Alienware R4 Water Cooling Woes

Question

So for about 3-4 months I've noticed my cpu thermal die reach 90+ degrees while maintaining under it's TJMax of around 100 to no issue. But about five days ago, it reached 100 degrees on core number 4 which in turn gave off warnings like FPS in games would be at 15 FPS due to the CPU not being able to keep up and instant shut offs which I are thankful for so the cpu wouldn't burn out.

So I investigated the cooler (Closed Loop doesn't mean you can't open it) and found the following, thermal paste was non existent. Blockage in the loops and in the radiator which had to be cleaned out. Emptied all the factory coolant and put in distilled water (Freshly Made) and cleaned out with Iso Alcohol. Put thermal paste on again and finished. I Put it back on, screwed everything in. For about 30 seconds temp's where at 60 degrees. Then when I opened steam and launched CS GO for an almost load test. The temp rocketed to 90/90/100/100 and windows became sluggish and shut itself off.

I've read people opened their cooler with no problem, and with other material from people I believe it is possible to do so and put it back, so

What did I do wrong?

Cass-Ole · Accepted Answer

here's a good look at the Aurora R4 / Asetek Premium cooler, dp/n 01YGW. This is an upgrade to all other alienware coolers short of the new Area-51. It is a 38mm-wide radiator vs our old coolers which are 25mm wide, so it holds more coolant = superior cooling, as well as more metal, more surface area to act as an additional heatsink. It has a copper-base vs Aurora's standard aluminum-base, where copper is a superior thermal material over aluminum. The pump may spin faster as well I believe I read. This was a direct drop-in replacement for the standard R4 cooler, therefore the bolt-holes should be the same. That should remain true for R1, R2, R3 since this cooler takes the same 120mm fan, & the cooler accepts a 120mm fan on either side of itself, so bolt holes shouldn't be an issue & should be 'universal' 120mm type. It proves to be 1/8 inch (3mm) taller, so it needs 1/16th inch more room top-bottom when centered in its mounting spot.

Asetek makes this cooler. Dell would like to make $205 for a new one, but yes, STS-Parts has them for about 50 bucks, w/photos of what yours might look like on delivery. Dell & STS are both in Round Rock, Texas --> STS gets parts 'right next door' from Dell, like these coolers. They come w/an R4 socket 2011 retention ring. However, I was able to re-use my x58 socket 1366 (Area-51 R1 & Aurora R1 only) retention ring on mine. R1 R2 R3 owners will re-use their stock retention rings, but when in doubt, Asetek sells Intel retention rings which will fit 01YGW, here is their eBay store:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/asetekparts/m.html?item=281611098695&hash=item4191545a47&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562

@Tesla

I'm glad STS picked you out a winner. As you said, they shipped you a socket 2011 ring; for your R1, simply re-use your 1366 ring. Below, all my grooves line up between premium & my 1366 ring:

Yes it has the same 7pin to plug up top in the light strip for power-ground-rpm & CmndCntr can see it.

They also shipped you a standard stock fan, which is 38mm wide. On your original cooler, which is 25mm wide & you have a 38mm fan, about 63mm total or about 2.5" of rad-fan assembly intrudes into your case, your 'space'. The new premium cooler will be 38mm wide + 38mm fan = 76mm or 3", so the new part will intrude into your system only about another 1/2". To return to the same footprint in your case, simply remove the 38mm fan they gave you & try a 25mm pwm fan, to return to a 63mm / 2.5" footprint in your case.

This premium cooler is the same width as h80i, so to do push-pull, try a pair of 120mm x 25mm pwm fans w/a fan y-splitter of course, where you'll then have an 88mm / 3.5" footprint into the case.

Per your question, will this R4 cooler work in your R1; Asetek makes what they call low-profile coolers. We know they make coolers for about 3-4 other companies & make their own brand also. Their retention rings work on all their low-profile coolers including our AlienCoolers. Your low-profile 1366 retention ring meant for your low-profile original R1 cooler is compatible w/the newer R4 premium 'low-profile' cooler. Slap it in sometime & make the announcement.

I'm the 1st guy I know of to put one in Area-51 R1, where I simply traded a 5pin onto it in place of the 7pin. I prefer to keep using AlienCoolers over say a Corsair type, & I'd rather buy a used premium from STS & actually buy a pair of them, hold one as a spare, knowing it'll plug right back in, no fuss no muss, stay original, keep the alien icon & match h80i's cooling performance. At $205, double what it's worth, Dell priced us all out of these, but thankfully STS didn't.

01YGW is about 1/8 inch (3mm) taller than my w550r A-51 cooler, or 1/16th inch at each end

PLX · Answer

Anyone at all?

PLX · Answer

Please?

