Aurora R8, Corsair H60

@KoopaR8 

Yes, CPU fan is pump speed (rpm) obviously, since you no longer have a CPU fan.

Typically reported at 100%. Speed should be around 5K rpm, I believe. What are you seeing?

36C idle is OK for 78F (25.6C) ambient. What thermal paste are you using?

So I was just playing a game for the first time and Valorant was going to 48C to 55C.

Last time on air cooling it was around 70C.

Current idle temps are 38C-40C. I feel like idle temps should be lower? Or are those good temps?

@KoopaR8   Current idle temps are 38C-40C. I feel like idle temps should be lower? Or are those good temps?

If you are not 100% comfortable with your thermal paste application, it will not hurt to give it another shot.

This is idle temps at 22.5C ambient, but my computer has somewhat of an 'open air' concept 

Also, RAM and GPU are liquid cooled.

@KoopaR8    Pump is connected to Pump header. and the y split is connected to TOP FAN, and FRONT is FRONT FAN.

Good. Those connections appear to be correct. Did you get a PWM Y-splitter? If so, there should be one 4-pin connector and one 3-pin connector. Which of your radiator fans is connected to the 4-pin connector?

I would not be too concerned about the 86%. What is the CPU fan (pump) rpm reading?

@KoopaR8   I have the radiator sandwich with 1 ML120 PRO LED and the stock Corsair H60 included fan. 

OK, if you are not getting a start-up error with that set-up in an Aurora R8, there must have been a BIOS/firmware update that resolved that problem.

So since you have a sandwich, you must have a fan Y-splitter adapter. To which mobo header is the Y-splitter connected? Pump should be connected to PUMP header; CPU FAN header should be 'empty'. Front fan to FRONT FAN.

Thermal paste is Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut and I did the spread method. I also refitted the H60 once after I put the thermal paste and screwed it in. I was going to repaste after the refitting but I never ran the PC and it was just minutes after I put the thermal paste.

This should not be a problem. However, like I said before, a re-paste cannot hurt (gets you practice).

command center shows me CPU FAN and TOP FAN and FRONT FAN

I have custom curves on TOP FAN and FRONT FAN.

On my current profile I have Custom curves set to start at 50% and end at 70%. I read somewhere around here that the ML120 PROS don't work after going above 70%?

CPU FAN is auto and its doesn't change from 86% sometimes goes to 87%.

How do I see the RPM? It doesn't show me.

I have the radiator sandwich with 1 ML120 PRO LED and the stock Corsair H60 included fan. 

Thermal paste is Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut and I did the spread method. I also refitted the H60 once after I put the thermal paste and screwed it in. I was going to repaste after the refitting but I never ran the PC and it was just minutes after I put the thermal paste.

It doesn't show RPM. and the splitter I have has 2 4 pin connections. Its a Rosewill Y Splitter from amazon

im on bios 1.0.6 

Pump is connected to Pump header. and the y split is connected to TOP FAN, and FRONT is FRONT FAN.

Should I change the CPU fan to a curve at 100%? I did that and it still stays locked at 86% so I just left it at auto.

It's there in the top Amazon review:

"The RPM sense line is connected to both splitter ends. IMHO...this is not correct as you cannot combine multiple fan RPM readings to one motherboard fan connector. This is easy to fix as you just need to pick one fan connector as the master, and cut the sense pin wire and remove the sense pin from the other. You actually can get by with just cutting the wire...removing the sense pin makes it easy to identify which is master vs slave. Easy to get access to the wires as the cable end boots slide back easily. Pin pulls out with a needle nose pliers after you have cut the wire. In my case, the sense pin wire was orange. The sense pin is easy to find..with the split connector end facing you and the plug guide slot on top, the sense pin should be the second pin from the left. If you not sure, look at other splitters on Amazon...most of the others that I seen have the pin removed. Other than that, good quality and works just fine! I picked the Rosewill cables because I've been quite happy with Rosewill products in the past."

@KoopaR8    HWMonitor just shows the GPU fans. I can't find the TOP and FRONT fans

. . . and that may also be due to information overload, with two 4-pin connectors on your Y-splitter cable. You should consider getting a proper Y-splitter, with one 4-pin and one 3-pin connector. Keep in mind that this may result in the start-up error, because you do not have the proper fan set-up. But it appears with that splitter cable, you will be getting bogus info readouts.

HWMonitor just shows the GPU fans. I can't find the TOP and FRONT fans

@r72019   Interesting, so it seems the ml120 pro led working here may be due to having the rpm wire connected for both fans on both ends of the y splitter, not a bios update. 

Yes, that may be exactly what is going on . . . here, and in other threads where we thought it may have been a BIOS update.

What application does @KoopaR8  need so he can see fan RPM, particularly the CPU fan (pump speed) at around 5000 rpm?

Should I buy another cable? I have the PWM Rosewill Y split cable from amazon. Both 4 Pins. Or Do I just snip a cable from one connector?

@KoopaR8    the splitter I have has 2 4 pin connections. Its a Rosewill Y Splitter from amazon

  now that is peculiar to me. 

It doesn't show RPM

OK, sorry, I don't have AWCC.  Can you install MSI Afterburner or Cupid HWMonitor and see if you can get some rpm readings.

It's a common mistake mixing up HWMonitor (easy to use tool) and HWInfo (not so easy to use tool).