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March 28th, 2022 20:00
Dell Optiplex 5040 SFF won't POST...
Hi all. I have an Optiplex 5040 SFF, Motherboard T7D40 that was purchased in May 2017. A couple of weeks back I was using it when I heard what sounded like a tick, or click, followed by my screen going blank and the monitor reporting that there was no video signal. The fans were still running. Holding the power button down shut the PC down. The button restarted it, but the fans kept running at full speed and it never completed the POST. This time the power switch would not shut it down and I had to unplug it. Then it would immediately start each time the power plug was plugged in but would never give/make any error indication and would just continue running the fans at full speed until unplugged. I can't remember if the power button was lit or blinking but it produced no audible beep code.
I'm not a tech and don't have spare parts. The PC is pretty nice and meets needs so I figured $30-$50 per step wouldn't be unreasonable and began a parts replacement process, starting with the simplest and least expensive.
- The PSU was $40, arrived in a couple of days and -- made no difference.
- I found an identical mobo replacement on eBay that the seller said was pulled from a working machine for $39. This time it still came on as soon as it was plugged in but now it also produces a one-time beep code of 1-3-2 -- a new symptom with this mobo. The power button is blinking amber. So, I did get a change in symptoms by changing the mobo but it still will not post.
Beep code 1-3-2 is a curiosity in itself. Dell documentation says they haven't used 3 number codes since 2005 except for 1-3-2 which is a "No memory failure" code. I get the same error when the sticks are out -- that would be correct -- as when they are in -- strange that both sticks would fail simultaneously.
- As I said, removing both sticks of RAM makes no difference in the symptoms and neither does putting one in at a time in each of the 4 slots.
- I've reset the CMOS and I've disconnected everything but just the mobo and the symptoms remain the same. Tomorrow I'll replace the CR2032 coin battery but this one is reading 3.1 VDC unloaded so I don't expect anything from that, other than a fresh battery.
Previously I tried to test the on/off button by checking for continuity across the switch when depressed but I was by myself and my lead terminals were too big and I was never able to be confident that I was actually making good contact with them when depressing the switch -- just needed at least one more arm. Tomorrow I'll get some help and get a good test of the switch. I'll also try shorting pins 1-4 on the mobo header to simulate a known working switch.
That leaves the CPU (Intel i5-6500) which could be a single component that might be responsible for a failure to find the RAM, and the RAM itself, 8GB (2X4G),1600, DDR3L. I suppose there's a greater likelihood of a single component failure (CPU) than two sticks of RAM failing but, as luck would have it, it's also the most expensive replacement part. Plus, in lots and lots of years, I have never ever once had a CPU actually fail. I've had them overheat and throttle back/off but never failed. Perhaps this will be my first...
After reading this, assuming that I haven't already put you to sleep, does anyone have an idea of what I might do differently from what I have done, look at something else, or a way of getting a little more confident of what the next step should be?
Thanks in advance for whatever help you can offer,
Howard
Redmond, WA


Howard_Woodard
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April 11th, 2022 13:00
Thanks all. It was the CPU -- first one I've ever had to fail.
All working again. I appreciate everyone's help.
JOcean
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March 29th, 2022 05:00
It is possible that the click you heard was a PSU failure and if so it may have taken out the MB and the CPU. Your diagnostic steps are spot on and once you disconnected everything from the PSU except the MB then you have pretty well narrowed it down to the MB or CPU and the MB was already replaced. The memory controller is on the CPU and it is possible that is causing the beep codes. Remember it is never the CPU until it is. The new CMOS battery is worth a shot but for both MBs to have a similar problem is almost too coincidental. Keep in mind that the only common theme in all your testing is that the CPU was never replaced.
"When you have eliminated the impossible what ever remains, no matter how improbable, must be the truth".
Howard_Woodard
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March 29th, 2022 09:00
Small - no pun intended - correction. It is the MT (Medium/Mini) tower version -- not the Small Form Factor (SFF) version.
I don't think that matters with regard to this particular thread, but I want to make sure I provide the correct info.
Howard_Woodard
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March 29th, 2022 09:00
Thanks for the reply. It was looking like it was gonna be the CPU, but I thought I would throw it out here to see if anyone knew of anything else that might be the problem. Looks like my least-expensive-first troubleshooting approach might have been the exact opposite of what I needed to do in this case.
I'll think on it some more to see if I want to spend another $65-$70 on a CPU -- I can test the RAM in another machine -- or just throw in the towel on this one. I'll mark your reply as the solution and close out the thread when I decide.
Thanks again for your help.
Howard
JOcean
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March 29th, 2022 11:00
Always happy to help out! Please post again once you have decided.
bradthetechnut
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March 29th, 2022 14:00
Something that hasn't been checked or replaced is the HDD. That's the first thing a click(s) will make me think of. Malware can freeze a machine and make the HDD click away.
Does the PC even allow you to go into the F12 Boot & Diagnostics menu? From there, you'd be able to arrow down to Diagnostics and run it.
If F2 BIOS or F12 Boot & Diagnostics can't even be accessed at startup, that PC might truly be a jinx. Being able to access those menus doesn't depend as many parts as it does the MB.
If you try to access those menus, at startup, be sure to immediately and repeatedly press F2 or F12 and not wait for Dell logo or keyboard light.
I only mentioned BIOS to see if you can access it.
You might also try the HDD/SSD in a known working PC if you have a another. Or try another bootable drive in the jinx PC.
If it were the PSU, I think it would be more of a pop than a click. If it were a capacitor in the PSU blowing, then you might see or smell smoke. And then it would be pretty dead.
Awesome job troubleshooting beforehand.
Howard_Woodard
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March 30th, 2022 18:00
Thanks. I didn't test the HDD explicitly but did indirectly when I disconnected its power and data cables with no change in symptoms. I never gets through the POST so I can do any of the Setup/BIOS kinds of things.
I also tested it with a RAM stick from a working PC today -- no change.
I'm gonna make a couple of bids on a replacement CPU on eBay and will let you folks know when I get it in and tested. At this point I'm fairly confident that I have ruled out everything but the CPU.
But still ... fingers crossed.
bradthetechnut
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April 11th, 2022 13:00
Glad you got it working. : ) CPU failure is definitely rarer.