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Aurora R8, Experience of Buying
My Alienware Aurora R8 experience
It has been 95 days since I hit the "order" button and at this point, I am glad to say that I am happy with my purchase of the R8. My decision to buy an Alienware desktop started a month before that when I bought another Dell system, an Optiplex 27" AIO with i7 8700 and GTX 1050. At that time, my plan was to use the PC mainly as a surfing/ email machine with some additional juice to run games like Forza Horizon 4. Long story short, that plan fell apart and I decided I needed something that I can have a little bit more control over. Enter the desktop PC.
I've been over to several BYO websites like wepc and pcgamer to look at building my own rig but like many of us here observed, Dell's solution are usually cheaper... provided you're willing to live with what it means to deal with the many colorful issues we see in this forum.
Configured my system as below (trimmed to show the main parts):
1 210-ARGS Alienware Aurora R8
1 801-1540 Onsite/In-Home Service After Remote Diagnosis, 1 Year
1 490-BEUO AMD Radeon RX 560X with 4GB GDDR5
1 321-BDXH 850W EPA Bronze PSU Liquid Cooled Chassis
1 801-1493 Dell Limited Hardware Warranty Initial Year
1 570-AACN Alienware Mouse Is Not Included
1 580-ABUI Keyboard Not Included
1 555-BDBY 802.11ac 1x1 WiFi and Bluetooth
1 400-AMXY 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 6Gb/s (64MB Cache)
1 370-ADUC 8GB, DDR4 2666MHz
1 619-AHCQ Windows 10 Home (64bit) English
1 338-BSDW 9th Gen Intel Core i5-9400 (6-Core/6-Thread 9M Cache,4.1GHz Processor with Intel® Turbo Boost Technology)
The order was placed about a week before a US holiday so I was wary of a price drop. However, there was a good 15% discount and that takes a big chunk out of the 850W PSU + liquid cooling upgrade. Total damage is $875 + $76 in tax. I also have DFS account with 12 month interest-free payment and 6% reward.
Like many of you AW owners, waiting for the PC to arrive was a practice of patience. Initially the system showed that it will take ~10 days for it to arrive. I reached out to order support via chat and the rep was very helpful in explaining that other than ready-to-ship AW (like the tons of outlet R7s), most AW systems are built after order received. He did mention he will put a note that we chatted about my wait time concern. I didn't expect that to change anything until 2 days later, I was notified the system was shipped! And 2 days after that, a huge brown box with an alien head sat on my front porch. Without any signature required. Thanks UPS!
Unboxing the system brought me back to my first Dell which was a 17" laptop bought as a college graduation gift in 2003. As I plugged the cables and powered on the system, everything was flawless. Including Cortana's 90dB "HELLO". Ran Heaven benchmark just to get some numbers on the RX560 before shutting down the system and adding/ replacing the following:
WD Blue 1 TB HDD --> Crucial P1 500GB SSD [$61]
RX560X --> MSI RX580 Armor OC 8GB [$160 after $20 rebate]
Reinstalled Win10 with the image from Dell's recovery tool on the SSD. Everything worked great after that until the day I decided to upgrade my RAM...
GTS81
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August 24th, 2019 13:00
That 3.5" spinner has been sitting in a box since I started this forum posting.
r72019
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August 24th, 2019 13:00
Note that an additional case fan in the top front under the optical drive would require losing the 3.5" spinner, if you have one.
GTS81
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August 24th, 2019 13:00
I have no need or want of a noise source in my silent R8 build so I got rid of as many mechanical noise sources as possible. This obsession has driven me to the point I'm spending an hour everyday messing with the machine even when it means just sticking a piece of foam or paper here and there to reduce vibration.
In addition to that, I do need a 2.5" bracket located somewhere. I wanted to place it at the lower back location but it causes my H55 tubes to push against it. I know that there's no negative impact to it but I just want to see those AIO tubes curve nicely and not get obsessed to a point where I go custom loop. To anyone thinking of convincing me down that path, please don't.
