1 Rookie

 • 

3 Posts

October 5th, 2016 08:00

I have removed the ram and gpu completely, the cpu has been changed twice. Including the cpu cooler.

2 Intern

 • 

169 Posts

October 5th, 2016 08:00

tried changing the ram sticks and cpu chip ? and disc drive and cpu cooler?

2 Intern

 • 

169 Posts

October 5th, 2016 08:00

also gpu *

6 Professor

 • 

1.9K Posts

October 5th, 2016 10:00

I don't know what's wrong with your Alien, but it sure sounds fussy & temperamental.

0027.s-l1600.jpg

You've had about everything replaced, therefore I would look into a new Top I/O, since the blue 'power on' pcb board can go bad, leading to shut-off issues. I can't promise this is the cure, but as a low-cost tester I'd buy one, cut off the zipties, take the blue pcb board out, unplug the one in there & plug new one in, let it hang free outside of the case a while by taking advantage of the long wire lengths (take side panel off, allow blue pcb to be insulated away from case); if shut off issue disappears, begin process of integrating power on pcb into your top I/O.

If it doesn't cure the issue, that's 'ok', since everyone is advised to have a spare 'power on' pcb on-hand for times just like this, given they can go bad

If they replaced the power supply, I doubt they replaced the case harness; if you'd like to try a new case harness, buy U647R, as that might be the next likely suspect & perhaps the last likely suspect. U637R would be a good way to spend $ (it at least becomes a spare), U647R might fix this or might not. If U637R fixes this, be sure to buy another one as a spare.  


Panel (3).jpg

front panel 'power on' header, bottom right of mthrbrd

7268.604gc Int RGB Led.jpg

U637R: disconnect front panel header & MIO JFL1

  • remove new power on pcb from U637R assembly
  • 'patch' new test pcb into your system (connect front panel & MIO JFL1)
  • if ok, begin process of incorporating new pcb into system
  • either insert the entire new U637R assembly -or- take your old blue pcb out & place new in

6746_5.JPG

remove hard drive trim (disconnect MIO hard drive bay leds connector 1st)

  • check for any pinched / cut wires on both sides of case
  • avoid cutting / pinching wires when reattaching HDD trim

Typical U637R install & parts removal:

  • Both doors, front panel (& wiring), top activent assembly (& wiring), hard drive bay trim (& led), grfx/batt shroud (& wire) & pci fan (& wiring) are removed.
  • You may want to remove video card(s)
  • Protect your lower panels with a towel etc.

see bottom of page with links to service manual & teardown vid: Success Haswell & USB3.0


Time for a new mthrbrd / cpu + DDR4 memory?

Gl.jpg

3542.ALX Gigabytee.jpg

New Power Supply?

7774.A1.jpg

link to seller page


1016.a2.jpg

for best results, use both color cables, one connect from each

  • note in the 980 & 980Ti photos, the person is (wrongly) using just one yellow + jumper
  • note that person's blue cable is unused: use it
  • each cable is on its own 12volt rail, deploy both colors / cables for maximum power & less likely shut-off / restart issues
  • Titan X above will work best when the blue & yellow connectors are inserted, & would eventually restart (trip) if just the yellow & yellow jumper were inserted
  • single yellow = 216watts | single blue = 216watts >< single cable + jumper = minimum power
  • deploy blu + yellow = 432watts to card = maximum power

6786.ALXd.jpg

example: 980 only fed off of 216w yellow, while 216watt blue is unused? deploy both

blu ylw.jpg

solo / single card configs connect as above >< SLI X-Fire may be different

search 'Alienware Area 51 connector chart' in google to find posts & chart pictures for SLI etc

inspect your wiring for pinches / cuts:

  1. activent harness
  2. top left powerboard
  3. top left powerboard continued
  4. sata & related wiring behind PCI-E fan

replace or repair as necessary


this is my 4th Area-51, purchased last August 2nd

DDay (10).JPG

complete teardown + inspection of all wiring: been there done that

think about buying a spare MIO board & report back

1 Rookie

 • 

3 Posts

October 5th, 2016 11:00

Wow, thank you. That is the greatest answer I have ever gotten. You are quite correct, they never changed the case harness. That is one of the very few parts that has remained orignal and untouched. I will try to get a replacement for this, i so hope it will cure it. If it turns out it is the cause, it would also explain the lack of logic as to why it shuts down seemingly at completely random times.

And thank you very much for the extremely detailed explanation, with pictures. This will make everything so much more easier now. You seem to know a little about this. :)

Thank you again. I will update this post when i have gotten the replacements and hopefully it will work then.

