On the 2018 H60, the pump is SATA powered, so there is no way for the PC/BIOS/AWCC to change the speed settings for the pump. The tach connection is 3PIN but 1 wire (so 1 PIN). All it does is report RPM, the PC can't change anything on the pump via voltage regulation because the power wires are connected to the PSU, not the header.
The OEM fan is around 4500 RPM, but the pump maxes out at 4000. That's why it is showing 90%. On older revisions it would do that with the OEM pump too (show 90%), but then they did a bios update for some systems to change it to "pump running".
So plug the 1 wire into the CPU fan header and you're all set. As an aside, I think that's what the instructions on the Corsair manual state too (in older models you'd have to disregard the Corsair instructions and plug it into the Pump fan header like you noted.).
Not sure if this helps but I had installed H80i V2 (I have since removed it) and I had to plug the pump into the CPU fan header (I was getting a bios error with it plugged into the pump fan header). I have no personal experience with the H60, although it seems to be a popular upgrade with the machines ordered without liquid cooling. For reference my pc was originally equipped with liquid cooling.
Thanks. I assumed moving the tach to CPU header would halt the error. But I was a little concerned whether or not there would be any system issues letting it "think" it was air cooled.
Oh, it is the CPU FAN error which is thrown. I was lead to believe that there is a circuit made between the 1st and 3rd screws on the VRM heatsink when it is secured to the mobo - if this circuit is present then the BIOS knows not to look for CPU FAN. But the current behavior suggests as you say - BIOS doesn't see power connection from PUMP header to pump (because H60 is 3pin with power from SATA). This is why it expects a CPU FAN.
But I'm surprised because I know a lot of folks have installed the H60 2018 version and aren't complaining about this error.
Wrt H60 being an "upgrade" - I'm understanding that the OEM radiator and the H60 radiator are both from asetek, and have similar volume and surface area.
However, the H60 allows me to use SL120s in push/pull configuration. I'm finding the system quieter at idle with same idle temps (40s) and 20C cooler when running a gaming load (e.g. Cyberpunk 2077).
I know typically we look at GPU thermals here but, the CPU has to "feed" the GPU or it's the bottleneck. And this configuration is allowing for better performance (never hitting 84-100C means no CPU throttle).
Great question. Can't fit two fans with OEM. Two SL120s plus the H60 rad fit perfectly into the fan/rad cage. Both OEM rad and fan are thicker than aforementioned Corsair config. Both rads are from asetek, I believe, and have different dimensions but similar surface area.
My system is now much quieter at idle and temps under load are much better, preventing CPU throttle.
Sounds like I need to just stop being OCD and plug the pump tach into the CPU FAN header and call it good.
The OEM rad and H60 rad should be the same as far as thickness (27~30) mm. It is the OEM Nidec fan on the radiator that adds the extra 8mm and prevents you from closing the case with a second 120mm fan. You can slap two 25mm x 120mm case fans and use them with the OEM radiator in push pull. You just need to add four 6/32 x 1.25" machine screws for the top fan.
@r72019 , much appreciated. I didn't want to change the pump speed. I just wanted to make sure everything was working as expected instead of just assuming as such by connecting the pump tach to CPU FAN instead of PUMP.
Sounds like I'm good. And you must be right about the OEM rad - observational bias during the AIO replacement probably contributed to thinking it was "taller" or thicker than the H60.
So it sounds like I could have just purchased the two SL120 pros but, I'm not mad about having a backup pump and rad for anything unexpected.
Thanks again. And thanks for covering this topic in such depth, helping so many aurora owners with different configurations in this thread and others with no complaints against redundancy.
Man o man this has helped me out so badly I was getting the stupid bios error and finally did this and no more errors on the bios but I get idle temps that fluctuate from 33 to 45 buts it’s only for like a quick second not sure why but I hope that’s okay
Just curious I also am installing h60 in my r11, what Mobo did you install this on? Mine is a lga1200 do I need to remove Mobo to install mounting bracket? I'ma pc noob and any suggestions would help
Hi, I currently did the Corsair H60 install, replaced all fans with Noctua 12x25 PWM, and added the VRM heatsink due to removing the OME air cooler. I have 2 fans as a push/pull config on the radiator attached to the TOP fan header and 2 fans in the front as inlets attached to FRONT fan header both using the Noctua Y-splitters. I have the H60 that has a SATA power cable with a 3 pin ( but only 1 wire) that I have plugged in to the CPU_FAN header. I am getting the error message 2000-0511. After the test every thing runs fine and temps look good but in ACC all fans show they are running the same temp even though they are running at different speeds. Any help would be apricated .
PS- I know this is an old post, but thought I would try.
r72019
6 Professor
•
5.3K Posts
3
January 2nd, 2021 21:00
@btcorrad
On the 2018 H60, the pump is SATA powered, so there is no way for the PC/BIOS/AWCC to change the speed settings for the pump. The tach connection is 3PIN but 1 wire (so 1 PIN). All it does is report RPM, the PC can't change anything on the pump via voltage regulation because the power wires are connected to the PSU, not the header.
The OEM fan is around 4500 RPM, but the pump maxes out at 4000. That's why it is showing 90%. On older revisions it would do that with the OEM pump too (show 90%), but then they did a bios update for some systems to change it to "pump running".
So plug the 1 wire into the CPU fan header and you're all set. As an aside, I think that's what the instructions on the Corsair manual state too (in older models you'd have to disregard the Corsair instructions and plug it into the Pump fan header like you noted.).
