Dell absolutely does not use "standard" pinouts and they do not document them.

Can standard 10-1 USB2.0 front panel cable plug directly into ASUS motherboard 20-8 panel pin block to control power on/off? ASUS PWR and ground pins seem to be 11,13. USB2.0 power switch + and - pins seem to be 8,6. Is pin spacing the same?

Here's a copy/paste of an old post ALX-Files: Area 51 R1 Motherboard Swap Asus 4770k  

Below are older & newer Asus headers, 10x10 20pin (double row). The newer versions after Z170 have the classic MSI JFP1 pinout, thus a 5x5 Dupont connector (equipped with 51 R1) can suffice as a plug & play pinout needing no mod, at least for Asus & MSI board headers. Older Asus boards before that have a 10x10 but a different pinout & require some of the wires to go into different slots, & u either use a pair of 5x5's, get a solid (dual-row) 10x10, or get a pair of single-row 10pins

Other option are 1pin & 2pin designs, seen later
Above bottom Z170 = plug & play with JFP1. Above top, Z87 10x10, PWR_LED = 2/6, PWR_SW = 11/13, HDD ;ED = same 1/3; therefore you have to mod your original 5x5 as discussed above

Above, I transferred in a solid 10x10, rewired my Z87 front panel connector for Pwr Sw +/-, HDD Led +/-, Pwr LED +/-. You can re-use the 5x5 you have in your case right now & find / buy another 5x5 (if it's a USB 5x5 then poke a hole in it, discussed later)... or you can track down a Dupont 10x10 20pin like I did

On an Asus board, a 10x10 is the same as a pair of 5x5 USB-types which plug-in side-by-side

Use JFP1 diagram to identify your current wires/colors/polarity, and then insert them into your 5x5 pair (or 10x10) correctly, in the correct slots relative to new mthrbrd front panel header diagram.  In the post below, we discuss the old mthrbrd front panel using photos; read over it for help & clues: Area 51 ALX restoration 

Above, far left is a true front panel 5x5 with the block-off slot = 10. If you can not find one of these, u can try a USB 5x5 if u poke a hole in 2 with a needle 

Above, new Asus front panel harness for Area-51 R2 using a solid dual-row 10x10 & 5x5 USB-type (for FIO board)

Above, typical MthrBrd Front Panel connex using Industry Standard 2pin / 1pin connex, labeled pwr on switch / hdd led / pwr on led ... u can source these online . Use JFP1 to ID wires-colors-polarity, back them out of your 5x5 & transfer to 1p/2p then plug into Asus. If the spacing on Asus is a triple (like Z87 2/6), either buy a 3pin or use a pair of 1pins

The Z87/Z170 diagrams are from online mthrbrd owner's manuals > 'internal connectors' section. If your Asus is different than what I posted, post your diagram here. If u need help beyond what I said here, ask

To summarize:

Can standard 10-1 USB2.0 front panel cable plug directly into ASUS motherboard 20-8 panel pin block to control power on/off? My terminology resorts to 5x5 or 10x10. The answer is yes, where Z170 & newer is plug & play, Z87-type needs a mod

ASUS PWR and ground pins seem to be 11,13 > I see Pwr_Switch as 11/13 on Z87, I see Pwr_Switch as 6/8 on Z170

USB2.0 power switch + and - pins seem to be 8,6. Is pin spacing the same? 'USB2.0 power switch' isnt a term I use, since we don't use USB 5x5 connex typically, we use the front panel-style 5x5 instead (in a perfect world). If we use a USB 5x5 it's because we poked a hole (through the block-off) in it so it will fit

However, 8/6 doesn't correspond on Z87. That matters because the Z170 is plug & play w/R1. Not sure what the issue is, since if u have the Z170-type, just plug in to it = no issue to solve

Excellent explanation in great details.  Thanks a lot.

