5 Tungsten

The ALX-Files: On a Practical Approach to the Area 51 R1 Aurora Power Supply Swap EVGA 1600 T2 P2 G2 Corsair ax1500i ax1200i XFX Seasonic 1250 Hale90 1200 & Other PSU Models


the ALX Files is a Series of How-To Guides I produced, dedicated to

Taking Care of Baby

Master I/O AlienFx Daughterboard Reference Photo

10pin 1Mb.png

Learn it Live it Know it

Area-51 R1.6

Ultimate Lesson: EVGA 1600 T2 P2 G2

4064.MIO Build Log (78).JPG

AlienClub member Pasolaminado contracted me to hand-make his MIO 10pin + extension

All information produced here is dedicated to EVGA T2 P2 G2 Power Supplies, which have their own unique cables & pinout: the diagrams below are not applicable to any other model PSU

applies to 1000 1200 1300 1600 T2 P2 G2

the techniques you discover should cross-over to all other PSUs, so watch & learn

Paso is the 50th Area-51 R1 owner whom I've helped with my hand-made cables ... I wish his 1600P2 was order #51, but it is what it is: I've finally got this chassis under my belt, proudly displayed here


here's his EVGA Mthrbrd & 1600watt PSU Swap Guide ... enjoy:

Area-51 Skylake 6700k | Z170k Classy Motherboard | EVGA 1600 Power Supply Swap

1600 T2 P2 G2 Proven Pinout

Color 1600 P2 FP Full.jpg

note: SATA 6pin port, SATA devices get a 5wire 6pin modular cable + connect; Paso tested the unused pin in the top left slot for whether it is a live 3/5/12 or ground & it appears to be a 'dead' pin. Unfortunate too: if it was a live unused 5volt or live unused 12volt (as seen in Corsair / Seasonics), it would or could have come in handy under certain wiring-connecting scenarios (discussed in my larger Guide later). I'm confident that the below Harness Kit is about the best way to go about connecting MIO to 1600P2, & I'll show alternative ways to make a harness also

3823.MIO Build Log (76).JPG

P2 FP.jpg

MIO desires a 10wire harness & I've grabbed up 10 Front Panel pins to power AlienFx

x6 wires through the spare 8pin CPU port, x3 through SATA 6pin port: the 10th wire - 5VSB purple - I've split the wire, jumped it inside of a tapping extension, where one wire goes to the motherboard as it normally would & a jumper is directed or splits to MIO, which likes to have 5VSB per factory spec. If you can't split 5vSB with a jumper, or tap 5vSB somehow, you'll have to find a way to get Standard (red) 5volts to your purple pin instead, example: from the red pin of another open SATA port

Built 77.JPG


our factory 1k 1.1k 1.2k PSUs = 8 1/2" or 216mm ... this one? ... 8 13/16"



1600 Master 24 18 10 Color Full.jpg




2287.MIO Build Log (95).JPG

due to the 29inch 750mm long cables, I've been commissioned to make a 13" 15" set




DSC_4547 ALT.jpg


to pull this off without a hitch, I asked Paso to mail me a few cables: 24p ATX CPU 8p & SATA 6pin, for sizing & to interrogate cables for their pinout, which lead me straight to 1600P2's pinout

8562.Assembly One (1).JPG long extension (7).JPG

3617.Assembly One (2).JPG

5344.Built (78).JPG

the finished cables are staged inside of my Alien: all looks good & ready for shipping

Built Color.JPG

X-Ray Vision

PSU Front Panel pins push out 3 / 5 / 5vSB / 12 / Ground ... I grabbed up what MIO needs & all of the connector pins match up in their respective slots

Making sure the harness pins all match up: Continuity & Voltmeter Testing

I triple quality checked the cables with my voltmeter set to Continuity Test before mailing them out ... on arrival, Paso was advised to place PSU chassis on a work table & use his voltmeter to confirm the MIO harness & Sneaky Pete output volts grounds identical to the Reference Photo, which they did ... the steps to check your cables are shown below:

  • his voltmeter has Continuity Test with audible alarm, so he quality checked the cables too
  • afterwards, he did a benchtest for 5vSB, then for live volts /grounds after a jumpstart 'on'


your final act is to bench test your hand-made MIO 10pin harness, as above

Teaser Pic: a Sneak Peak from inside of Paso's 51

Joe Day One D.jpg

MIO tell-tale orange & blue LEDs are lit: this tells me the harness passoed inspection

chassis & cables are installed: cables tested safe & approved for use

  • PSU plugged in, rear switch 'on', PSU off: tested for 5volts Stand By to MIO pin5 = passo
  • PSU jumpstarted on, MIO 10p volts grounds tested against Reference Photo = passo


he used the jumpstarter - probed new cables (voltmeter) with PSU plugged in - then when jumped 'on', following the jumpstart / voltmeter test I put together for you here

Publishing the How-To

MIO Build Log (1).JPG

I prefer to use 16gauge Molex PSU Pin Terminals from

  • Female Pin Molex Part# 39-00-0211 >< Male Pin 39-00-0081
  • 10pin Molex Mini-Fit Jr Connector: Female part# 39-01-3105 >< Male 50-36-1738
  • 16gauge wire by Lutro0, care of
  • Mainframe also supplies PSI pins, 10p / 8p / 6p / 4p connectors, wire & sleeve etc

some materials in photo above were culled from Video Cables I made, see below, left

Vids Day 1 (3).JPG

the harness materials, above left, some of the pins need to be backed out 1st, below

MIO Build Log (7).JPG





you can buy pin removal tools or use something flat: needle, thumbtack or similar

MIO Build Log (12).JPG

that's better.

1600P2 is as long as the Titanic: only a 10p extension is required, no need for an 18p

MIO Build Log (22).JPG

your starter material? It can come from your unused CPU 8pin & an unused SATA 6pin

don't wanna cut up your new cables? I don't blame you: try eBAY for new/used CPU 8 & SATA 6

MIO Build Log (27).JPG

MIO Build Log (36).JPG

MIO Build Log (40).JPG

MIO Build Log (43).JPG

I slap the male pin on last, solder it, push it into its 4p connect ... so let's move on & see what it is I'm also going to make that the 4p male will eventually connect to 

Extension How-to: 10pin Branch of the 24pin ATX cable

10p extension's for one & only one reason: tap 5volts Stand ByI could of course, but I don't & won't disturb the factory 24pin ATX cable by jumping directly into 5VSB which exists in its 10pin branch, but what I will do is make a short faithful plug & play recreation of the 10pin branch & make my 5VSB tap inside of that instead; I'm making a mini-extension / adapter for the 24p 10p branch to plug into, which will also house my MIO 5VSB jumper wire, which I'm about to make below 

MIO Build Log (53).JPG

1600P2 is using upgraded 16gauge wire in the 24p ATX cable; there are x9 16g wires inside the 10p branch - 5VSB is one of them - so I'll insert a 16g wire to feed the 24p (the motherboard) with, & my 5VSB jumper approach will simply be one 16g wire folded over on itself, as seen above, finished jumper as seen below

MIO Build Log (68) - Copy.JPG

MIO Build Log (73).JPG

MIO Build Log (74).JPG

MIO Build Log (77) Used.JPG


x4 Custom Grfx Cables

At 29.5" or 750mm each, x4 1600P2 factory grfx cables in SLI = about 9.8feet or 3meters of cable in the case floor area ... it's too much ... our original vid-cables are custom sized to 11" & 13" which is easily managed, so I'm going to do Paso a one time favor & hand-make a shorter 13" & 15" set. I have brand new Grfx cables from my ax1200i cable pouch which begin as 24inches, I'll mod those by lopping off 9"-11"; I won't disturb the factory VGA ends, I'll simply pop new PSU females on the PSU modular ends of these cables & drop solid VGA connex on, wired to 1600P2  Front Panel specs.

TIP: sells individually sleeved cables for G2 P2 T2 & many other PSU models

  • 29.5" 750mm T2 P2 G2 Grfx Cables are way too long for your Alien
  • even 24" 600mm basic cables from any PSU maker can seem long
  • Custom Length Grfx Cables

They can make & sell you as many Grfx cables in whatever length you want, it's up to you; they have a size Configurator on their ordering page where you might try a set of 350mm & 400mm cables (~14" & 16"), about $15 (US) each, it's money well spent

An alternate plan is to buy new or used EVGA Grfx cables on eBay & mod them yourself or pay someone to - but not me, I'm not for hire anymore - below is a one-time only affair in the best interest that 1600P2 finally makes a proper debut in AlienClub Coliseum using proper length cables

Vids Day 1 (7).JPG

Vids Day 1 (9).JPG

Vids Day 2 (1).JPG

Vids Day 2 (3).JPG

Vids Day 2 (6) - Copy.JPG

et voilà

MIO Build Log (93).JPG

I'll talk about 1600 P2 & the hand-made cables above, as well as possible other ways to integrate this chassis into your 51 using less-advanced wiring techniques compared to my Pro Kit above. For now, let's discuss 5Volts Stand By & possible ways to tap into it ...

 - 5volts Stand By -

The Industry Standard Color for 5VSB wire is purple. A normal computer - with just a motherboard - only one 5VSB wire / pin is needed from the modular power supply, sent through the 24p ATX directly to the motherboard over pin9 ...: our computers 'jump' 5VSB between the mother & daughterboard per factory specs.

When the PSU is plugged in but it is off, so long as the rear switch is 'on', the PSU kicks out 5volts: a motherboard might use that 5v to help power a USB device, with PC off (but plugged in). For similar reasons, our MIO boards get 5VSB along with the motherboard. 

When your computer is plugged in but off, 5VSB pin is hot 5V, outputs 5V ... when your PC is turned on? ... 5VSB remains hot 5V - still outputs constant 5V:

  • your MIO needs 5volts on powerup to pin5 purple
  • but it can survive if it doesn't get 5VSB in the least it has to have standard 5volts

The Industry Standard Color for typical 5volts is red, I call it standard 5volts: your standard 5V pins are only hot 5V when PSU (computer) is turned on. If MIO can't get 5VSB from the Front Panel or the 24pin ATX cable somehow, you have to 'turn' pin5 into Standard 5V, it's as easy as finding an open 5volt pin somewhere, or jumping purple to red so that they share a pin, share a slot together

Again, forPaso, SneakyPete 10p extension's there to tap 5VSB without fooling with the 24p ATXFinal 1600 0.jpg

Let's call it for 'Warranty Purposes' ... what if you bought a spare 24p? Well, you could tap it 5VSB

Final 1600 1.JPG


no extensions necessary ... depending on the PSU of course

My larger Guide in the separate post below has advice on ways to tap 5VSB. Let's see how the original PSU does this

Final 1600 1a.JPG

two purple wires jumped to the same pin, sharing 5VSB

If you'd like your MIO & your Alien to wire back to factory specs after your PSU swap, you have to tap 5VSB somehow ... but if you can't? ... you can still provide - in fact - you have to provide purple pin5 standard 5volts, meaning if you can't tap purple 5VSB then you have to tap into red Standard 5V somewhere

Final 1600 2a.JPG

A lot of people are befuddled by my PSU Guide, it is too difficult to learn by?, to that I say, back (or cut) the MIO 10pin harness out of your original case harness, or buy a $15 U647R case harness, re-use the old PSU pins or better yet apply brand new proper pins to it ... either way, original MIOs freed from the bonds of that dead-end case harness are an excellent source material, color-coded for ease of use,, & are just a few places to shop for connectors, pin terminals, sleeve, wire, extensions (for source material), you can buy pre-pinned wire with pin terminals already crimped on & sleeved, this is my best advice, since there is no way around not hand-making one of these harnesses. Above, x3 MIO 10p's, freed from the U647R case harness, & each of these three has its own take on how to integrate to 1600 T2 P2 G2

Final 1600 3.JPG

Final 1600 4.JPG

Final 1600 5.JPG

I dug Harness 4 out of a box, didn't know it was in there

If your modding skills are non-existent?, a scenario exists where if you're lucky & your red MIO pin10 wire is jumped to another red 5V wire (in Main Sata, 24p ATX or Hard Drive SATAs), if you snip what will be the unused red wire a few inches back, maybe you can use it to splice into purple ... convert purple to standard 5volts ... proper insulating connectors & heatshrink are WAY BETTER than splice & dice + electrical tape ... regardless, the above photo shows a 4th way to get 1600 P2 and just about any other PSU into your 51, without tapping 5VSB or making extensions like I do here

Final 1600 1b - Copy.JPG

If your red MIO pin10 isn't jumped to another red wire, well, purple pin5 is certainly jumped to the ATX purple wire ... back the purples out of the 66pin & the reverse would happen here: cut the ATX purple & splice your red MIO pin10 wire to it ... in this scenario, you plug the purples into your new 6pin & make an external splice to red MIO pin10 ... it's a twist on the Harness 4 photo ... understand???

What exists inside of my sleeved black harness?

And maybe yours?

