Green Strobe/Flickering problem with Alienware Aurora R1 and Crossfire HD5870s

Question

My current rig, which has worked fine for four years: Alienware Aurora (R1, I believe) - A11 BIOS version 12GB (originally 6GB)  memory, Two Radeon HD 5800s running in Crossfire mode WIndows 7 Premium, 500 GB drive Multiple versions of Catalyst drivers (13.9, 13.12, 14.2b) Running resolution: 1440x900 at 60HZ, 16:10 ratio My rig has been getting a little long-in-tooth, so I thought I do some minor upgrades.  The first was one was to increase my ram from 6GB.  I purchased two 4GB PNY modules.  To insert these modules, I had to remove one of my HD 5800 cards to reach the memory properly.  After messing with it, I ended up removing the old memory (3x2GB 1066 modules) and just using the faster new 4GB modules I had purchased (PNY 2x4GB 1333).After a few days, I had experienced about four BSoDs and replaced the new memory with the old.  I now only had 4GB and graphics had serious interference/flickering problems when running fullscreen (more on that in a moment).  Thinking this might be a loose connection, I pulled the memory and the card, blow out any dust, cleared the area out and then replaced them.  After trial and error I discovered that at some point, one of my 2GB DIMMS and it's associated slot had both failed.  Moving all the memory around (and avoiding slot 1), I now have 12GB of memory - two of the original 1066 SIMMs and the two 4GB 1333 SIMMs running at 1066.However, the  graphic problems remain.  I discovered by accident that switching to windowed mode for any 3D games I launch fixes the issue, but that's really not a solution.  Disabling the Crossfire option (which is the same thing as running in a window) seems to do the same thing, which again is self-defeating.  Games like Warframe, CubeWorld and Rise of the Triad, which all worked previously, now no longer do.  I even launched Unreal Tournament 2003 (via Steam) and had the issue.  I see from googling that this appears to be a common problem, but no one seems to be agree to the source or the fix (and some folks are using the same words to represent different errors). I do recall running Futuremark's 3D Mark right after I installed the new memory (to see if 8GB running at 1333 would give me any significant performance increase).  When I ran it, the video effect problem first appeared.  I assumed this was due to overheating from the test and saw it stop after the fact. My problem is this:  while running full-screen in any game that uses 3D, the screen flickers CONSTANTLY, like a strobe-light.  It appears to be rendering the game correctly, otherwise.  If I modify the screen refresh rate between 60HZ and 75HZ, I can change the flicker to more of a series of white bands that flicker like a poorly tuned old television set.  I have tried multiple versions of the drivers, with no real change in this behavior.  You can see the problem in this video:[View:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UG6FuFT1BXE:550:0]. I have tried playing with the buffering, v-sync and AA modes, all to no real effect.  I have disabled the ULPS option.  I have disabled the overdrive option to no effect.  Disabling Crossfire fixes the issue, but that's no a solution, just a workaround.  I assume this is a configuration problem, so I was hoping folks here might be able to offer suggestions on things to try to resolve the issue.  My graphic performance was fine prior to this.  When in Warframe, I use all the defaults (High for pretty much everything).  If V-sync is set to on, I get the rolling lines.  If it is set to off, then I get the constant flickering. I can connect to either card to use the video with no problems.  I have run Alienware Autopsy, which doesn't find any problems.  I have never messed with any of the BIOS settings or timing configuration. I have reseated the card and verified that both bridges are connected correctly. Does anyone have any suggestion for additional things that I could try? Thanks.

Tesla1856 · Answer

The first was one was to increase my ram from 6GB. I purchased two 4GB PNY modules. To insert these modules, I had to remove one of my HD 5800 cards to reach the memory properly. After messing with it, I ended up removing the old memory (3x2GB 1066 modules) and just using the faster new 4GB modules I had purchased (PNY 2x4GB 1333).

After a few days, I had experienced about four BSoDs and replaced the new memory with the old.

An Aurora R1 (with i7-9xx processor and x58 chipset) supports Tri-Channel memory if done right. It will hold 2 banks of 3 DIMMs = 6 DIMMs total. Yes, they ALL should match VERY closely. On top of that, each bank (set of 3) must be COMPLETELY IDENTICAL. Memory should be purchased and installed in sets of 3.

Using CPU-ID CPUz and physically inspect.

After you fix that, then you can work on Video cards.

WizarDru · Answer

The proper amount of memory does register in Windows and the memory tests as OK in both the BIOS memory test utility and Alienware Autopsy. Running CPU-Z (previously I had only run GPU-Z) I notice something ODD:

CPU-Z thinks that I have _14_ GB. It seems to think I have the damaged 2GB memory SIMM still in that slot. I'm not sure what to think of that. Windows still see the proper amount of 12GB. Is this a function of it assuming memory MUST be there? Or is it getting that information from somewhere else? It even lists the serial number for that RAMM, so it must be getting that information from somewhere.

