Yeah looking at my 2080ti, the cooling setup on the card itself is not great. But that's probably the fact that it was a brand new card at the time. Only has one small fan which has to really rev up to cool it during high load.
I wish they had offered water-cooling on the card as well. I would have paid the extra for that.
I don’t know if you ended up returning your PC or not. I am replying so that hopefully I can help everyone have the same result I have had over the last two days. I read through this entire thread and was freaking out, as I had already bought my Aurora R8 and immediately experienced the same thing. I considered returning it and just calling it good. I saw a couple of guys say that they replaced the fans and that it worked great for them. I ordered the fans that they recommended, but they have not come in yet... Dell isn’t the quickest at shipping things out. So last night in command center, I made a new thermal profile that goes like this... CPU fan manual control 70% and top and front fans unchanged.. simple enough. My PC hasn’t sounded like a jet engine one time since I did it. The CPU fan is small and quiet, so the noise from that is peaceful compared to the noise from the front fan. I should mention that I also have the PhisX setting on the RTX card only, as I saw somebody recommend that too. I am still planning on replacing the front and top fan just because I think the blue LED will be a cool addition. My CPU is maintaining 58-65 Celsius and my GPU is a cool 48 Celsius with these settings. I have only tried this while playing Fortnite. I hope this helps out at least one person!
I have an i7 8700k and the GeForce RTX 2070. I ordered the ML120 pro LED fans from Corsair. So hopefully I don’t have any compatibility issues when I install them. I can post pictures once I get the fans in but for the most part my Insides will look pretty standard. Also yes it’s air cooled CPU. The only issue that I have with the setup that I described is that the command center is just bad. Sometimes after booting up you have to change the thermal setting to something else like balanced, wait a few seconds and then switch back to the one I created for it to start working properly.
Yeah, it can be a pain to take it out. But the Fan is attached to the Radiator the same way it would be attached to a case. So it's removable, Just harder to get at. I took mine out.
If you go through the trouble of getting at it, someone mentioned it might be a good idea to add a fan to the top part of radiator as well. If I ever take mine apart again, I will definite be doing that.
Does changing both front and top fans apply to liquid cooled R8 also? Looking at the service manual, it implies that the top fan is part of the liquid cooling assembly. Of course, I'm being lazy and didn't want to pull things apart in my computer to confirm. Would appreciate it if someone here can confirm that I can actually take out the fan blowing at the condenser and replace it with a better fan.
I was debating whether to pair different high pressure and high airflow fans in the case but looks like the ML120 pro offers both high airflow and pressure so that takes out the guesswork.
So that's what the "push-pull fans" comment was all about. Thanks!
I know it sounds strange to post this here but my problem was due to the fans being underloaded. I can still hear them fans ramping up but they never got louder than my GPU fan when the GPU fan RPM was maxed out at 3500. So I did some investigating with AWCC + Unigine + Afterburner. Turns out that with GPU at 80C which is the thermal limit, my R8 case was detecting ~50C for front and top fans. Front fan is around 26% and top is 35% of speed. So that explained why my case fans never sounded loud. When I manually pushed the fans to 50%, boy, were they loud!
Some sharing that hopefully helps some on this thread:
1. AWCC, even with curve tuning, on same curves, will always create negative pressure in the case. This means the front fan will run ~10% slower than the top fan.
2. Creating custom curves for case fans reduces my GPU temps from by up to 5C on same voltage and frequency. Between negative and positive pressures, I found negative pressure to give better cooling in my case.
3. I created a profile in AWCC called "Quiet" where fans only turn on >70C. When paired with my GPU fan that turns off below 60C, it is as silent as my office laptop.
4. If your fans ramp up suddenly on the most mundane tasks in Windows, do not rule out the possibility of a faulty component or thermal paste application. I was lucky to avoid this on my R8 but ran into this issue on an Optiplex AIO where the 1050 GPU die wasn't connected to the heat spreader properly. It took me 3 phone calls to Dell and insisting that a 9FPS DX11 on their SupportAssist test does not qualify as a "pass" for a discrete GPU when the integrated Intel GPU scored 20FPS.
When under fusion on the left is a thermometer. That is //thermal profiles. That is where on each fan you can select the advanced option and choose Fixed. Adjust it there and it will ask you to save the profile. Then under the home tab the ///system settings are at the bottom. Change the thermal profile to the one that you created.
The Corsair ML120 Pro fans arrived today and I got down to installing them. Been reading the manual earlier in the day and it seemed to me that the top fan removal and replacement looked simple; didn't need CPU cooler and condenser removal. So I started out with the front fan, pretty simple:
New fan fits nicely in casing bracket.
Moving on to the top fan. This should be a piece of...
Where are the screws?!