I was contemplating whether to acquire an ASUS Rampage III formula w i7-980 and 989X cpu cooler for $50 from a local user, or on line green purple Dell X58 w NB heatsink and no cpu cooler bidding at 60.  From one of your old posting I remember you said the OEM boards made by MSI for Dell are low budget (low end mass produced) and have severely gimped BIOS. So the desire to restore w OEM MSI board is diminished except for a wish to see alien head logo on BIOS splash screen.  The local ASUS deal sounds good, and it is ATX format which should fit A51 R1 case.  (I do not wish to spend $80-160+ on i7-980X/990X since Ryzen 5 3600 is only $180+).  But the hassle of rewiring 5x5 to 10x10 is a turn off for me.  I was thinking of keeping the original 5x5 in R1 case (since I could use it plug n play for non ASUS or future Z### ASUS boards). So I have absolutely no plan to cut off the 5x5 to free the wires.  Good to know 10x10=two 5x5 in pin block.  If I plan to keep alien head LED active on front panel (assume that is the PWR LED), then yes absolutely need to rewrite 4 pins (PWR switch and PWR LED).  If I want to keep HDD LED, 6 wires (btw, the very small white HDD LED on A51 R1 has a mysterious pattern, like tiny alien fingers or fork tapping three bar keyboard?  not sure what that is supposed to mean).  Seeing the extent of adding numerous wires,  I feel loss of elegant cable mgmt and thus low motivation (but A51 already has so many wires hidden in its belly).

The key question for me is whether I should stay on X58 chipset in this case but improve to some extent (better cpu cooler, higher end board, Dell vs aftermarket BIOS splash screen).  To me the 10 year old X58 land still has some ample space to play around w i7 and Xeon compared to the much more expensive and severely limited cpu choice in X79, X99, or X299 lands (X79 and X99 are dead end now?).  If I acquire the Rampage III, this is what I might do to rewire:

2 pin male to 2 pin female jumper DuPont wire.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/16pcs-30cm-2pin-Male-to-2pin-Female-Jumper-wire-Dupont-cable-for-your-project-/271021058251?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10

The pins & connectors are designed so nothing needs to be 'cut off' …

That pic of the Lunar Shadow case w/the new 2pins on it?, the terminals were backed out of the FP 5x5 & new 2pins transferred on in minutes … don't cut anything, lol

I posted pics of 5x5 & 10x10 … when pin terminal is inside, u take a needle > lift the plastic tab stopper up & back the pin terminal out > then change it to new slot til it cliks in place

And yes, per your link, you can get male-pronged adaptors, I have a set here; there's a wealth of items we could all buy & use, I can't post every idea. Generally the adaptor's used as an extension if your wiring cant reach new FP header as happens in the R2 case. While they're handy to have, u can accomplish same thing by backing terminals out of the 5x5 if needed then transfer into new slots or new 5x5's/10x10's

Manual section 2.8.4 Internal Connex

Below, I either have (or buy) another 5x5, buy some 1/2/3pins, or a 10x10 (x1 dual-row or a pair of single row). If I go with a pair of 5x5's (by re-using the one inside my case, my FP 5x5), ok I back out pin 4 & move it over to slot 6 … I back out pins 1 & 3 & transfer them into a new 5x5, push into slots 11/13

An equally good plan is to buy a 2pin for the Pwr_Sw (from the assortment I linked to earlier, frozen cpu): I back out pins 6/8, transfer to new 2pin, plug that into 11/13 … next I back out pin4 & move to slot6 & re-use my 5x5, it's now ready to go, all u needed was a 2pin

The fact is, the terminals back out of the Dupont connectors & clik right back in, modding is easy once u have the diagram & the correct connector or adaptor/extension type there. In the end there's no one way to do it, there are options, it's just a rabbithole to go down to explain it all. Some people go to uTube to see how to wire for a new mthrbrd

google: motherboard front panel extension -or- motherboard internal extension … u have male-prong options in results (ex. Amazon Phobya Front Panel Extension Cables, 30cm, Black)

Last, Alienhead is driven by MIO, not from the PwrOn_LED

The Pwr_On LED is the silver on button, the white light u see when room is dark, & beneath it there's an HDD Activity LED w/platter or disks symbols (pancakes)

so helpful to talk to some one w a lot more experience than me.

i have an old Dell Vostro 200 slim tower case that has FP 5x5. some day will try to back out pin from that.

a few questions unrelated:

I see you had a modded left panel w clear side view.  wonder whether it is possible to get a thick black tempered glass plate w curved edges to match A51 left door, and have the hinge plate screwed on it.