DrkHwk
1 Rookie
•
71 Posts
0
January 2nd, 2021 11:00
Not sure if this helps but I had installed H80i V2 (I have since removed it) and I had to plug the pump into the CPU fan header (I was getting a bios error with it plugged into the pump fan header). I have no personal experience with the H60, although it seems to be a popular upgrade with the machines ordered without liquid cooling. For reference my pc was originally equipped with liquid cooling.
DrkHwk
1 Rookie
•
71 Posts
0
January 2nd, 2021 12:00
FWIW I was able to verify the pump speed @100% with corsair software (2800ish RPM for the V2) while in AWCC it was only reading 30%.
btcorrad
24 Posts
0
January 2nd, 2021 14:00
Thanks. I assumed moving the tach to CPU header would halt the error. But I was a little concerned whether or not there would be any system issues letting it "think" it was air cooled.
btcorrad
24 Posts
0
January 2nd, 2021 18:00
Oh, it is the CPU FAN error which is thrown. I was lead to believe that there is a circuit made between the 1st and 3rd screws on the VRM heatsink when it is secured to the mobo - if this circuit is present then the BIOS knows not to look for CPU FAN. But the current behavior suggests as you say - BIOS doesn't see power connection from PUMP header to pump (because H60 is 3pin with power from SATA). This is why it expects a CPU FAN.
But I'm surprised because I know a lot of folks have installed the H60 2018 version and aren't complaining about this error.
Wrt H60 being an "upgrade" - I'm understanding that the OEM radiator and the H60 radiator are both from asetek, and have similar volume and surface area.
However, the H60 allows me to use SL120s in push/pull configuration. I'm finding the system quieter at idle with same idle temps (40s) and 20C cooler when running a gaming load (e.g. Cyberpunk 2077).
I know typically we look at GPU thermals here but, the CPU has to "feed" the GPU or it's the bottleneck. And this configuration is allowing for better performance (never hitting 84-100C means no CPU throttle).
Thanks again for helping me to think this out.
btcorrad
24 Posts
0
January 2nd, 2021 19:00
Great question. Can't fit two fans with OEM. Two SL120s plus the H60 rad fit perfectly into the fan/rad cage. Both OEM rad and fan are thicker than aforementioned Corsair config. Both rads are from asetek, I believe, and have different dimensions but similar surface area.
My system is now much quieter at idle and temps under load are much better, preventing CPU throttle.
Sounds like I need to just stop being OCD and plug the pump tach into the CPU FAN header and call it good.
Much appreciated discussion.
r72019
6 Professor
•
5.3K Posts
1
January 2nd, 2021 21:00
Follow up to my last post. My PC used to show 90% too, now it just shows this:
r72019
6 Professor
•
5.3K Posts
1
January 2nd, 2021 21:00
The OEM rad and H60 rad should be the same as far as thickness (27~30) mm. It is the OEM Nidec fan on the radiator that adds the extra 8mm and prevents you from closing the case with a second 120mm fan. You can slap two 25mm x 120mm case fans and use them with the OEM radiator in push pull. You just need to add four 6/32 x 1.25" machine screws for the top fan.
btcorrad
24 Posts
1
January 2nd, 2021 23:00
@r72019 , much appreciated. I didn't want to change the pump speed. I just wanted to make sure everything was working as expected instead of just assuming as such by connecting the pump tach to CPU FAN instead of PUMP.
Sounds like I'm good. And you must be right about the OEM rad - observational bias during the AIO replacement probably contributed to thinking it was "taller" or thicker than the H60.
So it sounds like I could have just purchased the two SL120 pros but, I'm not mad about having a backup pump and rad for anything unexpected.
Thanks again. And thanks for covering this topic in such depth, helping so many aurora owners with different configurations in this thread and others with no complaints against redundancy.
btcorrad
24 Posts
2
January 3rd, 2021 08:00
OK. AWCC shows me ~90% fan w the 3pin, single wire tach from the H60 pump connected to CPU FAN header and system boots without error.
All is well. Thanks for the info to allay my concerns over not having things connected "precisely".
Love this community!
cryptichack3r
2 Posts
0
May 22nd, 2021 21:00
Man o man this has helped me out so badly I was getting the stupid bios error and finally did this and no more errors on the bios but I get idle temps that fluctuate from 33 to 45 buts it’s only for like a quick second not sure why but I hope that’s okay
GreaseGorila
1 Message
0
July 15th, 2021 20:00
Just curious I also am installing h60 in my r11, what Mobo did you install this on? Mine is a lga1200 do I need to remove Mobo to install mounting bracket? I'ma pc noob and any suggestions would help
Luispro
2 Posts
0
November 10th, 2021 16:00
I have the same issue did you found out what was wrong ? Im waiting for my heatsink i ghink thats the issue
nicky1270
1 Message
0
May 12th, 2022 19:00
Hi, I currently did the Corsair H60 install, replaced all fans with Noctua 12x25 PWM, and added the VRM heatsink due to removing the OME air cooler. I have 2 fans as a push/pull config on the radiator attached to the TOP fan header and 2 fans in the front as inlets attached to FRONT fan header both using the Noctua Y-splitters. I have the H60 that has a SATA power cable with a 3 pin ( but only 1 wire) that I have plugged in to the CPU_FAN header. I am getting the error message 2000-0511. After the test every thing runs fine and temps look good but in ACC all fans show they are running the same temp even though they are running at different speeds. Any help would be apricated .
PS- I know this is an old post, but thought I would try.