9. Optimize Windows-7 (64 bit) to use SSD drives

If you clean-install Windows-7 (64bit) fresh, the Windows installer might make some of these changes for you when it detects the SSD during install.

Alternatively, if you clone your existing Windows install from spinning HDD to upgraded bootable SSD, you will likely have to make these OS changes manually. I’ve also found that running Windows Experience Index (WEI) benchmark from Control Panel sometimes makes some optimal SSD related system changes for you. Most optimizations can be easily applied by using Samsung SSD Magician or Intel SSD ToolBox (if you install those brands).

Why upgrade to a SSD if you have a fast HDD already? Well, in addition to a faster boot and application loading, the IOPS are off-the-scale better than a conventional spinning HDD, so the computer will be much "snappier" in general use.

If you have an older machine (that you are going to keep a while longer) that needs a new HDD, a SSD is a good upgrade. Prices are falling monthly. I suggest a 240gb or larger SSD as C: (to hold Windows, main apps, main data files, and small games). If you need more storage than that, you can install a conventional "spinning" HDD as D: to hold large data files, large game installs, etc. (or buy a larger capacity SSD or a second 240gb one later).

Procedures:

Turn off Defrag on SSD drives
- Select Defrag on Spinning Drive. Config Schedule, Weekly, Select Disks, Select only spinning disks and un-check "Auto Defrag new disks"
- - If you run WEI, Windows will automatically disable defrag on your SSD, which eliminates the need to do this manually (it won't even be in list any more).
- Don't use Samsung SSD Magician to Tune-Away defragging if you also have spinning drives in system (it disables ALL drive Defragging).

Verify OS Trim is enabled
- If you clean-install, Windows should detect SSD, and OS Trim will be enabled.
- How to Verify TRIM is Enabled
- CMD Prompt, Run as Administrator
- Type "fsutil behavior query DisableDeleteNotify"
- - If DisableDeleteNotify = 0 TRIM is Enabled.
- - If DisableDeleteNotify = 1 TRIM is Disabled.

Disable Indexing Service (Windows Search helper)
- Samsung SSD Magician will do this for you

Disable SuperFetch and PreFetch
- Samsung SSD Magician will do this for you

Disable ReadyBoost
- Samsung SSD Magician will do this for you

Disable Hibernate
- Reasoning for this is mostly to save space on SSD. Also, you are writing a huge file to SSD every day. Bottom line is that you do not really need to Hibernate machine when you can do a proper shut-down and full boot-up at SSD speed.

Over-Provisioning
All SSDs ship with a small amount of memory dedicated to Provisioning. For long term trouble-free operation (3-5 years) you might want to Over-Provision. SSD drives like the Kingston v300 240gb are already OP by 6% or 16gb. Drives like the Samsung 840/EVO/Pro 256gb are not yet. Samsung SSD Magician makes recommendations and will even do it for you. Basically, what it does is Shrink your last partition, leaving 6% of space at the “end of the drive” un-allocated or un-partitioned. You can easily do the same thing yourself in Control Panel/ Disk Management.

 

IMHO, the following changes are over-cautious, un-necessary, or not worth losing OS feature:

Disable or Move Page File to secondary HDD
- If Virtual-Memory kicks-in, it should be as fast as possible.
- Doesn’t have to be 1.5 times physical memory like years ago (before 6gb-16gb machines were common), but do not disable it completely (for compatibility reasons).
- Newer versions of Samsung Magician might be over-aggressive with this change. Click Advanced, and change the virtual page settings to 'System Managed Size".

Move Windows Temporary Files to secondary HDD
- Reasoning for this is mostly to save space on SSD. Not really an issue as the files are small (and most SSDs now-days are 128gb or larger).

Disable System Restore
- Reasoning for this is mostly to save space on SSD. It might actually work when called upon one day. Remember, it can also be invoked from SafeMode.

Enable Write Caching
- Don’t mess with this setting (let Windows config it)
- Anyway, we are all running on a good UPS (like APC) right?

Adjusting Power Settings (to not spin-down drives after XX minutes)
- First of all, this doesn’t apply to SSD drives. Second, if you have spinning drives in system, they really should be spun-down after 30-45 minutes of inactivity.