I removed them, hacked them as a fan holder, put them back, removed and then put them back, and I cannot measure any difference in temperatures both idle and benchmark. Finally put them back to not have my R8 becoming the next home for any bugs.
HanoverB
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August 24th, 2019 13:00
If/when you get your Dremel rotary tool....(I use it all the time for other stuff, pretty handy tool)
Use it to remove all or part of this piece on the front bezel. Take a look at the stability of the front bezel to see if you need to leave some of that cross piece intact. Perhaps remove the middle section on either side of the round tube there.
That would allow air to get to the front upper part of the chassis.
Option now to add a front upper intake fan.
Should help with airflow to the upper compartment and cool the CPU and the GPU as case temps should drop as well.
HanoverB
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August 24th, 2019 13:00
Yep.
Would move that to the lower back HDD location. Lower front intake fan should keep it cooler considering there is minimal airlflow through that front bezel in the upper front HDD position.
I would also remove the back PCI-e tabs for better airflow as well.
HanoverB
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August 24th, 2019 14:00
So as I start moving away from these boards I want to pass some info on an Alienware Aurora R7/R8 case swap.
When a case swap is more cost effective and less difficult than a case mod, that’s when you consider doing this. Upside would be 240mm/280mm radiators as cooling options, more fan and SSD/HDD placement options, LED options. That's what you gain.
Looks like the case swap can be done with minor testing to solve potential firmware issues having to do with the power switch, USB headers and LED effects.
Here is a 240mm CPU radiator build using the Phanteks Elite P350x case with the Dell XPS 8930 motherboard. On that thread, there is also the initial post using the same case using a single CPU radiator as intake and a GPU AIO liquid cooler as exhaust. The case swap gives you the flexibility of different cooling options if and when the R7/R8 case limits you. With a -K processor and overclocking, 240/280mm radiators are recommended.
Some relevant info on that short thread. Shows pics of three different case swaps and focuses on the Phanteks case swap. Info on similar motherboard headers, wireless antenna and PSU cable routing, etc. Noted differences are the two 4 pin PSU motherboard power connectors on the R7/R8 motherboard, one for the CPU and the other for the GPU. That is not an issue. However, there is no front panel header for the Power switch on the R7/R8 motherboard, more on this below.
First off, the R7/R8 motherboard standoff screw locations are exactly the same as the XPS 8930 so it’s a standard micro-ATX motherboard. No problems with fitment in a new case.
The Aurora R7/R8 motherboard connectors involved in a case swap appear to be the following:
1) Power Switch
2) USB Connector
3) Front Audio Connector (lower left yellow connector, left of 17)
4) Wireless Antenna
5) Fan headers
6) PSU connectors
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1) Power Switch
With the R5/R6/R7/R8 models there is no front panel header on the motherboard for the power switch. Rather the power switch wiring is part of the power button module/LED controller cable that plugs into the long 12 pin white motherboard header (17 in pic from manual) called LED CONTROLLER.
It's a several part cable, shown below. You've all seen parts of this cable as you worked inside the case and the panels:
First pic is the power button module/LED controller card in the top cover
Second is this cable with multiple connectors which connects that power button module to various LED connections (side panel LED, LED light board) on the case and terminates on the far left of the pic below as the 12 pin multi wire cable connector (cable end has Dell P/N V593G label) that powers everything off the long white motherboard header (17 on R7 motherboard pic).
With the new case, you would eliminate all that wiring and just use two pins on the motherboard header for the power switch on the new case. But because the power switch wiring is integrated into the LED controller card cable, you have to figure out which pins are used for the 5V Power + and – on the long 12 pin white motherboard header. This has been discussed in detail here and here by @Cass-Ole for Aurora older machines.
