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August 18th, 2018 06:00

XPS 8930, GPU and CPU Liquid Cooler, PSU, Case Swap, Upgrade

Computer:  Dell XPS 8930

CPU:  i7 8700

CPU Cooler:  UPGRADE: Corsair H60 (2018 Model) Hydro Series AIO Liquid CPU Cooler

Graphic card manufacturer / model number:  UPGRADE: Liquid cooled MSI GeForce GTX 1080 SEA HAWK X 8GB 256-Bit  GDDR5X  PCI Express 3.0 x16  ATX Video Card  

Bios:  1.0.12

Operating System:  Windows 10 Home  v.1803

Power supply:  UPGRADE: Seasonic Focus Plus Gold, SSR-850FX, 850W Compact  Modular Power Supply

Monitor:  Samsung S34E790C - 34-Inch Curved WQHD (3440 x 1440) LED Monitor using Displayport.   









Edit: 06/06/19

Case fan upgrades here
PSU upgrades here
Non-Dell GPU upgrades here




Phanteks case swap summary here
Case swap rather than case mod for more cooling options here and here and here
Motherboard connections for case swap here
Full liquid cooling with waterblock here

 

0.jpg2.jpg3.jpg4.jpgIMG_5575.jpg
IMG_5587.jpg

Tests slim 15mm fans with HWInfo.

Idle CPU Temps 32C. 
Idle fan speeds intake 450-500 RPM
CPU FAN and TOP FAN = motherboard headers 

***Prime 95 v2.66 CPU Torture Test, Small FFT, 12 cycles.  60 minutes:    

CPU temps 66-70C.  Max temp 75C (boost)
Clock speeds 3492 mHz (~10% overclock @ 65W TDP), max 4490 mHz
Voltage stable at 1.022, max was 1.3



Upper Intake Fan (CPU FAN) CPU cooler max RPM 1078
Lower Intake fan (TOP FAN) GPU cooler max RPM 1019
Upper exhaust fan fixed 1500 RPM. 

Prime 95. initial boost of CPU 100% load at 4490 mHz at 110 W / 1.3v.  Then tests at stable ~10% overclock 3492-3589 mHz at ~65W at 1.022 volts, temps 66-70C.

***3d Mark Fire Strike Test for system 1080P, ~ 7min.:

CPU Temps: Max 75C
Clock speeds max 4388 mHz
Voltage max was 1.31

Upper Intake Fan (CPU FAN) CPU cooler max RPM 906
Lower Intake fan (TOP FAN) GPU cooler max RPM 869 
Upper exhaust fan fixed 1500 RPM. 

GPU Temps: Max 79C
GPU Fan speed, 1100 RPM idle, max RPM 2822
GPU Clock max 1961 mHz

So far, CPU temps okay.  But GPU temps high, will check bezel airflow.....

***3d Mark Fire Strike Test 1080P, ~ 7min
(front bezel off to test airflow restriction)

CPU Temps: Max 72C 
Clock speeds max 4388 mHz.
Voltage max 1.31

Upper Intake Fan (CPU FAN) CPU cooler max RPM 853
Lower Intake fan (TOP FAN) GPU cooler max RPM 1183
Upper exhaust fan fixed 1500 RPM. 

GPU Temps: Max 72C
GPU Fan speed, 1100 RPM idle, max RPM 2611
GPU Clock max at 1965  mHz

Changes with front bezel off:

CPU temps dropped by 3C 
GPU temps dropped by 8-10C 

CPU temps acceptable through bezel.  GPU airflow through bezel needs tweaking!

==========
The install:

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Tasks for upgrade in new XPS 8930: 
1) Install Corsair H60 (2018 Model) Hydro Series AIO Liquid CPU Cooler 
2) Install lower front intake fan/radiator with liquid cooled MSI Sea Hawk GTX 1080 HYBRID GPU
3) Upgrade PSU to Seasonic Focus Plus Gold, 850W Compact Power Supply

I need to accomplish this keeping in mind the following:
-Run the Corsair CPU cooler pump at constant 100% speed
-Requires fans connected to both 4 pin fan headers (CPU FAN) and (TOP FAN) to avoid startup error.  

==========
Installing Corsair Liquid CPU Cooler:
New 2018 Corsair Hydro Series H60 has 157 x 120 x 27mm radiator and SP120 PWM fan.  Pump has rotating barbs for hose placement to avoid the swinging PSU.  Pump connects to a PSU SATA cable for 100% power and the radiator PWM fan to the CPU FAN motherboard 4 pin header.  Optional tach cable to monitor pump speed and provide a signal to the fan header to prevent startup errors.  Fan specs: SP120 PWM, 1700 RPM, 28.3 dBA, 57.2CFM.

