Aurora R4, chassis fans question

On R4, VRM fan runs through SysFan1 header ... lower 'SouthBridge' fan through SysFan2 header

When stock alien cooler is installed, the black 7pin pump & SysFan headers in the top lighting strip are used, the CPUFan header up there isn't. Not sure why they included it up there, but it's live / works & probably is constant 12volts* (IIRC)

*I let someone borrow my Aurora so I can't test this to see -but- it MAY be that if you plug a 3pin fan into CPUFan header up top, it runs full speed constant 12volts at ALL times, but maybe you plug a 4pin PWM fan into it & it runs slow unless CPU temp increases & it would/will ramp up. I forget what that header does, whether a 3pin or 4pin PWM fan is installed ... to TEST ... unplug 4pin PWM radiator fan (SysFan header), plug it into CPUFan header, if it runs FULL SPEED at start-up then the CPUFan header is constant 12volts ... if it runs slow, then it has 'smart' control just as the SysFan header to the left of it does. Repeat that test w/a 3pin fan, see what happens ... if slow speed at start-up then it has 'smart' control, if it runs full speed then it's a 'dumb' header = 12v constant

Moving on, the motherboard CPUFan header is where the MIO board has a dedicated cable that plugs in there, where mthrbrd sends MIO the CPUFan speed signal ... MIO then relays a fan speed signal up to the top light strip & over to the radiator fan (SysFan header)

If you change to an air cooler, simply DISCONNECT the MIO mthrbrd fan cable & plug your Fan-Sink fan(s) directly into that mthrbrd CPUFan header. If you KEEP the MIO mthrbrd fan cable connected then your best bet is to plug your air cooler fan(s) into the SysFan header in the light strip (where old rad-fan was plugged in), IF, of course, CPUFan header is dumb 12v constant. If it's 'smart', then yes plug in there instead

If you change out the mthrbrd for an aftrmrkt type, you'd re-use the alien-cooler (no changes needed), or try an aftrmrkt AIO cooler, or go air-cooled

The new mthrbrd, if air-cooled, disconnect MIO Fan cable & plug into mthrbrd CPUFan header as normal. If not?, then plug into SysFan header in the top light strip, or CPUFan header if it's 'smart'

*If the top light strip CPUFan header is 'dumb' constant 12volts, then NO GOOD to use it for heatsink fans, just for aftrmrkt AIO pump motors, like when owners were installing Corsair H80i with its 3pin fan connector into CPUFan header up top, they didnt overheat as a result of pump 'running too slow', instead pumps ran full speed (& I think 3pin fans will run full speed too at all times which would make them worthless off of that header)

If you go aftrmrkt mthrbrd + aftrmrkt AIO cooler, plug AIO into CPUFan header up top, or here I make a cooling adaptor to convert AIO pumps back into 7pin power so CmndCntr can monitor pump status (as running vs failed) as it does w/ the aliencooler

Again, I don't remember what the top light strip CPUFan header does with 3pin or 4pin PWM fans, it's easily tested though to see if it's smart (fan speeds based on CPU TEMP) vs a dumb (constant 12v) header

What DOES happen for the top light strip SysFan header, is the motherboard sends the MIO board a speed signal over the mthrbrd's CPUFan header, MIO then relays that signal to the rad-fan through the SysFan header up top, so a 'smart' fan header ... therefore, try your 3pin & 4pin PWM fans in BOTH headers up there, see what happens

Thanks.  Do you know which wire connects to the top lighting board connector to the left of Sys_fan?  

the temp sensor of top lighting board is unused.  

I have read your discussion on AWCC 3.5 well proven success with Win 10 in R4.  based on my memory from A51 R1, it is better to use older version of AWCC and stay away from Dell’s later most updated version which can be more buggy.

The R4 I am testing has a clean Win 10 install and runs fine without any AWCC.  Cpu temp stays cool. It turns on default blue side panel led.  Again based on A51 R1, I hesitate to install any AWCC in this unit now.   AWCC is a big program.  When there is no AWCC to auto load at beginning, Win 10 seems to start smoothly.  I also set the pc without internet for now.  That may have stopped Win 10 from auto updating, which gives a very fast boot time on hdd almost as fast as ssd.

 I do not plan to overclock the cpu or change side panel led.  The question is, as long as cpu temp stays cool based on HWmonitor, I do not really need AWCC.  Just let MIO auto pilot the liquid cooler.  I suppose without AWCC, MIO still communicates with motherboard in the background as a usb2.0 device and auto controls rad fan based on cpu temp.  On power up, there is a loud boom fan noise most likely from high rpm of rad fan, which quiets down quickly as the motherboard finishes POST.

Where can I purchase an asertek cpu  cooler?

Hi y'all, I recently purchased an icue h60i cpu cooler for my Aurora R4. I am unsure where the single wire from the pump goes. I plugged the radiator fan into the system fan connector on the upper light strip like the original cpu pump. There are 2 plugs from the pump for 1 or 2 Radiator fans though. The fan runs either way. (slow on startup) there is no AIO plug. However, there is a SATA cable which I plugged in one of the SATA connections. My question is: "Should I purchase the 3-pin to 7-pin adapter cable and plug it in to the CPU fan connector on the upper lighting board?"