Stare at the Diagram while I talk

To make a black sleeved harness like I made - but without robbing from your new pouch cables - go to eBAY, look for a T2 P2 G2 CPU cable & SATA cable (new or used): when they get there, cut them up, use the factory female pins where you can, back any pins out when needed & relocate them, for instance a CPU cable is double-ended = 16 PSU pins = 16 wires to work with + SATA = 5more. Head to for whatever connectors / male-female pins you need, re-use the sleeve off of your CPU/SATA. Look at the MIO on your old case harness, it's color-coded, apply what you see to the tremendous visual material I produced for you here, hopefully it all works out for you there

Consult a Local PC Pro, Audio Install / TV Repair Shop: maybe they can make it for you


Note the attention I paid in this diagram to pin5 purple

it can either be genuine 5VSB that you've tapped from ... somewhere ... somehow

or it can be converted to Standard 5V by grabbing a 5Volt pin off the front panel

- tap 5vSB ... an idea -


micro 24pin extension available from eBAY US seller new_used_computer_parts

  • 90 Degree Left Angle 24-pin E-ATX Motherboard Power Supply Adapter Cable
  • 90 Degree Right Angle 24-pin E-ATX Motherboard Power Supply Adapter Cable
  • a right & left are available, it depends which way your 24p orients

The obvious idea here is to have this seller make you a micro-24p-extension, using 16gauge wire of course (in the 19-20 major wires 3/5/5vSB/12/ground), & intentionally insert an 18gauge jumper wire on Pin9 for you as your 5vSB jumper wire. From there, design a way to get it down to the case floor into your MIO 10pin, on pin5 purple - either using a single ~24inch wire (a hard-wire direct to MIO 10pin) or design the 5vSB jumper wire to wear a 2pin / 4pin break-away connect like I do it

Most 24pin male-to-female extensions like above are normally 6-8inches long, they're bulky up there in the motherboard / black snaplok area ... today's the 1st time I've seen a micro-adapter, it could be put to good use if someone can insert a jumper into pin9 & gobble up 5vSB that way ... ... ...

the eBAY seller above appears to do specialty cables, consult with them to explore your options: perhaps they can make a non-angled mini ... a normal extension, no right-angle etc. is another vendor who might be able to do this same work. Whether you try a 24pin extension up top, or try the 10/14/18 'Branch' extension(s) at the opposite end in the case floor at the PSU, an extension is a proper place to tap / split  5VSB between your motherboard & MIO 

- tap Standard 5volts ... an idea -

  • you can jump purple to red & grab 5V on the same pin terminal from one connector slot, as I showed in Harness 2
  • you can isolate MIO pin5 'purple' into its own 6pin as I showed in Harness 3


5volts can even be tapped from your Main Molex cable if you install one: wire pin5 up with a long extending wire & crimp one of these pins on for all I care ...

or mod a SATA extension, tap a new SATA head, just a 5V wire


my PSU Wiring Project is done ... good luck with yours

Trick or Treat

I'm making a Halloween 2016 edit right now ... I was on uTube & stumbled on a March 2016 video which includes a hand-made MIO harness for EVGA 1300 G2 ...

Youtube: Moving my Gaming Rig into the Alienware Area 51 R1



- desperate times call for desperate measures -

I left a comment on this person's video directing him to my Part1 Guide here & Part2 later below of course: hopefully he'll use the illustrations available or contact me for a Pro Kit ...

the Parasitic Twin adapter seen above?

Crude but effective - I've seen a few of these before - one must do what one must do in order to defeat Evil Alien Proprietary Technology. Be that as it may, I've shown what else can be done for a psu model like an EVGA. In a world where we can tap the modular ports for all power - for all volts / grounds - why leach power off of a 24p & rob the motherboard? In the world of the micro-24p extension seen earlier, I'd settle for splicing into 5vSB only, then grab the other x9 wires through a hand-made modular 8pin & 6pin which snatch power from the front panel, as the best way. Naturally, if you can get a harness whipped together, you can always come back later & take a 2nd better shot at something a bit more proper, something a bit more well thought out & I hope you do ... not the 1st result, but ...

the End Result

Custom Length Cables T2 P2 G2

EVGA's 1000w 1200w 1300w & 1600w PSUs have one thing about them that's difficult to get over: the size of the GRFX cables, 29.5" 750mm = ~10 Sneaky Feet / 3 meters of wire in the case floor area, worse if you have triple cards = 15 feet *yikes*


I make my own GRFX cables, I'm set here


Well *sigh* Put it in your budget to someday order a set of custom length Grfx cables, they're ~$15+ each, a set of x4 = $60+, but it's $ well spent, does away with the Anaconda in your case floor area which has limited space as it is. Again, even standard 24" 600mm cables can be a bit much.

Goldilox vid-cables are ~13" - 16"


TIP: offers Mod/Smart custom cable sets & sizes, Google this search term: EVGA mod/smart Single Braid Maxcord Cable Set, note this is a full pouch of new cables in various color choices where you can pick up x4 - x6 Grfx cables in more manageable lengths of 13" - 16", whatever size you want to order

CPU 8pin: 28" - 29.5" (700 - 750mm) works best in 51 R1

SATA cables: our factory originals for the x6 hard drive bays are about identical in size to the EVGA SATAs, coming in at ~21.5" 550mm from PSU connector end to the 1st SATA head; if / when ordering (custom sleeved) SATA cables for your hard drive bays, 21.5" 550mm is a good choice. Paso has taken my advice & used x2 SATA cables for the HDD bays: each cable powers x3 HDD bays while the 4th SATA head on each 1600 P2 cable goes unused

24pin ATX: custom sleeved should be fine at 23.5" - 24" ~600mm, same as what arrives in your new 1600's pouch

And last but not least - yes - a competent modder can make a matching individually sleeved MIO 10pin, using excess materials from a custom sleeved set: for advanced methods, find them in the Original Swap Guide ... scroll down below to find it 'all'

Left v Right

... make a 24pin (branch) extension? ... or forego the black snap-lok organizer ...

EVGA T2 P2 G2 is one of the few PSU chassis' that have a right power port location

When choosing a PSU, the way the front panel looks with the fan facing up is how you can tell where the 24pin ATX (branches) will orient:

  • this post is dedicated to Paso & his EVGA beast chassis
  • his 10pin 18pin branches reach the front panel without need for an extension, while the solid 24p mthrbrd end routes back up, out & over the black snap-lok
  • the 10p extension I made him was for one reason: tap 5VSB, leave factory 24p untouched

There are things to learn about other modelsof course, like knowing what you might be in for based on which model you chose to go with. My 1st PSU swap was the Seasonic x-1250 (from above)


I disassembled our U647R case harness, popped all new pins / connex on the ends, tapped the 24p ATX cable & only after the chassis went in did I realize the 24p was too short to reach - thus - I began making 7" extensions & tapping them 5VSB as the best of excuses. Don't get me wrong, the 18+10 branches can plug in without need for a 7" extension - but - the 24" cable no longer routes up, out & over the black snap-lok; that's why I devote so much time to 5VSB & extensions: do you or don't you? can?, will?, won't ... yes or no

use it or lose it


(disregard arrow); Corsair ribbon 24pin befuddled the owner into the routing you see


above, baby brother Aurora can have the same issue with a new 24p ATX cable, & some owners chose to forego use of the snap-lok ...

Right mount 24pin ATX (branches) - like T2 P2 G2 - have their advantage, they can 'require' less:

  • 24p (10/18) can be a direct plug-in
  • by-pass 5VSB (turn it into Standard 5V) & your Project requires less work & materials
  • putting more into it than that is entirely up to you

Left mount 24p (branches) incur a penalty of sorts: either make / use an extension - either tap it or don't - either keep or lose the snap-lok as a cosmetic 'penalty' / factor

Snaplok cable organizers in A51 can be dropped down an inch or two, it might help:

  • back the x2 screws out - drop it down - insert x1 screw / hold unused screw in a box
  • depending on motherboard, move snap-lok down may / may not interfere with SATA ports 

cash money 2.JPG

my Seasonic Platinum 1200 Pro Kit: ribbon MIO + 10/18 extensions (sleeved) & tapped 5VSB

 cash money.JPG

assembled Pro Kits: NZXT Hale90 1200 Corsair ax1500i / 1200i Seasonic / XFX 1250

left mounted chassis' do their best & look their best with extensions:

  • wire back to the stock 5VSB spec ... route back to the stock snaplok look

EVGA T2 P2 G2 models - 1000 / 1200 / 1300 1600 - may not need as much 'work', but their Grfx cables tend to be extra-long: little details like that are what await you as you shop & later install

Airea-51 R1.5

Corsair Ax1500i: The Doom'sDay Machine

Project (4).JPG

Customer #53's Alien will become an Area-51 R1.5, & they need my help with the ribbon set

1500i color.jpg thinks Ax1500i 80Plus Titanium is pound-for-pound the best PSU made: I agree

1500i FPanel.jpg

fan face up, the verified front panel pinout orients this way


1500i comes with a full pouch set of Type3 ribbon cables and I'll be using matching material

To date, I've lent my talents to about 15 or more owner's who installed 1500i; some chose the included ribbon cables, others went with ax1200i sleeved cables, & there are's individually sleeved cables as well

What's nice about Corsair, is they sell replacement cables at a great price, so I suggest you purchase some spare cables from them to use as your material, keep your new pouch together un-fooled with for warranty purposes of course

80cm 31.5 cpu 70cm 27.95 24pin.jpg

you get extra-long CPU + Motherboard cables in your pouch

Master Color 1.jpg

I'll be tapping 5volts Stand-By (purple), again, by making a 10pin extension

Master Color 2.jpg

not tapping 5vSB? In all Corsair Type3 PSU models, each SATA 6pin port has a live but unused Standard (red) 5volt pin that you can easily tap into ('turn' MIO pin#5 into Standard 5volts):

  • Corsair SATA cables use a 5-wire scheme, with a 6pin connector on the end
  • that means one slot is always empty
  • the 6th unused slot conceals a live 5volt (red) pin you can tap
  • you will lose 5volt Stand-By features of course, as the cost of the easier cable

but: if you by-pass 5vSB - you may not need a 10 / 14 extension

- Getting Started -

Project (1).JPG

the new 24pin will not be used here, I'll be using my leftovers / scraps

Materials List

  • spare ribbons taken from a 24p ATX cable & x2 SATA cables ( ~$20)
  • empty Molex Mini-Fit Jr connectors (shown)
  • Male + Female Molex Mini-Fit Jr pins / terminals

Project (6).JPG

tip: 10 / 14 extension material can be taken from a new 24p ribbon like above

With a brand new 24pin ribbon, simply cut off the 10 + 14 branches (at the power supply end of the cable) at the correct length:

  • the 10 / 14 will have factory pins already applied, so re-use them
  • simply tap 5vSB from the 10pin branch
  • last, apply MALE pin terminals to the other end
  • push them into your 10 / 14 MALE molex connectors
  • my 10 / 14 MALE Molex connectors are purchased from

below, I've already used the factory 10 / 14 ends on someone else last year, so I'm going to start off with fresh ribbon (leftover scraps), which means I need to place new pins at both ends, which increases the time & effort a bit

Project (2).JPG

above & below: making the 14


(you'll see the finished harness shortly)

below: making the 10, tapped 5volts Stand-By (purple)

10 (1).JPG

10 (2).JPG

(see the finished extension shortly)

- Making the MIO 10pin ribbon - 

1651.mio (1).JPG

this will be easy: disassemble / cut SATA cables, apply new pins, apply connectors ...

 7345.mio (2).JPG

6763.mio (3).JPG

0511.mio (4).JPG

there it is

Project (3).JPG

the owner contracted for all of the cables above

includes an extra CPU cable extension & my liqwid CPU kooling adapter (Corsair H80i etc)


- Bonus How-to Project - 

Mind-Meld a new / better Liqwid Kooler into your 51

51mm (2).JPG

if you can't find the 5pin SL? Back the 5pin off of your old kooler & re-use it (=

51mm (3).JPG

51mm (4).JPG

above: SATA (12v / ground) + fan (rpm-tach)

below: basic 3pin fan power

51mm (1).JPG

for more details about making your own liqwid cooling adapter, use forum search terms:

  • The ALX-Files: Operation Mind-Meld Command Center Retrofit Corsair = Corsware
  • My Project: The Area-51 AlienMaster (Stock Cooler Replacement)

when owner / buyer #53 sends me pics of his 1500i swap soon I'll edit them in here

Qwik Lesson: EVGA 1200 P2 Build

Kit (6).jpg

AClub Forum Member MXOWinterMute gets a hand-made 10p + extension + working AlienFx

Winter contracted me to make a swap kit for his 1200watter

  • note that 5VSB is again tapped / jumped from a Sneaky Petey 10pin extension adapter
  • 5VSB jumper wire is sent through a 4pin male female break-away connect to MIO pin5
  • 8pin modular captures x3 12volt + x3 ground
  • 6pin modular captures 5v / Ground / 3.3v
  • MIO 10pin in harmony with our Reference Photo, relative to EVGA T2 P2 G2 Color Pinout

 lucky Club member gets AlienFx & admirable 1200watter >< I get paid for my time & trouble ...

1200 P2.jpg

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5355.MIO (2).JPG

2211.MIO (3).JPG

SP (1).JPG

SP (2).JPG

SP (3).JPG


WinterMute will debut his Asus motherboard swap & EVGA 1200P2 PSU buildlog soon

I'll edit the link in here after he does


can you tell the several differences between these four models?

how obvious is it that none of their cables are meant to interchange?

do you know how to find the pinout for the CoolerMaster by Seasonic? To build an MIO with?

more questions? find answers in my original swap guide ...

Aurora R4 Seasonic 1000 Swap

Ss 1000 (1).JPG

February 14, 2015 I posted about my Seasonic X-1250 & custom cables swap here:

The ALX-Files: A Triad of Power Supply Swaps. Area-51 Aurora XPS 730x ... How to Make an Area-51 R1.44 Using the r2's New 1440w Delta ... Lessons In the PSU Swap Done Right

Copy / paste the link to see what I did to get the cables done ...

I bought my 4th Area-51 R1 in August 2016, I pulled the 80Gold 1250 out of my R4 above, & swapped in a more appropriate brand new 1000w Platinum, details shown below ... this was a super fast swap

Ss 1000 (9).JPG

the Plati came with its on new cable pouch, but I won't need these, I'm using my black set

Ss 1000 (2).JPG

old Seasonic removed, R4 is on my work bench, ready for a new power plant

Ss 1000 (3).JPG

Ss 1000 (4).JPG

Ss 1000 (5).JPG

cables are pre-installed, I slide the chassis in, using paper to protect the sides

Ss 1000 (6).JPG

 Ss 1000 (7).JPG

in about 5minutes, everything's hooked up, & the rear trim can go on

Ss 1000 (8).JPG

Let there be 80Plus Platinum Light ...

My 4th 51 R1 will run Seasonic's X-1250 with Custom Antec / Delta 1300w Cables


my soul desire for a successful swap is to grab 5vSB purple, then tap the CPU 8pin & SATA 6pin, wired up based on the MIO 10pin Reference Photo. I'll need a 24pin extension set also ...

