E228WFP display disappears

Update on this issue - after writing this post last night, having used the monitor for approx. 2 and 1/2 hours, the display went black again with the green LED light on. The temp was about 78 degrees - not enough to cause an issue with a normal monitor. The back of the monitor was extremely hot to the touch. It appears the issue is the monitor itself - heating up and shutting down the display for some reason. When the LED power light was green, I shut it off, turned it on, display returned, only to blank out again within 5 minutes, so I shut down completely. I think the monitor is defective? I see others with issues with these same monitors posting here.  I am hoping Chris from Dell will offer some insight here in the forum. Thanks.

Bookworms,

Go ahead and get it replaced. If you only have a monitor order number, you should contact Customer Service. If your monitor was purchased tied to a Dell PC, contact Technical Support. They will need the following -
Name:
Email Address:
Shipping address:
Phone number:
Monitor Order number or PC Service Tag number if purchased with a PC:
Monitor 20 digit PPID number found on the back on a label or on the slider card on the left rear:
Reason:

Bought it through Best Buy (Dell dealer) so assume they would be the ones to replace it. I am concerned that other Dell monitors are having the same issues, and see no point to replacing this one with another with the same problems. Thanks for your reply.

resolved issue with replacement (S2309W) to be picked up at Best Buy tomorrow. They quickly agreed to replace under warranty.

Hope the new one will provide the super display properties of this one, as I have to use VGA and am concerned with the much higher resolution.

Separate thread on that issue - thanks.

We have an E228WFP (CN-0X764G-64180-88C-1GRS-A00) purchased SEP08 with the same symptoms (and I've seen a number of very similar posts for idential units purchased in the past year.)    Office environment: ~76F constant.  All power lights are on and if you look very closely you can see a shadow the active image.  Power it off, and it comes back.  10 minutes later, its gone again.  We tried both VGA and DVI ports, different cable, different workstations -- same results.  Luckily, we purchased a 3 year extended warranty.  Just sent an eMail to Warranty support.  ALSO, see other post Tags I've added (below)

Good Luck!

http://en.community.dell.com/forums/p/19287089/19527806.aspx#19527806

Another one reported here to which I replied. Thanks for the comeback!  I was lucky mine was just replaced with a different model, as I would not want another E228wfp after reading everyone else's troubles with them.

Dell is aware of this issue and all service stock has been corrected. Get it replaced. If you only have a monitor order number, you should contact Customer Service. If your monitor was purchased tied to a Dell PC, contact Technical Support. They will need the following -

Name:

Email Address:

Shipping address:

Phone number:

Monitor Order number or PC Service Tag number if purchased with a PC:

Monitor 20 digit PPID number found on the back on a label or on the slider card on the left rear:

Reason: E228WFP flat panel monitor has a green power LED light but no display

My monitor has the same issues - goes black after 10 minutes or less - but is over a year old.  As it is out of warrantee, does Dell sell parts so I can fix it myself?

handat,

We do not have monitor internal parts, all we do is exchange them while under warranty.

I have the same problem as everyone else. My Monitor does this with vga  and dvi-d cables, It does this randomly and seems to work longer if left off longer.  It is not the power supply - I don't think it is the Inverter itself  because It does not Flicker or Turn on or off  slow, dim ,blink, or any other indication that it is the transformers, lights or capacitors are going out.  My conclusion is that the problem was either in the  chips on the green side of the power supply / inverter board (and is most likely the one that controls the brightness / contrast) or the on AD board. The CCFL transformers all were in good working order, and when I was testing these the power was cut some where before because power to both transformers lost power at the same time like it was shut off by switch. It is a production line defect because it is happening to so many monitors. Bad capacitors have in all cases I've seen, made the backlight blink (except the Big one on the power supply side).  The fact that the Monitor works fine then backlight turns off suddenly and acts like nothing is wrong means that it is some where in the backlight control circuits and more likely a Bad / Defective chip (most likely the one that controls the brightness and contrast) and could  be a programming malfunction or loose solder connection (but I don't think so because it works fine for a year or two before this problem starts and because it is happening to more than ten monitors (that I know of ).  I don't have the expertise or tools to determine any thing further but I too hope that someone will find what exactly is causing this problem.  If you replace one of the boards and it fixes the problem  Please tell us which one it is.