I do not use high end gpu. current small gpu from XPS9100 does not require 6 pin.  can I turn off or turn to nil the PCI fan by default to cut down noise n dust?  In CC?

Is it better to have matched intake and exhaust fan cpm or have slightly higher positive pressure in case (intake tiny more than exhaust).  I see suggestions of 3x120 mm on top and 92 mm at back.  Seems to be a lot mismatch w single intake front PCI fan.  Some suggest reverse top fans to suck air in.  seems wrong as hot air rises.  Some say keep black plastic cover on top to prevent dust or create vacuum effect in case.  confused what is best.  my current top caddy is completely removed, black plastic detached from caddy too.

Is it better or worse to run A51 w left door open? Well my current cpu cooler from 9100 has top mounted fan and requires air intake from left side via fixed side air duct Dell P281K.  so left door has to be open.  There is option to change to 435MT Dell P041K, 5F5NM, or intel i7-980X cooler DBX-B w side fan, but prefer not to.

Is it easier to use AIO liquid cooler w fan mounted on back if there is 92 mm fan option. seems mounting liquid cooler on top using caddy is much more work.

The folks who work at Area-51 / Groom Lake call it DreamLand … I call these builds WetDreamLand ... pics I saw today

Acrylic door, take a Dremel to the hinge to flatten it out / remove the angles & it may be possible

... can I turn off or turn to nil the PCI fan by default to cut down noise n dust? In CC?
Yes, open CC > Thermals > PCI widget, use fixed % speed or build a custom curve (temp vs speed chart)(see uTube for making curve profile). For 0 RPM, unplug it from MIO if u wish

Is it better to have matched intake and exhaust fan cpm (cfm) or have slightly higher positive pressure in case (intake tiny more than exhaust)
Positive pressure is when more air exits case, negative pressure is when more sucks in. Negative pressure results in more dust in, positive should evacuate more dust out, in theory. I prefer slightly more air leaving case (positive), a relative gradient over 50.1% out vs in better suits me

I see suggestions of 3x120 mm on top and 92 mm at back. Seems to be a lot mismatch w single intake front PCI fan
The PSU fan is in a sense also a case exhaust fan. Now for the rabbithole ...

It's taken for granted I think, that a triple top fan scenario includes the stock liquid cooling in the mix. If you go back to 2009, become 1st person to take delivery, your setup is > liquid cooler w/a Rad-Fan blowing up & out, a block-off plate & no rear 92mil fan > Our #1 objective is to realize the best CPU Temps. Or is it GPU temps? Depends. If CPU, then Test A would be to find best CPU temp when Rad-Fan is blowing in/down or blowing out/up (blowing in/down should be best, right?). Next, add rear 92mm fan, it can blow in or blow out, depending on which way u have your rad-fan oriented I'd think. With a rear 92mm blowing in, maybe now the Rad-Fan should blow up & out, you'd have to test it

Here's where it gets sticky. If u next remove the block-off plate, the Rad-Fan -whether it blows up or down- may be the starting place from how or why u decide to orient a new 120mm fan-pair. They can both blow in, both blow down, or one up one down. From there, the radiator can go in one of three spots up there, right? Right. With all these new fans, now u find u want to test Rad-Fan the other way, maybe next u turn 92mm the other way. Now we have 16 ways to orient fans. Next maybe you decide you want to place the radiator in the middle of caddy & put 120s on either side of it, which way should they all blow, & what about rear 92mil & how it blows? Test & find out. From there, no two fans are alike (25mm 32mm 38mm, what CFM?, good static pressure or no?, 0.1A .75A 1A 1.5A?, fan controller or no? what speeds & when?) so who does what & why may depend on the model of fan(s) used ... or CPU type (920? 960? 980x? & whether it's overclocked or not ). Now we can't ever have a consensus on what is the best config, it's relative & may be subjective. What works for me may not work best for you