1300 wires.jpg

Antec 1300 HCP cables, ordered direct from Antec

Pouch is $26 / shipped, they tossed in a 2nd 24pin cable for $5 as material for the 10 / 18 extensions I need. I'll rebuild this mostly 16gauge wire set to comply with Seasonic's 1250 pinout, & cut to size


I used up a huge bag of premium Molex Gold over Phosphor Bronze 16g terminals on 100% of the cable ends ... to remove all old pins & apply new, made this a very labor intensive project indeed

1731.cables continued  (22).JPG

2311.Antextensions (120).JPG

Finale (39).JPG

the results are well worth the effort

Finale (29).JPG

Finale (15).JPG

Finale (12).JPG

Finale (18).JPG

Finale (17).JPG

lookin' good

I've made extensions for the 24pin ATX cable - 10pin & 18pin branches - about 7inches or 180mm

Finale (4).JPG

5vSB has been tapped from the 10p extension & uses a 2pin break away to direct it to MIO 10p

MIO taps the CPU 8pin port for x3 12volts x3 grounds & taps SATA 6pin for 3v / 5v / grd

Finale (8).JPG

Building the MIO 10pin

cables continued  (6).JPG

I'm using 16gauge wires for MIO (5vSB = x2 20gauge purple joined with an 18gauge black)

cables continued  (7).JPG

cables continued  (11) copy.JPG

cables continued  (11a).JPG

3005.cables continued  (12).JPG

here's where I stopped taking photos for some reason, but you've seen the results already. I'll use a voltmeter to find all the wires, pop the connectors on & secure the sleeves ...

Making the 10pin 18pin Extension Pair

Antextensions (0) copy.JPG

the power supply side of the 24pin ATX cable branches into a 10p / 18p, & I'll need about a 7inch extension set to help it reach, coming right up. The 10pin branch is where I'll grab 5vSB from

Antextensions (1).JPG

any wires with old pins on them will be removed 1st, then new pins go on

Antextensions (31).JPG

working the 5vSB jumper & making it fatter

Antextensions (34).JPG

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cables continued  (1).JPG

3364.cables continued  (3).JPG

CPU 8pin


CPU (11).JPG


SATA / Molex

cables continued  (5) - Copy.JPG

all cable lengths are fine, I backed the terminals out, applied new pins, pop connex back on

Video Grfx Cables

cables continued  (13).JPG

x3 22inch vid-cables were cut down to a more manageable 11 13 & 15 inches

cables continued  (15) - Copy.JPG

cables continued  (18).JPG

cables continued  (21).JPG


done (1).JPG



done (2) - Copy.JPG

cable set & 1250watt are installed & working

Final Lesson: Individually Sleeved Cables

Making MIO a Part of Your Matched Set


*Sneaky Petey: remember, you can always try to make a short (2"-3") 10pin extension, tapped 5VSB ... the mini-extension / adapter as seen in the EVGA P2 section; the remnant of your spare CPU cable can be used as the material, in an effort not to fool with the costly sleeved 24pin 

*Note: I have to make my own MIO 10Pin cables, I have no choice in the matter

*Note: if you buy a boxed set of individually sleeved cables (Corsair / EVGA / Seasonic etc), you'll get extra cables in your box --> you can use those, cut them up as your matching material

To power your MIO using those sleeved spare cables as your materials - I suggest that if you need to tap an 8pin & a 6pin port, or dual 6pins as I'll be doing, whatever the case may be, you have the chance to cut up your spare cables ... example statements, at a bare minimum, be aware:

  • you should get x2 CPU 8pin cables, so use the spare, cut it to 7inches
  • you should get spare Molex 4pin & spare SATA cables with a 6pin end on them, so cut the 6pin PSU end to 7inches
  • take advantage of the factory 8pin / 6pin ends with factory terminals + wires
  • you will have to back out any extra wires/pins that won't be needed, ok?
  • the cut cable ends will of course need new PSU terminals crimped on 
  • buy 10 PSU terminals, buy an empty 10pin connector ( etc) to assemble the MIO end of your hand-made cable
  • figure out your 5volts StandBy vs Standard 5volts for MIO pin#5 (purple)
  • if you decide to tap 5vSB from the 24pin ATX, get a voltmeter, probe pin #9 of the 24pin, find where it is at the PSU end of the cable, back that pin out & jump into it
  • use 2pin / 4pin male / female connectors like I do, as your 5VSB jumper wire

5VSB MIO pin#5 too difficult to contemplate? Make it Standard 5volts, I showed you how in the 1600 P2 section, right? Methods 1, 2, 3 ...

Above: spare CPU cable provides the 7" 8pin end, spare Molex cable provides the 7" 6pin end:

  • note: some wires are backed out (one can become your MIO pin#5 wire)
  • 10 new PSU terminals have to be applied to MIO end
  • use the Reference Photo & Corsair Proven Pinout to get the wires correct at both ends

Above, pin#5 (purple) wire is housed in a 4pin female, while the matching black sleeved 24pin cable (photo'd earlier in the EVGA 1600 section, remember?), it was tapped 5vSB, with a short jumper wire that has its own 4pin male, the way I always do it: wired to factory specs

Tip: as we know, Corsair PSU's have two Standard red 5volt pins in each 6pin SATA port, to make things easy ('turn' 5VSB to Standard 5V) - or you can jump to a 5V pin -

  • but you can always isolate pin#5 (purple) wire into its own 6pin to grab Standard 5volts ... 

... just tap into another open front panel SATA port; that simply requires buying (or having) an extra (empty) 6pin connector to pop your wire into (6pin, or whatever connector type your PSU has to deliver SATA power with) ... in that scenario, MIO would have these connector ends as an example:

  • 8pin (x3 12v + x4 ground)
  • 6pin (3v + 5v)
  • 6pin (5v) = 5vSB 'turned' into Standard 5v

yes, pin#5 (purple) wire can be placed / isolated into its own 6pin to grab 5volts

these ideas are for your benefit ... now let me show you what kind of ideas I had for my Alien

Area-51 R1.44

the Knight Fury's Purple & Black Attack

Using the A-51 R2 1500w | 1440w 12volt Max Delta PSU

MIO  (12).JPG

note: no 24pin 'extensions' required

Remember how my Seasonic 1250 with the Antec 24pin ATX cable is actually 31" long (24" ATX + 7" extensions)? Due to the soft flexible nature of these individually sleeved wires and how I route the 24pin cable (in a later photo), I do not need to make extensions for this 24inch / 610mm ATX cable to reach from motherboard to PSU ports; therefore I'll tap 5VSB from the 24pin itself; that jumper wire is housed in the purple 6pin connector (above photo)

0045.front panel.jpg

unless you do your own custom wiring?

51 R2's '1500watt' is a poor choice for our R1 chassis: buy something else, ok?


3276.Front Panel PinOut.JPG

MIO  (4).JPG

I've debuted this cable set before, but this time, I'm upgrading all of it


Custom Case Harness using CableMod's Pre-Sleeved Set for Material

This is CableMod's $110 Corsair Black boxed set; their 18gauge wire & budget 18g PSU terminals will be yanked out in favor of 150 feet of MainFrame Customs / Lutro0 16gauge thin-jacket wire & 200 Molex premium Gold-tipped 16g pins; I'll disassemble all of this boxed wiring just to have the soft paracord sleeves to start with ... it's a labor-intensive project of epic proportions

I'm going to tap 5vSB from my 24pin; later you'll see that with my PSU plugged in but with system off I get 5vSB power (MIO LED & interior theater lighting works with power off). If you turn MIO pin#5 into Standard 5volts (by grabbing red 5volts somewhere off of your front panel in a SATA port), you lose those features (Standard 5volts is only live when the system is turned on) ... I've gone over & will continue to go over 5vSB vs Standard 5volts, relative to pin#5 purple, in this post & my Original Guide later below on the page you're viewing

- MIO 10pin Cable -






(a few days after these pics, I took the purple 10pin connector off for a black one)

- x6 SATA Hard Drive Bays -


the case's black-wire hard drive bay couplings that lead to your actual hard drives? They only have x4 wires (3.3volt is unused), therefore I stopped making 5-wire SATA cables, it's pointless


- Main SATA / DVD Bay Cable -


- 710mm or 28" CPU Cable -

7043.CPU  (1).JPG

CPU  (2) - Copy.JPG_CPUCPU  (15).JPG 
Since it's a small ordeal to get the old CPU cable out & the new one in, I've installed mine, where it will stay. It won't be part of the final photo shoot of the finished (pre-install) case harness

- 24pin ATX Cable -

24p  (1).JPG

24p  (2).JPG


24p  (3).JPG

- Set of Three Grfx Video Cables 12" 13" 15" -

Grfx (0).JPG

Grfx (0a).JPG

Grfx (1).JPG

Grfx (2).JPG

Grfx (3).JPG

- Finished Case Harness -

4743.MIO (1).JPG

3755.MIO (2).JPG

HDD Sata (1).JPG

reduced SATA 6pin count on the front panel means a y-splitter powers both HDD cables)

HDD Sata (2).JPG

24p (4a).JPG


Msata (3).JPG

Grfx (5).JPG

Grfx (12).JPG

Grfx (16).JPG

OverView (4).JPG

- Install Time -

Install  (1).JPG

PSU floor brace removed ... CPU cable, Hard Drive Bays SATA cables pre-installed

Install  (2).JPG

Mthrbrd 24pin and Main SATA / DVD cables pre-installed

Install  (3).JPG

Before the PSU goes into the case, I've plugged in the MIO cable, Grfx pair & the y-splitter into the front panel, then push the PSU + cables into the case, all at the same time to avoid plugging all of those in later (hand-room decreases fast down in there)

Install  (4).JPG

with PSU chassis pushed in 3/4 of the way, I can now start to plug the Main Sata, 24p, HDD Sata & CPU 8pin into the front panel ports

Install  (11).JPG

note I'm using a simple screen to prevent screws from falling into the open fan grille, & as a dust filter, You can buy 140mm x 140mm fan dust filters if you like, for the same reasons

Install  (10).JPG

Install  (8).JPG

most aftermarket power supply video-cables are 24" - 29", very long

I've sized mine to a more manageable 12 / 13 / 15 ... the 13" set is installed

the idea above is, the TOP card is about to be powered by my 13" Grfx cables, while also knowing the shroud sill has to close, which it does. That is nice, since I also made a 15" set. When I do X-Fire (or SLI) later, the 15" set will go in of course, to power the top card, while this 13" set will drop down to power the middle card, & yes the shroud will close when using these shorter custom-sized cables ... last, if I ever did three vid-cards, my 3rd 12" Grfx cables set would power the very bottom card without issue

Install  (12).JPG

Power Up (1).JPG

Power Up (2).JPG

Power Up (3).JPG

Power Up (4).JPG

Power Up (6).JPG

I started this last week, I'm glad I wired it up right ...

An Epic 24k 16gauge Project

the Knight Fury's Purple & Black Attack is the Swan Song to my time here at AlienClub


this is my last Forum Entry ... after 4years, it is time for us to retire now



- What We Do in Life Echoes in Eternity -

Beautyand theBeast.png


Climax the Wall


May the Force be with You







3 Replies
2 Bronze

RE: The ALX-Files: On a Theoretical Approach to the Area 51 Power Supply Swap Corsair ax-1200i ax-1500i Hale90 Seasonic x-1250 New A-51 R2 1500w Psu

Thank You Very Much for Posting This!!

I have a New Old XPS 730 h2c, that was in storage since new. I just retrieved it and it's having strange electrical problems such as usb noise based on power usage, right channel hdmi sound static noise, random bsods and even bios and startup hard freezes, especially when playing 4k video or 60 fps 1080p video (has quad sli 9800 gx2s).

Since it was tucked away in storage I never got to use the warranty, so Hopefully I can rewire a Corsair AX1200i to this system and have it run right!


0 Kudos
5 Tungsten

RE: The ALX-Files: On a Theoretical Approach to the Area 51 Power Supply Swap Corsair ax-1200i ax-1500i Hale90 Seasonic x-1250 New A-51 R2 1500w Psu

Slick Vick, what's up. GMan & I collaborated on 730x + ax1200i, here @ the top:

MIO 10pin: the Reference Photo


Power supply & computer cables tend to be universal colors, like black ground, orange 3volt, red 5volt, purple 5volt stand-by & yellow 12volt:

  • above & throughout Area-51 case harness, Dellware uses white, blue & yellow for 12volts
  • 12volts tends to be the one voltage type a manufacturer plays with color-wise

If your NEW cables are all black or individually sleeved, have no fear, there are wiring diagrams here or online which explain all common connector types like Molex | Sata | CPU | 24p ATX, which are the four basic types you'll work with & tap into when building your very own 10pin

guide - Copy.JPG

The new power supply front panel can be pinned out whichever way the engineers decide, then the cable wires/pins are pushed into modular connectors in such a way or pattern that ensures the HARDWARE DEVICE end of the cable puts out the volts / grounds seen in the chart above. A voltmeter can interrogate the front panel or the cables or both, to resolve the front panel pinout scheme: the pinout scheme is what you'll go by to push MIO wire pins into modular connectors 

Have, buy or borrow a VOLTMETER when assembling your MIO 10pin

consult a computer shop or audio shop

Show them the Reference Photo & your original U647R case harness, tell them that you want to power supply swap: it should be a breeze for a Wiring Pro to make you what you need, ok?

July 21 2015: Another new case harness for my girl Alien

all hand-made cables & I'll discuss the mio 10pin. I've used 16gauge wire & gold pins 'everywhere':



two cables wearing three sata-heads for x6 hard-drive bays wrapped in a single sleeve


here an 11inch & 15inch set of grfx-cables; 3rd set is 13 inches & in use for vid-duty


a 30 inch 24pin ATX cable - note it's been over-sized & does not use an 'extension' to reach Hale90

- {the 26 inch Cpu 8pin & 32 inch Main Sata weren't photo'd prior to install} -


MIO 10pin

All 10 wires wear new female psu-pins at both ends; the purple 10p part is done, all pins clicked in place, & now the other end, the power supply end needs built. Assorted materials I need to finish the harness are shown (modular psu connex, heatshrink, zips etc). Optional black 10p shown

f (2) - Copy.JPG

f (4).JPG

the 10pin end's been sleeved, zip-tied, heat shrink


next, slip on the other heatshrink, pop on the modular connectors, push sleeve up, zip-tie, heat-shrink

0576.f (7).JPG


f (7b).JPG

built. 10pin's done, tapped 5volts stand-by (24pin ATX is next harness in line to make)

the solo-wire you saw above in the final three pics is the very beginning of what's to be my 24pin atx cable; it's the '5volt stand-by' wire normally meant for the mthrbrd, but our MIO daughterboard wants 5vsb too so I've 'tapped into' the 24p ATX & designed a discrete short jumper wire to dangle off, wearing 2pin connex that clip together ... use of a small 2p (or 4p) break-away connect lends ease-of-use during installation in order to attach|detach MIO from 24pin ATX harness when needed

The case harness you just saw was entirely hand-made for my NZXT Hale90 1200watt:








Install Day  (15).JPG

Alien FX: let there be Light

8.11.16 | Permanent Vacation

I'll no longer field qwestions & hold hands through each individual swap, my time in this forum is over, I graduated. I've posted gobs of info here all in one place to best help you through your swap & hand-made cable experience. Over the past ~3years I've made 6 full custom case harnesses for myself & sold 17 full case harnesses, sold 32 basic MIO 10pin PSU Swap kits to other owners, that makes 54 confirmed kills; I've a dozen left over 10pins here, so I've put together close to 70 of these *** things: posted below represents what I've learned in my experience making cables, it's quite a headache I've assembled over time, but it's necessary, since there's no room for user wiring error.

