Aurora R8, Molex for 850w PSU?

This is exactly i am looking for; thank you very much! Unfortunately dell is OOS with a long wait so i am going to use an adapter till dell has item back in stock.

jb

U can grab the part# off one of your SATA cables & see if in stock, or try G2GX9 (search term = Alienware Aurora cable) & put a Sata-to-Molex adapter on it

@Cass-Ole    re-wire it (pin removal tool + voltmeter required / suggested)

I am going to be using the XSPC temperature display pictured below. It is powered with 4-pin Molex, with a second 4-pin Molex piggy-back. It appears that the display is only using two wires for power, the 5V and ground, based on your illustration. The other two wires seem to serve no purpose at all. Since I will be using four of these displays, that will leave me with eight Molex connectors, which is a lot of extra bulk in my circumstance. The questions:

• is the display really only using two of the wires for power?
• if so, is there some 2-pin wire connector I could use to replace the 4-pin Molex connectors and save a lot of space?

I am not concerned with the temperature sensor wire, just the power source. Keep in mind I have no clue what I am doing (electrically speaking). 

I can see the photo now, similar on uTube <-- is this close enuff? That display is indeed low-voltage, driven by just two wires jumped into 5v/ground, it's a 5volt display ...

Plan A = buy new terminals: if you're using a Seasonic, & plan to plug one (or two) Molex 4pin cable(s) with multiple x3 - x4 female heads per cable, new from pouch, into PSU for use in project, then back all the terminals out & you could, say, forcefully 'snap' (jiggle back n forth) or cut the temp. display wires (5v/ground) off of the old terminal, & crimp your own terminals then click them into your empty male connect, ready for use ...

Tip: if it's a 4-headed Molex Seasonic cable, then buy x10 terminals & proceed as normal. If it's a 3-headed Molex Seasonic cable, u could double up the wires (splicing two wires into one terminal) on one of them then do the other two as normal (where x1 head would power dual-displays, the other 2 heads each power a display)

Plan B = free = what I would do here: back terminals out & snap / cut off their Molex 5v/ground wires & discard, then push terminals back into connector ready for use … but … if the Molex wires do not come off the terminal clean, I would

1) prise open the outer insulation crimp

2) use precision screwdriver & 'break open' the inner factory wire crimp - pull out Molex wire - reposition temp display wire into terminal & recrimp it (needle-nose pliers could also force-crimp it), then reinsert into connector ready for use, understand? 

Plan A/B, either way will give you simply two temp display wires, by themselves, each wearing molex male terminals ready for use, reinsertion back into Molex male connect

Honestly, I'd forcefully break (pull/jiggle/tug/rotate/snap) the 5v/ground Molex wires out of the Molex connector as is … if it came out clean, then good, if not & came out a lil' messy, then I would back terminal out & repair etc, make sense? Discard the Molex wire while keeping the temp display wire on the terminal, by any means necessary

Plan C = free = plug in as many displays as you can to your PSU cable's Molex, & use the piggybacks to drive the rest, where cable ties may reduce clutter (= & unused 12v / ground wire / terminals can be backed out

While waiting for @Anonymous to reply or picture to post, here's what I found.

The V3 is SATA powered while the V2 is Molex 4-pin.

https://www.frozencpu.com/products/19753/tmp-73/XSPC_LCD_Temperature_Sensor_V2_-_Blue_Backlight_w_G14_Sensor_Plug.html#blank

The final connection going into the display unit is exactly what he wants, I believe. Just 2 wires nicely sleeved together. However, there's this monstrosity of a Molex connector that it taps off from, and with XSPC being so kind, they added yet another 4 wires to another connector for daisy chaining. 

@Cass-Ole   if you're using a Seasonic

Yes, Seasonic Focus Series 850 watt PSU. I bought a custom sleeved cable set from SoloSleeving that includes a PSU to 4-pin Molex cable with one female head. I was planning to use the power distribution gizmo pictured below.

I have re-wired several motorcycles, so I am a little bit familiar with the pin removal and terminal crimping. This is the part where I am getting lost:

cut the temp. display wires (5v/ground) off of the old terminal, & crimp your own terminals then click them into your empty male connect, ready for use 

What is the "empty male connect"? Is that a new 2-pin wire connector, or the 4-pin Molex connector, or ??

I really appreciate the help. I will need to read through your information several more times to better understand. At a minimum, if I use the gizmo below, I think I can hack off all of the piggy-back Molex connectors.

Thanks again!

