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Best way to OC the 630i
Hey,
I'm recently trying to OC my 630 to around 3ghz. I have red about it, and it should be easy doable with stock volt and cooler.
But as i tried, i coudn't do it the old way.. trough the bios. Simply because i can't find anything there that alows me to adjust the FSB... I can change the volt, the mem, etc.. but not the FSB
So i tried the Nvidia tool.. but that is really anoying. I reached 2.7ghz with no prb, but as soon as i hitted 2.8, it still loaded to windows.. but then the whole screen just froze and you coudn't do anything. The only way to undo it, was to go to save mode and delete the profile you made in the Nvidia tool.
Have any of you have experience with Oc'ing your 630 and what result did you get? And especially, how did you managed to get it?
Kind regards,
Shark1217
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May 6th, 2008 18:00
Rambler358
526 Posts
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May 6th, 2008 18:00
Mr. Scary
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May 6th, 2008 20:00
Nice find m$! Everything you wanted to know, but were afraid to ask...
Exactly! Afraid is the key word, i think:)
Whoa - after just checking UPS tracking, looks like my Nautilus is out for delivery and I should have it today instead of tomorrow. Now it's just a matter of getting the time to break open my computer and do this right - take pics, etc.
I'll have mine hopefully tomorrow. they're sending it over to the store closest to me from another store. Get on that Rambler, i need to know any helpful pointers! I think the biggest thing i took away from that article is to let it run OUTSIDE the case before you put it INSIDE! sounds smart to me. i'll be watchin the board for yer progress, bro!
Mr. Scary
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May 6th, 2008 21:00
Rambler358
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May 6th, 2008 21:00
Well, I could use any helpful pointers myself - I'm no expert at this! :smileywink: Yeah, getting it hooked up outside the case and running it for a while be the smart thing to do. So I'll need to start this project when I can do without my PC for a couple days I think.
Rambler358
526 Posts
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May 6th, 2008 22:00
Mr. Scary
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597 Posts
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May 6th, 2008 22:00
Mr. Scary
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597 Posts
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May 6th, 2008 22:00
Rambler358
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May 6th, 2008 22:00
Well, it has been delivered but I'm still at work for about another 1/2 hour or so.
Those Coolsleeves look interesting. But I hear that the PCI slot for the Nautilus tubes can be a tight fit. One of the first things I plan on doing is dremmeling out those holes a bit so they're a bit larger and nice and smooth. Don't want that tubing get cut or sliced! :smileysurprised:
Mr. Scary
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May 6th, 2008 22:00
also, depending on the/your fit, i/we may have to look into these:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=399_397&products_id=2441
Mr. Scary
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May 6th, 2008 22:00
i suppose you could dangle the water block out the side of the case, that would work as well, until i test mine and figure out where i'm gonna put it, i'm gonna leave the 2 5' tubes at just about full length. i read in that link/thread i posted earlier that the length of the hose won't really effect the cooling ability or performance of the unit. you'll just have to use a bit more coolant and water initially. also i read on there that we should make our own mixture of coolant and water, using antifreeze. this is so the different metals in the system won't degrade being mixed together, or something like that. there's pics in the link as well..??...
went back thru and foound this:
Making Own Coolant
1) Buy 1 gallon Distilled Water ($1-2).
2) Buy 50/50% AF($8) or Additive (high concentration AF) ($3-$5). Buy 2-3 additive bottles for the future so you don’t have to buy it again.
3) Use 1 liter bottle to mix distilled water with additive per instruction to make coolant. Use 1 gallon bottle to mix water with 50:50AF using 25 oz., 38 oz., 50 oz., and 64 oz. or half AF and half water for 10%, 15%, 20%, 25% concentrations. Mark the bottles as coolant so no one confuses it with juice or Gatorade. Little more than ½ liter or 16 ounces on average are used to fill setups.
4) DON’T USE DRINKING WATER or TAP water , it contains minerals that will speed up corrosion.
Pentosin <> Zerex <> HydraX <> Feser <> PetraTech Long Life Red Additive
Galvanic corrosion
Galvanic corrosion can completely kill performance of water cooling loop and ruin all the parts. So take the proper precautions against it. In water cooling you different metals in contact with each by a liquid medium. Different metals have different galvanic potentials. The most negative potentials are very reactive (Zinc, Magnesium, Aluminum) and the most positive are very inactive and resistant to corrosion (gold, platinum, silver, carbon). WCing parts that contain aluminum, an active metal with negative potential, can corrode. Aluminum is often anodized or plated to help prevent corrosion but if you do use aluminum parts try to use higher concentration of AF and more additive, minimal 20%-25%. The extra concentration of AF will protect against corrosion and not reduce performance that much. Also note barbs, radiators, and pumps and other parts contain nickel plated stainless steel or brass. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion http://www.assda.asn.au/asp/index.asp?pgid=18533
================================================== ==================================================
galvanic distortion is what i was talkin' about. that's a pretty nasty pic of a water block, huh?
Rambler358
526 Posts
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May 6th, 2008 23:00
I probably won't be posting more tonight. I'll take a few initial pics and likely dremmel out the PCI slot thingy, and then start the rest tomorrow. Have to get in a little family time too. But who knows, just don't expect much (if anything) this evening - unless there's some snags like I need to send the unit back or something.
I did read most of the article, but I also sent the link home for reading more later. They expect me to do some work while I'm "working". :smileywink:
Mr. Scary
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May 7th, 2008 15:00
Rambler you crack me up. I'll get right on that and let you know how it works out! NOT! I think there's another fan connection up at the top of the mobo as you look in from the side towards the left corner. also i think you can get power from one of the harneses for the hdd's, yes? no? take a look. keep us posted, mine is on hold to i iron out my newly found problems, see other posts. good luck and happy cooling.
ps-did you note your idle and load temps in stock config? what are they if i can ask?
tx
Rambler358
526 Posts
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May 7th, 2008 15:00
Couple of things I noticed about the Nautilus. It's larger than what I thought, I first put it on top of the 630 with the bag still on and I wasn't sure if it would stay in place. Then I took it out of the bag, and the Nautilus' rubber feet seemed to secure it well. But if those feet were to come off, it wouldn't be the best place to hold it.
Next, there are two (1-wire) 3-pin connectors that the documentation says is for monitoring the Nautilus' fan and pump speeds. I can put one connector where the old HSF was, but not sure where to put the second? I already have a rear case fan that's using the one connector at the rear of the case, and I don't think I want to remove that fan. Would I even need that second connection, as I don't know if the nVidia System Monitor would be able to recognize the connection to see the pump speed?
Didn't get a chance to do much last night, but hopefully I'll be able to get into some of it tonight.
I was also considering the thought of replacing the Dell mobo with an nVidia 780i or perhaps even a 790i - anyone else?
m$ - since you're so in with Fry's, perhaps you could grab one real quick and see if it will work? :smileyvery-happy:
Mr. Scary
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May 7th, 2008 16:00
what i'd like to know is if a different board will be able to utilize the nvidia software that we can't right now. also i'm reading in another thread that our setup with the 650I and mobo are not supporting esa.???.???
i'm really curious now about your temps, i'll check them out tonight when you post!