When I 1st started, I turned my Rad-Fan down/in, my top 120s blew out/up, rear 92 = out, & I called it a day. When I put in the 240mm cooler, two Rad-Fans blow down/in, 3rd 120 blows up/out. Why? Seems legit, & CPU stays cool, not time to fuss about it & sick of tinkering lest something get broke

This post is the 1st & last time I saw owners here try to make sense of what to do & why, but in the end what to do comes on a case-by-case basis … how to install 120mm tops fans Area 51 system

Further more, the more u tinker the more u find how delicate everything is & how accident prone things can get, so it's understandable no one has really messed with it all, it's a lot of work & u can't exactly 'try everything' in order to find your fan-config's sweet spot. So long as CPU doesn't overheat, most people settle 'on a config' because to change it is alot of work. Most give up & move on w/ 'I have fans in all spots so it's good enough' ... they may be right, lol. My 'CPU overheats' has never been spoken in here, except twice when their cooler pump failed, while GPU temp reductions were seen simply by adding more fans. How they orient best is a guessing game ...

For configs when no liquid cooling is used, if 92 rear & triple 120s up top are used, a person has to play with their fan configs & find a happy medium (I suspect two 120s up and one down over the CPU heatsink, but no time to explain the why of it). Do what u think's best, & so long as CPU stays cool you probably have a config that's good enough. The idea is yes, you have 25 theoretical ways to config fans but maybe only time to try 2-3ways before u get bored & all ways seem to be roughly equal ... in the end, I think most of us yank the block-off plate, install top 120s / rear 92mil & build a config that seems most logical, then invest in an electric mattress air pump & air-dust regularly & that should suffice

Again, Tai went w/ a massive heatsink & either will or won't add more fans. If he does, I suspect his CPU/GPU temps will drop regardless which way they go in. What way(s) are best, worst or same I can't say, only he can after trial & error. If he tosses in fans any old way & then walks away never to revisit the subject, so be it

Is it better or worse to run A51 w left door open? The CPU & GPU temps should dictate that. If either overheat when door closed, install more fans as above. If still overheats?, buy better fans. If PCI-E mid-fan is too loud, replace with quieter PWM fan. If still toasty in there, add fan or fans to the DVD bay area. If still overheats ... open door up, lol?

Is it easier to use AIO liquid cooler w fan mounted on back if there is 92 mm fan option. seems mounting liquid cooler on top using caddy is much more work
That may be a 92mil above. Asetek makes a 92mm AIO cooler (545LC & 645LT) but I can't prove it fits the mount-space nor seen someone try one out

The fact the caddy is tool-less & easily ejects makes install / removal (of stock alien cooler or any aftermarket type) not so bad. You bought what at times could turn into a $6000 ultra-tower gaming pc, be prepared to maintain it … I had to wrestle with four of these cases, u just have to wrestle w/ one (=

The best advice I ever gave here was to remind owners to work & behave around their Alien just like a sloth: work slow, move slow & be deliberate about every move u make so nothing gets broken or scratched, yadda yadda. Use towels & t-shirts to protect inside & out, & if u turn a 30minute project into a 60minute project & walk away w/out any damage then u prolly did it right 

Thanks for the good tips. Best tip at the end.  I already bent the hinges and chassis by rough handling.  lesson learned.

