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98507

October 31st, 2009 17:00

Overclocking the Auroras?

So far I've ordered 5 of these for customers, under the assumption they were still using decent overclocking MBs. After working on the first two I can say these are the absolute worst OC motherboards I've ever dealt with. Am I missing something? On every other board I've ever used I had no problem getting the i7 920s to 4.0ghz....but I can't even get them to 3.0ghz on this Aurora board. Alienware used to use Asus boards, but it looks like they are now using some sort of cheap Dell board. I don't know what to do, my customers are expecting overclocked computers!

13 Posts

November 20th, 2009 22:00

Water cooling isn't THAT bad now. For the i7's just keep the temp protection setting in the BIOS on. If something does fail, and the CPU reaches meltdown tempts it'll turn the computer off. I've had PC's shut down (back during the Pentium 4 days) when my pump failed to come on with the system. It shut itself down no problem. In fact after I was done with it I gave that box to a friend who still uses it today.

I'll agree that all-in-one water cooling kits are only as good as high quality air cooling right now. The H50 for instance (arguably the best all-in-one water cooler) runs right along side the TRUE or Prolimatech Magalem. I was going to reuse the alienware h50 when I decided to go high end water instead. I already had a pump, black ice extreme III radiator, and fittings from my old athlon x2 64 box. For less than the price of good air cooler I was able to pickup a D-Tek Fuzion v2 block and get FAR better temps than the H50. Keep in mind, I had this stuff... back when I bought all of it new (including the various blocks) I spend a good $400-$500 putting together my loop.
The advantage of water over air is lower temps with less noise (more fans running as a lower RPM), with the disadvantage of possibly destroying your system if there is a leak. The H50 is just as loud and hot as a TRUE, so there is no performance advantage there at all. I will say the H50 costs a little less overall, as most high end air coolers don't come with a fan, and the H50 does.
Honestly, I would have gone air had I not reused my high-end water cooling stuff. 

As for the sound card, onboard audio is pretty good these days. Still I'm not a big fan of onboard sound because of the minuscule system resources they use up... which I would prefer they didn't... so I still do use cards for gaming and what not. For serious audio work I use an Onyx 400f.
For Vista or Windows 7 stay clear of X-fi cards.
In Vista they removed the Hardware Abstraction Layer (HAL) for DirectSound and DirectSound3D. The HAL is the software layer that enabled an audio card like the Sound Blaster X-Fi, to provide DirectSound3D applications (like most games) with hardware accelerated audio. This enabled soundcards to perform tasks such as sample-rate conversion, mixing, 3D spatialization using HRTFs, filtering, and effects processing. Without the HAL, DirectSound in Vista is rendered in software with non of that advanced functionality.
I ordered my Aurora with the SB Titanium card and was really upset with I couldn't get games to use 5.1 via optical (even with Dolby Digital Live enabled). I also was unable to get Alchemy (an app that is supposed to solve the issue with Vista's lack of support) to work.
Luckily there are non x-fi cards that DO work... like the HT Omega Claro series.
I was a supporter of X-fi because I loved the surround support they had, but they no longer have that advantage.

27 Posts

November 21st, 2009 16:00

Hey Belia and Everyone Else,

 

I ordered my parts.  I took your advice for MOST of the recommendations(and I truly appreciate your valuable information,) but I caved in and went overkill with the EVGA 4 way SLI classified x58 motherboard and the Corsair Dominator 6GB GT DDR 2000 RAM.  I wanted to order all my parts together, and NEWEGG didn't carry those ulra-high performance Progmatech Coolers or whatever they were called in your last post, so I ended up buying the Zalman CNPS9900LED 120mm All Copper Cooler.  I hope it doesn't stink.  Ratings were pretty good so I went with it.  Luckily for me, the computer case I bought(Thermaltake Armor plus BWS6000)  is one of the very few cases that are directly compatible with the size of my mb, so I realllly lucked out there.  I didn't know the MB was so big, and did not know cases for my MB were limited. Again, got lucky.

 

I looked on the EVGA forums, and there was an overclocking guide for the i920 for my series of motherboards.  I have different ram than the guy who made the post(he has 1600 ddr3, I have 2000 ddr3) so i wanted to know what I would have to do(according to his guide) to properly configure/overclock my ram, but also to get the i920 to 4.0 ghz.  He took his to 4.5 on air, but his voltages looked dangerously high(and i don't evne know what dangerously high is) and I don't want to follow his guide exactly because I'm afraid I'll fry my CPU.  Can you guys take a look and tell me what I should do? Is his guide legit?  Thanks!

 

http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?m=20028

 

Itachi


15 Posts

November 21st, 2009 17:00

Those boards like that are so big because they are compatible with the Tesla Supercomputer build specs. That is why I was saying it is overkill for your needs. Obviously its a well built board, but has many features you don't need for a standard build.

When overclocking the i7 never exceed 1.45v on the cpu and 1.65 on the Ram. You shouldn't have to get that high on the cpu to get to 4.0, though. Most will get there at around 1.38 -1.40.  Also, watch your temps, and make sure they don't go into the 70s for any extended period while running prime 95 stress test.

The Ram will overclock as you overclock the bclk...so adjust your Ram multiplier down to run at its stated speed, and also make sure the timings are set correctly. That is pretty much it...there are several step by step i7 OC guides on the web to help you out if you have any trouble. Main thing is watch your voltages and you don't have to worry about damaging anything.

27 Posts

November 21st, 2009 18:00

Belia,

 

Thanks so much yet again!   Let me know if anyone psycho enough asks you to build them a system with 4 ATI RADEON 5970's or 4 GTX 295's. LOL. 8 gpu's.  Will that even work? I wonder how much power supply u need for that.