This appears to be shown here using pins 3 and 4 on this picture from a R7 to NZXT case swap post and his set of linked images
On that Reddit post, he also states that you have to turn off the onboard LED components like the side panel LED lid switch via the R7 BIOS. Not sure if that means without turning them off, you get an error of some kind. That would be part of the testing. If with the LED functions not working, if a startup error would occur which would need to be somehow bypassed.
You can see all the LED controller cable wiring from the power button module and LED boards on this pic that I assumed he had connected for testing.
LED light board and Side Door LED light board, all shown above connected to the LED controller cable.
2) USB connector requirements
Next part of the testing is you need to determine if you will get a startup error if the USB connectors on the new case are plugged into one or both of the black and blue USB headers on the Dell motherboard.
On the XPS 8910/20, the USB 3.0 cable from the new case could be plugged into either motherboard header and there were no issues. Just plug the USB cables from the new case into the header and it worked fine. No errors at all. Easy case swap. Hopefully this is the same with the R7/R8.
On the XPS 8930, you had to have the original USB cables from the Dell upper IO unit plugged into both of those connectors to avoid a startup error. If this applies to any of the Aurora R7/R8 machines, 1) you would have to bring that IO unit into the case. 2) Then you had to add a PCI-E USB 3.0 card onto the motherboard to connect the USB cables from the new case. This would be the workaround if you encounter this on the R8 vs the R7. Same workaround as shown on the XPS 8930 case swap thread. Hopefully, this isn’t required.
R7 USB/Audio unit.
So on this pic, it looks like he has both the LED connector card and cable AND the upper IO Unit with the USB/Audio ports connected to the motherboard from outside the case for testing.
In this pic, it looks like he has it sorted out and don’t see any of the two Dell component connectors on the headers. So, the assumption is that all is fine. I wish there was a follow up post somewhere with all the details if there are indeed startup error encountered. I was unable to find this.
Those two issues concerning
1) Power switch and LED lighting,
2) USB headers
are the only potential problems I can foresee which need to be tested as to the workarounds.
Otherwise the only other connectors you have which should be straightforward would be:
3) front audio cable connector from the new case to the Intel standard yellow 10 pin Audio header on the motherboard . This would control the headphone and mic jacks on the new case.
4) move the wireless card antenna to the new case. Same way to remove the card as on the XPS 8930. Antenna should snap on and off the card if you need to take them off to move them out of the original case.
You can see where he mounted the wireless card to the top of the SSD holders.
I tucked the antennas into some tie down tabs on the Phanteks case
5) Use the fan headers on the motherboard as necessary for the new case fans and radiators.
6) Same PSU connectors: 24 pin ATX connector, the two CPU and GPU motherboard power connectors, and SATA connectors to your SSD/HDD.
Rear IO Shield Issue:
Rear IO shield on the Alienware case can’t be moved so will look like this.
You can order the mesh IO shield that I used on the XPS 8930 if you want to clean this up.
Just a starting place for info for the case swap. Good luck!
HanoverB
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August 24th, 2019 14:00
This is an interesting video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2sOqG-K6j6I
Moving the GPU radiator to the upper exhaust position. That position is still best served for CPU AIO cooling.
Not quite sure how much the hoses are crimped where 1) the PSU bracket closes down on it 2) at the radiator hose outlets. Looks a little risky especially since he has the stock Intel CPU cooler and the VR heatsink in the way as well. Guess it's not leaking for him.....and looks at his temps, pretty solid.
I would think you would get the same temps with the front grill cutout.
The CPU could be cooled using the front upper intake position, similar to the XPS 8930. Subject to the thermal limits of the 120mm radiator again for OC, but you would at least be intake cooling.
Anonymous
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August 24th, 2019 14:00
@GTS81
If you are still in active communication with them, would you mind asking if the sense wires are the same gauge as the regular wires? Seasonic sent me their wiring diagram and I see them use 18 AWG for regular and 22 AWG for sense.
Response from SoloSleeving :
"Regarding the question, yes, the sense wires match the rest of the wires in the cables. Some manufacturers use 18, 20, or 22 gauge wire for the sense wires, but due to the handmade nature of my cables, I always use 16 gauge wire throughout the entire cable. This ensures safer operations, and more efficient solder joints.
