Inspiring from others like @r72019 I added a small fan (3-PIN no PWM) in place of the SSD bay, This fan was a replacement fan for a Netgear RND2000 NAS, so sticky taped it to the chassis and connected to the CPU Fan connector on the motherboard:
Ordering the SATA cable as it is not easy to "pull out" an unused SATA cable out of an R3 🙂
I suddenly have that "modding fever" back from long ago, lol. I really want to have this R8 cooling in a respectable manner.
I ordered some other bits too (fan, M2 drive, M2 PCIE adaptor).
So I plan to :
I will be looking for ideas how to open up air intake for this new (upper) front fan. I do not have a bezel to cut some slots.
Does anyone know of any alternatives?
Well I dug around to find the thread discussing dremelling the front bezel and now I see. Big thanks to @Dell630i for your beautiful mod and cable management and to @HanoverB for this awesome post here about cooling with fans, founded by many contributions from the community including Dell630i.
I have started:
Moved the HDD below to make way for the Noctua, the HDD now runs idle at 25°C instead of 34°C. This slightly increased my RTX 3080 fans from ~600 to ~640 RPM when idling at 1755Mhz to maintain the 60°C temp (under 60° the GPU fans cut out).
Added the Noctua 25mm fan as upper front intake on the Y cable supplied joining with the Noctua black front fan. I have not yet fixed it (ties or weather strip) as I am still stumbling how to go about working the front bezel without a dremel tool. 😞
SATA Cables arrived, reconnected the optical drive.
Did a Timespy test to see the affects on the CPU temperatures. Of course the Timespy mark is around the same value (15363)
The CPU test gives a nice 82°C max instead hitting around the 100°C, without cutting the bezel. I am happy the fan is worth it.
@markburv The CPU test gives a nice 82°C max instead hitting around the 100°C, without cutting the bezel. I am happy the fan is worth it.
Really great job modding! Thanks for sharing. Temps and performance will be much improved.
If you want to keep going; consider a couple ML120 Pro (no LED, no RGB) fans in a push/pull configuration for a radiator sandwich, and while you are there re-paste the CPU with some good quality TIM.
I will consider the ML 120 Pro Non RGB sandwich in the not so near future, thanks for the link.
Nice PC there in your modding fever link, result is really wow !!!
So before I start hacking the front bezel, did a Timespy test without the front bezel. CPU maxxed out at 75°C, the front upper fan is doing it's job very efficiently 🙂
Fixing the Fan in the HDD cage space.
Adding ties to hold it in position, a bit fiddly for the one deep down inside the cage to bend back round and thread back out. Top one was easier.
Plastic Ties trimmed down
The fan is well wedged in on the scrw at the bottom, just slightly inclined.
Close up look to the ties on the fan and a bit of cable tidying.
For the test before 75°, Top fan offset +35%, front fans offset 67%, the Noctuas are so quiet, the Top fan really covers it. Overall the noise levels are acceptable, a headset is a must for gaming.
AWCC max offset setting for front fans cannot exceed +67%, otherwise the front fan will spin down and stop.
I pushed Top and front fans to max, ran Timespy, 72°C, a gain of 3°C, overall up to 27°C less than before the fan existed.
@markburv I am keeping the front bezel off for now, while I think about how to drill/cut/sabotage it
There is a thread that is currently almost 200 pages long . . . so I won't link to that 😂
But this is a capture from that discussion regarding opening the Aurora R8 front bezel to allow air flow to a top intake fan. I think you would just need to trim a little of that top piece of the box frame in the red circle . . . or even just cut several slots in it to allow air to flow to the top . . . not major surgery.