Again, the 5 tips in the above section SHOULD NOT be done.

 

Manufacturers, Brands & Models:

SSDs are so cheap now, I suggest you stick to the top-tier brands. I've never been one to accept less performance, reliability, or warranty to save a few dollars.

- Samsung EVO: Good. They design their own controllers. Own memory foundry. Budget pick.
- Samsung Pro: Has the MLC memory type and a better warranty. Performance. Nice software tools.
- Intel: Always been good. Best reliability in the business. Windows software tools. M.2 and Opal to OEMs.
- Kingston v300: Comes Pre_Over-Provisioned. SandForce-2281 Controller and nice MLC memory. Very similar to OWC so works nice for Mac upgrades too (due to OS Trim issues).

 

General Notes:

SATA Controller set to AHCI Mode:
- During the installation process, you want to ensure your BIOS are set to AHCI for the SATA controller to enable AHCI. AHCI is needed for native TRIM support utilized by a SSD. Or said another way … you can’t have OS Trim in a RAID config.
- If you have already installed the OS in IDE mode, it is recommended to switch to AHCI after completing the steps listed in this Windows Article: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/922976 , if your BIOS support AHCI. I suggest a full backup first if you have vital data on system.

Since you have fast SSD, you don’t need RAID. If doing a clean install (and have controller set to AHCI mode), you can skip Intel-RST SATA-drivers installation (use bundled Microsoft SATA/HDD drivers instead). This is not to be confused with Intel-ChipSet drivers (you still need those, and they should be first driver installed).

This is one of the better SSD optimization docs I could find (but refer above to the steps that should be done):
http://www.computing.net/howtos/show/solid-state-drive-ssd-tweaks-for-windows-7/552.html

Here is a good article about deciding to migrate (clone) or clean-install:

http://thessdreview.com/ssd-guides/beginners-guide/ssd-migration-or-fresh-system-installation-an-ssd-primer/

The PCIe-based SSD drives (SATA-less) in MacPros and MacBook Pros are said to be using a custom Samsung engineered solution (re-branded to Apple).

No, SSDs do not last forever. The memory slowly wears-out, same as USB Flash drives. This is where over-provisioning comes in (bad-weak parts are masked away). MLC is said to have the longest life right now.

You can see my (now 4 year old) Aurora config below. The pay-off is that my Aurora with SSD boots in about 25 seconds (15 to Login, 10 to desktop with over 100 processes running). System is very "snappy" even in general use. Even at SATA-2/300 speeds, a SSD is a worth upgrade on this system.

As I review this guide (originally written a few years ago), I see some of it only apples to Windows-7. Since then, Windows-8 and Windows-10 are more "SSD aware" and should take card of many of these optimizations and optimal settings for you automatically (especially on a clean/fresh Windows install).

SSD on Older Hardware:

This applies to Area51-R1, Aurora-R1, Aurora-R2, (and maybe Aurora-R3). Even if your machine is older (with only SATA-2/300 interface) you will still see much faster speeds with a SSD over conventional spinning HDD. Not only is the real-world transfer-speed 3-4 times faster, the IOPS are off-the-chart better. Drop it in there and you will be happy.

However, if you really want SATA-3/600 you have at least 3 options:

1. Replace motherboard. This is an advanced project (and beyond the scope of this thread). 

2. Install SATA-3/600 controller add-in card. However, I don't think you want a PCIe 1x-slot card, due to bandwidth requirements and lanes. Instead, get a PCIe 4x or 8x card. The slot will be larger, and you will have to install in a spare PCIe 16x-slot (usually for extra video-cards). You might also need to run some longer (SATA-3/600 rated) SATA cables to reach the new port location. Due to older Legacy BIOS on these machines, drives connected to it may-or-may-not be bootable as C:.

3. Install a PCIe card that holds a M.2 form-factor SSD (looks similar to a memory DIMM)  . Some descriptions say they support PCIe v1.0 (and those machines would have a MBR Legacy BIOS), so maybe it will actually boot as C:. This solution (if it works) can end-up being much faster than even SATA-3/600.

Lycom DT-120

ZTC Lightning ZTC-EX001

If I missed anything, let me know. Comments welcome. Last change 03-24-2016