So about 2months ago a member posts in the forum, he thinks my Guide here is too difficult to go by, regardless all of the photos & explanations, & all he wants is an easy 'basic' 10pin harness, one that will work, with an easy guide to go by, something he can make as easily as possible, in as few words as possible. I'm thinking to myself, there are 6 ways to make these, maybe 10 ways, there is no 'one way' ... lmdao

That is because no two power supplies tend to be the same:

  • they might use different connectors
  • might use sleeved vs ribbon cables (ie what material will you use to make a cable?)
  • where will you get the connectors, wires, sleeve, psu pins from?
  • will you tap the 8pin & 6pin port? Tap two 6pin ports?
  • will you tap 5volts Stand-by or by-pass it? If so, how?
  • will you use the original MIO 10pin, or start from scratch & make a brand new one?

How do I construct an easy basic guide, when I have no idea what your plans are, what your starting materials are, what your skill level is, what your power supply model is or what your 'vision' of your MIO cable is? 


is the vision this? or is it this?


because this is my vision for all of us: a matched set

But you just saw 'basic' MIO 10p harnesses: Frankenstein, & the other a parasitic cable


so here ya go: basic 24pin extension = a color-coded splice & dice

  • use the Reference Photo & a 24p ATX Diagram to match all volts grounds


steal the 10pin cable off of your case harness or buy a U647R case harness for $20 or less:

  • note the Parasitic cable is very short, his was a Test Harness only

To lengthen yours, get some extra long wire, steal it from your U647R or the one you bought (or will buy) to replace it:

  • Use of a 24pin Extension / Adapter - the Parasitic Method - works, but it robs your motherboard & system of powa in the process

Let's try to make one instead, using the U647R case harness 10pin & empty modular connex


remove the 10pin from a U647R case harness, & this is what you'll get

some wires will or won't have pins afterwards because some MIO wires 'jump' onto a pin with another wire, two wires spliced onto one pin, two wires share a pin etc:


Factory PSU Pins are 'cheap' = fragile & delicate: be careful with yours

  • if you further disassemble your U647R, you can 'steal' the missing PSU pins
  • the best ones to steal are 'jumper' pins, a pin with two wires
  • carefully yank a wire out, then other wire should come out easy, then re-use the pin(s)
  • needle nose pliers can help effect a new crimp (you can improve it with a light solder job)
  • 1st pull white plastic PSU pin locks out: those are there to stop pins from backing out

10p (1).JPG

U657R? Oops. I have different plans for this 10p, like snipping off all the original cheap PSU pins & crimping on brand new Molex premium ones, but your original ones can be re-used in a pinch

66pin pins.jpg

grab a needle, thumbtack or similar tool & back the pins out of the 66pin bulk connector



male | female PSU pins have two 'arms' which are splayed, so that pins click | lock in place. your tool attacks the arms on either side, compressing flattening them, so the pins will back out:

  • if you back a pin out & want to re-use it again?
  • use a fine tool to gently splay the arms back out
  • the arms need splayed again, so pin clicks in place when inserted into a connector


new female pin with lock arms splayed, or 'set'

when re-using a pin, take a micro flat-blade screw driver tip & 'open' the wire crimp sections apart a little, to help facilitate pushing a new wire back in ... afterwards, re-crimp with a needlenose plier. Remember to reset (splay) the pin lock arms afterwards. new male pin shown below



left: female connector (it houses female pins) >< right: male connector, houses male pins

10p (1) - Copy.JPG

from earlier: x3 12v | x4 Ground | x1 3v | x1 5v | x1 5vSB

  • try to group the x3 12v + x4 ground into your modular CPU 8pin (finished pic later below)
  • group the 3v + 5v into a 6pin (or whatever your PSU has for SATA/Molex port)

now 'decide' what to do about your 5VSB purple wire


Every Aftermarket 24pin ATX cable has x1 5VSB wire >< above, Dellware has 'jumped' 5VSB

  • MIO dangling out of the 66pin is why these are Proprietary Case Harnesses & PSUs
  • 5VSB: x1 for mthrbrd 24pin ATX + x1 for MIO 10pin
  • MIO 'wants' 5VSB, however it is difficult to tap into it without 'modding' / tapping into the 24p in your new cable pouch ...

Grabbing 5VSB from a new basic modular pouched 24pin is why we might like to purchase:

  • a 24p extension, as from earlier, Parasitic 'tap' into the $8 extension instead
  • maybe you can buy a spare 24p to tap, as with ax1200i = $19 each/shipped (tap the modular end in the case floor area, off of the 10/14 branch ie at the psu modular end of cable)
  • tap the one you bought, then look for a spare later, if an unmolested cable cures your OCD


24pin ATX cable: direct tap of 5VSB using various methods, blue side-by-side connex anyone?

Plan B? By-pass 5VSB > turn it into 'standard' 5v

5volts stand-by: purple wire is hot 5v with PSU plugged in, rear switch 'on' & system off:

  • MIO Led indicator is on, motherboard LED on (they're jumped together in the 66pin right?)
  • Theater lights won't use batteries, they will run off your 5volts SB
  • A51 ALX front motorized panel should drop down with system plugged in but off

5volts standard: red wires are hot 5v only when system is turned on

M1 (2).JPG

turn purple 5VSB into standard (red) 5v: you lose SB features, but gain a hassle-free working system when you change out the power supply:

  • Method #1, when using Corsair ax1200i --> tap into the 2nd red 5volt center slot that is normally un-used
  • BEWARE: other power supplies may or may not have an un-used 5volt
  • having a voltmeter handy can help resolve what the un-used slot is in a 6pin PSU port, after you find out what it is, you may be able to use it to your wiring advantage, or maybe not lol


SATA is 3v Grd 5v Grd 12v = 5wires >< Molex power is 5v Grd Grd 12v = 4wires

  • NZXT uses a 5pin single-row, but also above, the 6pin (3x3) prevails in the market

sata 5wire.JPG

SATA power, which uses 5 WIRES?

S6p (2).JPG

in a 6pin SATA device PSU modular connector ... 5 slots are filled ... 1 slot is always empty

sometimes the PSU engineers keep the empty slot / pin alive

it may be an unused ground, 3v, 5v or 12v: probe it with your voltmeter to find out what it is

ax1200i? the empty un-used pin is 5volts: TAP IT

color pin out Airene.jpg

fun diagram, right?

ax1200i modular panel: note Peripheral (Molex 4pin) & SATA 6pins have x2 red 5V pins (x1 = unused)

See Method #1 photo again: the red & purple wire can use top center 5volts in your SATA 6pin:

  • it so happens, Corsair ax1200i has an unused 5v pin, so the 5VSB (purple) can go up there, while the 'standard' 5v red can go in the bottom

Most PSUs won't have an unused 5v (red) ... if yours does? TAP it

if your cables are all black? I keep saying purple? figure it out, since this is a U647R build

Remember, when 5-wire SATA modular cables plug in with a 6pin connect, one slot in the 6pin is always empty. Seasonics tend to have an open un-used 12v in their 6pin ports (see panel below)

  • dual 12volt pins may not help ... or will they???
  • dual 12v can help, yes, it means MIO can use a pair of 6pin ports to tap into, right?
  • right. but I'll get to that later

For now, ax1200i users are taken care of (slap a 6pin & 8pin on your MIO, you're done now right?). For other owners, like Seasonic owners?, you can 'jump' the red & purple wire onto one PSU pin (See Method #2), where I show you to push both wires crimped onto one pin into your solo 5volt slot. Do that, bam, you're done, that's a valid by-pass method


Method #3: isolate purple 5VSB in its own 6pin, make it tap red 5volts standard from another port

yes, I can foresee someone buying a type of PSU that needs that method #3

4718.x1250 (2).jpg

Seasonic X1250 has an unused 12volt (yellow) instead, so Method #2 or #3 can be used to tap the x1 red 5V pin replicated inside of each SATA 6pin port

Looking at ax1200i & X1250, MIO can tap the CPU 8pin & any SATA 6pin, ok?

  • x3 12v + x4 ground in the 8pin
  • x1 3v x1 5v x1 5VSB from a 6pin or isolate 5VSB into another 6pin
  • note: for X1250, if tap CPU 8pin, the top 12pin is your new optional CPU 8pin port 

regardless, see a basic by-passed 6pin 8pin MIO below


chances are, yours will look similar to mine above


chances are, yours will look similar to mine above

wait, I just said that.

Go back up & compare ax1200i to X-1250:

  • they have very different modular front panel pin assignments
  • very few power supplies are pinned the same
  • figure out your front panel pin assignment scheme & build your 8pin / 6pin correct
  • I mean your dual 6pin? lol
  • if you do? MIO will work
  • (=

how about simplicity? MainFrame


figure out your PSU Pin Assignment Diagram, use the Reference Photo for MIO 10pin end,

by-pass 5VSB & build a sleeved black harness in like 45 minutes for like $15

need dual 6pins? need an 8p + dual 6ps to isolate 5VSB?

need help splicing wires together? Red/Purple on same PSU pin?

Ask MainFrame to jumper your 5V/5VSB wires together so they fit a 6pin 5V slot / pin

ask them ...

Method #1 #2 #3 are valid by-pass methods

need new 16gauge PSU pins? Order them too ...

they're better than 18gauge pins

So! FireAza asked for a 'basic' 'easy' How-To

a simple way to power supply swap & have an MIO 10pin


just not easily explained, sorry brother, I tried, just now, tried to explain this in easy terms

original U647R MIO or buy pre-made wires & empty connex

I even edited in the 'easy guide' at the top of the post for you

what lurks below are ... Advanced Methods

My Professional Kit

Nice looks. Nice fit

1007.Hx (9).JPG

note: a dual 6pin for Corsair, not an 8p + 6p *wink* (I jumped x2 12v wires into same slot)


above, recent Summer 2016 swap using Corsair & my Pro Kit you just saw

  • I gave customer the choice of sleeved or matching ribbons Pro Kit
  • after sending this photo of a successful swap, customer shopped, bought a new sleeved 24pin + sleeved CPU 8pin, dumped most of the ribbon cables

Go look at ax1200i & X-1250 again; see how they only have x1 5VSB (purple) pin in the front panel where the 24p ATX cable plugs into? That's because a conventional computer only has to send x1 5VSB wire just to the motherboard (to help power USB devices when the system is plugged in but 'off') & because I like to wire things for myself & other people BACK TO FACTORY SPECS I needs to tap into that solo 5VSB pin, somehow

Above?, Pro Kit?, I've 'tapped' into 5VSB, by making a pair of extensions, tapped 5VSB from the extension, the 10pin half or branch of it:

  • example: ax1200i 24pin has a 10p + 14p branch, X-1250 has a 10p + 18p branch
  • 5VSB is tapped from the 10pin branch & bridges to MIO over a 4pin break away connect

why a 24pin (10 + 14 or 10 + 18 etc) extension?


(the following photo set is a dis-assembled U647R case harness with modular connex built on)

Well, if you route back to stock & send your 24pin ATX up the black snap-lok cable organizer, the bottom modular connector(s) tends to stop short:

  • my extensions bridge the gap to the PSU panel
  • my extension is a good place to tap 5VSB without molesting the new 24pin ATX cable
  • ok?

(ummm, actually, this was my 1st case harness, I tapped the 24p's purple for some dumb reason)

all my other ventures, I tap at the modular end, labeled below as 10p (see my Pro Kit earlier)




somewhere in all of this tangle of wire is a working MIO & a happy Alien sipping off 1250w of juice

this is the 'why' of making your own extension:

  • route back to stock, bridge the gap to PSU panel, have a place to tap 5VSB without modding into the new 24pin ATX cable
  • if you ever sell your power supply, no cables get modded this way

YOU THERE? u can easily get away with the cable below, & so could I


  • x10 new female PSU pins (optional)
  • x1 empty 6pin x1 empty 8pin
  • crimp (solder: optional) the pins onto your wires
  • figure out your front panel CPU / PCI-E 8pin & SATA / Molex (peripheral) pin assignments
  • place the 3v 5v 12v Ground into the correct slots, til the PSU pins click in place

got it?

