I don't know what's wrong with your Alien, but it sure sounds fussy & temperamental.
You've had about everything replaced, therefore I would look into a new Top I/O, since the blue 'power on' pcb board can go bad, leading to shut-off issues. I can't promise this is the cure, but as a low-cost tester I'd buy one, cut off the zipties, take the blue pcb board out, unplug the one in there & plug new one in, let it hang free outside of the case a while by taking advantage of the long wire lengths (take side panel off, allow blue pcb to be insulated away from case); if shut off issue disappears, begin process of integrating power on pcb into your top I/O.
If it doesn't cure the issue, that's 'ok', since everyone is advised to have a spare 'power on' pcb on-hand for times just like this, given they can go bad
If they replaced the power supply, I doubt they replaced the case harness; if you'd like to try a new case harness, buy U647R, as that might be the next likely suspect & perhaps the last likely suspect. U637R would be a good way to spend $ (it at least becomes a spare), U647R might fix this or might not. If U637R fixes this, be sure to buy another one as a spare.
front panel 'power on' header, bottom right of mthrbrd
U637R: disconnect front panel header & MIO JFL1
remove new power on pcb from U637R assembly
'patch' new test pcb into your system (connect front panel & MIO JFL1)
if ok, begin process of incorporating new pcb into system
either insert the entire new U637R assembly -or- take your old blue pcb out & place new in
remove hard drive trim (disconnect MIO hard drive bay leds connector 1st)
check for any pinched / cut wires on both sides of case
avoid cutting / pinching wires when reattaching HDD trim
Typical U637R install & parts removal:
Both doors, front panel (& wiring), top activent assembly (& wiring), hard drive bay trim (& led), grfx/batt shroud (& wire) & pci fan (& wiring) are removed.
for best results, use both color cables, one connect from each
note in the 980 & 980Ti photos, the person is (wrongly) using just one yellow + jumper
note that person's blue cable is unused: use it
each cable is on its own 12volt rail, deploy both colors / cables for maximum power & less likely shut-off / restart issues
Titan X above will work best when the blue & yellow connectors are inserted, & would eventually restart (trip) if just the yellow & yellow jumper were inserted
single yellow = 216watts | single blue = 216watts >< single cable + jumper = minimum power
deploy blu + yellow = 432watts to card = maximum power
example: 980 only fed off of 216w yellow, while 216watt blue is unused? deploy both
solo / single card configs connect as above >< SLI X-Fire may be different
search 'Alienware Area 51 connector chart' in google to find posts & chart pictures for SLI etc
inspect your wiring for pinches / cuts:
activent harness
top left powerboard
top left powerboard continued
sata & related wiring behind PCI-E fan
replace or repair as necessary
this is my 4th Area-51, purchased last August 2nd
complete teardown + inspection of all wiring: been there done that
think about buying a spare MIO board & report back
Wow, thank you. That is the greatest answer I have ever gotten. You are quite correct, they never changed the case harness. That is one of the very few parts that has remained orignal and untouched. I will try to get a replacement for this, i so hope it will cure it. If it turns out it is the cause, it would also explain the lack of logic as to why it shuts down seemingly at completely random times.
And thank you very much for the extremely detailed explanation, with pictures. This will make everything so much more easier now. You seem to know a little about this. :)
Thank you again. I will update this post when i have gotten the replacements and hopefully it will work then.
move Alien into different part of your house, in case it is the wall wiring
buy a new power supply cord of same length / rating: generic example
By-pass the MIO Board & all of its related wiring:
keep side panel & pci shroud open during testing, to help cool interior
disconnect radiator 'system' fan from top left powerboard, disconnect MIO cpu_fan (@memory), insert rad-sys fan 4pin connector to cpu_fan header (see photo later below)
disconnect MIO white 10pin power connector (see earlier landmark photo)
disconnect liquid cooler pump 5pin connect from top left powerboard
face 'positive latch' upside down
place the three main wires / pins (1,2,3) onto your top chassis fan header
power on, cooler now has constant 12volts, all MIO wiring & board are non-functional, isolated from system, 'should' not can trip the power off ... if system stays alive?
