Area 51 R2 CPU cooler/radiator upgrade

Guess nobody knows.

Forum 'Community' search nets a few 80i archived / locked threads

Here's a photo link, GT and V2 are the same cooler 

There is no spare USB header, so you need a splitter hub >

Original alien cooler (K31VH) is entry-level 27mm wide (120x27), the Threadripper R3/R6 cooler is the same 48mm/49mm wide as GT/V2 (120x49); memory that is not too tall would be suggested. R3/R6 48mm wide uses a solo-38mm wide rad-fan, therefore your best bet would be a solo 25mm wide PWM fan with good static pressure (but not dual push-pull 25mils) or re-use your 38mil fan. Solo 25mil would help keep rad away from memory ...

You'd use the Intel socket 2011 type retainer provided in the new box (no backplate required), you can re-use the stock retainer in some or most instances if its an Asetek cooler. The Arctic cooler you linked to is or has the same Gen 5 pump as the threadripper alien cooler, same cooler, both made by Asetek (Corsair made by Asetek too)

Post your results, and buy from a source that accepts easy returns (Newegg/MicroCenter) 

This was my 49mm Asetek paired to a 25mil pwm fan

So I seen the thicker radiator in the thread ripper and if I got my hands on one, would it work without the usb problem? Or is this something that Alienware has added and not a problem in the r3 or r4 with the usb? Actually, after looking into it, it's the area 51 r6 with the thicker radiator and doubt I can find those anywhere as of yet.

Also , I read somewhere that the Arctic cooler doesn't use the USB. So, if that would be true then the Arctic cooler wouldn't have the problem like the Corsair I take it. As far as the push and pull with the arctic cooler. I have the low profile ram and it looks like it wouldn't be a issue.

The  R3   / R6 cooler part# is TFGHM and HR6V4, cost is prolly $215, chat with Dell Sales for availability

If it came with an AMD retention ring you'd swap on your 2011 ring

USB-based coolers, you either buy a hub or simply do not connect it (do not run the software), let CmndCntr do its thing as with the original cooler. But yes, the Arctic cooler isn't USB-based, so no issue there

Thanks for the response, the only other question I got is, the wire that runs from the Arctic CPU cooler itself, now can I replug it into the same spot on the motherboard as the Alienware CPU cooler? It looks like the plug is the same to me. I looked at the questions on Newegg and they say to pig tail all 3 wires to the CPU fan plug in, but that I'm sure won't work on the Alienware motherboard. That and a guy said not to do that because if it shorts out it will burn that plug in out, but in my case it seems I am gonna have to reuse the plug where the CPU cooler is anyways.

the K31VH aliencooler by Asetek is designed with the same 3 wire (ground power RPM)(housed in a 3+1 pwm connector) as the rest are, just plug new cooler into same fan/pump header you're plugged into now = get same result

Thanks again, I'll post back when I get everything, since I'm upgrading the CPU as well and just need to get everything and see how it goes.

Well  I got the Arctic liquid freezer installed. However  it seems the pump is not running and the push fan is not either. So, not sure what the problem is? 

Thanks again for the response, the directions say about daisy chaining all 3 wires together  including the CPU pump. So, I don't know if I should do that  but I only have the pull fan installed as of right now, which it seemed to be working ok, since it picked up rpms as the CPU got hotter since the pump does not seem to be working. I don't have much experience just so you know when doing upgrades to the PC hardware, I'm in the learning stage lol

The best I can say is that I offered a way to test the pump motor coming on, by holding the pump head in your hand after having plugged it into a working chassis fan header

For that matter, on a cool PC that's been sitting, you could plug it into the pump header (same place as original plugs in at), power up, you have a minute or less before CPU overheats but that is plenty of time to check if the pump turns on while you're holding the pump head in your hand (yes or no, works or doesn't, shut down PC after 15 seconds), if it wants to come on it will make an air bubbly sound or you'll feel a hum when u hold it and / or both

A pump that is bad or has no power, PC / CPU will quickly overheat in a minute or 2 or 3, while a pump motor that works (has power and turns on) but isn't fully seated (not installed correctly) the CPU will gradually overheat

You can daisy chain them as they instructed (I read the HARDOCP review) at least to test with, then go from there. I believe I'd order that molex-to-fan adapter in case u ever need to test pump motor operation using constant 12v on a PSU molex 4pin cable