If you, or the other members, happen to have any other questions, please feel free to let me know."
GTS81
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August 24th, 2019 14:00
Thank you for that link because it made me realize something important: No way I can fit an EVGA hybrid card and the radiator into the front slot. This helps me narrow down my next card upgrade to only 1: MSI Seahawk X.
Like you, I was wondering why didn't those hoses get crimped ? And then when I watched the video, I thought "whoa, those tubes look long". So I searched online and this was what I found:
Corsair H55 - 11.5"
Seahawk 2080 X - 12.5"
EVGA 2080 XC Hybrid - speculating at 15.5"!!! (from 1080 Ti EVGA hybrid adapter spec)
So if I tried to stick the card into the R8, there will be no way to comfortably fit the tubes inside and still have the radiator that near in front. In fact, the whole top outlet setup worked in this video is exactly this reason. It wouldn't have worked with the lower front intake method that we have. (With a Kraken G12, long tubes still have some leeway because there are 4x 90degrees orientations for the pump to lock on to the G12. With EVGA or MSI AIO cards, you're pretty much stuck with what's there.)
HanoverB
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August 24th, 2019 19:00
reply to @GTS81
Thank you for that link because it made me realize something important: No way I can fit an EVGA hybrid card and the radiator into the front slot. This helps me narrow down my next card upgrade to only 1: MSI Seahawk X.
Like you, I was wondering why didn't those hoses get crimped
? And then when I watched the video, I thought "whoa, those tubes look long". So I searched online and this was what I found:
Corsair H55 - 11.5"
Seahawk 2080 X - 12.5"
EVGA 2080 XC Hybrid - speculating at 15.5"!!! (from 1080 Ti EVGA hybrid adapter spec)
So if I tried to stick the card into the R8, there will be no way to comfortably fit the tubes inside and still have the radiator that near in front. In fact, the whole top outlet setup worked in this video is exactly this reason. It wouldn't have worked with the lower front intake method that we have. (With a Kraken G12, long tubes still have some leeway because there are 4x 90degrees orientations for the pump to lock on to the G12. With EVGA or MSI AIO cards, you're pretty much stuck with what's there.)
Picture of EVGA hybrid in an R6 from this thread
GTS81
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August 24th, 2019 19:00
Totally forgot that the tubes can go backwards first and then forward.
Thanks!
Anonymous
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August 24th, 2019 20:00
@GTS81 Totally forgot that the tubes can go backwards first and then forward
Still looks like the hoses would be dragging across the top of that graphics card as you open and close the barn door. Probably should get a back plate, unless that makes the squeeze too tight.
EDIT: to be clear, I am referring to that Youtube video a few posts up (on the previous page now).
Anonymous
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August 24th, 2019 20:00
@GTS81 Sounds like your RAM will be last in the loop and depending on your workload, coolant, pump speed, you may want to see if the RAM waterblock still takes away heat from the RAM or will end up dumping heat from the CPU + GPU on the RAM. Thermal equilibrium works both ways my friend.
Thanks for pointing out that potential issue, Mr. Thermodynamics
I just bought six G 1/4 in-line temperature sensors with digital displays, so we can see exactly what is happening, thermodynamically speaking, throughout the entire cooling loop.
My F5 refresh key is wearing out as a result of the pathetic, and increasingly worse software glitches supporting this forum platform. WIF DELL? (it's not **bleeped**)
GTS81
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August 24th, 2019 22:00
I'm an EE so my thermodynamics conjectures are sometimes as good as wild guesses.
I think by Christmas you'll be pondering the idea of a phase-change loop...
Why the need to hit F5 so often? We're replying on top of one another at that rapid a rate? I know that happened 2-3 times today with @HanoverB joining the party.
GTS81
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August 24th, 2019 23:00
Dang crickets. No fan nor liquid cooling can help me.