If you by-passed 5VSB, & made a 10p like above, using the U647R case harness MIO 10p:

  • your new 24pin ATX will plug directly into the PSU & motherboard
  • see the piped lime green build? his ribbon 24pin by-passed the snap-lok

it is possible you can't use the black snap-lok like you used to, if the 24p won't reach

  • if so, maybe a portion of the 24p can go in, meaning some clamps won't snap shut
  • u might try to buy a basic 24pin extension for the end of it, although it might be (look) bulky


next to last photo, then my edits are done: your new CPU 8pin cable

The old CPU 8pin was like 51inches long, that's too long (too much resistance), the new CPU 8pin will be like 24" - 26" & half the resistance, & you can route it a different way this time:

  • my Seasonic cable is 26", so it just reaches the top optional CPU power port

the alternative is this: go up the snap-lok & dive left to your CPU 8pin port

3678.A51 Rebuild.jpg

my Spring 2016 customer sent me this photo, he titled it 'A51 Rebuild' ... that it certainly is

he's using ax1200i, which comes with a 24inch CPU cable, just a tad short to route like my Seasonic 26incher:

  • to route like my Seasonic? He would need an 8pin CPU / EPS extension
  • short CPU / EPS extensions plug into the PSU 1st, then your 24" cable goes the rest of the way to the motherboad
  • that way, the bulky connexion stays in the case floor area, hidden & with room

as you see, he solved the problem a different way
(pssst: did you use my Guide & make your own MIO 10pin? Post it here & show off your work)



this owner contacted me from Norway, he used my Pro Guide to hand-make his MIO 10pin


a matched set woulda been shweet ... git her done!


this is my last PSU Swap Guide edit ... after ~3years, it is time for me to retire now

3482.Awesome Red Area 51 Cosmic.jpg

Let there be Light

Summer 2016: yet another ax1200i | 1500i MIO 10pin cable build

owner's photo of successful swap was posted earlier above: Asus 'A51 Rebuild' (1).JPG

basic starter material from your new pouch might be the spare CPU cable & Molex 4pin

  • toss the 4+4, keep the solid 8, steal the 6pin off the Molex ribbon 4p
  • re-use the black sleeve & heatshrink, use the wires & factory female pins (2).JPG

you may have to buy your own extra psu pins & connectors, try here: (3).JPG

I did not disassemble a spare CPU 8pin cable nor remove the 6pin off of a spare Molex, but if I needed to in order to get half the material together, I certainly could. However, the 10wire pins pushed into the MIO 10pin above, do have factory pins on them, & I've crimped / soldered my own brand new psu pins on the other end, which await the 6pin 8pin 4pin connectors I have

ax (5) - Copy.JPG

ax (7).JPG

the 4pin with one wire in it is for 5volts stand-by, or MIO purple pin #5

if you can't tap into your front panel's 5VSB (shown below purple), you can still turn pin#5 into standard 5volts. Example below suggests to tap the SATA 6pin bottom center 5v for pin #10 5v, & tap the top center of the 6pin (which is also 5volts) and route it directly to pin #5

  • MIO 10pin #5 purple should be 5v stand-by: tap into it if you can
  • if you can't, 'turn' it into standard 5volts, by tapping into top center 6pin
  • ok? 

ax-1200i pinout - Copy.jpg

Above Far Right: MIO 10pin connector pin / slot #5 is shown half red & half purple to signify that pin #5 can be wired as 5volts STAND-BY (5vsb) or standard 5volts, depending on your wiring scheme

Above Center: Corsair SATA 6pin top center pin / slot has a hollow red circle to signify an additional pin / slot to tap standard 5volts from

*note: not all power supplies have two 5volt pins. Corsair's do ... one is used for the SATA / Molex cable they provide while the additional (top) 5v pin is unused

below: 24pin ATX (10p / 14p) extension + MIO 10p harness

  • I've tapped or jumped into the 10pin branch of the extension to grab 5Vsb
  • I've routed it to the MIO 10pin over a break-away 4pin connector

ready for ax1200i >< ready for ax1500i

ready for Area-51 (8).JPG


- Other Power Supplies -

8802.x1250 (2).jpg

as you saw, Corsair ax1200i / 1500i (all Corsair Type3 cables) have an additional 5volt pin, with which to tap & easily turn your MIO pin #5 from what it used to get (5vsb) into standard 5volts

Seasonic's however have two 12volt pins (one is unused)

How do we grab two standard 5volt (red) wires from only one 5v pin?

Make a 5volt Jumper | Splitter Wire


While I'm at it, I'll show you how to back a pin out. I'm using a thin flat-blade tip & a 'rod' to keep the pin inside from deforming as I press down. If you're taking a CPU 8pin apart to use as material, you'll need to back a wire/pin out anyway --> it will start with 8 wires but you only need 7:

  • MIO needs x3 12volt & x4 ground
  • I'll back a wire pin out to replicate what can be done to a spare CPU 8pin cable


now there are 7 wires / pins left, this stand-in material is ready to use



to make a pair of 7inch wires, start with a 14 inch wire, strip the insulation in the middle, crimp (& solder) a pin on it, then make sure the other end has pins too

my camera is a junky $60 Polaroid, supposed 18Mega-pixel, but it's bad on closeups

let's try that again, using old photos when it used to work



regardless the final length, it can be tedious jumping two separate 18gauge wires onto one 18g pin, let alone a larger 16g pin, & I find it best to use the above technique: using single wires & 'turning' or splitting them into two. As you can see, so long as a pair of wire is joined to one pin, you can tap a standard 5volt pin off of your power supply SATA/peripheral port & route it to both the pin#5 & pin #10 of your MIO to het it the 5volt power it needs in a jiffy

End Summer 2016 Edit

How To Deal With Your Alien's 10pin MI/O Cable -

Illustrated ideas & procedures article for how to make the required master i/o (alienFx-liquid cooling) daughterboard wire harness for a power suppy unit (psu) swap in Area-51.

*** Author's Disclaimer ***

Our stock psu's & many aftermarket types are designed w/what are called "multiple" 12volt rails; each "rail" has its own "over-current-protection" circuitry - ocp - like a circuit breaker); it's obvious if you wire a new multi-rail unit up right it will work as good as the stock unit does; however, regardless if it's a single 12v rail or multi-12v-rail psu, the fact remains that to do a psu swap we have to hand-fabricate a harness for the mio board, & the element of user error may creep into the equation as the result:

  • performance/shut-down issues, permanent damage to your equipment, fire, & death may result as your consequence if you wire yours up "wrong"
  • to overcome such hazards, I'll bring my wiring experience to bear on a discussion of safe bench-testing routines for your psu/harness tandem & recommend sensible modular ports to tap
  • you'll need to research your particular 12v rail psu, the way it's designed, its manufacturer stated policies on safe wiring procedures etc, & whatever considerations must be taken account of so far as ocp-circuitry & "add-on" equipment like an mio
  • when buying a new psu, be sure to go over its specs; things as simple as short-circuit protection & over-current-protection are important features for it to have
  • the use of a hand-made cable, like the one we need to make, would be considered a "non-approved" cable by your manufacturer & possibly void your warranty if they find out about it; but your secret's safe with me ... & maybe only me

My wiring experience dates back to the mid-90's & my recent psu swap experience was learned from single 12v rail style psu's. Applying the single 12v-rail strategies found in this article to a multiple 12v-rail psu may or may not be applicable, may or may not be helpful, have not been tested & may be a performance/safety & fire hazard issue for you if you attempt to use them. A more in-depth talk about 12v rails is found later below; read & understand what you've read before you begin using your new psu/mio tandem.


The Top 10 Things You Need To Know:

Through eBay, I get all kings of questions: one common misconception is that all power supply cables are identical, it simply isn't true. Corsair ax1200 & ax1200i cables do not interchange for instance. All modular power supply cables are & have to be wired identical on the hardware end, but are rarely identical on the modular power supply end of the cable. Manufacturers can wire the psu end of the cable however they need to, so not all cables interchange (even if they plug in ok, that hardly matters) & if you use the wrong cable(s) for your psu, you can burn up your stuff qwickly as the result. If you buy new or used cables, separate from your psu purchase, make sure they are correct for your psu. If they aren't, you will need to back the wires-pins out of the modular connector & 'pin it out' correctly so it will work. My Hale90 psu is using an Antec cable set, where I 'rebuilt' that set to Hale90 specs. I check in on the forum regularly, I'm subscribed to my own thread here, if you have questions, ask.

The stock psu has a large solo modular bulk connector, 'bottom right' at the mthrbrd wall, w/a 24inch 24pin atx cable; most after-market psu's locate their 24pin atx modular port at the top left & provide you the same 24inch cable. Most standard psu cables will not reach as the result. You will most likely need a 6"-8" 24pin extension to help your cable reach. Also, some cpu 8pin cables may not reach, may be an inch or two too short, if so, you will need a cpu 8pin extension to span the distance. An extension like that is best coupled down in the case floor, not up top at the mthrbrd cpu 8pin port.

The master i/o board, like the mthrbrd, uses a type of 5volts called 5volts stand-by. When the power supply is plugged in but is turned 'off', the psu will kick out only one voltage: 5 volts, it is hot & in 'stand-by mode'. The mthrbrd & mio will light up the tell-tale led as the result, to denote power is present when the system is off, among other things. No 'regular' computer has to supply 5vsb to anything but a motherboard, so there is no provision in the 24pin atx cable to supply your Area-51 with 5vsb to the mio board. In our original stock case harness, 5vsb is 'shared' / 'jumped' to both the mthrbrd & the mio. To re-wire your mio - your system - back to factory specs, you must 'tap' or 'jump' 5vsb from your new 24pin atx cable, the same way our old case harness does this. You will find tips below how to tap it. You do not need to tap it though. If you do not, you must find 'standard' 5volts from somewhere else, & route it to your mio's '5vsb wire'. Standard 5volts only goes hot when you press your power button on, turn your psu on. If you use stndrd 5v instead, your system will work as normal on pwr up, but your system will lose whatever 5vsb features it had before your swap (batteries recharging, ALX front panel motors down w/system off etc). For instance, on ax1200i, its front panel sata connector has two 5volt pins, one is 'unused', so, you could tap your 5vsb wire into that unused slot, to get your system going, but not all psu's have a pair of 5v in their sata ports, Seasonic gives you a 12v pair actually, one 12v is 'unused'. Or grab standard 5volts from some other sata port: most psu's give you 5 or 6 modular sata-peripheral ports, Area-51 likes to use 5, so a psu with 6 can help you 'turn' your mio's 5vsb wire into standard 5v. These issues are discussed later, but you will need to get 5volts, any type of it, to your mio's '5vsb wire' for your mio to get what it needs.

Unless you find a psu who's 24pin atx port(s) is situated in the bottom right like the stock units are, basically all 24inch 24pin atx cables are too short, & you need an extension. I hand-make my own extensions as the result, & when I do I tap or jump into 5vsb on my extension, as I like to deal with the necessary extension down in the case floor area, down at the psu (photos shown throughout) as opposed to buying a typical basic 24p extension & coupling up at the mthrbrd area. All psu's will come w/a standard 24pin end for the mthrbrd, but not all will have the same 24p type for the psu end, most will 'branch' into let us say a 10pin & 14pin or 10p/18p pair as your modular end. There really are no 10p/14p/18p extensions out there to buy, which doesn't help matters. If you go w/a typical 24p extension, you can try to tap 5vsb on it, so as not to molest your real 24p cable they give you. You'll need some form of extension anyway, best to tap into a cheap one & not the 24incher they give you, as sound advice.

  • as a temporary measure to get back up & running, try a basic 24p extension & couple it up at the mthrbrd area - forgo 5vsb as I said earlier - route standard 5v to your mio's 5vsb wire til you figure something else out if it's important to be wired back top spec & look like it too

Most psu makers will give you 24inch video cables. the stock Area-51 video cables are 13inches & 11 inches, so do your best with excess cable, prepare for cable mngmnt.

The three hard drive sata cables in our stock case harnesses use two sata heads per cable. We got three hdd sata cables to power our 6 hard drive bays. If your new sata cable has two sata heads per, use them, knowing you need three of them like you have now. If they give you three or four sata heads per cable, just route two cables to your hard drives (behind the pci-e fan) & hook all 6 of your drive bays to your new sata cable pair. You will note our hdd satas are 5-wire types (supply the orange 3.3v wire), but the actual hard drive power cable that goes to the bay area? It is four wires, does not include 3.3v, (what would have been the ornage 3.3v wire) therefore, you can use your molex cables if need be, so long as they wear a sata adaptor on the end to power your hdd power connex behind the pci-e fan, as you look for the best cable types to use, based on length, connector head count etc.

Your mio only needs the basics: 3.3v, 5v, 5v(sb), 12v & ground. Easily gotten from your new psu. I basically tap an open cpu 8pin for all 12v / ground needs & one 6pin sata port (or 5pin sata as with the Nzxt  Hale90) to supply a mio with remaining 3.3v / 5v needs. I tap 5vsb as the final wire from my 24p extensions but could easily just turn 5vsb into standard 5v if need be from some other sata port. 12v & ground is easy to find in your 8pin cpu port, 3.3 & 5v easily found in your sata ports. see next:

If your psu has 'colored wires', the convention is basically ylw 12v, blk ground, red 5v, org 3.3v, purple 5vsb. Simply looking at your wire color can tell you where to tap in to for your mio. If your wires are all black? Best to get a voltmeter & maybe jump-start your psu on; I've done a section on interrogating your front panel for this very reason. Other ways I check for how a front panel is pinned out, is my voltmeter has an audible beep for continuity. If I were to buy just the cable set for an EVGA 1600? Within minutes I can tell you exactly how the front panel is pinned out, using my continuity tester on my voltmeter. This is because all cables are identical on the hardware end, & I can & do probe those connectors, then back-probe them to the modular connector end & slowly create a chart of where all the voltages are, based on the hardware end of the connector & 'landmarks' that say where all the 12v ground 5v 3.3v etc have to be. You can use my guide here to help probe your cables, so you can slowly work your way to wiring your mio up right. When done building your mio cable, you can jump your psu on, & get real voltage readings to ensure it is wired-pinned out correctly b4 you ever place power to your mio.

When you get your new cable set, 9 times out of 10 they give you cables you never need, like an extra cpu 8pin, extra sata cables. You can make a matching mio cable with these excess cables & more important have the right modular connector ends. Empty connectors are always for sale, as well as new psu pins to help you turn your material into a new mio cable. You can make one, when you're done & it works, you can try to make another one, a better one. You can browse my photos, I've made about 40 of these so far. When in doubt, buy an original case harness, part# U647R, back out or snip out the mio 10pin harness, apply new pins if need be, apply the right modular connectors where-ever you can get some from. After, you can set about making a matching type the way I do.

Don't let my guide over-whelm you; over the past year it's grown into a monster, I know it. Look at my photos of my completed cables, they are much easier to make then ever will be to explain how to make them. There are so many ways to wire things up, I simply can not include them all, or untangle it all, so do research elsewhere for things like wire coupling (bullet connectors, mating connectors, easy wiring supplies etc), check youtube for how to back power supply pins out of connectors, or apply new psu pins to wires, to at least get something made, then go back & perfect your design afterwards. It can look sloppy, so what if it does?, so long as it works there's time to go back and do better next time.


