Hi, 

We have never tested this, so we cannot confirm if that is a safe way to keep the system. We recommend that you replace the MIO and install the Command Center, that would be the safest way to run the system and avoid thermal controller errors.

1. I have removed the AIO since the unit is at least eight years old and replaced it with a ThermalTake air cooler. 2. My MIO board has been bricked before due to what I think was an improper windows 10 install by not unplugging the usb1 mb connector.

3. I recently got an error on the windows desktop stating that, "ThermalController has stopped working" Windows can check...etc...

4. The PC hung and I forced restarted the system.  It rebooted into a black screen indicating "CMOS checksum Bad".

5. Since my mio is bricked anyway, can I uninstall Alienware CC and thermal controller, and continue to use the pc safely?

1. As you wish, but an Asetek-LQ or clone would have been better choice

2. Possible but not likely. Can usually reset MIO-Board with Dell 32bit Hardware Diags (outside of Windows).

3. Not unexpected in this strange config. Might be looking for pump or any number of reasons. Remember, that AWCC v2.8.11.0 (in Win-8 Compatibility Mode) is only version we can run on Aurora-R1 with Win10-64bit.

4. Likely unrelated. Replace CMOS coin battery and Reset BIOS with jumper. Test system with Dell 32bit Hardware Diags (outside of Windows).

5. I suggest you either replace MIO-Board and run AW-CC to make it a more normal config. Or, uninstall AW-CC and disconnect and by-pass MIO-Board ... like this:

https://community.dell.com/thread/24357-aurora-r3-components-compatible-with-an-aftermarket-case

You should be able to re-wire:
- Connect Asetek radiator fan directly to motherboard
- Create "Anti-MIO" adapter to get Asetek pump running (it just needs power, and is designed to run at constant speed).

 
 https://community.dell.com/message/5594 

Find some way to get PCIe and HDD fans running again (at least at a medium constant speed).  They really just need some power ... maybe even a little cheap (rheostat?) standalone PC-Fan device that you can wire inline and "set and forget". Search this forum for tips on modding to non-stock configs.

Thanks for providing detailed steps.

I've actually done the power down, jumper pins, and reinstall for the MIO beforehand as outlined by other guides on this forum.

I've also run dell 32 diag outside windows with a 2gb usb and I ran into a device initialization failure on usb root_hub 1 which is where the MIO is attached to.  Reconnection of the plug didn't help.

I will try chaning the CMOS battery and jump the mb pins.  The date and time have been holdig so far though.

The guide on bypassing the MIO is exactly what I was looking for.  I don't really want to deal with an AIO anymore and I think the anti MIO mod is what I need to do.

Maybe I'll have the board replaced in the future, but I i just need to run reliably on air.  I live outside the US and the pc is long past warranty.  It was just handed down to me and getting parts shipped from the states might be too costly atm.

Juls1366 wrote:

 

1. I will try chaning the CMOS battery and jump the mb pins.  The date and time have been holdig so far though.

 

2. The guide on bypassing the MIO is exactly what I was looking for.  I don't really want to deal with an AIO anymore and I think the anti MIO mod is what I need to do.

 

...  but I i just need to run reliably on air.  

1. I don't see how the MIO-Board could cause that "CMOS Checksum Bad" error. You are going to disconnect it anyway. Motherboard might finally be fried if above steps don't help. Maybe force a BIOS re-flash (from FreeDOS)?

2. So, with Thermaltake fan cooler there is just one fan connection. Would you not just connect that to motherboard?

Good luck. Good to keep machine working if you can. While I have an Aurora-R6, my Aurora-R1 still works as well. Still running original MIO-Board and Asetek Liquid-Cooler. However, I also have a spare Premium Asetek ( DPN: 01YGW) ready to drop in if/when this one fails.