Aurora R11, wont power light flashes

by resetting the bios do you mean clear cmos setting via motherboard jumper?

upload a video of your led flash may help others see the code. but there are only a few possibilities.  no or bad ram, bad cmos or motherboard, bad gpu.  if you remove all ram, do you see two flashes of led? 

2 flashes: No memory or RAM detected.

remove all storage and usb devices.  if possible, use a simple low power video card to test.

try install only one ram in DIMM1.  test each ram individually.

added NVMe where, how? which fans changed to what?

Correctly?  I thought so, but...clearly I did something wrong. The Noctuas only came with an extender.   I had to use 4-pin splitters purchased separately.  I plugged the center piece of the splitter into the MB and the other two pieces to the fan power.

I cycled through the ram combinations including no ram with no change in the light blink rate.  I only have 2 sticks.  My gpu is a lower model but i also just unplugged power to it with no change.  I couldn't upload the video directly here so i tried making a QR code link.  For the CMOS, i didn't have instructions for jumper.  I removed the battery for 20 minutes.

I did use that connector for the push/pull.  I did fully remove that though and put it all back.  I was concerned about that CPU power plugs so I pulled them out prior to adding the new top fan.  I checked their connection again and inspected the plugs and they are fully seated. When I press the power test button on the back, all the fans begin working and I can hear the HDD spin up.  All this continues until I release the test button.

Did you plug the fans in correctly? How did you plug the push pull fans into the motherboard? Did you use any of the y-splitters that come with those Noctua's?

They should have come with this:

• Low-Noise Adaptor (L.N.A.)
• 4-pin y-cable
• 30cm extension cable

I would check the box, because that is where the Y-cables should be located.

You have to watch with 4 pin splitters, to ensure you don't get a sense signal from both fans. That's why it is highly recommended to only use the Noctua splitters because they are designed to avoid that issue.

The Y-splitter for the push/pull fans is connected to TOP_FAN motherboard header? Check that the ESP 8-pin CPU power connector did not get knocked loose working in that area. Also check all cable connections at the PSU end.

I finished the CMOS clear with no change to the symptoms.  But, is pulling the power plug from the mother board required or can I disconnect power from the PSU and then drain it?  The power connector on the MB feels like its glued into place.  Its not coming out without a fight.

Re: For the CMOS, i didn't have instructions for jumper. 

try this

The following images indicate the location of the CMOS jumper and provide a visual representation of the clearing CMOS procedure.

 

1. Disconnect the system-board power cable from the system board.
2. Remove the jumper plug from pins 217 and replace it on pins 216 (P216).
3. Wait for 5 seconds.
4. Remove the jumper plug from pins 216 and replace it on pins 217.
5. Connect the system-board power cable to the system board.

Re: is pulling the power plug from the mother board required

no need.  just disconnect power cord from psu. 

try drain power, then reconnect power cord, press small button at back of psu and power button at same time?

I added a Sabrent rocket 4 plus to the location on the motherboard.  This MB only has the one slot available.  That worked and I successfully turned it into the boot drive.  I then added an intake fan where the HDD had been, replaced the stock fan and added a push pull fan above the radiator.  All fans are Noctua NF A12x25's.  It's when I did the fan install (after the NVMe was complete and working) that the problem began.

just unplug the PSU from the wall socket or rear power connector

Completed with no change.  It acts like the BIOS doesn't exist.  With the HDMI cable plugged in, the monitor reacts as it senses the computer when I press the power test button.  I have even held the power test button for extended period of time sufficient for a full boot.

No luck on the Noctua splitters, I went ahead and order some from Amazon.  I looked closer at the ones I had and 1 of the connectors only has 3 pins going to the fan.  I will still wait for the noctua versions to be sure.