- EVGA 12Volt PowerBoost Modules for your Stock X58 Motherboard -

pwrboost - Copy.jpg


Here we see that some poor sod learned the hard way not to try to run insane cards on the stock x58 MSI A-51 board: his 12v wires on pins 10/11 had a burn out (majik smoke). This is indicative of a card (or cards) trying to draw in more power than the board as designed can allow. This exact same problem was happening on EVGA boards back in the day, hence, their solution for evga users (& eventually the rest of us) was the powerboost, which saturates the pci-e lane(s) w/a ready steady supply of 12v to the card or cards, & forgoes the bottleneck happening up top through pins 10/11. This board (& whatever card(s) were used in it) makes a good j560m poster child ... pop one in your x1 pci-e slot & call it a day ... ounce prevention/pound cure ...

I qwit gaming, I do not run nor have a need for high-dollar high-power cards, nor do I keep up with what cards can be used in Area-51 or not. The lesson above is this: if you use either of the stock x58 boards (part# j560m or xdj4c), you might need a powerboost even if you swapped in a new high-dollar high-power psu, huh? The bottleneck on pins 10/11 is a real, known issue w/our stock boards. We've learned it isn't always the psu that is at fault, it is the pci-e lane the card(s) sits in that starves for 12v,  where we might assume it is essentially the mthrbrd is what turns the system off, bsod, black screen all of it, performance issues, part of the pain we're here to deal with & fix.

If you do not live in the USA, does export the powerboost to some countries.


24-pin ATX power plug meltdowns: Need user data from unaffected computers


the issue with X58 motherboard & power supply 24pin ATX connectors having a meltdown was so widespread, link above archives links to 17 other internet / forum posts describing the issue & offering possible wiring work-arounds to prevent it from happening

if u still have the factory motherboard, plan to swap in a new power supply & high-performance video card or cards, invest in the low-cost EVGA Powerboost to help protect your high-cost investments


- Who Really Makes the Power Supply? -

Tom's Hardware finally published a new 2014 power supply manufacturer's list:

... good breakdown on who's really behind the label: here's the link

Pre-game Warm-Up

I do not own a Corsair ax(i) series power supply. But in my three towers my modular Seasonic x-1250, XfxPro 1250 & Nzxt Hale90 1Kw single 12v rail psu's have been tested & used in both my stock & "Asus-51" Haswell build; Hale/x-1250/Pro & ax(i)-series are similar power supplies - not just because they're all single 12v rail design - but simply because they're modular, & it is for that basic reason you can translate & apply the lessons learned from my modular's over to a Corsair - & by extension just about any modular psu offered on the market - because in the end, it's elementary my Dear Watson's: simply make the wire harness & plug the Professor into the hyper-drive ...  

In this exposé you will learn the basics of how to:

  • understand all of your mio's volt/ground requirements
  • solve your psu's fixed volt/ground pins in the modular jacks
  • devise a wiring harness & connector scheme w/which to mate your mio board to your new modular psu
  • spy the modular panel of any aftermarket psu & decide which ones might work & those best left unchallenged
  • Corsair launched their new digital Titanium-class ax-1500i. With one simple look at its modular front panel, you can decide if you have what it takes to turn your A-51 into an Area-1500i / Area-1.5Kw Ti
  • below are photos of a hand-made 10pin mio harness; if you follow the instructions provided w/in this article, you should be able to gather all the tools, materials & know-how to fabricate a working harness for your master i/o board as I have

io 10pin.JPG

Master i/o board successfully mated to my Xfx Pro1250. Hand-made 10pin harness taps a pair of the right modular ports, sends correct volts/grounds to mio board. Yours will be a similar situation ...

io 10pin a.JPG

All 3volt / 5volt / 5volt "stand-by" / 12volts / grounds were correctly "found" & correctly "tapped" from the psu & directed to mio board, using a photo schematic (below) of mio's circuit specifications

- Original Case Harness Adapted to Corsair ax1500i /ax1200i -

7853.fch 1.jpg_5383.PTDC0035.JPG'7043.PTDC0036.JPG_0118.PTDC0037.JPG'

here I've disassembled an entire original case harness, popped new psu pins & modular connex on all the ends, hand-made a 7" 24pin atx extension & four true 8-wire 6+2 grfx cables. Hoo-rah.


The Original Forum Post on a Corsair Psu Swap w/a 10Pin

2 years ago a post aired on doing an ax1200 swap by creating the required home-made 10pin master i/o connector harness; a large photo of a mio 10pin w/volt assignments was posted along with it:

Click that link to read up & see or download the original 1Mb photo of the 10pin w/proven correct labels; that photo is our 80Plus Platinum-standard; it is the Reference Photo by which you can learn how to make your own 10pin connector harness & tap it into your new modular psu like others have done ... 


10pin Reference & Color Reference Photo

10pin 64.png


stock wire colors shown

I've a background in wiring; all I needed as the single basis to make my own mio harness was the Reference photo. It shows us what mio's circuit specifications are & from there you design/build an appropriate harness which taps your psu in all the right places, while your stock harness wire colors add a helpful hand at easy circuit identification.


Creating a Convention

The top Reference Photo is accurate ... I've then colored the pins in for you relative to stock wire colors & qualified the purple pin as 5VSB -->"stand-by". For easy I.D. I've #'d the pins left to right below, & refer to them later so we're on the same page with pin# color volt & ground assignments during my build & yours. The bottom left is pin1 white, bottom right pin5 purple; top left pin6 blue-white; top right pin10 red.

Pin# - Stock Color - Volts/Grounds Chart

Btm Row                       Top Row  

m1 Wht: 12v(a)         m6 Blu-Wht: 12v(b)                                      

m2 Blk: 0v = Grd       m7 Blk: 0v = Ground

m3 Blu-Wht: 12v(b)   m8 Org: 3.3v                                        

m4 Blk: 0v = Grd       m9 Blk: 0v = Ground

m5 Ppl: 5vSB            m10 Red: 5v      

"m" = connector m = master i/o 10pin Molex Mini-Fit Jr. connector

5VSB = 5 volts 'standby' ><>< 0v = Grd = Ground

12v(a) = stock rail "a", 12v(b) = stock rail "b" > rail "a"-"b" in name only; true 12v rail letter assignments inside stock psu (internal 12va, b, c etc.) are unknown, unverified

Wire/Pin Count: 12v (x3) - ground (x4) - 3v (x1) - 5v (x1) - 5vsb (x1)

Stock PSU Size: 3 7/8"h x 6"w x 8.5"l >< approx mm: 100h x 150w x 215l

Recommended psu height: 3.5" / 86mm max


mio harnesses with & w/out modular connectors - I "jumped" the red 5v wires (explained later)

corsair 1.jpg

- The Classic Splice n' Dice -

This isn't me, I found this online & admire the effort: crude but effective. Where a will? There a way: a home-made job for ax1200i. What I like? He's up & running now, he's back online; he can scour the internet now for better parts, better ideas & dial in his final product in a Round Two harness build.

For instance, he din't need to make the splice: all he had to do was build 10 power supply pins ($3 shipped?) onto the mio colored wire ends, pop his modular connectors off his ribbon cables & pop them onto the mio harness. Or. Pop 10 psu pins on the black ribbon cable ends & pop the white 10pin off - & then onto his black ribbon ends. In the top right pic, instead of a Frankenstein harness, he'd be better served with 'one' or the 'other', but yes, scour & cannabilize parts from one type harness & stick them on the other, so in the end you have either a black ribbon harness w/white 10pin end - or - an original rebuilt mio harness w/black ax1200i modular ends on it, huh? In top right photo, his left hand touches the parts he needs: simple black connector ends. A better choice: pop the white 10pin off, go with all black matching ax1200i cables in Area51.

A better choice, use the extra unused 24 inch 8pin cpu cable in the pouch, cut it down to 8", rob two wires off of the unused 16 inch section, rob an unused sata or molex cable for a 6pin, slap some new pins on & make a matching sleeved harness. Again, above is a 1st attempt of at least SOMETHING, anything to get you back up & running means you always have time to go back & perfect your design in the next go around. Now that he's back online, he might even find my post here ...



Photos of a Test Adaptor I Found Online: Crude But Effective


- Additional Multi-12v Rail Info & Disclaimer -

Tapping three 12v wires is necessary to this psu swap; finding 12v in a multi-rail psu is easy: finding which rails they belong to may not be so clear. Please see your side label/owner's manual, research safe multi-12v rail line discovery handling & wiring before attempting any wiring procedures illustrated below, or contact your manufacturer for support in this field. "Over-taxing" a 12v rail will cause heat which may then cause smoke > fire etc. If your mio harness is in fact built correctly, then the difference between a safe & potentially hazardous install will probably boil down to which modular jacks you've plugged your mio harness into. Your goal would be to have your mio harness tapped into rails which are not being overly-taxed, example: not on the same rail as high-current pci-express video cables/your video card(s):

  • you will be installing a high-power psu w/many "modular" inputs; perhaps 8, 10, 12, 14 or more to choose from. In a multi-12v unit, these modular jacks will tie to internal 12v rails, & it is upon you to choose the right (theoretically or known safest & "correct") ports to tap into
  • your mio board has its own 12v load requirements which tax your psu in its own particular way

I calculate the mio board draws about 60 - 70watts (5 - 6amps) of current at all times, & w/a resistor technique, mio sends 12volts in various degrees of current to the related 12v equipment it is asked to run. But the input draw is 60 - 70 absorbed watts regardless the 12v output current (+ heat by-product) from mio, is the way I see it. Call it "70 watts" of add-on equipmemt you will need to acount for in your system & your system wiring design:

  • Alienware designed your stock system for you
  • w/a psu swap, you design your own whole new system, understood?

What is a 12volt rail?

On my psu's & the Corsair offerings (all single 12v rails), basically they have one 100(+) amp internal "circuit breaker", & should shut off if the total current draw is 100amps or more. No matter where I plug into, no matter what equipment I run, I am told I can run "100amps" (1200w) before things will get dicey. So 12volts is of unrestricted use for me up to 100 amps.

In a multiple 12v rail psu, we'll pretend a brand of psu which has two 50amp internal "circuit breakers" or "ocp circuitry" - we'll say it has two 12v rails - each rated at 50amps - & so 12volts can not exceed 50amps on either rail.

If that psu had 12 modular ports, pretend that 6 ports were "tied" on one rail, 6 tied to the other rail. As you begin plugging cables in, it would start to matter which cables & which equipment was falling on which rail ... right? ... this is why they say to "balance your rails" "balance your equipment". For example, if you randomly plugged in cables to run three video cards, & in reality your scheme had them all on the same rail, chances are that rail would draw a lot of current, the psu & related micro-components start to stress, heat up, lose efficiency, & perhaps the psu shuts off during spikes in power, say while gaming or stress testing. That is fine: it's designed to shut off (over-current-protection "ocp").

One problem: check psu reviews, & you'll see 25% of people stating their new psu smoked up, sparked & popped, even fire! etc. Whether that was a *** psu or an unbalanced system, or both, who knows.

In the scenario above, if you'd "balanced" the equipment judiciously instead - some equipment tied to one rail, some tied to the other - the psu internals/components would run cooler, they wouldn't always be at a treschold of reaching max, stressing out, & your psu wouldn't be running in a state where it borders on shutting down in the heat of battle. This is the trick then: is the psu going to shut down? Or will it catch fire 1st? The ocp circuitry might be viable, but what about some other surface component? Some mini-part, like a transitor, that heated up beyond design limits etc BEFORE the ocp kicked in? Ok then, stranger things happen, check newegg for real-world talk on psu failures. You can search online for single vs multi rail psu's, go over their pro's & cons. Balance your mio harness judiciously, due to its "70watt" / "6a" current draw.

Call it 100 watts just to be safe. Factor it into your system building design. You've been warned.


March 13, 2015 Edit: Having both of the stock Area-51 1200w psu's tested by a Pro


This is one of my stock 1200w power supplies on a $5k SunMoon Professional Load Tester

j2 cold.JPG

above: testing shows J297R had a video-card 12volt rail shutdown protection rating of almost 20amps; as we do power supply swaps. we're on the lookout for single 12volt rail chassis' with ocp ratings of 100amps or more, if multiple 12v rails we'll want it to have 30/40/50 amp rails ...

80Plus Efficiency

j eff.JPG

above J297R: pass for silver / fail for gold (but not by much)

v eff.JPG

above VHM5V: pass silver / fail gold

stock units pass for 80Plus Silver; we're on the lookout for 80Plus Gold Platinum & Titanium, yes?

Game Time Strategies

Pretty much, any psu will work in your case, so long as you can build an mio harness for it. Mio relays/sends power directly to your stock liquid cooling pump (& radiator fan) so do not run a psu in your case w/out giving the mio a harness to run the system, lest your cpu overheats as your reward. You want a psu who's cooling fan mounts up to breathe, a chassis height of about 3.5" max & who's rear mount holes line up with the stock psu cage; remove your psu stop-brace for longer chassis &/or modular input access:

hale90 rear.jpg

correct psu has fan "up" & bottom right screw hole staggered to match stock psu cage; "dremel"/razorblade the black honey-comb psu finish trim plate to accommodate extra plugs & differing switches. Buy a spare trim if you like ...

