The ALX-Files: Acrylic Window Kit Mod Area 51 R1 Tower

Question

I installed a clear acrylic window in my A-51 ALX. The window kit is from frozencpu.com, part# win-30/$24 shipped, & includes an 11x17 - 1/8' thick - rounded edge window, 5ft of pro grade rubber trim molding and it got here in 2 days - see link below. I'd bought a brand new ALX replacement door panel (eBay/$55/correct/Flextronics - p685r - link below); having a new spare door and nothing to lose, I decided to spruce up the original panel. Remove the door panel to find a '12x18' dead-center sweet spot, which easily sparks interest in installing a window there. Door panels are 23' end-to-end, the workable area is about '12x18', so an 11x17 window, centered, gives 3' of reveal on either side: it centers up perfect and is about as big a window that will fit the allowable space. Here is a basic 'how to': to prep, I protected the exterior side with a thin cardboard and placed the panel face-down on a large box as a stand. Unfastened both aluminum hand-hold braces (the braces are no longer needed), laid down 3' blue 'painters tape' to box in along all 4 sides of the 12x18 work area, centered the acrylic and traced the template for the cut-out onto the tape using a magic marker and the provided 'washer'...the washer is a 'pencil-guide', helping the template stay 3/16' - 1/4' oversize. The tracing, and therefor the cut-out, must be oversize to accommodate / account for the width of the finish molding. Note: The door panel is about 23' long; in this scenario your goal is to center the 17' of acrylic relative to the 23' of door panel (and not centered within just the 12x18 'cutting space'). Stagger the window a little over to the left so that it 'centers', and amounts to 3' of door on either side of the acrylic. Use a tape measure to measure from the outside-in to maintain the 3' visual reveal. You should center the 11' up-down aspect within the 12x18 space, but use a tape to center the 17' acrylic relative to the full 23' panel. Once staggered, your left tracing will be closer to the aluminum 'hinge' side than the right tracing is to the 'latching' brace side. At first glance it may seem wrong, but in the end it is correct to stage the acrylic more to the left of the 12x18 space. Simply put, it's a 23' door and a 17' window, so do what you must to position the window to maintain a 3' reveal on either side before you trace. You can apply more tape to help hold the window in place as you begin to trace its outline. (If you decide to just center the acrylic within the 12x18 space for simplicity, remember, the window will fit of course, but the final exterior reveal will be like 2' left, 4' right, due to the way Dell designed the door, and the 12x18 spot in particular, relative to the hinge and locking braces etc). All told, the 3 longer straight cuts (top, bottom, left) will be made very close to the aluminum 'braces', while the right long cut stays an inch away from the 'latching' brace. Give or take, your intent is to cut almost the full 12x18 sweet spot out. The final cut-out has to be a tad larger than the acrylic window, to account for the extra 1/4' of molding trim. The template - tracing - cut-out is approx. 3/16 to 1/4' larger than the acrylic window, call it: 11.25 x 17.25. The washer, 'pencil guide', helps account for mounting the rubber trim (which is pressed into place before the window installs) and it needs this additional room. Once the over-size outline was traced and checked for accuracy, I dremel-tooled through the aluminum panel (using reinforced cut-off wheels) attacking the cut-out from the interior side all along the tracing. (A jig-saw with a metal cutting blade would otherwise work on these panels, but may or may not work on this particular size interior cut-out, due to the gate size, proximity to corners, many factors. Perhaps those would best be employed to attack the cutting on a well protected exterior, having carefully and thoroughly transferred the template onto the outer finished side of the panel). Whatever tool you use, Frozencpu's molding is forgiving enough so that your cutout doesn't need to be 'perfectly exactly straight'. There's some 'wiggle-room' there, room for error; as long as your cut stays basically true to your tracing you'll be ok. The trim helps hide imperfections in the final cut. After the cut was made, I deburred the shards, sharp edges and what-not with a sanding drum tip (a file also works), blew the dust off, washed the panel off in the shower, patted dry. I then removed the top, bottom and left aluminum 'braces' (the hinge and guides, not the latching brace) in order to get at and remove the thin bone colored 'felt' strips Dell applied, (all 3 strips had to go). I then installed the molding, custom cut it to fit, then slowly began pressing and easing the window in while wearing latex gloves. Then pressed the molding's 'locking strip' in. Reinstalled the top, bottom, left braces... ...et voilà...a 2 hour job...not too shabby... The result here in person, to me looks bad ***, speaks for itself, and I love it to death. The designers of the A-51 did a bang up job inside to make sure it's snazzy enough in there to deserve a see-through window; now, all of their handi-work, and mine, is right there on full display. Having an inexpensive new spare replacement alx door panel helped to make sure this mod to the original panel was a no-brainer. Acrylic comes in all shapes sizes styles and colors, and there are multiple mounting kits and methods, be it 2 channel rubber trim like this, bolt-on window kits, or the easy c-channel/3M 4010 dbl-side tape method like MNPCTech endorses. And there are many outlets for windows and window kits online to search after. I'm vouching for the 11x17 from frozencpu; it's a perfect size and fit on this door and is impressionably large enough to help dish out the wow factor. Down the road I'll be on the look-out for a smoked acrylic 11x17, but until then I'm thoroughly satisfied with the results. I wish you luck no matter what shape or size you decide to go with. If you prefer to take your door over to a pro and have it done in a shop, you can go that route also. Whether you have an a-51, an alx or a lunar shadow door, this mod works in your cut-able 12x18 spot. Because new replacement doors are hard to get direct from Dell, I've posted links to exact oem replacement doors on eBay from the same vendor mine was purchased from (while they last), in case you feel the need for a new spare as your backup/safety net after moddiing a window panel in your original. What they sold me was new and flawless; I wish you the same luck with them, and hope they can offer you the same. AlienAndy's tried his hand at a window also; see his alien here FrozenCpu windows by ModSmart: 11 x 17 Kit >< window kit assortments PrimoChill by ModSmart: 11 x 17 >< windows assorted PrimoChill offers a two-piece window gasket slightly thinner than the one-piece from Frozen Airene and I are using the 1-piece Frozen, Andrew's using the PrimoChill 2-piece (see pics below) Search eBay for new doors, or use bing / goole or see examples below ALX matte / satin Space Black door (eBay) P685R or example SPlusDirect non-ALX semi-gloss Cosmic Black door X493R >< SPlus non-ALX semi-gloss Lunar Shadow / silver door U561R >< SPlus Dremel used a large thick reinforced carbon type wheel for the 4 straight edges, the rounded edges I transferred a smaller-thinner 'heavy-duty' cut-off wheel to do the radius' (radii, lol) we'll call it. When done, air pump blows shards & dust away, sanding drum deburs & smoothes out the rough edges & sharpens the corners. Blow out residual dust-shards, remove paper carefully, take panel inside, wash off good w/shower head, towel-dry ... (= Airene's Window'd Door Panel - A HeatGun to Restore the Look of Black Rubber - you might be sent 'old oxidized' rubber & silicone-based products like ArmorAll won't help; I've used a heatgun to heat the rubber & bake off the top dry crusty layer (a hair dryer set on high heat may work also); heat the rubber for about 5minutes per foot, afterwards wipe it down with 'ArmorAll' to remove the gook then work on the next section til you're done treating the 5foot rubber they've sent; above is a before & after heat treatment followed by Meguiar's Supreme Shine All said & done I've cut 6 door panels. You saw my ALX earlier above: here, my polished A-51 GLX & Lunar-51 GLX below, as a one time favor for good friends, here are the doors I cut for them: for Andrew, Down Under for Airene: she sweet talked me into a cut & hand-polish for two doors (one's a spare) Area-51 Pegasus Window Kit (link) good luck with your door project

