Inspiron Desktops

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Inspiron G5-5090, CPU cooler?


Normally, I build my own PC but I decided to go with a pre-built with DELL because the deal was too good to pass up. It just arrived on my doorstep, (a new Inspiron G5-5090 desktop) and everything seems to be in order. The only thing I noticed is that the CPU cooler pictured on this non-Dell website is different than the one I got. 


I got a much cheaper one. I'm guessing this is normal but I just wanted to make sure since this is my first DELL. I assume the one pictured on the website is reserved for different CPU's. I have a i7-9700 (non-K) if that matters. 


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For anyone wondering i fixed the issue. Apparently this whole time the cooler was installed correctly. The issue was more software based than anything. All i did was reduce the maximum processor state in the advanced power options from 100% to 99% which essentially disables the Intel turbo boost function. I've been testing this for about a month now and haven't seen any reduction in FPS or in performance whatsoever. Now i don't pass 50C while gaming and on full load. I also did a Dell hardware test and i dont pass 45C. Im happy I can sleep easy now.

The Noctua NH-U9S works great on this model.  No need to insert back plate.  Just buy some M3x14mm screws with washers to match and screw them in directly.  


@TJanesDoes the Noctua trigger any BIOS errors on cold boot?


Hey @Noorss thanks for this solution!

I'm planning on grabbing the Noctua and installing that as you did to see how it helps. I'm new to this - any idea if I'll run into power supply problems? I've only got the 360W PSU. Is that going to limit me in terms of installing fans to help cool? 


Just go to a SSD/NVMe setup for OS and storage, remove the front HDD bracket and install a Corsair H60 (2018) CPU Liquid Cooler in that upper front intake location and be done with it. 

Plug and play in that Intel socket without any modifications.   Attach four double sided pins into the motherboard, and used the mounting nuts to attach the pump head.  Hoses have rotating barbs, easy to place.   That location can take a 120mm fan and all you need are a couple of mounting locations to hold the radiator in place.  

You have plenty of airflow through that front bezel.  It's not that much more than the TX3 unit some of you are installing.   CPU temps in the low 60's using PWM and even low 50's under load with fixed CPU fan speeds if the motherboard header fan curve is too conservative.



I would have to know exactly how much power your other parts require. But generally replacing fans dont put that much strain on power supply.


@Nafe75 Have a look at the comment section on one of my videos on how to solve the bios error for the Noctua fan happening on a cold start.


@Noorss - thanks, but I dont have anywhere to mount the OEM in addition to the Noctua as I have retained the front HDD and cage for now. I have gone back to the OEM fan for now and temps are okay.



Most Noctua fans come with a number of accessories (Redux and black Chromax are exceptions)   

There is Y-adapter that comes with the 4 pin PWM fans that allows you to connect 2 fans to a single header..  One leg of the Y-adapter has 4 pins and can sense the RPM of the fan connected, the other has 3 pins and does not have that tach wire pin.  

There are times you run into a finicky fan header that throws a BIOS issue with certain fans because the RPM isn't seen at startup (some fans won't turn at startup due to required motherboard header voltage not being adequate, other fans aren't spinning at the required RPM for the BIOS)  One way around this is to put the OEM fan (or fan that does work with the BIOS) on the 4 pin side and let the motherboard see it at startup and then put the other fan on the 3 pin side.  The downside of this is that you won't see the RPM of the fan on the 3 pin side on any fan software.  Not a big deal with two identical fans but can be a problem with two fans that are not the same if that is important to you.

So on the G5 put the OEM fan on the 4 pin leg, the Noctua (or Arctic fan) on the 3 pin leg.   The motherboard will see the OEM fan and not throw the error, and the other fan will work fine.  

You can also use a fan hub to get around this, put the OEM fan into the plug that the motherboard can see, plug any other 3 pin or 4 pin fans into the other headers.  3 pin fans run at 100%, 4 pin fans are PWM from the motherboard.

The only thing you have to watch is the combined amperage of the fans on a Y adapter to a single header.  The Noctua fans are low amperage and should be fine to put it on the Y adapter with the OEM fan.


@TJanes  wrote:

The Noctua NH-U9S works great on this model.  No need to insert back plate.  Just buy some M3x14mm screws with washers to match and screw them in directly.  


Nice find on that NH-U9S cooler!   Good work!

Should be quieter than the TX3 and temps should be better as well, room for the second fan?

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