Currently I have slots 3 and 5 populated with the original 2GB Elpida SIMMs that the unit shipped with. I have removed the faulty 2GB module and have skipped the now faulty Slot 1.

I'm not sure if this has anything to do with my graphic problems, though. Other than Crossfire not working, the system is working fine.

Tesla1856 · Answer

You need to simplify your config and start finding some pieces that work perfectly together with no strange problems. THEN, move forward.

Go ahead and remove the slave 5870 and leave the one in the main top slot.

The RAM problem is much more important than CFx and problems, and RAM can affect whole machine including graphics.

See PDF Owners and Service Manual on specific allowable RAM DIMM configs and how the Banks work. When Tri-Channel can't work (because Banks are incomplete) it runs in Single-Channel mode which is pretty slow and possibly un-stable. Whether it's old or new set, install 3 matching DIMMs in Bank-1 (slots 1, 3, 5).

Doc BIOS SATA mode (normal or RAID mode). Reset your BIOS to Defaults and remove all Over-Clocks.

They should report correct in BIOS, Dell Hardware Diags (outside of Windows), MemTest86.com boot (long test), and CPUz. If it passes all that ... also in Control Panel/System and other parts of Windows.

Also see:

http://en.community.dell.com/owners-club/alienware/f/3746/t/19530277.aspx

WizarDru · Answer

Did so, but got the exact same results with the one you link (which appears to be identical to what I had installed).

Tesla1856 · Answer

CPU-Z thinks that I have _14_ GB. It seems to think I have the damaged 2GB memory SIMM still in that slot. I'm not sure what to think of that.

Uninstall that version and reboot.

Download the "no install" version, un-block it, extract all, run the 64bit .exe .

http://www.cpuid.com/downloads/cpu-z/1.69-en.zip

WizarDru · Answer

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll do some of these this evening when I get home. The manual (which I still have) and the PDF (which is identical) really offers very little in terms of information about memory configurations. They suggest 1,3,5 (which was what it shipped with) or 1-6. I'm OK with purchasing an additional 4GB PNY module and replacing the 2 2GB modules, but my concern is that Slot 1 appears to be faulty. I don't know of any way to address that short of sending the entire until to Alienware for maintenance...if such a thing is even possible, given the age of the unit.

As for BIOS and other settings, I've never played with them and they are still at the defaults the system came with. One of the main reasons I got an Alienware was so I would never have to bother with overclocking settings and the like...and up until a few weeks ago, it has run rock solid in all that time (give or take a few radeon drivers flake-outs from AMD).

According to CPU-Z, I am currently running in Dual-Channel mode, likely because I am running two identical pairs.

WizarDru · Answer

Okay, it turns out that CPU-Z was right, even though the BIOS reports differently. I had left all the RAM in the PC, so there was 14GB available. 2-X-4-2-4-2. I purchased an additional 4Gb module this evening to match the other two (so all three were identical PNY 4GB 1333 DDR3s) and no matter how I shuffle them, SLOT1 will not recognize any SIMM placed in it.

Not sure what options are open to me. Does Alienware still stock older motherboards? I guess I'll have to inquire how much they are, since I don't think there's really any other way to fix that. That still doesn't guarantee it has anything to do with my graphical problems, however.

WizarDru · Answer

And, in the interest of making sure future google searches prove helpful to other people: PROBLEM SOLVED.

Sometimes, the simplest solutions are the correct ones. After a lot of testing, I determined only two things could be the problem: the cards or the motherboard. Swapping and individually testing the cards showed that they worked fine OUT of crossfire. That suggested the problem was in the crossfire process itself. After moving the bridge cables, the intereference CHANGED. That suggested the solution, which testing bore out. One of the bridge cables that connect to the two cards for crossfire communication was the problem. When I removed one, crossfire instantly worked again.

Closer inspection revealed a hard to see tear in one of the bridge cables, causing the problem. Since crossfire only need ONE connector to function, I did so and the problem instantly resolved itself.

Of course, doing so also caused me to discover the massive problem with Crossfire mode in Titanfall...but that's another kettle of fish. :)

As for the memory reporting: that appears to be some odd artifact of the BIOS. Removing anything from DIMM slot 2 clears the faulty reading of DIMM Slot 1. I have had no problems with this config, other than dropping to DUAL channel mode, which isn't much of a problem.

This evening I tested about a dozen games, like Hard Reset, Loadout, Warframe, Titanfall and others and they all worked like a champ.

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