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June 14th, 2018 11:00

Alienware M11X (R3) not powering on (Windows 10)

My Alienware M11X R3 won't power on. I have recently applied Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut (a gallium alloy paste) and I've cleaned the tacky matte surface off with a lot of scraping from my tiny screwdriver, and I've drilled a couple holes in preparation for a copper water cooling circuit (Motherboard removed each time to prevent damage to it). It didn't turn on today, even though I've made sure to put it completely back together (including the screws) because I know that sometimes it might not POST if the screen is damaged. So, I have a couple of ideas for what's broken. The screen could be damaged by the alcohol I used (91% Isopropanol), or my power button board isn't working. I've checked the Memory in another computer (8GB, I'm using an x64 system) and I've made sure it's charged. The charging circuit works, it's just that it won't boot on AC. Basically, I'm lugging a 4-pound pile of garbage around (2009 MacBook Pro) to replace this computer temporarily. Is there any way I can get the button working again, or should I just grab a new power button board off Ebay? I feel like if the button weren't broken and something else was the cause, I'd see the lighting I set for it turn on before it shut off again. I don't think I want to check down in the heatsink because all Gallium thermal pastes are pretty expensive, but I have bought an i7 Motherboard to replace the i5. It'll arrive in three weeks, unfortunately, but I'll keep you guys posted for the motherboard swap in case it isn't about the power button circuit and is just that gallium has suddenly begun eating away the CPU and GPU die heads. I'm fairly certain as of writing this that it's just the stupid power button board - the same final issue I had after I cobbled together an XPS M1330 and it wouldn't turn on (the power button board wasn't present in that case, either). 
If my i7 board doesn't turn on (it's certified working) then I'll know it's my power button. And I'll have to buy another Power Button board so I can use my i5 like it's a desktop computer. If you guys can verify that the power board button is the main issue and all the other modifications I've done shouldn't impact the computer, then I'll go ahead and buy two new ones for my motherboards. 
Thanks,
Revolver265
(This is my first post here. Let me know if I'm doing something wrong.)
Edit: If there's a way I can manually short out the pins in the power button board in order to make it turn on, I will be eternally grateful for this temporary fix.

September 12th, 2018 03:00

I never actually posted a reply to this, but after a motherboard swap for an i7, my Alienware is working again. Apparently the obtuse amount of gallium paste I used began to cold-desolder the capacitors on the mobo, ruining the CPU and GPU, as well as some surrounding capacitors. I ignored the instructions, thinking the paste would harden, but "liquid" is in the literal name. I put a pea-sized droplet (which is normal for thermal paste) instead of a pinhead-sized droplet (which is what was in the instructions). What an expensive mistake.

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