Thanks for your help, in advance.

Regards, Easycool.

The Corsair Hydro Series H60 (2018) is made by Asetek . . . as are the Dell OEM 120mm AIO coolers for the Aurora Series; at least up through R12.

Your H60i is made by Asetek.

Re: Where can I purchase an asertek cpu cooler?

https://www.asetek.com/liquid-cooling/gaming-enthusiasts/cpu-cooling/gen6-mainstream-cpu-coolers/

650LS and 650LX AIOs each come equipped with 120mm fan compatibility. The 650LS HEX is 120 x 120 x 27mm while the HEX dimensions on the 650LX are 120 x 120 x 49mm.

The single wire from the H60 pump is just a tach signal . . . reporting the pump rpm. It really does not have to be plugged in anywhere, unless you need it to correct a startup error. In later model Aurora Series, the pump tach is connected to CPU_FAN header, and is sufficient to have the BIOS detect an air cooled CPU, and avoid the diagnostic startup error. This is necessary because the H60 AIO cooler sources power from a SATA connection to the PSU. The OEM AIO cooler sources power from the 4-pin PUMP_FAN mobo connector, which signals BIOS that the CPU is liquid cooled, and a CPU_FAN connection is not required.

Thanks. That helps alot. Professor WOOd says that the icue h60i is made by Asertek. So it should work in my Aurora R4.

Currently, I'm battling  "no video, no post", and "no beeps with all of the memory removed" issues. I purchased a power supply tester and checked all of the voltages. None were bad. All of the connectors were showing proper voltages.

Dell tech support suggested to use the power supply (875w),test button to test the motherboard and CPU. I followed these instructions and no errors were noted. So now, I'm not sure if the processor or the motherboard is bad. Also, even if all of the voltages test good, that doesn't mean the power supply can carry a load.

My other question is: if I was using UEFI software, maxim or Miriam, I forgot the name, could resetting the bios by cmos battery removal and performing rst jumper reset, will that stop the PC from posting? Previously,  I was forced to purchase a new motherboard because old one was bricked due to the failed bios update. So now, when I removed all of the memory sticks and restart the PC, there should be a series of beeps, but I have none. So either the MB or power supply is bad. I checked the  power supply voltages, and all are good.

I guess I'll search for a new MB...again. never had so much trouble with a pc as the r4. Even ones I built never had so many problems. I swear, all I did was to properly shut it down the night before. Now I have a mess. Sheesh! Thanks for your patience and listening to my raving. I just want to get back to playing WOW & Diablo Imortal.

If you are looking at another motherboard, but don't know what is exactly wrong with your current system and you might be looking at more components to replace, you might want to look at a complete working system rather than keep fiddling with this by now outdated PC.

Just something to think about.

Vanadiel gives a good point.  X79 is certainly a bit outdated for gaming in 2022.  But their price is still somewhat high because of the X chipset niche.  It is more a piece of retro collectible tech for users who long for nostalgia.

You can put a more modern 300 series microATX board in R4 case, Intel 8th gen cpu +DDR4 ram (windows 11 qualified) and still able to install AWCC (using registry key in public domain) and control LED etc.

Re: resetting the bios by cmos battery removal and performing RTCRST jumper reset, will that stop the PC from posting?

I do not think so.

You can find many good deals on Amazon for various Dell or other brand used but warrantied by amazon work stations. If you look around a bit you can get some older Xeon business desktops, or some newer ones.

They can be had for around $300.

I see many pre-owned motherboards on amazon and ebay. One even has a 4820cpu included. Not sure if I should trust it though. A brand new motherboard goes for $325.00. My problem is I don't have enough spare parts to swap to be sure it's the motherboard.

I know that the 3930k CPU is pretty sturdy though. I'm thinking it shut down due to the failed CPU cooler. I installed the CPU cooler, but I can't tell if the pump is running because I can't get the  PC to post. So frustrating.

Vanadiel, I know you are right. It might be prudent to purchase a new PC, but I love this Aurora R4. It's been so good until it took a major dump.

I just wanted to upgrade the video card and CPU and press on with pride. That way I can run the latest games for now and maybe for a few years more.

Anyway, Kudos to all 3 of you for your invaluable help.

Hello, 

Here there's place to attach a 6 cm fan and use the available cpu fan header. How to attach it given that there's no access to the other part of the honeycomb otherwise than unmouting the top of the tower - which is a real challenge, especially in the alx version. 

Thanks! 

I removed the top off of my ALX & installed a pair of Scythe Kaze Jyu 100x100x12mm fans, I used x4 zipties on each fan to mount them ... zipties might work without removing the top if you take your time ... nuts bolts washers may also be an option

Other fan sizes might be 92mm, 80mm, 10mm-12mm wide, unknown if a 15mm wide is ok or not but probably

I removed the whimpy memory fan, & power is applied through the top Mem_Fan header, using a fan y-splitter cable (dual fans off one header)