Slim fan for tight location: Noctua NF-A12x15 PWM, 1850 RPM  23.9 dBA  55.44 CFM / 1400 RPM 16.8 dBA  41.67 CFM

The 3 pin version is a good option at fixed speed to noise tolerance for constant airflow.

Review below posted 60C temps with i7 8700K CPU  30 min stress test at stock clocks.

 image.png

https://proclockers.com/reviews/cooling/corsair-hydro-series-h60-120mm-liquid-cooler-review

Nice installation guide here:
https://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/corsair-h60-review.html

The XPS 8930 chassis is similar to the Alienware R5/R6/R7, but the Alienware allows for CPU liquid cooling by having an opening to mount the fan/radiator through the top of the chassis, an installation bracket, and a top cover to house the unit.   

With no such space in the XPS 8930, I saw two possible locations a liquid cooler could be installed:  Upper exhaust and front intake.

1) Tried the upper exhaust position first without success with the radiator in the top exhaust fan location. The problem is that the rigid hose fittings protrude into the case 20mm.  The PSU bracket is not able to close. 

I also tried the radiator upside down with the hoses above the motherboard.  But with the radiator lined up with the top exhaust opening, a CPU power connector, capacitor and fan header block the area at the hose fittings. 

2) Next the front upper intake position at the hard drive location. With intake cooling, cool air enters the radiator but warm air exits into the case.  Should not be a problem if CPU temps are ok.

I found that the radiator can install with hoses up or down.  With the radiator upside down, the hoses can spread on either side of the motherboard ATX connector.  

Picture bottom install location:

PSU B3.jpg

Flipping the radiator upright, the swinging PSU bracket negates any liquid cooling in that location with the hoses up as the bracket cross bar crushes the hoses when lowered. 

Radiator up.jpg

However, I found that by removing the cross bar off the bracket and a small corner off the bracket support leg it would work.    

So I chose having the hoses up as the installation path.

1)  Flatten the wire holders in that location.

IMG_5408.jpg

2)  Remove the two support legs and the swinging PSU bracket by removing screws at the leg supports and a few at the rear. 

3) Used dremel reinforced cutting wheel to do about 5 minutes worth of cutting, then deburring the cut edges.

Picture dremel cuts. (Additional recommended cut to use 25mm fan here)

 image.png

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4)  Then placed the radiator up with the hoses at the front of the chassis. The bottom of the radiator fits between the two screws that hold down the supports of the PSU bracket.

5) Attach the 15mm fan with the model label showing for pull orientation and use 4 - 1” or 1 ¼” 6-32 machine screws to attach the radiator.  NOTE:  The 6-32 screws used for the radiator have a different thread than the 6-32 hex head screws being used in the case.  Big box stores have these screws.

Pic of screws

 image.png

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6)  Carefully mark the location of the holes in the radiator and drill four holes to mount the radiator to the front of the chassis. 

How I did this was place the radiator, then use tape on the front of the chassis to mark the sides of the radiator position.

Then put another piece of blue tape across the front of the radiator at the middle of the top holes. 

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image.png

With the radiator in position inside the chassis and the sides lined up with the tape, look through the rear grill at the blue tape and mark the height of that tape on the front chassis.  Marks represent the height of the radiator holes. 

Mark the height of the holes with another piece of tape across the front of the chassis.

image.png

You now have the height of the top holes.

image.png

7) Place a fan on the chassis between the two pieces of tape at the sides and line the two top holes with the radiator mark.  Mark all four holes .  Again tape off the case well to make sure you don’t get metal filings anywhere. 

Mount the radiator with fan to the chassis using ¾” 6-32 machine screws.  

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9) Installing the pump head:

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Clean CPU with alcohol.  You see the 4 mounting holes here

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Using th 4 double sided pins, put the lower pins into the mounting holes.  No modifications needed, the unit is set up for the Dell motherboard LGA1151 CPU socket.  Mount the cooler pump by placing the corner attachment brackets on the upper pins and tighten the thumb screws.  You can’t overtighten these, they just won’t turn any further when tight. 

 image.png

10) Connect radiator fan to the 4 pin CPU FAN header. 

11) Attach pump SATA power to the PSU. 

12) With no cross bracket on the PSU swinging bracket, there is room for the pump hoses to flex under the PSU.  There is a smooth rounded edge where the bracket contacts the hoses when closed.  As an additional precaution install braid wrap on the upper part of the hose for protection at that point.

