Troubleshoot USB compatibility issues

Version of Windows?

Open Device Manager and expand list under USB. Double-click a Root Hub entry and then click its Power Management tab. Make sure the box "Allow PC to turn off..." is not checked. Repeat for all USB root hubs.

Then go to the Power options screen in Windows. Select the active Power plan and navigate to the Advanced options settings page. On this screen, find USB settings in list on left and disable USB Selective Suspend. Save the change to power plan, if prompted.

Reboot when done and see if that fixes the problem.

Hi, Ron,

Well, regarding the USB problem, as I reported in the other thread I have double-checked all the settings you suggested and it didn't help.  Here's some additional info that I forgot to include the first time.

One of my cohorts at work suggested that I get one of those PCIe cards that gives you an additional four USB ports, thinking that if the Dell drivers are at fault, another source for both hardware and firmware might make a difference.  So I got one and installed it.  I still get the very same issues that the 'native' ports exhibit.

I am really reluctant to blame this on the computer, as it works just fine with anything else I hook up to a USB port, whether it's an original Dell 2.0 or 3.0 port, or one of the four new 3.0 ones working off some NEC chip on the PCIe board.  But it's hard to fault the Analog Devices interface, as it works fine with any other computer that I, or that others in the company, have ever used with this development program.  It's not that there's an initial connectivity issue because it does shake hands.  But what happens is that communication back and forth, between the program running on the computer and the hardware at the other end of the USB hose, gets interrupted and halts the program.  I think next I'll look at the USB data lines with a scope and see if logic levels are any different between any of the computers I've run with this utility in the past and the new 3650.  I sure hope I can find out what's going on and fix it, because the Dell is so very much faster than what I'd used in the past.

Thanks again!

Yes, Ron,

This is all Windows 10, by the way.  A driver disc came with that PCIe port card, which I loaded with no problem.  Since that card did nothing to help the issue, I figure I'll pull it out.  Six USB ports are enough, I don't need ten.

Another fellow suggested trying a hub.  I first tried one without its own brick and it would not connect with that Analog Devices interface.  Then I tried another, that did have an external power supply, same thing.  I would try to bust this off in Analog Devices, but they are singularly unresponsive and refer me to their Forum, which has proved no help so far.  I figure on continuing to run the two computers side-by-side, the Dell for everything else, and the terrible little Asus 'mini' bolted onto the back of the monitor for just this one application.  Thanks for your help.

Do you need to load a driver for that hardware? And is the driver and/or any control software compatible with whatever version of Windows is running?

Are you just overloading the USB root hubs? Some times a PC will start ignoring a device when the hubs are overloaded.

Maybe an externally powered USB hub with its own power brick would help. Plug the brick into the wall and the hub into a rear USB port. Connect that device through the hub.

What about drivers for the DSP stuff?

Is that DSP software actually compatible with Win 10, or do you need to get an update for Win 10?

Was the externally powered hub connected to an onboard USB port or to one on the add-in PCI-e card? If you didn't already try, connect the powered hub to a rear onboard USB2 port, not to that add-in card.

BTW:  If the powered hub is only USB2, did you connect it to a USB3 or USB2 port on the PC?  A USB3 port should accept a USB2 device, but you never know what mysteries Microsoft baked into things. So try a rear USB2 port on PC, not on the card...

Ron, first, thanks very much for your continued concern and help.  I really want to get this issue resolved, and I can't figure out why I seem to be the only one with the problem.

I do have the two side-by-side PCs both running the same version of Windows 10.  The horrid little Asus connects and runs just fine, albeit like molasses, but the Dell just won't stay connected; that is after a handshake or two the program stops running. Other users of that DSP development program are running versions of Windows anywhere between XP and Win10.   Although other postings on the Analog Devices forum did report some initial problems with USB3 ports, that seems to be resolved.  The Asus will run the program and firmware just fine from either its USB2 or USB3 ports, the Dell fails on both.  I tried the 'hub trick' on all three varieties of Dell ports: native USB2, native USB3 and aftermarket-PCI USB3.  I never tried the hub on the Asus but should and will, and will report back.

Maybe I missed it in one of your two threads...

Do you have the latest version of BIOS (3.3.8), latest Intel chipset driver, and Intel Management Engine, and latest versions of both Intel Graphics driver and Nvidia video driver (depends on what video card you have)?

If you not...

One final note on this.  Although Device Manager 'sees' the Analog Devices USB interface hardware, I cannot connect to it through a USB hub, powered or unpowered, from either computer.  I looked at the D+ and D- lines at the USB connector on the Analog Devices interface, and see negligible difference between the Asus computer, which works flawlessly-but-slowly, and the Dell, which will not remain connected.  I have uploaded a comparison photo here:

www.dropbox.com/.../USB bits.jpg

...and the only real difference I can see is that the Dell has a slightly higher logical '1' value. Maddening.

Ron, I did a general 'update,' but not at all sure it included these items.  I'll check tomorrow.  Thanks!

someone who can analyze eye patterns and the like?

Have no idea what that means.

The only other thing I could suggest at this point is to do either a Windows 10 Reset or wipe the HDD and do a clean install.

Either way you'll have to back up your personal files on external media and then reinstall all drivers and your software. And if that doesn't help right off, you'll have to make all the same changes we already discussed here.