Ok, I know what you guys meant now that it's a pain to replace the top fan. Abort mission for today because I don't have thermal paste to reapply before mounting the cooler back on the CPU.
So I thought, good enough with 1 fan for now. Plugged in my graphics card, closed the chassis, power on and... "No Displayport Input Detected". Must be some loose cables, checked everything, still no display. No funny beeps whatsoever, all fans running properly. Drats, did I kill my graphics card? Tried out the motherboard's DP output. Still nothing. Did I kill my motherboard? Ok, maybe Dell tuned in on our thread and tweaked even more BIOS to the point that even the ML120s don't work anymore. Time to be a good customer and use everything from Dell.
Popped back in old fan, plugged in graphics card, power on... Blank screen! At this point, I was thinking it's time to surrender and get in the customer service queue. Should I make sure I have every single factory shipped part installed before calling them? What if they said my meddling with the fan void the warranty? If I told them that some forum members on this thread did the same mod, would it get them in trouble?
Thought, maybe just check the DP cable one more time. This time, I pushed the end nearer to the monitor harder than usual and "click" it traveled more into the socket. Screen came back on. DUH!!!! Hurray, I don't have to call customer service tonight!
Drama aside, with only 1 fan replaced, I can hear some audible difference. Like some of you said, it isn't that the Corsair fan is totally quiet, but it has a more tolerable sound to it. This is especially true when ramping up to 50%. I could never set the stock factory fan to 40% without it sounding like a vacuum cleaner. Now I'm, looking forward to getting some thermal paste and installing the top fan.
My GPU is on a twin fan style card so the improved airflow helped to cool down the card significantly. I'm seeing at least 3C lower temp when running on high load and the card cools down very quickly going from active to idle.
One small hiccup is that the fan is interacting with the bracket and my slightly sagged graphics card to give a small buzzing sound. It goes away once the RPM changes a little or if I tilt the graphics card to be a little more upright. Probably resonance but I'll consider getting a mounting bracket for the card. Currently using the power cable to hold it up with some zip ties.
@Anonymous, very detailed post and definitely great job on such an elaborate setup. I noticed you mentioned using Arctic 5 thermal paste. I just ordered Thermal Grizzly Hydronaut online. Should I cancel it and switch to AS5 instead? I haven't applied thermal paste before so I value ease-of-use and reasonable performance. That's all.
Porkchopolous
11 Posts
1
July 19th, 2019 10:00
Yeah looking at my 2080ti, the cooling setup on the card itself is not great. But that's probably the fact that it was a brand new card at the time. Only has one small fan which has to really rev up to cool it during high load.
I wish they had offered water-cooling on the card as well. I would have paid the extra for that.
Darkfish21
4 Posts
1
July 20th, 2019 06:00
Darkfish21
4 Posts
0
July 20th, 2019 12:00
I have an i7 8700k and the GeForce RTX 2070. I ordered the ML120 pro LED fans from Corsair. So hopefully I don’t have any compatibility issues when I install them. I can post pictures once I get the fans in but for the most part my Insides will look pretty standard. Also yes it’s air cooled CPU. The only issue that I have with the setup that I described is that the command center is just bad. Sometimes after booting up you have to change the thermal setting to something else like balanced, wait a few seconds and then switch back to the one I created for it to start working properly.
Porkchopolous
11 Posts
0
July 20th, 2019 16:00
Those are the right fans, should work with no problems at all.
Porkchopolous
11 Posts
0
July 22nd, 2019 12:00
Yeah, it can be a pain to take it out. But the Fan is attached to the Radiator the same way it would be attached to a case. So it's removable, Just harder to get at. I took mine out.
If you go through the trouble of getting at it, someone mentioned it might be a good idea to add a fan to the top part of radiator as well. If I ever take mine apart again, I will definite be doing that.
GTS81
2 Intern
•
2.2K Posts
0
July 22nd, 2019 12:00
Does changing both front and top fans apply to liquid cooled R8 also? Looking at the service manual, it implies that the top fan is part of the liquid cooling assembly. Of course, I'm being lazy and didn't want to pull things apart in my computer to confirm. Would appreciate it if someone here can confirm that I can actually take out the fan blowing at the condenser and replace it with a better fan.
I was debating whether to pair different high pressure and high airflow fans in the case but looks like the ML120 pro offers both high airflow and pressure so that takes out the guesswork.
GTS81
2 Intern
•
2.2K Posts
1
July 22nd, 2019 15:00
So that's what the "push-pull fans" comment was all about. Thanks!
I know it sounds strange to post this here but my problem was due to the fans being underloaded. I can still hear them fans ramping up but they never got louder than my GPU fan when the GPU fan RPM was maxed out at 3500. So I did some investigating with AWCC + Unigine + Afterburner. Turns out that with GPU at 80C which is the thermal limit, my R8 case was detecting ~50C for front and top fans. Front fan is around 26% and top is 35% of speed. So that explained why my case fans never sounded loud. When I manually pushed the fans to 50%, boy, were they loud!