 

Thanks man.  You got a paypal address? let me send you some moula for your wonderful advice. It's the least I could do.

 

 

itachi

15 Posts

December 1st, 2009 15:00

I don't know the exact bios date of all of mine, but I received them all by the middle - late October, so I assume that is the bios in question.

Community Manager

 • 

54.2K Posts

December 1st, 2009 15:00

All,

For my notes, your all running this bios?

Aurora/Aurora ALX 9/29/2009 A01

13 Posts

December 1st, 2009 15:00

Yes, A01 is the correct version.

Community Manager

 • 

54.2K Posts

December 1st, 2009 16:00

For all of you guys running the i7 920 CPU, checking on release dates now.

Aurora Bios A04 (Aurora-A04.exe) and Area 51 Bios A03 (Area_51-A03.exe) = Added support for Intel Core i7 920 processor overclocking

91 Posts

December 2nd, 2009 08:00

I posted a message to let everyone at niche know. We will soon find out how it goes.

27 Posts

December 3rd, 2009 19:00

Belia, HackerZ,

 

I somehow managed to build my very first system from SCRATCH.  I made sure everything was done right.  Booted the system, got no display and my GIGABYTE RADEON 5970 video card failed. OH GOD was I angry.  It was definitely a lemon, so I sent it back for a refund to NewEgg, because the 5970's are sold out everywhere, couldn't even get a replacement and people are trying to sell them on Ebay for over $850. Are you kidding me? 

Popped in my old ATI video card from my old PC and my system ran perfect, other than the bad VIDEO.  HackerZ and moreover Belia, the parts and advice you recommended for me were GREAT, even though I opted to get the EVGA Classified 4 Way SLI board along with the 2000 MHZ Corsair Dominator Ram, the other items you recommended like the SAMSUNG Spinpoint HDD's are awesome, and the new ANTEC 1200W PSU is AWESOME, had ALL the cables I needed.  However, the motherboard and RAM are perfect, it is specifically made for OC'ing and I needed a FULL Tower case, so I got the THERMALTAKE ArmorPlus 6000 which has PLENTY of airflow and space, so maybe it WAS a good idea getting this board, because it forced me to get this case.

To make a long story short I had absolutely no BIOS problems, the MOBO has extra power inputs for people who specifically OC their i7's but also for people who CROSSFIRE/SLI their video cards.  My second 5970(This one is from Sapphire) came in the day I returned the GIGABYTE, and that was convenient.  The Sapphire ran perfectly.  I'm never purchasing another GIGABYTE product. I do not even know if they are a reputable company.  I guess CROSSFIRE has to wait, a POWERCOLOR Radeon 5970 I found on the internet is coming tomorrow =)

My stock voltages were at 1.25 for the i920, with temps being around 40 idle.  Thought this was slightly high, because I remember seeing the i975 run 3.33 ghz at 1.15V STOCK, plus I've seen many people with good air-cooling who hit 3.6-3.8 ghz and hit 40 at idle with 1.25 V.  I lowered my voltage from 1.25 to 1.15, safely overclocked from 2.66-3.33  20X167 and the setup has been so stable with no issues, i knew the i920 i7 was made to be this way.  Temps dropped from 40 to 35 using 1.15 V on idle with stock 2.66 ghz, and after I Oc'ed from 2.66 to 3.33, my temps are hovering around 38-39 idle.  My system is running rock solid. Not a crash, reboot, and all overclocking was done successfully on the first try with no problems, but it's probably because I barely overclocked the CPU. I still think from 2.66-3.33 is a decent jump.  I like keeping things ULTRA safe.  I am too chicken to go to 4.0, but i'll do that if a game or program comes out that requires all that power. I think 3.33 can run everything just fine.  Let me know if I can overclock to 3.6 or even 3.8 with 1.15V's or do i need to go higher?  Since my motherboard has an auxillary/dedicated power channel for the cpu/overclocking, is this why I do not need to raise voltages that high?  Or am i lucky and got a great "cherry picked" i7 chip?

Other than that, all I need to do is CROSSFIRE the 2 5970's, and then my system should be complete.  All in all, the total cost of my Aurora was 4200, but once I returned that, I built my system with much betters parts that came out to around 3700.   Not as cheap as I thought but I still saved money and plenty of future heartaches, plus got top of the line parts for every component.

Thanks for everything guys.  It feels so good not having any PC trouble. Windows 7 has just been amazing, and I think it's highly underrated.  BTW, have you guys looked at recent AURORA build options on the Alienware site?  They now offer overclocked i920's (to 3.2 ghz) for 200 dollars.  Maybe people in management have been reading our threads and realized that the i920 is THE best i7 chip.  I've come to realize that among all the i920's, 940's, 950's, 960's, 970's, there is still only ONE Intel i7.  All that stuff about overclocking and getting a better processor is all marketing mumbo-jumbo.  Thanks for helping me realize this guys.  It truly was a valuable lesson.

 

On a another note, I built my PC from scratch in a little over 4 hours, and I have never built a system from SCRATCH, i've only replaced HDD's and Video cards in my lifetime, so to have DELL take 1-2 months to build a PC is absolutely ludicrous.  All these delays MUST be from video card or component shortages.  I'll let you know if I run into any issues.  I have my dream machine all thanks to this "Overclocking the Aurora" thread.

 

Itachi

13 Posts

December 4th, 2009 04:00

Glad you made out ok... well, aside from the GFX card issues, but that'll be worked out in no time.

And you are absolutely correct about the processors, it's all about marketing.

 

As a side note, I run mine at 4Ghz 24/7 no problem... then again I'm using high-end water cooling right now. With the h50 cooler (what the dell came with) I was getting 41c-42c idle @ 4Ghz (on my Asus board of course). With my current cooling I get that same speed, but running 10c cooler.

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