card then uses 175 watts on the 3 wire set.yellow.
the aux jacks set jumps to 15amps, and 6 amps on the PCI-e slot B1 (set) 21am ps total,It can be.

so folks saying "runs great with wrong power are wrong",  they forgot to run high end games.

if you do this right,  the GAME clocks the snarf at of the card and uses huge current flows, and surges TOO

more.

that faster you clock the CMOS logic the more power it burns (wasted heat) , this is true for all cards.

if power is not there the PC crashes and BSOD's or just locks up dead.

as they say , this is NOT your fathers Oldsmobile.  rings true , most folks never land here, in the 250watt world of gaming cards.

I run GTX1050 ti xotac and R9-380 and the latter is hog,  old hog but fast.

the 1050 plays top 10 games on steam ok,,  no need for 250 watts here. not yet.

so why not do that serially, not slam all that at once.

here is how, in order.

1. pull power plug, and do  the long power reset now, push the power button to discharge all CAP.s in the pC.
2. then replace the PSU first. and dont forget the CPU VRM 4 pin power plug or the CPU will be (dead)
3. does the PC run just like before now,  this is first always. do things 1 at a time. (less pain)
4. then now that the PC runs like before just has more watts possible. you.
5. you go to device manager, then, disable the old GPU card, there,  (makes next boot 10x more easy )
6. then pull AC line again, from wall
7. next do the hard reset , hold power for 10 seconds, (this is called not hotswapping for fun and stressing parts. per line 1 above. ok use grounded wrist strap to touch internal parts and cards. ok?
8. remove old card, put in new card, (to remove X16 card do not force the lock there, bend lock to release it.
9. install new GPU card.
10. Install the 1 or 2 Aux power cables from PSU to card or  it will not work. if you have 2 jacks there both must have power or the VRM s on the card will be BORN DEAD. (just offline)  up to 6 yellow wires there may be needed, ATX  spec,  8pins are 3 , yellows each. try to know that 1080 tells me nothing at all, learn there are 100s of cards with just 4 numbers like that and all have different power needs and jacks, next time post link to somesite selling your EXACT card, then we can read the manual with you and see omg two 8 pin ATX12v jacks there, (must be powerhog and is)

see this page, see over 100 cards NOT the same and all with 1080 marked.  which one?

https://www.newegg.com/p/pl?d=1080

some 1080's need  250watt all by its self, or 180w, not the TI.

one card I see there (cheapest) has only ONE 8 pin ATX jack.

that means at least 3 pins of the 8 are yellow, (12vdc) the forth pin in that row is sense 12vdc

21 amps of current needs to flow on those 3 pins, if not the card fails. , hard, (goes off line)

with these facts and steps, I bet it now works ok, right. 

the top causes of good returned cards are

wrong PSU

not connection the ATX12 aux cables. or some wrong adapters to here.

not resetting the system, last, doing a long hard power reset.

not inserting the X16 card 100% all the way down,

or not using the correct X16 slot,  on dells it's top blue slot, on R6 not sure. but is in the manual here.

in some cases not upgrading BIOS.

good luck,  

I'm definitely gonna add some pictures of how I have it plugged in right now hopefully that will show my problem.

I hope you guys can get any info out of those

At this time, only you can see your photos until they are Moderator approved. They have been extra sleepy lately.

photos finally mod approved

Ok thanks and yea I have it connected to the motherboard and GPU but I don't know if I have enough cables in my PSU to set it up I have    x1 ATX Cable 24 - pin,  x1 EPS/ATX12V Cable 8 - Pin, x2 PCIe Connectors 8 - Pin, x6 SATA connectors, x4 Peripheral Connectors. Someone had also said something about a 4-pin aux cord so I assumed he meant an ATX cord but I only have one of those and its already plugged into my CPU so I watched a video and it said I could plug in a 6 - pin or a 4 - pin confirming that is correct hopefully the pictures get confirmed soon I need to get on my computer soon.

x2 PCIe Connectors 8 - Pin

These would be for the graphics card; one in the card and one in the mobo.

You may only need 4 wires for the mobo, but 8 will not hurt anything.

CX 650 does not have enough power on the 3.3v/5v rails to EVER work. Minimum recommended would be EVGA 700BR https://www.bestbuy.com/site/evga-700w-atx12v-eps12v-80-plus-bronze-power-supply-dc-dc-technology-black/6346160.p?skuId=6346160

consider a fully modular PSU

Hello, I'm having the same issue, just wondering if you ever got it resolved

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@Anghellic33 wrote:

Hello, I'm having the same issue, just wondering if you ever got it resolved

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Read your PDF Service-Manual.

You must also replace all the cables when you switch to a different model power-supply.

Yes, Modular is always better. Only use the cables and wiring harnesses that come with the new one.

Users always get tripped-up on motherboard's GPU-PWR socket. It is NOT for a PCIe-Power-Cable (like that would plug-into a video-card).

Instead, it is more like the one that plugs in near the main-processor (CPU). A properly-spec-ed Power-Supply will have 2 of these.

Debugging 101: Don’t put in 2 new things? Just try to see if the system boots with the new PSU?