Just got a BSOD. I think a case migration will have to do. Ill keep this thread posted when I do. By chance do you have a link for the cable extensions for the PSU?
You should not order extension cables until you know which cables you need and how long they need to be. You have to use the Dell OEM cables to connect to the PSU. Power supply cables are not interchangeable. You would most likey need an extension cable for the ATX 24-pin mobo power cable, and perhaps the EPS 8-pin CPU power cable. Extension cables come in a variety of shapes, sizes and prices, from pre-fab . . . to custom
And since this is OEM it will not fit in another case.
At this point I would suggest a new retail motherboard and move everything over to a new case, with a new PSU. Just to get rid of the OEM stuff and save yourself a whole bunch of headaches further down the road.
While a new PSU is a good recommendation and would provide more optionality . . . the Aurora R10 PSU is standard ATX format and can be moved to another case.
And I forgot to add that on some configurations, like my R10, the 8 PIN EPS is only wired as a 6 PIN. So if you purchase a retail motherboard that requires an 8 PIN you likely will run into issues.
I just think it's much less of a headache to get rid of it...
Penny for your thoughts on these items? I didn't feel safe with an open-case style for the PC case. I might not be able to get the parts till next year. Until then I will keep the side panel open and blow a fan towards the inside to stop it from overheating.
Hey. I decided to try to salvage my case by buying 2 more Noctua fans for the front and the h60 (hope it makes better contact with the CPU). I saw on the forum people removed the 3.5 HDD caddy and their temps were lower. Any thoughts on this?
It is not just remove the 3.5" HDD caddy, but replace it with an upper front intake fan. Anything to improve air flow in the Aurora chassis is helpful. This should feed some fresh intake air to your radiator, although the PSU housing is still a major obstruction.
Yes, I intend to replace the front fan and add another fan into the caddy. I want to use Noctuas (waiting for Cyber Monday.) The H60 is out of stock. I will rally through with the Kraken until then.
I wanted to ask you a question. Instead of the BSOD, my computer freezes on a black screen (some pixelized artifacts from the game remain on screen) and with a loud noise coming from the speakers before restarting. This happens after two to three hours of playing the game. I read on Reddit that someone was experiencing the same problem with their R10 and they stated that it was a faulty GPU. Current temps while playing are 85-88 for CPU and 61-65 on GPU. What do you think may be the cause of this? The CPU?
I can't really say for sure. Both CPU and GPU temps are on the high end . . . which is why you are pursuing a better thermal solution. I don't recall which Ryzen processor you have or the specific TDP.
OK, I am not as familiar with AMD processors, but that is a 65 watt CPU with a Tjmax of 95C . . . so you are probably thermal throttling at 88C. With those two components you should be able to get your thermals under control . . . unless perhaps you live right on the equator and ambient temps are very high.
slk77
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November 15th, 2022 13:00
Just got a BSOD. I think a case migration will have to do. Ill keep this thread posted when I do. By chance do you have a link for the cable extensions for the PSU?
ProfessorW00d
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November 15th, 2022 15:00
You should not order extension cables until you know which cables you need and how long they need to be. You have to use the Dell OEM cables to connect to the PSU. Power supply cables are not interchangeable. You would most likey need an extension cable for the ATX 24-pin mobo power cable, and perhaps the EPS 8-pin CPU power cable. Extension cables come in a variety of shapes, sizes and prices, from pre-fab . . . to custom
Vanadiel
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November 15th, 2022 16:00
And since this is OEM it will not fit in another case.
At this point I would suggest a new retail motherboard and move everything over to a new case, with a new PSU. Just to get rid of the OEM stuff and save yourself a whole bunch of headaches further down the road.
ProfessorW00d
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November 15th, 2022 18:00
While a new PSU is a good recommendation and would provide more optionality . . . the Aurora R10 PSU is standard ATX format and can be moved to another case.
Vanadiel
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November 15th, 2022 18:00
Yes but you might run into a cable length issue, and whoever designed that PSU really liked 6 pin connectors on the PSU side...
That and it does not come with all the modular cables...
ProfessorW00d
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November 15th, 2022 19:00
. . . all correct.
Vanadiel
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November 16th, 2022 03:00
And I forgot to add that on some configurations, like my R10, the 8 PIN EPS is only wired as a 6 PIN. So if you purchase a retail motherboard that requires an 8 PIN you likely will run into issues.
I just think it's much less of a headache to get rid of it...
ProfessorW00d
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November 16th, 2022 05:00
Looks like a good start for much improved thermals!
slk77
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November 16th, 2022 05:00
Ok, I will get a new PSU. These are the parts I am thinking of getting.
PSU
Case
Motherboard
Penny for your thoughts on these items? I didn't feel safe with an open-case style for the PC case. I might not be able to get the parts till next year. Until then I will keep the side panel open and blow a fan towards the inside to stop it from overheating.
slk77
40 Posts
0
November 24th, 2022 18:00
Hey. I decided to try to salvage my case by buying 2 more Noctua fans for the front and the h60 (hope it makes better contact with the CPU). I saw on the forum people removed the 3.5 HDD caddy and their temps were lower. Any thoughts on this?
ProfessorW00d
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2.4K Posts
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November 24th, 2022 20:00
It is not just remove the 3.5" HDD caddy, but replace it with an upper front intake fan. Anything to improve air flow in the Aurora chassis is helpful. This should feed some fresh intake air to your radiator, although the PSU housing is still a major obstruction.
slk77
40 Posts
0
November 25th, 2022 06:00
Yes, I intend to replace the front fan and add another fan into the caddy. I want to use Noctuas (waiting for Cyber Monday.) The H60 is out of stock. I will rally through with the Kraken until then.
I wanted to ask you a question. Instead of the BSOD, my computer freezes on a black screen (some pixelized artifacts from the game remain on screen) and with a loud noise coming from the speakers before restarting. This happens after two to three hours of playing the game. I read on Reddit that someone was experiencing the same problem with their R10 and they stated that it was a faulty GPU. Current temps while playing are 85-88 for CPU and 61-65 on GPU. What do you think may be the cause of this? The CPU?
ProfessorW00d
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2.4K Posts
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November 25th, 2022 10:00
I can't really say for sure. Both CPU and GPU temps are on the high end . . . which is why you are pursuing a better thermal solution. I don't recall which Ryzen processor you have or the specific TDP.
slk77
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November 25th, 2022 11:00
It's a 5600x and an RTX 3060.
ProfessorW00d
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November 25th, 2022 11:00
OK, I am not as familiar with AMD processors, but that is a 65 watt CPU with a Tjmax of 95C . . . so you are probably thermal throttling at 88C. With those two components you should be able to get your thermals under control . . . unless perhaps you live right on the equator and ambient temps are very high.