Alienware-Alexa1 · Answer

Hi Cass-Olé, Awesome job done!! Très bien :)

morblore · Answer

Very nice. Great job!

anathema1 · Answer

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suwjordan · Answer

Is the hole exactly same size as acrylic window ?

Cass-Ole · Answer

no, the cutout is oversized, by about a 1/4 inch on all sides

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/3924/win-30/DIY_Window_Kit_-_Rectangle_11_x_17.html?tl=g42c355s913#blank

When u buy a window kit from FrozenCpu.com for instance, you get an acrylic window, an outer trim & a 'washer'; when u lay the window down you'll trace an outline of the window using the washer as a spacer. Your cut-out will be oversized by about a 1/4 inch

the windows fits into the larger upper gap, the skinny lower gap conforms to your door panel, the lock strip makes the trim more rigid.

add 1/4" (the width of the washer they provide) to your template such that your final cut-out dimensions are approx. 11 1/2" x 17 1/2". For the corners and areas the washer can not reach, you must draw your template free-hand.

for the shorter 11.5" horizontal cut, I leave the brown foam adhesive gasket on the door, I use it as a cutting guide, I cut all the way up next to it; when I'm done, I remove the foam gasket & I have 1/4" of metal for the black rubber trim to slide down on. Note the brown gasket on the left of the photo you will see I didn't cut as close to it as I did the horizontal upper/lower ones. It looks like I kept my cut about 1/8" away from the left brown foam piece, which has to do with how your window 'centers' inside the space

