Battery discharge rate on UPS systems

I have a jackery 500W and the battery almost never drains when I have a turned off AC load connected to it. The heat you mentioned together with 60% loss in charge sounds weird. You may want to do some more load/unloaded testing and reach out to the manufacturer if this persists.

Ah, now I'm upset with this UPS all over again!  I'll have to contact the manufacturer on Monday.

Even on new-construction and properly grounded 120v AC electrical systems (in the USA), I have seen lightning blow-holes in circuit boards and kill various machines (they act as a giant fuse). Any desktop we install or support get an APC-UPS (now-days with LCD and AVR) . I have nice APC UPS units on just about everything (all computer systems, NAS, networking, TVs, Amps, etc.). I think a nice "whole house" unit is on the horizon, but good ones are expensive and that does little for the office. 

The gel-cell batteries inside these UPS units only last about 3-5 years.

On the nicer pro-consumer/small-business APC units, you can usually replace the battery-cell once or twice. Better to use new APC-cells unless you know the cheaper generic-cell is exact-spec and high-quality.

These UPS units are harnessing great power. They get hot and do wear-out. Once you get one with AVR, you will see (hear) just how bad your power really is (spikes, surges, over/under-volt).

On a cheaper home-class unit ... before it's 2nd cell-change ... the outer plastic case-melted, burnt the carpet, and almost started a fire behind the entertainment-center.   Keep that in mind next time you are trying to save a few dollars. I wasn't sure if it was the lower-spec, age, but that was the last time I used a generic-gel-cell. Now, they are all out-in-the-open or on a piece of ceramic floor tile (and cells are only replaced once). 

I never use the USB-connection. I would rather it just keep stuff powered-up-always.

Wasn't going to post, but you hardly ever read anyone talking about them, so I thought this fit here. I've always known how important they are, but that they (the old ones) can be dangerous is new.

UPS that is not true SINE wave will damage PFC power supply.

Even with ZERO load the ups will drain battery.

They are not designed to run for hours.  Most will do 10 to 20 minutes max at full load.

---

@speedstep wrote:

UPS that is not true SINE wave will damage PFC power supply.

 

---

True. But todays SMPS are very forgiving (until they aren't and give-up) .

Back in the 90's the company I worked for had a Darentz Power Monitor ( with built-in Printer) .... remember those ?

Back before my oscilloscope blew-up, I used my Oneac device that let me see the actual 120v AC sine-wave. We looked at raw-AC power, Oneac power-conditioners, and various UPS units. Even back then, the modified sine-wave of the APC units looked very good (and of course, they ran everything just fine).

For years now with (constant) AVR on the pro-consumer units ... it is likely even better .

But now you don't have to worry or compromise, because you can get this newer APC-unit, and it really doesn't cost any more than before.

APC 1000va Sine-Wave UPS with LCD and AVR

@ Once you get one with AVR, you will see (hear) just how bad your power really is (spikes, surges, over/under-volt).

Yeah, in my case, I discovered that the 400W draw to pull my printer out of standby into printing mode causes a temporary drop in input voltage on the line to the UPS, which in turn switches to battery power for a few seconds.  Both are on the same circuit.  Adjusting the sensitivity didn't help, but luckily, I only use my printer on average once every other week.  

@ but now you don't have to worry or compromise, because you can get this newer APC-unit, and it really doesn't cost any more than before.

That's actually the model that I have!  But the 1500VA version. APC Sine Wave UPS, 1500VA, with AVR and LCD:  https://www.amazon.com/APC-Sinewave-Battery-Protector-BR1500MS/dp/B0779LDRWZ

The APC powerchute software lets me monitor the UPS and adjust the settings from my PC.  Not mentioned in the amazon tech specs, but the battery is 26 Ah.  The 0W (or to be fair maybe 2W since the monitors were off but plugged it) load drained 60% of this unit's battery in under 4 hours.  I understand these units drain power even with no load, but this seems like a pretty fast drain. 

It probably would not hurt to re-create the event and watch the unit more closely. I wonder if the monitors woke-up for a while?

My others are a few years old (but are still APC-LCD/AVR), but I do have one of the new 1350-Sine-Wave units (I put it on the projector).

I have a Canon-Laser on one, and a HP-Color Laser on another. I have never seen that, but I keep them on one of the "Surge Only " outlets as suggested. But yes, that is how sensitive they are.

finally what UPS you have is stated, and ends the non sine wave HORRORS.

now you must learn how inverters work in any UPS.

the burn power just being in INVERTER mode,  if you can do better , work for APC> tell them how to do it.

the PSU does have spec, or ask the maker what is the inverter power loss at 0watts out.

nobody runs UPS for hours after any shut down,  with BLACK out, they shut it down.

lets be clear here the UPS is for lasting the duration of the blackout, the operators have  chart telling the wen to shut down after so many minutes.

then will all PCs are shut off all loads are dead, the UPS is shut down next. saving very expensive batteries.

the top makers of UPS< have and auto shut down mode, in the settings (RTM) you tell  it to shut down

at battery SOC 30% or such. (if you drain a battery to 0% you killed it dead)

all TOP UPS do that, those settings. and there is table there in your manual telling you run time ant x load.

for sure,. if not then the UPS you bought is toy grade. end story.

the inverter inside is not 100% efficient ever.

the battery under load makes heat running the inverter

the choppers in the inverter waste power took even MOSfets do but newer types are better.

the chopper regs use power (waste)

and list the inverter is DRIVIng  huge transformer with large inductances and capacitance, that gets warm with your loads at  0watts. 