Some sharing that hopefully helps some on this thread:
1. AWCC, even with curve tuning, on same curves, will always create negative pressure in the case. This means the front fan will run ~10% slower than the top fan.
2. Creating custom curves for case fans reduces my GPU temps from by up to 5C on same voltage and frequency. Between negative and positive pressures, I found negative pressure to give better cooling in my case.
3. I created a profile in AWCC called "Quiet" where fans only turn on >70C. When paired with my GPU fan that turns off below 60C, it is as silent as my office laptop.
4. If your fans ramp up suddenly on the most mundane tasks in Windows, do not rule out the possibility of a faulty component or thermal paste application. I was lucky to avoid this on my R8 but ran into this issue on an Optiplex AIO where the 1050 GPU die wasn't connected to the heat spreader properly. It took me 3 phone calls to Dell and insisting that a 9FPS DX11 on their SupportAssist test does not qualify as a "pass" for a discrete GPU when the integrated Intel GPU scored 20FPS.
SFDonovan1
18 Posts
0
July 22nd, 2019 21:00
@Darkfish21
Can you explain where you set these values at? On the AWCC menu on my "New Profile" I see Home > Library > FX > Fusion
Under Fusion I see CPU Overview > GPU Overview & Advanced View > Memory Clock
Under Advanced View for GPU I see an "Unlink" button, and Power Limit > Thermal limit > Core Clock > Memory Clock.
I don't see where I can adjust CPU fans.
Darkfish21
4 Posts
0
July 22nd, 2019 21:00
Darkfish21
4 Posts
0
July 22nd, 2019 21:00
GTS81
2 Intern
•
2.2K Posts
0
July 23rd, 2019 23:00
The Corsair ML120 Pro fans arrived today and I got down to installing them. Been reading the manual earlier in the day and it seemed to me that the top fan removal and replacement looked simple; didn't need CPU cooler and condenser removal. So I started out with the front fan, pretty simple:
Moving on to the top fan. This should be a piece of...
Ok, I know what you guys meant now that it's a pain to replace the top fan. Abort mission for today because I don't have thermal paste to reapply before mounting the cooler back on the CPU.
So I thought, good enough with 1 fan for now. Plugged in my graphics card, closed the chassis, power on and... "No Displayport Input Detected". Must be some loose cables, checked everything, still no display. No funny beeps whatsoever, all fans running properly. Drats, did I kill my graphics card? Tried out the motherboard's DP output. Still nothing. Did I kill my motherboard?
Popped back in old fan, plugged in graphics card, power on... Blank screen! At this point, I was thinking it's time to surrender and get in the customer service queue. Should I make sure I have every single factory shipped part installed before calling them? What if they said my meddling with the fan void the warranty? If I told them that some forum members on this thread did the same mod, would it get them in trouble?
Thought, maybe just check the DP cable one more time. This time, I pushed the end nearer to the monitor harder than usual and "click" it traveled more into the socket. Screen came back on. DUH!!!! Hurray, I don't have to call customer service tonight!
GTS81
2 Intern
•
2.2K Posts
0
July 23rd, 2019 23:00
Drama aside, with only 1 fan replaced, I can hear some audible difference. Like some of you said, it isn't that the Corsair fan is totally quiet, but it has a more tolerable sound to it. This is especially true when ramping up to 50%. I could never set the stock factory fan to 40% without it sounding like a vacuum cleaner. Now I'm, looking forward to getting some thermal paste and installing the top fan.
My GPU is on a twin fan style card so the improved airflow helped to cool down the card significantly. I'm seeing at least 3C lower temp when running on high load and the card cools down very quickly going from active to idle.
One small hiccup is that the fan is interacting with the bracket and my slightly sagged graphics card to give a small buzzing sound. It goes away once the RPM changes a little or if I tilt the graphics card to be a little more upright. Probably resonance but I'll consider getting a mounting bracket for the card. Currently using the power cable to hold it up with some zip ties.
r72019
6 Professor
•
5.3K Posts
0
July 24th, 2019 10:00
GTS81
2 Intern
•
2.2K Posts
0
July 24th, 2019 12:00
@Anonymous , thanks for the input. I haven’t had the time to shop for the stand. Looks like a very neat liquid cooled system you have set up.
GTS81
2 Intern
•
2.2K Posts
0
July 24th, 2019 15:00
@Anonymous, very detailed post and definitely great job on such an elaborate setup. I noticed you mentioned using Arctic 5 thermal paste. I just ordered Thermal Grizzly Hydronaut online. Should I cancel it and switch to AS5 instead? I haven't applied thermal paste before so I value ease-of-use and reasonable performance. That's all.