EDIT: this would be a preferable power distribution, if it would work

"What is the 'empty male connect'? Is that a new 2-pin wire connector, or the 4-pin Molex connector, or ??" --> It's the 4pin Molex, where after you back all the terminals out it is 'empty'

When these temp displays arrive, their 5v/ground jump into a Molex male w/ a female piggyback per your original photo. Fine. In the photo above, the end-state of Plan A/B discussed how to mod until the temp display 5v/ground are the only two wires left inside the male connector, ready for use, per my photo. The advice is to remove all remnants of 'unwanted molex wire-terminals-females' while keeping the male ... in fact, with a little work u could jump / splice two displays together inside that one male connector seen above

We'll nevermind the fact my assumption was your PSU cable(s) had 3-4 heads on it, for if it has x1 head, then that head-multiplier gizmo adaptor looks like a good idea, where each of your x4 displays can still look like the photo above after a mod, & plug into gizmo

Since XSPC is sending male connectors, you can re-use them of course, which is the advice I gave + today's end-state photo. To get that male connector they'll send ready, u back out the unwanted 12v/ground & attack the remaining two wires - or - back all four terminals out (so male connector is now empty), discard 12v/ground & work on 5v/ground terminals (remove all unwanted molex pieces etc)

While it is my experience that when a thin gauge wire jumps in with a thick gauge - & u aggressively try to snap (shake back n forth / rotate til it breaks etc) the unwanted thick gauge off (attack the wire) - the tendency is that the thin gauge will also break or become compromised, not always or I wouldnt suggest attacking it / breaking/snapping etc ... but if so ... as stated, open the crimps back up & repair it / recrimp it (​cut-break old terminal off, strip wire-end bare & crimp into new terminal etc, where I also stated that if u have new terminals (or even wish to re-use the old one), you could jump wires together such that one male connector could power x2 displays

a power distribution hub is also on the table, & u feel u want to mod a different type of 2pin (3pin 4pin) connector + new terminal type onto the displays, sure you can, just look for a source for correct new terminals-connectors. From there, since your Seasonic Molex cable can not power that hub without an adaptor, u might buy an empty male molex + male terminals, so u can hand-make / adapt your new 2pin onto the end so it can power the distribution block (make a molex-to-2pin adapter which allows Seasonic molex cable to power that 2pin hub); in that scenario, you buy male molex + male terminals, + as many 2pin connex/terminals as needed which looks like 5 sets (x4 for displays + 1 for adaptor)

Something like a fan hub could work (3pin & 4pin types shown)

• buy empty fan connectors + terminals
• crimp them onto your display wires for plug-in

*chances are, the fan hub will be set up to use 12v & the 5v line will be 'dead' on the PCB

• that can be tested 1st, by backing out the 12v molex terminal, see if displays now work
• if they don't, back the 5v out & insert it into 12v slot, where they should then work
• if they do, you can then safely house your 12v terminal into an empty female you would buy, or rob it from the discarded molex parts that were part of the temp displays you'd removed from earlier

Under a general search of 'fan hub', here & here either can be modded to grab 5v power from your Seasonic Molex, while your temp displays get new fan connex-terminals in order to plug in, where fan hub or power block ideas & details we might go over in a private message if u like (=

Though potentially smaller than the hub u posted a photo of, whether yes or no, we might note that the one above may have thin gauge wire under that sleeve, since it's just for fans. A spec sheet w/data on how many amps it can support would be nice, but, if for instance the wire gauge under that sleeve is 22awg I might keep it; if it's 24 26 28 then I'd be inclined to swap in two thicker 20awg instead (5v / Grd), to help power x4 displays. It'd help to know the display's wire gauges 1st. Where I'd put 1ft-2ft of 20awg wire on my list along with fan connectors-terminals + molex terminals in order to mod that particular hub above. Buying small batches of connex-terminals-wire-sleeve-heatshrink etc will never break the bank ... 

edit: photo, two displays off of one molex male

@Cass-Ole    you can then safely house your 12v terminal into an empty female

Much appreciated!! Still waiting for photos to be mod approved. I will need to read through several more times. Really great information!

SATA to Molex is easy.

https://www.amazon.com/C2G-10149-15-Pin-Serial-Female/dp/B003AI272I/

https://www.amazon.com/12in-Molex-Power-Cable-Adapter/dp/B00GK8SYCW/

@Cass-Ole The pinout you have mentioned :

X | 5v (red) | 12v (blu)

Grd (blk) | X | Grd (blk)

Is this for a six-pin PCI power out from a stock AlienWare 850W power supply? I am planning on powering an Eiswand 360 external radiator/pump from one of these ports. What is the maximum power I can draw  from one of these ports? Eiswand mentions 24W which I think is the maximum power consumption by the unit. 

Hi, this post was centered around the white SATA/Molex (peripheral) connectors R10 11 12, not PCI-E (GRFX/VGA/VideoCard) connex R1-R6

Watts = VoltsxAmps, these are 12V DC PSUs, so 24watts = 12V x 2Amps, yes u can run 2Amps through the 4pin Molex (Peripheral) & probably up to 5amps/60watts  (Sata up to 4.5Amps … try google for instance)

Area-51 color (volts/grounds/wires) chart is below, Aurora cable colors are similar

*PCI-E GRFX cables are rated to 75watts 6pin, 150watts 8pin

30 watts from 12v and 10 watts from 5v which is 40W.

thats why 75W to 6 pin PCI-E from molex needs 2 molex or sata connections.

https://www.officedepot.com/a/products/776133/C2G-10in-One-6-pin-PCI

molex says power or signal interconnect system rated up to 5.0A per connector with standard brass terminals. thats 12v @ 2.5 A and 5v @ 2A for UL safety rating.