Start a Conversation

Solved!

Go to Solution

8799

October 19th, 2018 06:00

Aurora-R6, Pump Failure

Hello I have an Alienware Aurora R6 the system has been running amazing for over a year, today I rebooted the computer and upon reboot I get a black screen that says pump failure press F1 to continue or F2 to enter bios. Ive read over the forums here and tried updating command center. Issue persisted. I also opened the case and verified everything was clean, I switched the power from PUMP FAN jumper to CPU FAN jumper rebooted and now the black screen shows CPU FAN FAILURE if I press F1 I can get into windows and open command center it now shows that the cpu is running at normal temps again. Where as before it would show the cpu running at 90-100c just sitting idle. I think the jumper may be bad. I contacted dell support and was told they’d call me back In 48 business hours. After waiting on hold for over 45min to get in touch with someone. Does anyone know if the CPU FAN and the PUMP FAN jumper run on the same voltage and/or will this hurt anything to run the pump on the CPU from the fan jumper instead.

 

October 19th, 2018 20:00

SOOOO I resolved the issue! Shutdown the computer then removed the pump from processor, gave it a little tap with the butt of the screwdriver reattached to the processor then booted up the machine and TADA no more Pump failure errors and CPU temps were back down to 23C sitting Idle. Put CPU under load (about 80%) Never goes above about 40C!

 

 

9 Legend

 • 

33.3K Posts

October 19th, 2018 07:00

I can't directly answer your question, but on my ASUS ROG (Gamer) motherboard they have the same voltage (and power).  

Did you try just reseating the pump connector rather than moving it?  (Reseat - unplug then plug back in). 

If you didn't try the reseating, plug it back into the pump connector and see if it works.

 

October 19th, 2018 07:00

I did try reseating it, but still gives Pump Failure and temperature stays at 90C sitting idle. Switching to the CPU Fan Jumper gives CPU Fan Failure (i think this is due to it being a pump not a fan) but it keeps the CPU at about 23C. 

9 Legend

 • 

33.3K Posts

October 19th, 2018 08:00

Then it sounds like a motherboard problem.  Good thought on reseating, too bad it didn't work.

 

October 19th, 2018 10:00

Tesla,

I agree with you, with ePSA and the pump plugged into the PUMP FAN jumper (original location) it fails with error 2000-0511 and CPU overheats to 90C just sitting idle.

 

with it connected to CPU Fan Jumper I run ePSA and it gives me CPU fan failure error 2000-0511 but when I boot into windows CPU is sitting at 23C lit it normally should. 

 

I'm almost sure the jumper for the PUMP FAN is bad, which means I would need to get the Mobo replaced and be out of a computer for about 7-12 days. I was wondering if using the CPU FAN Jumper would allow me to use the machine until the replacement mobo comes if they will send one I so can replace on my own. (I dont know if they will do this or not yet) waiting on a call from Dell technicians 

8 Wizard

 • 

17K Posts

October 19th, 2018 10:00

It should be plugged-in where it was originally. Remember that it worked there for about a year.

You can diagnose Liquid-Cooler with ePSA.

https://www.dell.com/community/Alienware-Desktops/My-Aurora-R6-The-Adventure-Continues/m-p/6063705/highlight/true#M3130

798 Posts

October 19th, 2018 12:00

 

The connections for the OEM liquid cooler should be fan to TOP FAN, CPU FAN left open, pump to PUMP.

You can leave the CPU FAN header open and won’t get an error.  Leave either of the other two headers open and you will get a fan error at startup.

Pump is meant to run at a fixed speed at 12V.  CPU FAN header varies voltage to the fan with CPU temps for a stock cooler.  So if you are using the CPU FAN header short term you will have to monitor the temps or perhaps you can adjust the voltage to get more cooling if necessary.

You can also run direct to the PSU if you have an adapter. 

8 Wizard

 • 

17K Posts

October 19th, 2018 12:00


@Hypnotikfox wrote:

with ePSA and the pump plugged into the PUMP FAN jumper (original location) it fails with error 2000-0511 and CPU overheats to 90C just sitting idle.