Regarding fan directions, much has to do w liquid radiator mounted on top that mandates fan blow in cold air to cool it.  IMHO mixed top 120 mm fan in and out is not neat.  my simple solution: I will not use radiator or liquid cooling.  I like the vent fins on top which are nicknamed “great dragon spine” by fans (Aurora fins aptly named little dragon spine).  These fins are more for gaming aesthetics than practical, but since they are vents, I would like to see hot air rise to top exiting through all of them, not 1/3 in 2/3 out.  I uninstalled the top fan caddy.  cleaned dust on fine mesh ceiling underneath the fins (prior blow in fan sucking dust). removed black plastic paper, so the dragon or moby dick has completely open breath holes on its back.  intend to install 92 mm fan at back (w dust filter) as the only intake fan, and shut off front PCI fan because my gpu has low TDP and hard to clean dust on front fan if kept on.  In addition to top vent, air also escapes passively through PCI slots, ODD bays, and other gaps.  
I read this article (https://www.silverstonetek.com/techtalk_cont.php?tid=wh_positive&area=en).  If I am not missing something, one rear 92 mm intake fan and no exhaust should keep a positive air pressure inside case and prevent dust from coming in through all other holes.  

Regarding clear side view, I really like the thick black tempered glass I saw, which feels more luxurious than thin plexiglass typically used.  It is at least 3-5 mm thick I think.  The left door outer shell is curved, but isn’t the inner metal rim a straight line rectangle to fit on case?  If so, I wonder where I can buy a precut tempered glass of the right size w polished edges, that I can just apply to open left side of case somehow.  I have no interest to use a cutting tool (sorry not a handy person).

Browsing Chiphell forum for 51/Aurora mods ~2years ago & using google-translate, I saw them referred to as Dragons. For some OCD reason I'd saved the Mandarin symbols they use, here's a copy/paste 外星人 大龙 (outer star people, big dragon)

Door skins are convex but the inner case (& four inner door 'braces') seems a flat plane. I live in a city so we have local glass & acrylic shops here. If you do as well, stop in w/ or w/ out case, call or email, see what they can do. Just a thought: a home-made template or starter project might consist of going to Walmart etc, buy an ~18x24 or 24x36 basic $8 poster frame w/ thin clear acrylic for temporary use or measuring etc

Per white dragon above, I'd contacted my local engraver to ask if they could duplicate the OEM Window7 login screen below (part of the oem wallpaper pack) for an 11x17 acrylic window, whose symbols mimic the interior etched PCI/battery shrouds. They said yes = $350 to do it, yikes  

Very good idea of starting w 24x18 acrylic.  I started looking at smoked acrylic sheets. $20 + shipping for 24x18x0.25.  extra cost to polish raw cut edges (w knife whorls).

A51 dimension:  23.4 x 10.9 x 25.8 inch.  do you think 24x18 will cover left side opening perfectly?

my panel currently has alien head stickers on each side.  not bad.  these are the only ones from original owner I did not remove.  If you want a bit design on your acrylic, consider cheap sticker option.

I read your write up on AW MIO with new motherboard.  I have a question: has anyone tried to edit new motherboard name in BIOS to be the same as stock alienware board and see if that breaks ice between non talking MIO and new board?  by report this trick had worked well in XPS 730 board upgrade.  however, it was acknowledged AW MIO is a more picky daughterboard.

I swing the door open & when the unpainted metal chassis frame aproximates a rectangle to be covered over, I measure the opening as something like 14x21. A person who knew how to cut acrylic could look for poster frames of that size & try a home-made door. If they consider the cheap poster frame as the test piece & liked the aproximate fit, maybe they order something nicer & if all went well, they measured correct & the pricier custom acrylic fits the space. Maybe someone else takes their case into an acrylic/glass shop & asks what can be done & at what price. To me, 24x36 or 18x24 are off-hand sizes I've seen posters come in. If a 14x21 is a real size u can buy then get one if u want to test the space. Otherwise, measure yours & contemplate / look into options. I personally think the hinge has to be cut before it could be used. If you ditch the hinge & go for some other way to mount a clear acrylic side panel, small magnets might work. I haven't considered this project & so short on ideas. Again, when I said 24x18 I meant as an over-sized project piece that may need cut down in order to test-fit with: if all went well you'd be able to use it after working on its final size, or, use it as a test-piece with which to narrow-down a correct-ish size to order from someone etc. Per MIO question, I haven't heard of anyone trying to do so, no