As far as humidity I dont think it would affect it unless you have 100+ humidity.

If you take a  bright flashlight and shine it at the screen when this occures and the indicator light is green and connected to a running computer you should see the lcd Is working if not it is not this particular problem.

Also, My monitor backlight will not turn back on until power is cut and then restored .

Thanks for your comments

-Jammtek

If you replace one of the boards and it fixes the problem  Please tell us which one it is.

I am hoping for a post pointing to a faulty component, or better yet, a cold/cracked solder joint.  A board is basically 1/3 of the price of a new monitor - so you might as well buy new.

It is a same Dell is aware of this problem - but makes returns difficult.  Most businesses just buy a new one and throw the old one in the dumpster.

I cannot find a replacement board for this refurbished or new short of buying a new monitor, If you know where to get one (that English reading people can buy) it would be nice if someone just wants a new one.

I am Still in the process of finding the problem, I am fairly sure it is one of two things:

1. The "MOSFET (metal–oxide–semiconductor field-effect transistor)" (A three pronged  chip mounted to heat-sink on power supply side of board) which on my board is a "ST" Brand model P10NK70ZFP (TO220FP). I am currently awaiting a new one that I ordered from Here
2. A chip Known as a "Green Mode PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) Controller" ( That is mounted on the green side, directly under the power supply that has 8 pins. The one on my board is a "Leadtrend" Brand and model LD7575,  It took me some time to find this chip and they are a fair price (9.99+SH) but I did find someone that sells them : Here

For a description of what these do see Wikipedia's description (MOSFET and PWM controller)

Unfortunantly, I will not be able to find out which one it is on mine because of an accident while testing other components.which "smoked my PWM controller a diode and two resistors', by the way if someone has one apart I need the numbers that are on these two resistors: R912 & R913 ?  Thanks

Please reply if you have any information to help resolve this or enlightenment concerning these types of problems and how to fix them.

And just to be on the safe side : I am not responsible for anything you do to your monitor, this is for those with the Tools and Experience or dare to fix this problem on their own.

Sorry, I realize that there is a statement 'It is not the power supply" that should not be in there.

if someone has one apart I need the numbers that are on these two resistors: R912 & R913

Hello - mine is apart right now.  R912 is 100, and R913 is 1001.  This is off board PN (t) 7642laa1 Rev A)).

I thought I fixed mine, found a cracked solder joint on C801 (ballast capacitor), but still no luck.

 I noticed there are two squares silkscreened on the board.  One has a rubber piece stuck to this area.  The other one is missing.  The keeps the sheet of plastic insulator off the components to allow airflow.  I wondered if this high voltage area ran hotter than usual because it lacked proper airflow on the side without the standoff.  There are holes in the metal cover, but the plastic sheet blocks the natural convection cooling.  I assume the components have been damaged over time and now need to be replaced.  Hopefully you can determine the damaged component(s) -  (and it is the same as mine!)

I noticed the two little 8 pin IC's  (I guess these are the PWM- not confirmed since I am not home  at the moment) on the back were running very hot, I stuck on little heat sinks, but still no luck.   If these are the problem, I am not sure I will spend $20 for two, and $10 shipping.  It is a lot of money (and these parts are probably 20 cents when bought in bulk).

I found you can buy a new board at http://www.lcdrepair.us/E228WFPc-inverter-power.html, but I did read a negative post about this place (but there is always someone complaining - and people usually don't post standard expected service).  And the picture does not match my board - I have two of the large components (transformers?? - close to where the lamps plug in - this one has 4).

Newegg has a well reviewed 1080p 23" monitor for $170 - I would buy that before sinking $70 on this one (I have spent about $15 so far - may jump to 45 if I buy those IC :)