Done!

Picture again from top, note no bar on the PSU bracket and the edge of the lower part of the PSU bracket that will contact the hoses when down.

image.png

==========

Installing MSI GTX 1080 Hybrid GPU:  The 151mm high radiator is installed in a sideways position with the hoses in front.  The GPU is 10.5” long leaving little room for both fan and radiator at the lower intake position.

With little space to put a fan on the radiator inside the case, the slim 15mm fan was mounted in front of the chassis and under the front bezel.  The front bezel is over 20 mm deep so the fan is able to still pull air from the bezel front side vents.

Picture front bezel

 image.png

1) The only problem encountered was a large raised hole in the middle of the front of the chassis which interfered with fan placement.  Keep turning the fan to the position centered to the radiator where the fan frame doesn't hit that large bump. 

2)  Check that the side of the radiator is clear of the swinging arm of the PSU bracket.   Important!.

3)  Drill 4 holes, attach the fan to radiator using 4- 1 ¼” 6-32 machine screws. 

 image.png

I also used a10mm foam compressible Phoyba radiator gasket on the radiator due to the 1" wide flange at the rear of the front chassis.

Pesky.JPG

It supports the Alienware R5/6/7 front intake fan bracket that snaps in at this location.  That piece of metal prevents the radiator from sitting flush.  The gasket took up that space.  It has adhesive on one side to attach to the radiator.  

IMG_5612.jpg

Note: In the picture of the front bezel a large plastic hollow pin sticks up that would hit the fan in that location.  Trim with the dremel cutting wheel.

 image.png

Picture front install, note no bar on the PSU swinging bracket.

 image.png

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4) Connect the slim fan on the AIO radiator to the 4 pin header (TOP FAN).   (Noctua NF-A12x15 FLX  1850 RPM  23.9 dBA  55.44 CFM / 1400 RPM 16.8 dBA  41.67 CFM)

Notes

Protect the radiator fins with a piece of cardboard taking the GPU in/out.  They are bent easily by the corner of the GPU.

 

Edit 9/18/18  GPU temps resolved here: (must read prior to installing, grillwork is removed)

Edit 02/23/19  Recommended cuts to use 25mm fan on CPU radiator here and here

Edit 03/15/19  Fixed speed radiator fan CPU temps 55°C range here

 

**This thread edited for accuracy, add'l pics and current information.

 

 

2.2K Posts

October 12th, 2020 22:00

5 Practitioner

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274.2K Posts

October 12th, 2020 23:00

@GTS81    Time to buy some white paint eh?

 

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2.2K Posts

October 12th, 2020 23:00

I totally forgot about that. Nvm, you've butchered your XPS8930 to the point you should just focus on the Area 51.

5 Practitioner

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274.2K Posts

October 12th, 2020 23:00

@GTS81    you've butchered your XPS8930 to the point you should just focus on the Area 51.

I have a new processor for the R5 that should be delivered tomorrow. I have never swapped out a CPU, so I will be looking for some tips/advice/warnings over in the BIG thread.

798 Posts

October 16th, 2020 20:00

@Anonymous 

Little late....So how did the CPU swap out go?   Nervewracking?

The ones I have done were easy.....the first time I did it, it was like.....:"is that all there it too it?"

Typically it's pull the level back and lift the CPU, reverse the procedure for the install....just watch for the flat corner of pins on the socket, it matches up to the flat corner on the CPU,  only one way it can fit it..   If it doesn't literally fall into position then it's wrong.  I also think there is a mark on the corner of the processor that matches to a mark on the motherboard.

kind of hard to mess up....but then if you are totally mashed and manage to put the CPU In misaligned and push down........

 

BTW, why would anyone put their post as a solution on this thread which is meant to be purely informative?  I had to remove the solution checkmark.......

5 Practitioner

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274.2K Posts

October 16th, 2020 21:00

@HanoverB    The ones I have done were easy.....the first time I did it, it was like.....:"is that all there it too it?"

That is good to know.  I suspected as much, but having never done it, just wanted to know if there were any particular tricks or troubles.  Thank you for the explanation. I have not done the swap yet . . . still working on the other build. This new Area 51 will be a much easier mod, but of course, I have to do a custom loop     

 

IMG_5340.JPG

 

2.2K Posts

October 16th, 2020 23:00

@HanoverB :

kind of hard to mess up....but then if you are totally mashed and manage to put the CPU In misaligned and push down........

