Aurora R4, wiring of MIO board

I suggest you replace with proper OEM part. If that is not available, you might want to set BIOS/Power to "Always power-ON" and then use on-off switch on power-strip.

Here is a schematic for the Aurora R4

https://diagramweb.net/alienware-aurora-wiring-diagram.html

I thought about that, but I gave up this time because the reliability of the accuracy of the switch part is low.

The cause is unknown, but CLICK "ALLOW" TO CONTINUE is displayed at the link destination, and I cannot proceed any further.
Is this link related to wiring?

https://www.alienowners.com/threads/alienware-aurora-r4-custom-motherboard-not-work-bio.7512/page-2

I read the link.
I tried my best to think about it.

Is Reset SW from the BLINK connector?
Is the main power switch from ODD sensors (ODD_SW)?
Is the power LED from the ODD LED?

I know it's better to disassemble my PC once, but since it's only this one, if I disassemble it now, I can't read the discussion here.

The Top I/O Assembly (with Power Button) is part# 5W6MX

Tap into PWR SW pins 6 & 8

_______________________

Is Reset SW from BLINK connector? There is no Reset SW
Is main power switch from ODD sensors (ODD_SW)? NO
Is power LED from ODD LED? NO

It's an MSI motherboard, so the front panel JFP1 header is a basic industry standard pinout

Motherboard JFP1 PWR LED - HDD LED - PWR SW all wire up to the 5W6MX top I/O

Thanks @Cass-Ole .

I just remembered there was some "definite strangeness" in how the Aurora-R4 power-switch was wired (and I think Aurora R1-R4 were all done similarly).

This page saved as "Cass-Ole on Aurora-R4 power-switch wiring and MIO-board - Dell Forum.pdf"

I'd say every R1-R4 owner needs to take great care when using the top pwr button, since the plunger mechanism it's fragile. Usually the outer plunger fails, while the inner button itself may still be good. To check if the button itself is stilll ok, 1) disassemble the front / top I/O area of PC 2) remove the plastic top housing from 5W6MX & expose the plunger & press it --> if no good, expose the raw power on button & press it. If it doesn't work, repair, replace, or insert generic button/switch (from prior post earlier)

In otherwords the button may still work, even if the plunger aspect failed as they can / do fail / break etc

Mechanism consists of top silver finish piece, mid-plunger, then raw button

see Manuals & Docs for the PDF Owner Manual to gain access to top i/o pwr button etc

Thank you for your detailed information.
I'll make some time to work in the near future.

By the way, another question is, which is the power supply to these switches and LEDs, 5v or 12v?
Considering the thickness of the wiring and its function, I always thought that it was 5v ...

Sorry it took so long.

Somehow I managed to finish modifying the switch.

I haven't yet added the reset switch line because the parts haven't arrived yet.

The switch itself has already been installed.

On the left is the power switch and power lamp.
On the right is the reset switch (planned) and HDD access lamp.

The lock on the front door was damaged and wouldn't close, so I fixed a switch here.
The wiring passes through the back side of the resin part above the intake port and exits to the I/O board side.

These various types of wiring are cut directly below the switch and routed from the middle of the duct at the back to the front.

In the future, we plan to fix the reset switch wiring to the MB connector.

(Currently, there is no connector itself in the reset switch part, so it is probably possible to add one)