6 Professor

 • 

1.9K Posts

October 5th, 2016 11:00

Afterthoughts:

  • move Alien into different part of your house, in case it is the wall wiring
  • buy a new power supply cord of same length / rating: generic example

By-pass the MIO Board & all of its related wiring:

  • keep side panel & pci shroud open during testing, to help cool interior
  • disconnect radiator 'system' fan from top left powerboard, disconnect MIO cpu_fan (@memory), insert rad-sys fan 4pin connector to cpu_fan header (see photo later below)
  • disconnect MIO white 10pin power connector (see earlier landmark photo)
  • disconnect liquid cooler pump 5pin connect from top left powerboard
  • face 'positive latch' upside down
  • place the three main wires / pins (1,2,3) onto your top chassis fan header
  • power on, cooler now has constant 12volts, all MIO wiring & board are non-functional, isolated from system, 'should' not can trip the power off ... if system stays alive?
  • possible MIO defect, component attached to MIO board defect, or related wiring defect

5p2.JPG

5pin cooler connector: cooler only requires ground / 12v + rpm

  • pin / slot 4 = empty >< pin / slot 5 = redundant ground jumper
  • basic fan connector shown in bottom chasis fan header
  • basic fan wiring left to right: ground / 12v / rpm

5p1.JPG

cooler connector positive latch faces upside down, you're interfacing with the top 3pin chassis fan header, cooler 5pin makes contact with fan header pins 1,2,3 >< pin 4/5 makes contact with air

lower chassis header will not work, only outputs constant 5volts

8468.jpg

To by-pass your MIO board & keep vital computer cooling alive, you must power the cooling pump & radiator fan:

  • CPU_Fan1 is next to memory banks, plug your rad-sys fan in there; buy a 4pin pwm fan extension if yours won't reach

constant 12volt fan header is green arrow:

  • remove CPU 8pin & 24pin ATX: inspect for loose, bent or damaged poles / pins
  • run one memory stick, see how far you get

5126.66pin.jpg

power supply: back the 66pin black bulk connector out, inspect all 61pins for bent / damaged 'mouth', repair or replace case harness if signs of bent damaged deformed pins. Tug on all wires, see if a pin backs out, if so, repair or replace.

To RMA / warranty / return memory like Corsair, they ask you to 1st test their memory using MemTest86 so think about doing that. I've never had to run it; Windows also has a memory diagnostic you can run, the motherboard also has PSA pre-boot assessment, hit F12 or similar at start-up & launch diagnostics ... also try to burn a CD/DVD and do 32bit diagnsotics with MIO plugged in of course. Last? Check battery shroud rechargeable batteries for corrosion, replace with like batteries

6 Professor

 • 

1.9K Posts

October 6th, 2016 16:00

I had my own problems here lastnight with a shutdown issue while booting into 5beeps (RTC Failure), I think the motherboard's shot on mine; I had to do some major troubleshooting, wanted to clarify some things for you in case they help:

onboard power on button

2570.Panel (3).jpg

I forgot we have an onboard 'power on' button; to bypass your top power on button, back the front panel header connector off (shown above, right, yellow plastic with arrows), then push your red momentary switch, see how long your pc stays afloat. Afterwards, use windows to shutdown, then place your FP connector back on. A system that stays afloat without shutoff issue may indicate a bad top power on button (backing the FP connector off may, may isolate it from the system, it depends on if the MIO sends a feedback to the top power on PCB, where it's indicated the diodes / resistors can go bad, as was said yesterday, top power on PCB can go bad).


Another look at the cooler 5pin connector, by-passed onto chassis fan header

PTDC0033 - Copy.JPG

my camera *** on close ups, but I'n trying to show once again the cooler pump connector 5pin has a 'clip', a latch, that faces down:

  • SYSFAN 5 is a 3pin fan header pushing constant 12volts which the pump can use
  • the 5pin has 4 wires but 5 slots
  • 1) ground blk 2) 12v red 3) rpm wht 4) empty X 5) redundant ground jumper blk
  • place power to pins 1 2 & 3, forget empty 4 & ground 5, they lay to the side

From there, get power to your radiator fan. We must power the cooler pump & rad-fan when removing all power from MIO for testing, since MIO of course relays fan/pump power (to the top power board)

Got it?

Honestly, I don't know if I can help you fix yours, but we can talk it out, certainly. As for me?, King Jeremy's getting a motherboard replacement ... wish him luck

6 Professor

 • 

1.9K Posts

October 6th, 2016 17:00

make sure your chipset cooler fan is still spinning / working, the tiny one, mid-board under the pump

No Events found!

Top