The Solar Cell industry now has endless coverage on these losses, for your same question.

The reshaping of the chopper square waves to near sine wave also wastes power.

the inverter may be 20% efficient at say 100watt load. and much much better near 100% load

but at 0watt load the inverter is 0% efficient, in fact it is a pure wasted power mode.

it many burn 100watts doing nothing at (ask you maker or RTM)

100watts is  about 10amps drain on he battery., so in 1 hour the battery is 1/2 gone. doing nothing./

so the answer is ,

1: you bought the wrong UPS.!

2: or there is no UPS better. (not doing your home work sorry)

3: or is you need to turn it off when the loads go to 0watts or program it do that automatically see #1

no inverter is efficient when it runs. for sure 0watts at load. (horrid is the word)

NO UPS stated of the 1000 made, no a clue. (they are NOT all the same ever seen 911 call center, no.

no model nor wattage spec, on it, (endless choices )

the UPS has a book and a spec.

it even (better UPS)SHOW TABLES with discharge rates per model , per battery options and by air temp and more.

A good UPS documents that and lots more. (APC is one maker of many) none stated by you.

how long was the PC turned on? at your simulated power outage, (none stated)

was the battery charged up first, ?  (UPS STATUS LITES TELL YOU THIS)

how old is this UPS (no clue here)

all UPS have battery charger and runs in FLOAT mode, when battery hits about  12.6v SOC state of charge 100%. then runs in float mode, endless. (Until needed)

draining the batteries sure does lower battery life.!!

yes the battery AND charger get hot,  varies by maker none stated.

my guess is this is your first UPS, welcome to the club.

and lesson 1,  a more expensive UPS  can be more efficient.  (in all 4 modes)$$$

off line, online, inverter mode, charge mode)

more efficient means more cost. $$$$ (going green means spending more money)

what wattage  is your UPS?<

and what was the power drain with AC LINE unplugged.  (PC drain actual) 

the first thing to do when buying any UPS is RUN TIME (this is what matters most and recovery time)

at your PCs rated power load ( gaming can be 200  watts more with top cards jus it

in just desktop mode 2D (25watts, just that)

so if you need gamimg not to die?,  you must match that load for sure. (300watts is  good guess, but I use a cheap meter to measure all PCs, (kill-o-watt or my line current meter)

That is it on UPS, I can talk all day on UPS,

Choosing good one is not easy, ask for help,  and tell expectations, (hate heat?, runtime, recover time?)

learn how and inverter works, first.

then study efficiency next.

seen here on DIY page.  well done the  basics. (I like the push buttons simulation!)

The inverter wastes lots of power with 0 watt load , all do,  Until.

• batteries that no longer have internal resistances.
• these semi conductors have magic super conductor modes, with no losses.
• and last the telsa transformers that do not waste power (all do, but some are less and are costly)
• yes there are UPS that have this cute ECO mode (options) that see you load is 0 and goes to sleep. yes.

it wastes power just like your car,

parked and running.

and idling,

efficiency 0 , 100% waste. 0 MPG. at  stop signs( notwithstanding magic of VDE variable displacement engines)

simple cure, turn the key off. (UPS off)

I have an APC back-ups pro 1000 br1000g. My problem is the same side battery keeps amping out. Sorry for the car audio lingo it’s my day job. But what I mean is both batteries read 13.45v on my Fluke multimeter, but the problem battery drops voltage rapidly if I hook anything to it. Even a small led strip will drop it from 13.45 to 7.x volts in 2 minutes. An incandescent dome light bulb from a car will barely get dim then there’s nothing left in the battery. The only thing I can think of is when my new (better) batteries get here I’m going to use a 10 AWG oxygen free ultra high strand count copper wire,  silver solder, expensive heat wrap, and zinc plated terminals. I can only imagine it being a bad connection somewhere that has the draw off balance. Any input would be appreciated!

Physically bad batteries will not hold a charge.

They are not guaranteed based on time. If they are over charged they can die in this way also.

 In the car audio world when you have multiple batteries there’s a process similar to what’s going on with my back-ups 1000. We call it back charge when multiple batteries are being fed from, and feeding the same source. Much like a dual voice coil speaker wired in series the wire lengths have to be as close as you can get them. The battery with the shortest leads will over charge before the battery with longer leads. It’s been a good ups and the #1 positive out battery doesn’t just go right out. They’ve lasted me over a year for one and a year on this last one.