Not every psu uses the same modular input connectors, nor have the same front panel interface nor pin-out their fixed voltage pins the same way. This complicates things since the wiring strategies become limitless. Every possible scenario can't be explored, but we can learn from Basic Training how to wage a little war on the swap project. W/a voltmeter, mental algebra & the empowerment of know-how, you can solve for your psu's 3-5-12v-grounds, solve its front panel connections, solve your 10pin, & resolve the eventual wiring harness between them:

  • there isn't an aftermarket psu yet built that comes w/a cable that can plug into the master i/o ("mio") board, & for full system integration we must hand-make mio its own special harness, then we must load the proper connectors up w/the proper volts/grounds wires/pins properly for it to work:
  • The new ax-1500i is using a full industry standard 8pin & 6pin "female" modular front panel: tapping power/ground from it w/industry standard 8pin & 6pin "males" will be like taking candy from a baby. Were we to modify some cables (or back the pins out of an un-needed sata/molex/cpu cable(s) connector they sent us) we'd have their 8pin & 6pin male(s) on the spot for our use, perhaps even some wiring & psu pins we need to complete a mio harness

The fraternal ax1200/1200i twins share the same front panel outlay & both use industry standard 8pins on one side (vga & pwr) & a 6pin on the other side:

  • ax1200 uses a proprietary 6pin & requires effort to track down a solution, (I imported some spares from China), while it uses a standard solid 'pci-e / vga' 8pin
  • ax-1200i uses a 'type1' pci-e 6pin (a type2 pci-e 6pin also fits) & a standard 'cpu/eps/pwr' 8pin
  • we can search for/buy empty industry standard 6&8pin tapping connectors for our mio harness if need be
  • in rare events, you may have to "modify" a connector to make it fit your front panel port, usually with a razorblade since it's plastic
  • we could alternatively use/buy (or back the pins out of) their cables if there are left-over or spare cables to choose from or purchase

The Corsair 1.2Kw twins power your sata devices on one side & graphics/cpu on the other side of the modular panel. We'll improvise overcome & adapt - hoo-rah! - by tapping straight into a pair of their female output ports w/an industry standard 6 & 8pin male or employ their connectors as above, & we'll snatch power/grd for mio's end of the 10pin through them. Those psu's - any psu that resembles them - will be surprisingly easy to work with - you have nothing to fear but fear itself ...

The Hale90 v1 1Kw uses an industry standard all female 8pin modular output;  mathematically, their 8pins have 3v 5v present on all ports to power sata devices. This means only 3 ground pins & three 12v pins are/can be present in any given port. Mio needs ground quads, so we could tap two 8pin ports to grab the final ground, (but, I see a situation brew where we might "jump" the final ground & cut the final connector count down to one instead).

jumper wire.jpg ex. jumping wire - "pigtail"

Whatever the plan, for Hale90 v1 we'd tap w/a pair of 8pin males (wherever we source those connectors from) - or jump (similar to photo) a ground pin & cut it to one 8pin male: a dream scenario. Any psu that resembles its all 8pin outlay should integrate into our system quickly & easily so long as the connectors you use key up & fit, right?


- Panel Overviews -

hcp1300 panel.jpg

Antec High Current Pro 1300 - made by Delta for Antec - Delta is said to do the best soldering in the industry; rated @ 1300w, it's an engine all right. Peripheral/Sata comes over a standard 5pin w/center positive latch, while cpu/pci-e come through a 16pin (8x8) - but on closer look, you can actually pop a pair of 8pins (4x4) in each, due to the oversize negative latch. In fact, any 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16 that keys right should fit, lol.


- EVGA SuperNova 1300 G2 & 1200P2 -

They discontinued their 1500w, but we'll look at the 1300w wearing the sensible shoes, who's currently (July 20, 2014) marked down to $160/shipped from Newegg after the $35 rebate; offer expires 7.24.14 so hurry:

Standard 8pin pci-e x6, 6pin sata x6, 8pin cpu x2 rouge et noire color scheme.


their new 1200w platinum psu is worth considering too

- EVGA SuperNova 1600 G2/P2/T2 -


eVGA unveiled three new 1600w models in gold/plat/titanium ratings: single 133amp 12v rail, lotsa front connectors & an unheard of 10year warranty, gold-rated G2 is $270 now on newegg ... I love a psu that has two 8pin cpu connectors since we can tap the unused port for all our 12v/ground needs, then tap a 6pin sata for the remainder. This one uses standard 6/8pin, easily worked with, & the black chassis should look great in your A-51. 1600 efficient watts. Easily dealt with. 10year warranty. Period.

- Seasonic x-1250xm (Gen1) -

  • the latest news is the x-1250xm (&1050) underwent revisions inside & out, shown at Computex June 2014 ... now called the x-1250xm2 

Gen1, marketed as a single 12vrail psu. Jonnyguru & hardocp say it might have four 12vrails (30a x2 + 45a x2):

  • if we forgive the fact it might have four 12v rails, the online review says the sata rail is 45amps. Good. That's a target tap spot, since 3volts/5volts can only come from a sata port. Looking at the front panel, there are a few tapping options, like grabbing all pwr/grd from a pair of 6pin sata ports. There's a 6pin+12pin option, even a 6pin+8pin option. x-1250 is wrapped in a handsome case & Seasonic's a smart candidate since they're standard bearer's for making a top-end psu, so I chose this looker as my darling for the clean efficient power in DreamLand...


"... Mo Cuishle ..."

And I went w/the Xfx Pro1250 Black Edition for my Asus-51/Haswell build to keep the black theme going: made by Seasonic for Xfx, the psu sports a bold Xfx chassis design while inside it's a full-on Seasonic x-1250xm; twins inside w/identical front panel pin/layouts:

Of the psu assortment now on the market, this one's my favorite (I've bought three of them ... hoarding "spares"). The aggressive looks are backed up w/plenty of Seasonic muscle to cleanly power your system @ 80Plus Gold & beefy 16g 12v wires for cpu & pci-e.  

xfx chassis.jpg


... Lord Vader ...Your shuttle is waiting ...

One of the 1st looks at the Seasonic Platinum 1200; standard 6pin & pci-e 8pin ... it's brand new, plenty of punch & the efficiency deserves your attention:


I'm running a new Hale90 v2 1200watter using a custom Antec HCP1300 black-sleeved cable set in my Lunar-51 & I really like it since the front panel has connectors galore:

it uses a standard cpu/eps 8pin that's quickly tapped & a special 5pin for Sata/Molex power:


I've dropped Hale90 1200 into my Lunar-51: pics @ bottom of post

They give you extra sata/molex cables, so back an unused cable 5pin off for your use, or track down an empty 5pin online that keys. 5pins come in three flavors: side, dual-side & top latch, so cut latches off of close matches if need be. I imported some side-latch 5pins found on eBay.  


-The DoomsDay Machine - Area-51 R1.5kW


The Corsair ax1500i is getting plenty of praise as the be-all end-all in psu's. It has 6 type1 sata ports & 10 eps/cpu/pwr 8pin ports. Nothing you can install in your A-51 should make it sweat: it's titanium rated. It's a master-piece made by the same folks who made our stock psu's, Flextronics.

  • 9.01.14 edit: A-51 R2 does get a 1.5kW, made by Delta, 1440w max combined 12v output over four 12v rails, fully modular
  • I'll edit in 'a theoretical approach to the the new R2 psu inside your R1' @ very bottom of page

As of May '15 I've helped in 8 installs with ax1500i, using hand-made cables to seal the titanium deal:


here's my ax1500i all-ribbon-cables (mio + 10p/14p extensions); 3" extension (top) is tapped 5vsb


because ax1200i/1500i use interchangeable cables, the 1500i ribbon 24p can be substituted for a sleeved 1200i 24p & sleeved 10+14 extension. Here the mio ribbon wears a 6p/8p/10p; the extension is a 10+14 tapped 5vsb, using a 4pin to tie them together.

Original Case Harness adapted to ax1500i

full kit - Copy.JPGHere I've taken A-51's stock harness, applied new psu pins where needed, rebuilt the ends w/connectors & 'pinned it out' for safe use w/ax1500i. In addition to the work I did on the original case harness, I've hand-made the 7" 24p mthrbrd extension & x4 true 8-wire (6+2) graphics. 

An upgraded 16g wire set like above was built for a friend; success with her ax1500i swap, below:



Asus x99 Area 51 Mod-51 Pegasus

[DEAD LINK /owners-club/alienware/f/3746/t/19611899]

Her new black cables & build-post below

[DEAD LINK /owners-club/alienware/f/3746/t/19618405]

Area 51 Pegasus Mod - Part 2



Airene's Airea-51 HEX / GLX R1.5

Eventually you'll get a grip on how to handle your psu swap in total. What you learn from working w/standard & special connectors will help you branch out into the online shopping market & confidently be able to take one look at the front panel of an EVGA, Rosewill, Thermaltake, Enermax, Antec, whatever, & know right away if it is a psu you are or are not willing to try to put in your case. Master 12v-rail technology & what psu out there can stop you from wrangling it in & milking its gold-platinum juice?

The basics come down to sourcing your wires & connectors & psu pins when needed. Then figure out what your psu's port pins are outputting so far as 3v 5 v 12v ground, & tap them on the right pins w/your modular connectors relative to the Reference Photo.

This will be a broad-spectrum psu swap "how-to" article; what you learn about the Nzxt/Seasonic may help you figure out the Corsair or Rosewill Hercules 1600watt install. Read as long as you like & bail out whenever, that's fine. Let us look at Corsair's fraternal twins a little closer.


Corsair ax1200 & 1200i On Closer Inspection

ax1200: proprietary 6pin(sq-sq-sq/u-u-u) & standard vga/pci-e 8pin


ax1200i: type1 pci-e 6pin, standard cpu/eps/pwr 8pin

ax1200/1200i have the same front panel layout but their 6/8's are slightly different on closer inspection; axi underwent a fixed pin voltage assignment revision (see pinout charts at bottom) & so their cables aren't interchangeable as the result, while they use differing style 8pins anyway.

  • Since their wires are all black, to get a feel for who outputs what, by definition the connectors on the device end of the cables they supply you must pinout as industry standards so we can safely/universally plug them in our mthrbrd/graphic/hdd/dvd drive, use extenders etc. That way, we can "know" what wire is what volt, simply by looking at the device end connector (& comparing it to known industry standard pin charts)
  • on the other end, the modular/psu end of the cables they give you? The factory loads the connectors tic-tac-toe, according to the fixed front panel pins, each of which is its own particular voltage assignment
  • it's the modular connector & port duo that we need be weary of for identification of what wire/pin/connector scheme is being used & how we can find what & where each volt/ground we need is, so we can tap it! 
  • for instance, the sata cables for ax1200 & ax1200i may look identical, but, that only holds true for the device end ... the modular ends are pinned out/arranged differently. You might think this tells us little, but to a trained eye it in fact can tell us a lot about what is going on in the front panel

On either Corsair, our attention is now on their left "Peripheral + Sata" & right "6+2 PCI-E & 4+4 CPU".

- 6pin Sata Side -

Corsair's ax1200 & 1200i "peripheral+sata" are standard & non-standard 6pin females w/center lock tabs & 3-5-12v-grd ouput pins. I can think of no 6pin male that will fit ax1200 (other than to mod a 6+2 male vga connector & use the 2pin or employ 3x2pins as a last resort, lol). Again, you'll be faced with snatching a 6pin off an included sata/molex cable - or buy their sata/molex cable & snatch its 6pin off - or simply make your harness out of their cable materials.

For ax1200i, it's a standard easy to find type1/type 2 pci-e 6pin male. The solution for the beginnings of our mio connector on either psu is plain:

  • find & tap 3volt + 5volt w/the right 6pin. In the end, their 6pin female ports are no match for us when we have the connector for it. That psu is landing in Area-51 blind-folded in an unmarked white jet, going behind the walls of Dream Land like it or not

- 8pin Cpu/Pci-e Side -

The 8pin sides are standard female 8pins w/center lock tab: on axi we'd tap 12v-grd w/a standard 8pin male cpu type ... a pci-e/vga 8pin for ax-1200:

  • 8pin is the jackpot where we get all of mio's 12v/grd needs: 7 out of 10 mio wires can be snatched away in one fell swoop from here

Their fixed 8pin ports by their nature reduce to a 4 by 4, where 12v will usually be on 4 pins, grd on the other 4. Whether 12v is all on the top row or bottom row, staggered, we will know that after we probe them (or their supplied cables) w/a volt-meter &/or continuity test to the cables:

  • both their 6/8 female pinouts must be tested as the very 1st step after it's in our hands; by visual inspection of the cables they've given us & by continuity test at both ends
  • next we "hot-wire" our psu on & probe cables/pins/connectors in a classic bench test - in or out of our case - but not plugged anywhere into the mthrbrd or mio. Jump start technique is described later
  • the 3-5-12-grd vs connector pinout data we collect is jotted on a master sketch, we resolve the front panel fixed pin vs connector voltage/grd assignments, then we build our mio harness & tailor its 3-5-12-grd needs relative to the tapping connector(s) we employ. Sound easy? The front panel is a grid of many different pins & outputs, so test what they are
  • 8pin male whisks mio's 12v triplet & ground quads; visualize a 4x4 8pin w/7 wires & one slot empty when it plugs into the psu port - your 8pin will carry 7 wires - got it?
  • 8pin snatches 7 wires / 6pin snatches 3v 5v
  • Pow
  • One wire left: 5vsb, discussed later

Our mio wire harness will be built w/connectors at both ends, so we need connectors, we need wires, we need psu pins to bridge mio to new psu. Let's look at a basic hand-made Corsair harness:


Mio 10pin @ bottom, built to Reference Photo specs. Up top, a 6 & 8, built to verified front panel pinout specs. 10th wire - 5vsb - resides in a 4pin & is tapped into a 24pin extension. I have used Corsair supplied connectors & wires; one end of these wires have factory psu pins applied. For mio's end, I had apply all 10 of the new psu pins to complete the harness project. Your situation may be similar.

  • when we get to the question later of where to get "the wire harness parts", if your raw material of choice is an 8pin male-female "extender", back out what might become an unused (12v) wire & re-use it in your 6pin connector for instance:

8p ext.jpg

example of basic harness making material - 8pin extension - for this material, you'd "cut" off the unuseable connector & pins, apply new psu pins & the "right" connector

8p types.jpg

Note the true difference 'tween the vga/pci-e 8pin (left) & the cpu/eps 8pin (cntr).

Most psu makers are using the type1 6pin (right).


6pins: type1 "auxillary" u-sq-sq (left) type2 "pci-e" u-u-sq (right). Type 2's can fit in a type1 port (=

*Note: when buying a psu, I prefer one that has 6 sata/molex ports; 6 ports leaves room for expansion, 5 ports starts to box you in: a psu w/only 4 sata ports is a bad choice for your A-51 I think.

Due to the many ways we can build our connections with alot of connector choices at hand, it is at this point where I am not here to split hairs with you, nor account for every possible way to wire up a mio/psu combo into Area-51. For time limitations I am here to state some obvious possibilities & if you have time then chime in with your own. My build is over, but I'm open for advice as I should be, & hopefully we'll peer review this in a calm cool & sane manner. To my knowledge, no one on the forum's gotten out of the theory phase - & if they did - didn't publish step-by-step exactly how ...