More chances of messing up with AMD AM4 socket. The push-down lever doesn't do much to hold the CPU in place and many Reddit (buildapc/ pcmr subs) users have shown pictures of them yanking out the CPU while removing the air cooler heatsink because the thermal paste acts somewhat like glue.

BTW, why would anyone put their post as a solution on this thread which is meant to be purely informative?  I had to remove the solution checkmark.......

Hah, now I remember. I tried to unmark it for you but couldn't and then before I could flag it to you, I had to run off to do something else. Good thing that you've done so.

@Anonymous :

I now join you in "build visualization meditation".

798 Posts

October 17th, 2020 15:00

@GTS81 

Thanks buddy!

 

@Anonymous 

That A51 looks like a fun project and will follow it on the mad modders thread.

798 Posts

January 23rd, 2021 10:00

@GROOTPILOT did a nice install using the Asetek 645LT AIO.   Nice CPU cooler that replaced the 545LT that I used in the older XPS machines.  It comes with the 92mm 15mm thin fan. Has rotating barbs at the pump and at the radiator so fits great under the PSU bracket.   Pump power is 100% so should be connected to the PSU directly using a SATA to fan adapter and the fan is PWM so can be connected to the CPU fan header as you typically want the motherboard to control the fan speed.   Looks like he did have to cut the crossbar but other than that looks like an easy install and a nice alternative to the Corsair H60 cooler.  Good work.

 

From @GROOTPILOT 

20210122_015423.jpg

5 Practitioner

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274.2K Posts

January 23rd, 2021 10:00

@HanoverB    Has rotating barbs at the pump and at the radiator so fits great under the PSU bracket.

I am wondering if the pump connections interfere with the VRM heatsink, which is mysteriously missing  

798 Posts

January 23rd, 2021 11:00

@GROOTPILOT 

Which LED fan are you using at the top exhaust?  I have always liked how the LED fan looked as it lights up the upper opening of the case.  Little bling that looks nice.

 

IMG_5587.jpg

 

I did install a white Corsair SP120 LED fan (MSI Seahawk fan) when trying different things and I liked the way it looked. It didn't throw a startup error but it was just a little noisy up there.

798 Posts

January 23rd, 2021 11:00

Good thinking with going 100% on the fans on the cooler.  As long as those fans are quiet enough temps will be better.  I am getting temps in the low 50s with the fans fixed speed on the radiator versus letting the conservative motherboard curves control the fans.  Temps were okay with the fans on the CPU fan header but found to be much better at fixed speeds.  

Your connections are

-Fans to PSU

-3 pin pump power to CPU fan header to get 100% power and not get the startup error.

Correct?

January 23rd, 2021 11:00

Correct, crossbar does need to be cut and some accurate holes drilled to mount a 92 mm fan. Also recommend removing some of the metal casing with a dremel to get a little more airflow.

There is juuuust enough clearance to have a "pull" noctua slim 92mm under the 90 degree hose fittings and not push too much on the black/blue USB inputs.

Radiator back is mounted direct to slightly modified case, with an additional Noctua slim 92 on the exterior in a "push" configuration. The slim 92mm Noctuas are truly silent at full speed; both are plugged directly into Sata power.

Handled the 8700 non-k flawlessly; peak Prime95 temps never exceeded 70c and gaming was 55-60c.

Upgraded to 8086k; handles it adequately. Peak temps in the low 70s gaming with occasional low 80s in Prime95. 

20210122_015423.jpg

798 Posts

January 23rd, 2021 12:00

@Anonymous wrote:

I am wondering if the pump connections interfere with the VRM heatsink, which is mysteriously missing  

Pumphead mounts look like they stay within that square, but with that pump rotated in that position the location of the hose barbs might be an issue with the non-existent VRM cooler left of the CPU.  Good eye. 

Always wondered why those machines that came with the -K CPU's didn't have that metal VRM heatsinks left and above the CPU.  Mounting points are there and look just like on the Alienware motherboards. I think those heatsinks are on all the Alienware Rx series......so why not the XPS models?

Guess it's the same reason why they eventually went with the 92mm bracket/fan in the upper exhaust position.     They likely know that no one in their right mind would OC the stock machine anyway with the heat issues...

5 Practitioner

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274.2K Posts

January 23rd, 2021 14:00

@HanoverB    Always wondered why those machines that came with the -K CPU's didn't have that metal VRM heatsinks left and above the CPU.

The "K" CPUs did come with the VRM heatsink on the left side of the CPU . . . with a notch for the blower style fan. The "mounting holes" above the CPU are not threaded, so you would have to remove the motherboard and run bolts from the back side to mount a VRM heatsink.

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