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Re: Aurora R8, Experience of Buying

@GTS81   Your schematic needs to be updated to the latest backdrop with the rads pushed out, towersreservoirs mounted, and PSU shroud placed.

You are right . . . I need to have everything in place to see what fits and make sure I am not missing something.

What's your plan in connecting them to the pass-through fittings? Compression fitting + bends? Or Compression + angled fitting + straights?

Still working on that plan . . . whatever it takes to make it fit. I am trying to do as few fittings as possible.

What about that T-split below the CPU socket for the RAM blocks? I can't think of a bend + fittings combination that can prevent the fitting/ tubes from encroaching over the top of the CPU waterblock.

Yeah, not sure about that either. This is the fitting combo I purchased for the T-split. The fact that the CPU block will be a different height from the mobo than the RAM blocks ( as you point out), will actually be helpful.

IMG_5096.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So far the only solution I have come up with to avoid crossing tubes in the back is to cross tubes in the front; that is . . . the inlet/outlet for the CPU block would need to be the two outer pass-through fittings and the outlet for the two RAM blocks would need to be the inner two pass-through fittings, meaning those tubes would cross in the front room. I am not very satisfied with that solution.

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Re: Aurora R8, Experience of Buying

@Dell630i :

So far the only solution I have come up with to avoid crossing tubes in the back is to cross tubes in the front; that is . . . the inlet/outlet for the CPU block would need to be the two outer pass-through fittings and the outlet for the two RAM blocks would need to be the inner two pass-through fittings, meaning those tubes would cross in the front room. I am not very satisfied with that solution.

I don't know why but those multi-style dresses that used to be in style came to mind. Halter cross in front or crossed at the back? 😂

No, I never owned one of those.

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Re: Aurora R8, Experience of Buying


@GTS81 wrote:

@Dell630i :

I don't know why but those multi-style dresses that used to be in style came to mind. Halter cross in front or crossed at the back? 😂

No, I never owned one of those.


A halter-top or a pass-thru fitting?  😂

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Re: Aurora R8, Experience of Buying

Pass through top

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Re: Aurora R8, Experience of Buying

@GTS81 

What are those 3 Thermaltake controller looking boxes, middle one circled in green? The three buttons are labeled 'speed', 'play/pause' & 'mode'.

01 Origin.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Notice in the lower right corner this guy has an acrylic rectangle to cover his PSU cabling from the back. He has tubes running on the outside of that cover. I'm pretty sure I can do two layer tubing and have tubes cross over each other. Unfortunately, if I drill a hole for a pass-through fitting and it doesn't work, I am starting fresh with a new back panel.

 

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Re: Aurora R8, Experience of Buying

@Dell630i :

Will wait for the pic to post.

Unfortunately, if I drill a hole for a pass-through fitting and it doesn't work, I am starting fresh with a new back panel.

Return to your original idea of the cardboard panel and drill there to plug in the pass-through fitting?

I'm abandoning the idea of a motherboard armor for the IPCFL-SC/R R3FWM. The connectors are scattered and their placement makes it impossible to make continuous piece of material to cover the electronics. I think the color is half decent so will just go ahead with transplant as-is.

No wires were crimped in this mod.No wires were crimped in this mod.

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Re: Aurora R8, Experience of Buying

@GTS81    Return to your original idea of the cardboard panel and drill there to plug in the pass-through fitting?

Actually, I remembered I have a bunch of extra acrylic, including a whole other back panel to use for testing. Last night I ordered a bunch of 10mm, 15mm & 20mm Bitspower extension fittings to see if it will work. With 'zero' experience doing this kind of build, everything turns out to be 'trial and error', with hopefully less of the latter. The next build will be a lot easier  😷

One thing I am considering is bringing some of the tubing runs from behind the panel into the front, without making it too 'busy'.  🤔

Cosmos front schematic.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

IMG_5101.JPG

 

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Re: Aurora R8, Experience of Buying

@Dell630i 

What are those 3 Thermaltake controller looking boxes, middle one circled in green? The three buttons are labeled 'speed', 'play/pause' & 'mode'.

RGB controllers 😂https://www.ttpremium.com/product/lumi-color-256c/

Notice in the lower right corner this guy has an acrylic rectangle to cover his PSU cabling from the back. He has tubes running on the outside of that cover. I'm pretty sure I can do two layer tubing and have tubes cross over each other.

I see that you're gonna try something that Mark of Declassified Systems has done. His work is world renowned. From this page: https://builds.gg/builds/custom-pc-build-49-origin-cooler-master-cosmos-c700p-bound-to-new-york-u-s-... it seems like both side panels do close after the mod. This is despite the 16/12mm tubes. In fact, you can see the lower left where the tube starts from the fitting being half outside of the chassis frame and then becomes totally outside of the frame at the lower horizontal edge towards that plastic PSU cover. That means you'll probably have that much of space to play with for your tube runs.

One thing I am considering is bringing some of the tubing runs from behind the panel into the front, without making it too 'busy'. 🤔

Two words for that: Distro Plate. 😂

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Re: Aurora R8, Experience of Buying

@GTS81    RGB controllers

So do I need that? I am pretty sure the Cosmos already has RGB control in the I/o panel for the OEM lighting. Do I plug the EKWB lights into the same controller, or do I need to get something else I don't have room for anywhere  😱

 

 

 

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Re: Aurora R8, Experience of Buying

@Dell630i :

So do I need that? I am pretty sure the Cosmos already has RGB control in the I/o panel for the OEM lighting. Do I plug the EKWB lights into the same controller, or do I need to get something else I don't have room for anywhere 😱

I read the user manual for the Cosmos: https://coolermaster.egnyte.com/dl/F817I2GRXM/

And your motherboard: https://download.msi.com/archive/mnu_exe/mb/E7B96v1.1.pdf

So assuming the only EKWB lighting you have are from the towersreservoirs. Those are Quantum line hence 5V ARGB.

You rmotherboard has the follow RGB headers:

JRGB1 - 12V DRGB (usually older legacy RGB. Slowly getting phased out)

JRAINBOW1 and JRAINBOW2 - 5V Addressable RGB

JCORSAIR - Forget this unless if you have Corsair RGB fans

The tricky part here is your Cosmos also has an RGB controller, very similar to that TT one. CM appears to be generous by giving you 4 channels of ARGB but then robs you of 3 for the casing RGB. There is 1 more channel you can use but you must remember to use the cable provided with the Cosmos which is a splitter combining RGB headers with SATA power. If you plug in a regular RGB splitter (Akasa and EKWB are usual brands. I have 2 Akasas), and hook up too many LEDs to it, you can blow up the controller. So remember to use that splitter cable which is shown in page 2 of the Cosmos manual.

On pages 23 and 24 are details on ARGB connection and the controller. What you'll want to do is to connect one cable from a JRAINBOW header on your mobo to the "MB A-RGB Sync Connector (D)". Once you do that, use MSI Dragon to control everything, there is a setting you can use to sync and override everything so you don't have to download CM RGB software. Now for all your RGB wires in the rig, if they are 5V, you may connect them to either the free JRAINBOW header or to the Cosmos controller, but just remember to use the provided splitter. Just don't use the CM's splitter if you're using JRAINBOW header else your PSU is gonna zap your mobo.

I've recently read about some builds that stumbled at the end just because of RGB like dead LEDs etc. So maybe good to find a way to test them. 🤔

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