Cass-Ole · Answer

hi. I have no experience with opening the aurora cooler, but like you I've read up on it etc. It sounds possible that a few situations may be at work here:

your cooler needs to be flushed again; possible a piece of gunk you missed simply recirculated back down and clogged it right back up - who knows - so flush it out again, keep testing your temps. a working pump should keep your cpu between call it 30c & 40c, so when you see your cpu temp go to 65/70/80/90 don't wait til 80 or 90, just shut down, to protect your cpu
it is possible - though I cannot prove it of course since I've yet to take a cooler apart, that your impellor blade is frozen, or stuck, so take you cooler apart, and see if you can spin it by hand, knowing the impellor may not even be visible, I don't know, you tell me

I've never tried this particular method on my Aurora, but it seems to me you might try to put power to your pump to listen & feel if it is running or not. That would involve unplugging your motherboard 24pin. Then, do the 'take a paper clip to your power supply to turn it on' trick:

after you re-flush your cooler, do not reinstall it, plug it in, but keep it out of the case
search youtube for 'paperclip powersupply'
insert a paperclip or similar into your green wire slot & any black wire slot of your 24pin atx mthrbrd cable, then plug your power supply in, psu will turn on, & you will listen for & feel your cooler pump for a gentle hum or vibration - sensations that are difficult to discern when fans are running etc. if your pump runs? install your cooler & see what your temps get to
this power-up test should take 5-10 seconds; if you feel your pump motor hum, then yank your psu cord, shut down since your test is done, cooler's now ready to place over your cpu
if it doesn't run? hum? vibrate? it might be shot brother. jiggle the pump wires/connector & retry

You may need to think about getting a new cooler, get it over with; you flushed it out to save money & re-use it - if that didn't pan out? - prepare to buy a new one like we all have to do one day, try eBay, 01YGW is the upgraded premium Aliencooler, two left, make a $45 offer:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CPU-Cooler-Alienware-Aurora-R4-Cooling-System-Radiator-PN-01YGW-/141504331233?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20f250bde1
make sure you apply thermal grease between cpu & cooler cold-plate
your retention ring; spin a screw a few turns, move to next opposite-diagonal screw a few turns, repeat, like tightening a car's lug-nuts, so retention ring seats pump uniformly

I make my own cooler pump adaptors, which test a pump using 12volts DC. I suggest the paperclip test so you can apply 12volts to your pump through your power supply in order to know if the impellor is spinning, but I have never performed such a test, don't need to, I have my own direct method. If I did not have a test adaptor, I would try the paperclip-psu method I mentioned earlier; hold cooler pump in hand to feel if it runs or not. You do what you think is best. Me? I bought four 01YGW's from those guys, & do not fool w/the old 25mm Aliencoolers anymore. Pay 50 & treat your cpu right.

It is possible your pump motor simply went bad; you cracked it open, it was gummy, so you thought a simple flush would get it back & running like it does for everyone else, but instead maybe the clogged radiator was a look-alike problem - this is why I say, now test the pump motor itself to see if it still works before trying to cool your cpu with it. When in doubt, buy a new cooler. You bought a gaming pc, be prepared to maintain it with $$$ ... authentic currency.

Tesla1856 · Answer

try eBay, 01YGW is the upgraded premium Aliencooler, three left, make a $45 offer

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CPU-Cooler-Alienware-Aurora-R4-Cooling-System-Radiator-PN-01YGW-/141504331233?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20f250bde1

make sure you apply thermal grease between cpu & cooler cold-plate

your retention ring; spin a screw a few turns, move to next opposite-diagonal screw a few turns, repeat, like tightening a car tire lug-nuts, so retention ring seats pump uniformly

Thanks for posting. I remember you telling me that STS-Parts was a reputable outfit.

I'm not usually keen on "working pulls" but I decided to pick one up anyway in case I need it. After all, it is the "Aurora Premium Cooler" (DPN: 01YGW) for $50. I still can't believe my Aurora R1 system is almost 5 years old.

It arrived fast. It looks almost new. I can verify that the pump assembly does have the required black 7 pin plug, so it should plug into the Aurora's MIO-Board's "Top Lighting Board" with no problems. The Radiator Fan's 4-piner in also correct (SYS_FAN). It also came with some kind of Retention Ring.

It looks like the radiator and fan assembly is a slightly different size, than the old Standard one in my Aurora R1. Hopefully, the mounting holes are compatible and it will just screw right-in where the old one was (when the time comes).

I guess I should have asked before I bought it ... but since this is intended for a Aurora R4 and I have a R1 ...

Due to the processor socket change, is this going to fit/work on my Aurora R1 motherboard ... Intel i7-930 (Socket 1366) Intel x58 Chipset ... as a Direct replacement? Dell says it's only for Aurora R4, but I really doubt that is the case.

Tesla1856 · Answer

Thanks for the time and effort you put into this carefully crafted post. You have answered all my questions and it sounds like I am 'good-to-go'.

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Alienware R4 Water Cooling Woes

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