possible MIO defect, component attached to MIO board defect, or related wiring defect
basic fan connector shown in bottom chasis fan header
basic fan wiring left to right: ground / 12v / rpm
cooler connector positive latch faces upside down, you're interfacing with the top 3pin chassis fan header, cooler 5pin makes contact with fan header pins 1,2,3 >< pin 4/5 makes contact with air
lower chassis header will not work, only outputs constant 5volts
To by-pass your MIO board & keep vital computer cooling alive, you must power the cooling pump & radiator fan:
CPU_Fan1 is next to memory banks, plug your rad-sys fan in there; buy a 4pin pwm fan extension if yours won't reach
constant 12volt fan header is green arrow:
remove CPU 8pin & 24pin ATX: inspect for loose, bent or damaged poles / pins
run one memory stick, see how far you get
power supply: back the 66pin black bulk connector out, inspect all 61pins for bent / damaged 'mouth', repair or replace case harness if signs of bent damaged deformed pins. Tug on all wires, see if a pin backs out, if so, repair or replace.
To RMA / warranty / return memory like Corsair, they ask you to 1st test their memory using MemTest86 so think about doing that. I've never had to run it; Windows also has a memory diagnostic you can run, the motherboard also has PSA pre-boot assessment, hit F12 or similar at start-up & launch diagnostics ... also try to burn a CD/DVD and do 32bit diagnsotics with MIO plugged in of course. Last? Check battery shroud rechargeable batteries for corrosion, replace with like batteries
I had my own problems here lastnight with a shutdown issue while booting into 5beeps (RTC Failure), I think the motherboard's shot on mine; I had to do some major troubleshooting, wanted to clarify some things for you in case they help:
onboard power on button
I forgot we have an onboard 'power on' button; to bypass your top power on button, back the front panel header connector off (shown above, right, yellow plastic with arrows), then push your red momentary switch, see how long your pc stays afloat. Afterwards, use windows to shutdown, then place your FP connector back on. A system that stays afloat without shutoff issue may indicate a bad top power on button (backing the FP connector off may, may isolate it from the system, it depends on if the MIO sends a feedback to the top power on PCB, where it's indicated the diodes / resistors can go bad, as was said yesterday, top power on PCB can go bad).
Another look at the cooler 5pin connector, by-passed onto chassis fan header
my camera *** on close ups, but I'n trying to show once again the cooler pump connector 5pin has a 'clip', a latch, that faces down:
SYSFAN 5 is a 3pin fan header pushing constant 12volts which the pump can use
the 5pin has 4 wires but 5 slots
1) ground blk 2) 12v red 3) rpm wht 4) empty X 5) redundant ground jumper blk
place power to pins 1 2 & 3, forget empty 4 & ground 5, they lay to the side
From there, get power to your radiator fan. We must power the cooler pump & rad-fan when removing all power from MIO for testing, since MIO of course relays fan/pump power (to the top power board)
Got it?
Honestly, I don't know if I can help you fix yours, but we can talk it out, certainly. As for me?, King Jeremy's getting a motherboard replacement ... wish him luck
EuroFox
1 Rookie
•
3 Posts
0
October 5th, 2016 08:00
I have removed the ram and gpu completely, the cpu has been changed twice. Including the cpu cooler.
john-kimball44
2 Intern
•
169 Posts
0
October 5th, 2016 08:00
tried changing the ram sticks and cpu chip ? and disc drive and cpu cooler?
john-kimball44
2 Intern
•
169 Posts
0
October 5th, 2016 08:00
also gpu *
Cass-Ole
6 Professor
•
1.9K Posts
0
October 5th, 2016 10:00
I don't know what's wrong with your Alien, but it sure sounds fussy & temperamental.
You've had about everything replaced, therefore I would look into a new Top I/O, since the blue 'power on' pcb board can go bad, leading to shut-off issues. I can't promise this is the cure, but as a low-cost tester I'd buy one, cut off the zipties, take the blue pcb board out, unplug the one in there & plug new one in, let it hang free outside of the case a while by taking advantage of the long wire lengths (take side panel off, allow blue pcb to be insulated away from case); if shut off issue disappears, begin process of integrating power on pcb into your top I/O.
If it doesn't cure the issue, that's 'ok', since everyone is advised to have a spare 'power on' pcb on-hand for times just like this, given they can go bad
If they replaced the power supply, I doubt they replaced the case harness; if you'd like to try a new case harness, buy U647R, as that might be the next likely suspect & perhaps the last likely suspect. U637R would be a good way to spend $ (it at least becomes a spare), U647R might fix this or might not. If U637R fixes this, be sure to buy another one as a spare.
front panel 'power on' header, bottom right of mthrbrd
U637R: disconnect front panel header & MIO JFL1
remove hard drive trim (disconnect MIO hard drive bay leds connector 1st)
Typical U637R install & parts removal:
see bottom of page with links to service manual & teardown vid: Success Haswell & USB3.0
Time for a new mthrbrd / cpu + DDR4 memory?