FrozenCpu Basic Instructions

Tools required
• Phillips Head Screw Driver for fan screws
• Washer- provided by FrozenCPU.com
• Window- provided by FrozenCPU.com
• Gasket Molding and Locking Strip - provided by FrozenCPU.com
• Pencil- not provided
• Plastic knife or paper clip- not provided
• A dremel, jigsaw or other tool that can handle cutting thin sheet metal.
NOTE: FrozenCPU.com is not responsible for damage to your case during installation.
We ask that you take your time as a window installation is not a quick and simple
process. Remember the molding is thick rubber and will hide any imperfections that arise
during the cutting process. You have "some" room for error, close to 1/8" can be hidden.
1) Remove the side / top panel of your case.
2) Lay our window on the case flat where you envision the window to be installed. DO
NOT REMOVE THE PAPER BACKING OF THE WINDOW YET. Measure sides
to ensure the window is centered. Next clamp the window in place.
3) To draw the outline of the window, use the metal washer that was provided with the kit
and place the tip of your pencil in the middle portion of the washer. Put the washer on the
case so that it is *** up next to the window and then trace around the window. You may
want to tape the window down to the case so that it does not move during this process.
4) After this outline is drawn lift the window off the case, remove any tape if used to
secure window while tracing.
5) What you should be looking at now is an outline of the cut.
6) NOTE: The gap that you are cutting is obviously bigger than the window so it can
accommodate the molding and window for a snug fit.
7) At this point, your template is drawn and the fun begins! Use your dremel tool, jigsaw
or similar tool and begin to slowly cut neatly around the line that you have drawn.
Again, you do have "some" room for error here but dont go crazy.
****Please use protective eyewear and earwear during Step 7!****
8) Once completed you can use a file and debur off any sharp edges from the
cutting process that still remain on the panel. Once filed and deburred, you can start
installing the window.
9) There is a trick to getting the window on, and here it is. Stretch the molding to fit the
window. The smallest gap in the molding is to accommodate the edge of your case. It’s
the thinnest gap on the molding. You will see a ¼ inch thick gap in the molding m that is
to accommodate the window itself. Then you will see a triangular gap in the molding and
this is for the locking strip to close the molding and make the window snug and free from
a looseness or vibration.
10) On to installing. Place rubber gasket molding along the window that you just cut in
your case using our washer and your cutting tool. Work the gasket around the inside of
the cases edge until you have secured the gasket around its edge. NOTE: You may need
to trim some of the gasket to length with some scissors. Please leave extra length on the
molding as you do not want it to short. Once the gasket is around the cases window edge,
take your window and angle in one side of the window into the ¼ inch gap that is for the
plastic window. Now push the rest of the window in slowly, working it around to get it
snug. Use some spray silicone to work with the rubber if you need to.
11) Once the window is in, you need to put the locking strip in. The locking strip is
attached to the window molding already and simply needs to be snapped in place. This is
the piece that will tighten the ¼ inch gap where the window is sitting making the window
tight and snug. NOTE: To work the locking strip in, use a plastic knife or a paperclip to
separate the molding a little while pushing the locking strip down low into the groove.
The locking strip should be low in the groove. Continue this process, working it in
slowly. It will eventually go in. Again, use some spray silicone to work with the rubber if
needed. Lots of Windex also works as well.
12) If the window has fan mounts, use a phillips head to mount the fans and grills by
lining up the holes with the fan and grills. Lay the window down on a table for this
process to be easy. Place the fan underneath the window and the grill on top of the
window. Tighten screws gently. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!
13) Armor all is a great agent to rub along the molding to bring out a shine!
14) Put your side panel back on case and enjoy.

Cass-Ole · Answer

what I like to do to prep is lay down a bunch of blue tape on the rear so I can draw on it. Since the door is about 23" wide, I center the 17" wide window in the cutting space such that there's about 3" on each side.

I start by drawing the actual 11 x 17 window, trace it exactly. Next I take the washer to it, trace as much as I can; the washer will 'roll' with my pen and leave a perfect 1/4" oversize tracing. When I'm done with the washer, I take the window out & by free-hand I finish drawing the template such that all sides are 1/4" larger than the original window drawing (which is 11 x 17) and the finished template should be 11 1/2" x 17 1/2" (+1/4" on all sides). Again, the washer will not fit at the brown foam gaskets, but they are perfectly straight, so I can free-hand draw my line, but the end result is to cut as close to the brown foam gasket as possible & since they are straight you can use them as your guide, zip-cut right down the length of them.

They will give you perhaps a 60 inch rubber trim, you will use perhaps 52 inches of it, so the rubber trim is cut-to-fit using a utility-blade. I normally install the rubber trim 1st:

I 'center' one side of the trim at the bottom
next I push the trim around the entire cut-out
when in place, at the bottom, about 8inches of trim will dangle past center

Now I push 3 sides of the window in place (push/force the window inside the rubber trim for installation), and cut the 8" of extra rubber trim off last (after I've protected the painted surface so the utility blade doesn't harm the paint when I cut the rubber trim to size). You have to 'guess' where to cut the rubber, if you do it right, your trim will look seamless.