 


Then I would say bad pump. Replace (Asetek OEM) Liquid Cooler and re-test.

798 Posts

October 19th, 2018 13:00

If you have the pump connected to the CPU FAN header it should be able to read the RPM, does it show the pump is working by giving you a RPM number from that header?  I forget what the OEM stock cooler RPM number is but I think it is ~5000 RPM on the monitor at 12V fixed. 

October 19th, 2018 13:00

Yes it does show the RPM's when connected to the Fan Header and it keeps the CPU cool (or atleast thats what command center shows) I don't think its the pump, I think its the header on the Motherboard personally.

8 Wizard

 • 

17K Posts

October 19th, 2018 21:00


@Hypnotikfox wrote:

1. removed the pump from processor, gave it a little tap with the butt of the screwdriver reattached to the processor then booted up the machine and TADA no more Pump failure errors and CPU temps were back down to 23C sitting Idle.

2. Put CPU under load (about 80%) Never goes above about 40C!

  


1. Told-ya it was the pump. :Stickouttongue: Good work. :Yes:

2. Nice. :Beer:

1 Message

October 25th, 2018 14:00

say thank you first! believe or not, I had exactly the same issue this morning. tapped the pump before, wouldn't work. warranty expired less than a month. remove and reinstall the pump just simply fixed it. dont know why. 

8 Wizard

 • 

17K Posts

October 25th, 2018 14:00


@EMFunc wrote:

say thank you first! believe or not, I had exactly the same issue this morning. tapped the pump before, wouldn't work. warranty expired less than a month. remove and reinstall the pump just simply fixed it. dont know why. 


Good work. :Yes:

Yeah, it's just a low-powered impeller inside there (very similar to a brush-less fan). Maybe just a particle or some slight clogging would stop it. 

While removed, you can test it with voltage (if you know how). IIRC, it runs at about 5000rpm (constant rpm) .

People have opened Asetek-made LC before for cleaning, but not sure about this particular (newer) model. There are pics here somewhere.

 

1 Message

March 20th, 2023 21:00

I'd just like to advise all who experience this problem that, definitely and confirming OP's suggestion, giving some "love taps" to the liquid cooling pump assembly on the Aurora R6 (perhaps other models too) does indeed work.

I received the "pump failure" error myself on my Alienware Aurora 6 and had actually just left it as such for a while until I had a chance to spend some time to work on it. I just avoided any serious gaming on it for that time.

What did the trick was taking a small flashlight, with about the weight of standard screwdriver handle, and tapping 4 sides of the piece that screws down on to the CPU with the two hoses going into it and the white alien logo on it which I'll call the "puck". I first removed power from the computer of course along with the black power cable coming from the puck going in to the motherboard "pump fan" port, removed the 4 screws holding it on to the CPU, held it up out of the case by the two posts by the hoses, and knocked it a few times on the sides of the puck... out from both cheeks and the chin of the alien and then also a few times on top of the puck:on the alien's face. I happened to have some CPU thermal paste on hand so I applied it before screwing the puck back down on the CPU, reconnecting the pump fan power cable, connecting power, and attempting boot up. When I powered on my R6, I heard sputter I hadn't heard before, the sputter smoothed out, and then VOILA!... a quick boot up to windows login!!! I checked the Alienware Command Center and verified the CPU temp was nominal.

Now the knocks I applied were about half strength hammer knocks, not too soft not too hard, enough to hear the hollow of the plastic casing in the next room let's say force enough to jar whatever components needed a knocking about inside.

Prior to that I had actually tried smaller taps with a small size screw driver with a boot up to no avail, and I also tried taking the whole pump/fan assembly out (pain in the tuchus), blowing all the dust out and around the fan and tapping around that upper assembly, boot up and no dice. Maybe all that prior helped, but I seriously think if I just tried some significant knocks on the puck at the outset it would have done the trick alone, although it's nice that I cleaned up the caked dust too.

I'm so glad I stayed persistent on it as the next step was to not mess around with it anymore, bite the bullet, and order a new pump/fan assembly from ebay.

No Events found!

Top