New Power Supply?
link to seller page
for best results, use both color cables, one connect from each
example: 980 only fed off of 216w yellow, while 216watt blue is unused? deploy both
solo / single card configs connect as above >< SLI X-Fire may be different
search 'Alienware Area 51 connector chart' in google to find posts & chart pictures for SLI etc
inspect your wiring for pinches / cuts:
replace or repair as necessary
this is my 4th Area-51, purchased last August 2nd
complete teardown + inspection of all wiring: been there done that
think about buying a spare MIO board & report back
EuroFox
1 Rookie
•
3 Posts
1
October 5th, 2016 11:00
Wow, thank you. That is the greatest answer I have ever gotten. You are quite correct, they never changed the case harness. That is one of the very few parts that has remained orignal and untouched. I will try to get a replacement for this, i so hope it will cure it. If it turns out it is the cause, it would also explain the lack of logic as to why it shuts down seemingly at completely random times.
And thank you very much for the extremely detailed explanation, with pictures. This will make everything so much more easier now. You seem to know a little about this. :)
Thank you again. I will update this post when i have gotten the replacements and hopefully it will work then.
Cass-Ole
6 Professor
•
1.9K Posts
0
October 5th, 2016 11:00
Afterthoughts:
By-pass the MIO Board & all of its related wiring:
5pin cooler connector: cooler only requires ground / 12v + rpm
cooler connector positive latch faces upside down, you're interfacing with the top 3pin chassis fan header, cooler 5pin makes contact with fan header pins 1,2,3 >< pin 4/5 makes contact with air
lower chassis header will not work, only outputs constant 5volts
To by-pass your MIO board & keep vital computer cooling alive, you must power the cooling pump & radiator fan:
constant 12volt fan header is green arrow:
power supply: back the 66pin black bulk connector out, inspect all 61pins for bent / damaged 'mouth', repair or replace case harness if signs of bent damaged deformed pins. Tug on all wires, see if a pin backs out, if so, repair or replace.
To RMA / warranty / return memory like Corsair, they ask you to 1st test their memory using MemTest86 so think about doing that. I've never had to run it; Windows also has a memory diagnostic you can run, the motherboard also has PSA pre-boot assessment, hit F12 or similar at start-up & launch diagnostics ... also try to burn a CD/DVD and do 32bit diagnsotics with MIO plugged in of course. Last? Check battery shroud rechargeable batteries for corrosion, replace with like batteries
Cass-Ole
6 Professor
•
1.9K Posts
0
October 6th, 2016 16:00
I had my own problems here lastnight with a shutdown issue while booting into 5beeps (RTC Failure), I think the motherboard's shot on mine; I had to do some major troubleshooting, wanted to clarify some things for you in case they help:
onboard power on button
I forgot we have an onboard 'power on' button; to bypass your top power on button, back the front panel header connector off (shown above, right, yellow plastic with arrows), then push your red momentary switch, see how long your pc stays afloat. Afterwards, use windows to shutdown, then place your FP connector back on. A system that stays afloat without shutoff issue may indicate a bad top power on button (backing the FP connector off may, may isolate it from the system, it depends on if the MIO sends a feedback to the top power on PCB, where it's indicated the diodes / resistors can go bad, as was said yesterday, top power on PCB can go bad).
Another look at the cooler 5pin connector, by-passed onto chassis fan header
my camera *** on close ups, but I'n trying to show once again the cooler pump connector 5pin has a 'clip', a latch, that faces down:
From there, get power to your radiator fan. We must power the cooler pump & rad-fan when removing all power from MIO for testing, since MIO of course relays fan/pump power (to the top power board)
Got it?
Honestly, I don't know if I can help you fix yours, but we can talk it out, certainly. As for me?, King Jeremy's getting a motherboard replacement ... wish him luck
Cass-Ole
6 Professor
•
1.9K Posts
0
October 6th, 2016 17:00
make sure your chipset cooler fan is still spinning / working, the tiny one, mid-board under the pump