XPS One 24 won't power on

Hi fox408,

You can drain out the residual power of the computer by following the steps below:

• Power off the computer from the power button.
• Now, disconnect the power cable from the wall jack and remove all the cables connected to the back of system tower including the power cable.

• Keep the power button of the system tower pressed for 30 seconds.

• This will release the surplus power from the system.
• Connect the power cable and keyboard.
• Power on the computer. 

If you are able to power on the computer and are not able to get the display, check and let me know the status of power LED and media control buttons. 

Please reply with information.

Anyone?

took the back off, and the light on the motherboard is on when plugged in, so I believe it's not power supply related.

What else could it be?

You put the jumper back on pins 2 & 3 as instructed, after clearing BIOS?

Is the power button LED off?

If it's still under warranty, you should contact Dell Tech Support for repairs....

All the flea light says is the motherboard is receiving some power, but not necessarily the right power.

If you're using a power strip or surge protector, try removing those and connect the PC directly to the wall (maybe trying a different outlet too).

Since you've already been inside the case, you might consider resetting BIOS to the factory defaults using the procedure on page 20, here. Be sure to read and follow all the precautions and safety instructions before you start.

ah, makes sense.

Just reset the bios. No luck :(

I believe I put them back on how they were. Just to make sure though, how can you tell which pins are which? I have the computer facing right side up looking at them.

Yes the power button led is off.

And it is out of warranty.

Too bad about the warranty.  :emotion-6:

I can't find a diagram which shows the pin numbers, but I suspect the numbers may be printed right on the circuit board itself. May take a magnifying glass to see them.

No offense, but I have to ask:

1. You press power button on the left side of screen to turn PC on?
2. You touch display power button at bottom right corner on front of screen?

I'll see if I any of the other forum regulars have any suggestions...

Okay. Ill check with a magnifying glass. Though I did out them back how they were so it should be fine.

Yes correct about the power buttons. No luck.

Thank you:)

When I have a computer that won't power up ...

Computer starts up fine sometimes, but sometimes not
---------------------------------------------------
- Maybe it won't start at all or stops before complete BIOS posting
This list is about core hardware & power problems.
- "Windows won't start" is not covered here. You must be booting to a bootable environment.

If you changed something, but it back the way it was.
- Must verify motherboard, PS and machine still works.
Remove anything non-essential (USB, extra cards & drives, etc.)
- Maybe even install a lower-power but known-good video card.
Remove and re-attach all connectors, DIMMs, etc.
No CPU, MB, or GPU OverClocks should be activated. All stock speeds.
Be sure entire cooling system is working.
Check Power switch with Ohm-Meter or install temporary one.
Verify Power Supply wattage (large sticker).
If Power Supply has "Test Button" on back, make sure it tests good every time (like 10 in a row)
Test Power Supply with $25 digital Power Supply Tester
- Voltages and also "P.G." value between 100ms and 800ms
Try another known-good Power Supply (of equal or larger amperage)
Use good UPS (like APC), but also try directly into wall (at least once).
- Better to use UPS ... just make sure you are not having a "lack of pure sine-wave" problem

If not using a good UPS that stabilizes & monitors AC-power and quality, you should:
- Be sure wall AC Power is good and proper (by testing it).
- Be sure other high-amp machines (other desktops, TVs, AVRs, etc) work on this "leg" of the AC power
- Test machine on the other "120v leg" or another building.

-----------------------

In your case you have already tried to jolt motherboard awake. Now, test power switch. Test all DC voltages on the final multi-DC output side of power supply (like right before various voltages go to the various components). If you are not familiar with working inside computers, now would be a good time to hire professional help. Things can go from bad-to-worse right about now.

Wow guys, thanks a lot for the help.

I have to admit, I'm not great with electronics. In fact, I've never done testing with electronics or anything.

Unfortunately, seeking professional repair is not really possible right now, due to finances.

I understand.

Do you have any guesses as to what this kind of repair would cost at an independent repair shop? Or, even what it would cost to diagnose the problem?

I don't know, but I've kind of assumed that the worst it could be would be the power supply or motherboard.

I have to admit, I'm not great with electronics. In fact, I've never done testing with electronics or anything. Unfortunately, seeking professional repair is not really possible right now, due to finances.

Hard to say without knowing what's wrong with it. You will have labor and parts costs. Whether the main power supply is outside (in a box) or inside ... they are both pretty easy to change. It might be pricey because part is unique to Dell.

I think $50-$100 to diagnose. Most shops will apply that cost to repair costs if you decide to fix it. A motivated technician might take interest in it because it's a fairly new and unique design ... it would be something cool to work on.

If it's the motherboard, it might be cost prohibitive to fix due to the MB part cost (again, Dell unique) and the extra labor (install board, move processor, etc.).

You might be able to save some money by doing the OS and software reload yourself (if required). They could just fix it to at least run the BIOS and pass Dell Diagnostics (outside of Windows).

Where a real Dell desktop machine usually has a nice beefy over-powered Power Supply (to handle add-on upgrades), these unique smaller desktops and high-powered laptops (which your All-In-One is also similar to) tend to blow power supplies because they are minimal (to keep them small and no additional add-ons are really allowed anyway). Power supplies end up being proprietary and neither can accept after-market parts. This helps to insure machines are returned to OEM specs. ( a good thing) but does sometimes slightly increase repair costs.

If you or a friend knew computers (or could learn on your own) we could help more. However, we can't talk you though a repair like this in a forum (you wisely already admitted your skill-level). If it ended in disaster or machine still not working, where would you be? Just know, we are here to help however we can.