We'll note our 8pin male we've possibly purchased is equally a 4x4 (4 by 4) connector; 4 top slots, 4 bottom slots. We will note the mio 10pin is equally a 5x5. We will turn to mio's 10pin 5x5 "keyed" connector soon; due to these keys, (squares vs u's) there are several ways we can approach the same thing: how to get - or make - a 10pin connector wired to our mio/psu by using like-keyed standard issue psu connecting parts that fit.

A basic overall strategy for the Corsair examples:

  • to use 6 & 8pin males to grab pwr/grd right from the psu & direct it to mio into its 10pin male - then tap 5vsb from the 24pin main mthrbrd harness if desired - (5vsb discussed later) - & when it's all said & done you will've given your psu full integration into your system w/very little trouble indeed, almost no "clutter" in your cable management, & solid connections in the process if you went about it right

Some wiring harness strategies will call for empty males as the building block, some will call for double-ended male-female extenders/adapters, some will call for 6, 4+4, 6+2, 8pin, 12pin, some will choose to use their new cables as raw material. There is more than one way to skin this psu cat depending on the brand you work on & what, if anything, to the connector you must modify so it keys right, based on where you source your parts from.

When I speak of the Corsair ax-series - our chosen psu's for the spot-light - when I use the term "6pin", I mean you've used a type1/2 pci-e 6pin male, modded an 8pin (6+2 or 3x2pin lol) male to key right, or you're using or bought the correct 6pin by virtue of a stock sata/molex cable (& liberated it). I am hoping you learned by now that when you go psu shopping, look for a close-up pic of the ports, count it's "square vs u" keyed blocks, compare them to standard issue keyed connectors, then decide if you can employ them or mod them - or are more likely required to use or buy actual proprietary type cables & liberate the connectors if you can or use the cables themselves out-of pouch. You can buy "empty" connectors online from most pc parts shops to start fresh with also!


Where to get connectors again?

On a fully modular psu, given mio may top at 6amps max draw (to power the 120mm fans at 100% rpm etc), it is my opinion mio should have one or two modular ports "dedicated to it", depending on psu choice/layout etc. This means when you shop for a psu, you must decide if you can afford to dedicate ports to it; the more ports a psu offers the better. I do not recommend plugging in your new sata/molex/cpu provided cables & then tapping some unused sata port down stream @ the device end w/a modified sata "extender" & then route wires to mio's 10pin. A sata extender employed by itself as mio's only volt/grd source may have specs on each terminal of 4.5 amps max for instance, then where will you be? In smoke?

  • my approach is a mio harness that occupies one or two physical modular ports, depending. I do not run tri-way graphics, so to me, limited port count is a non-issue, but it may be an issue for you if you don't have enough ports to run all your stuff, so look for a psu w/enough ports on it

But let's revisit ways to get port connectors again: when you buy a psu, after you "know" to dedicate one or two ports to power mio, you essentially knew you'll have one or two of their provided cables you can't "use" anyway. Sometimes they give you an extra cable or two as well. Why not use their cables as your raw wiring/harness material, or back the 6/8pin connectors off & use them for your mio harness' tapping connectors ...

  • as w/the Corsair ax1200 6pin etc, which looks tough at the moment to track down, you can contact your manufacturer, beg for a free spare cable or two. If not, ask to buy them. When it gets there, use the cable or back the psu tapping connector off
  • you can buy "empty" industry standard 2/4/6/8/10/12/14/18 pin connectors etc; these are made by Molex Inc., the series is called mini-fit jr. (& so are the psu pins that fit them). You can try for reference, find a distributor & check online pc shops/eBay for Molex connectors/pins
  • naturally, if or when you lose the center lock tab on a hand-made "replica" or modded connector, do not bump the connector out of your psu later
  • last we have the standard issue male-female 4-6-6+2-8-4+4 extenders/extensions/adapters to buy then mod with; we may need connectors, we may need wires for a bridging harness: there they are to choose from. That wide selection will have a variety of keyed combinations, so compare online photos against your psu port keys & decide which connector or combination of connectors will tap the psu best. Its a plastic connector, so use a razor on it to mod til it keys right - if you're reduced to making a "replica" to fit
  • somewhere in all of what I had to say today, you should be able to get your hands on the psu port connectors, the wire harness that feeds mio, & your mio connector as well 


Behind the Gauze Curtain: the Rosetta Stone

When a typical pc owner buys a Corsair ax1200i or similar, they'll install it in their case, plug in connectors, hit "power" & be done; they don't have to care about volt/grd location; their connectors plug in & that's that. But we have to look after mio's volt/ground needs. Our 1st job is to solve the modular panel fixed voltage pin assignments, solve the pin grid. For ax-1200(i) we solve their 6pin (peri/sata) side & 8pin (pci-e/cpu) side. Whatever the brand, wherever you tap, you must solve for all 3-5-12v grd pin assigments on the front panel - lest by "guessing" you have a blow-out on 1st power up. "Measure twice, cut once".

  • check online psu reviews: people can barely unbox a new psu & plug it in w/out some form of catastrophe; perhaps user error or even "bad out of box" psu's built on a Monday or Friday, so it's best to bench-test the psu 1st, unhooked to mio/mthrbrd, to prove it's output is what it should be - lest we have a blow-out that isn't user/error-based but warrants an rma'd unit for good reason: defective workmanship out-of-box

Look at the mio 10pin volt/color/pin# Reference Photo(s) again. You can & should make a grid sketch like that of your 6pin (3x3) or 8pin (4x4) female ports - &/or your corresponding 6/8pin male tapping connectors. Use alpha-numeric labels similar to below. Probe for volts/grd for your pin "6a"; if it's 3volts, say so. Find your "8a", name it, qualify it:

6a   6b   6c ><><  8a   8b   8c   8d

3v  12v Grd ><>< 12v Grd 12v Grd

5v  12v Grd ><>< 12v Grd 12v Grd

  6d   6e   6f  ><><  8e    8f    8g    8h

Motivated installers can draw keyed "square & u-shaped" block combinations to fine-tune the precion of their sketches; draw the top center lock tap to better orient "top row" from "bottom" row; make an arrow for which side of the connector the pins are inserted into (& the wires are protruding) since your male connectors certainly have back & front sides which are mutually exclusive.

If you've bought dbl-ended 6/8pin "extenders" as harness/wiring material then your wires are probably standard "ylw & blk", so, make a mio sketch to account for new colors. You can use a majik marker (red/org/ppl etc) to put a little dot on a "ylw" wire to tell what its voltage "really" needs to be. An accurate wire-volt-pinout sketch then becomes your fool-proof data reference which ensures nothing goes wrong step-by-step with your final 10pin connector harness on either end of the psu-to-mio harness connectors. You want a trouble-error free install, not see majik smoke when you power up ...

On Corsair ax1200(i), we see a 6pin layout on the left & an 8pin layout on the right. The rule-of-thumb is that all their 6pin ports will be pinned electrically identical, all 8pin ports will be pinned electrically identical. When you solve one of their 6pin pinouts you've solved them all. When you solve one of their 8pin pinouts you've solved them all. Their panels - port-for-port - are "universal" so any one of their cables can insert & output the correct volt/grd through any port of your choice, safely & easily:

  • solve one fixed 6pin assignment, solve one fixed 8pin assignment, & you will then be free to plug your corresponding properly pinned 6/8pin male connectors into any 6/8pin of your choice, without fear of a blow-out 

Again, their "pci-e/cpu" 8pin side can only consist of 12 volt + ground pins. Four pins each. A 4x4 port. When you tap their 8pin for the mio 12v triplet:

  • all three must be confirmed 12v pins you've tapped into

When you tap their 8pin for the mio ground quadruplet:

  • all four must be confirmed ground pins you've tapped into

Again, your 8pin can/will snatch 7 of the 10 wires mio needs. Their "Sata" 6pin would carry the remaining 3v-5v you'd tap ... but their sata-side will also carry 12v+grd as it should. Your job is to find 3v-5v, weed out 12v/grd, tap 3v-5v only, & confirm you've tapped 3v-5v only:

  • the presence of 12v/grd in each 6pin port may be a nuisance you must deal with. Find 3v/5v, wire your male connector to tap it, confirm it is 3v/5v after you've tapped it. Insert your 3v-5v wires/pins into mio's 10pin in the correct slots if needed, verify, & you will have no problems on power up if you do so from your 6/8pin confirmed wiring scheme 

-So far so good -

What we've learned here is that Corsair ax-1200 & 1200i can accept 6pin & 8pin males - & because it can - mio can mate to it quickly & easily after we solve one of their 6 & one of their 8pin port pinouts. Find all 3-5-12v grd: then tap it accordingly.

  • A decent scenario is 3v 5v from a 6pin, 12v's grounds from an 8pin.

What this tells us is that any (single 12v rail) psu w/a standard 6pin/8pin panel can probably be used in our Area 51 w/no trouble. I am not telling you to buy a Corsair ax-series psu; I am telling you that if you buy one like it - when it gets there - test their ports - solve their pinout grid assignments - then tap them correctly & confidently with your connector of choice

  • On single 12v rail psu's, finding & tapping any 12v line is a breeze
  • On multi-rail psu's, finding 12v is just as easy; finding which rail it's on & which 12v lines to safely & correctly tap is another matter, a matter you need be deftly aware about. When in doubt, look at the side label for 12(a) 12(b) etc, scrupulously research before you touch any 12v lines & call their tech support
  • Pci-express video cards hog the most juice; my gut says not to over-burden their 12v rail(s) with mio's added 6amp load ... good luck


Finding 3v 5v 5vsb 12v Grd in the Fraternal ax Twins' Modular Architecture

When your new psu gets there, you'll be in the odd position you can't use your top power button & hence your mthrbrd to turn it on right away to easily interogate their cables for pwr/grd output; if you have the stock liquid cooler, mio needs power to relay it so the cooler pump runs/cools. Yet, you have nothing to power mio up with yet, lol ...

  • use methods to look at/probe new cables, solve where 3-5-12v ground pins are located in the pin grid
  • next, verify by jump-starting psu "on" w/out use of mthrbd/top pwr button (to verify where all the volt/grd pins you need to tap are 1st)
  • you're best served by "bench-testing" it while "on"

- bench testing your new psu -

The fastest way is w/a voltmeter while the psu is running. If you know how to "hot-wire" a psu on - in or out of your case - for "bench-testing", your 1st order of business is to jump it "on", interogate cables & fixed modular pins to start your master pinout sketch. This is the "Area-51 Owner's Burden".

  • search youtube for: "jump start power supply", to see a video tutorial
  • simple paperclip method: insert paperclip/jumper to mthrbrd 24pin on #16 ('green') & #15 (or #17/#18) blk (see photo below for PS_On)

Lay your psu on a table or bed, jump-start your psu on, insert all its relevant modular cables in to test their pin assignments for 3-5-12v/grd w/a voltmeter. Then compare the device end to what the psu-connector end pins out like. As I say, the device ends are universally wired the same, must be pinned out by industry standards, while the psu side of the cable can be pinned out in whatever way the psu has been built by their engineers: finding how the engineers pinned out the front panel grid is your real task, & verifying volt/ground, no "dead pins" or bad psu (abbarent 20 volts?!) out of box as well:

  • for instance: on ax1200i - true - the mthrbrd/cpu device end of the 8pin pins out industry standard: 12v's top row / grd's bottom row as it should be .. but on the psu port itself? Hah. 12v is bottom row, grd is top ...
  • no wonder they say to use only their cables. That panel is otherwise wired/pinned out "backwards", so they build the cpu cable (assemble the connector at psu end) accordingly to compensate
  • if you plugged a standard generic cpu 8pin cable into that psu & used it, uh, you'd fry your motherboard &/or psu on the spot, right? Right
  • it is definitely best to do a fast 5-minute bench test for volts grounds

If you prefer, you can also test your psu panel w/out any cables plugged in. Simply probe the pins - find a known ground pin, & go from there. Sketch your data, & extrapolate to what the physical cable itself must be pinned out like relative to the panel pins ... understood?

When your psu is off, yank out cables & probe the device end & probe their modular ends w/a continuity test & jot down the data if need be.

- digital volt/ohm meter using continuity test -

I prefer a digital v/ohm meter w/a feature called "continuity test". Let's say I want to test an ax1200 24pin main mthrbrd harness. The mthrbrd connector end is a standard 24pin, but the psu modular end of the harness is split into a 14pin + 10pin. If I want to find 5vsb - on both ends of the harness - I can switch my voltmeter to "continuity test", place one voltmeter lead on 24pin #9 (purple) & one-by-one probe each pin on each row @ the other end (the 14+10 end):

  • when I touch the right pin, the voltmeter will beep (audible alarm)
  • audible continuity test is an indispensable tool for your mio project
  • you'll be glad to have this feature when you go testing cable ends 
  • when my cables sets arrive here, the 1st thing I do is take cables out of the pouch & continuity test them at both ends & make a sketch & follow it up w/a color (photoshop) photo saved on my pc. I can also download a photo of a front panel & "color" the pin assignments (a color grid)
  • when your psu arrives, continuity test the cables @ both ends, then jump the psu on to confirm/add to your findings

If your harness material is "basic extenders", when the psu is "on" you can stick your 6/8pin extenders in to probe volts/grd, so long as you test both ends later on w/continuity tester, right? Find ground w/your negative voltmeter lead - then find all volts w/positive lead - then all grounds, then write them down.

  • for instance: plug in any type 8pin cpu cable ... test the device end, you should read 12v's top row, grounds btm row. uh-huh. Of course
  • now distach that cable - do continuity test @ both ends - is it still 12v's top, grd's btm on the modular end like it is on the device end? If this is an ax1200, yes ... if ax1200i? ... no!

Never take for granted that what is happening on the device end is exactly what is happening on the modular psu end. Chances are, the engineers probably wired their panel up "different", & the pinout for the device end of the cable won't directly translate to the pinout of the psu end of the cable .. understand? That is exactly why we are bench testing the psu; to test for volts grounds, solve the panel pin grid, continuity testing the cables, making a sketch ...

- 5vsb -

To test for 5vsb, your psu does not have to be on - but it must be plugged in. With your psu off, plugged in, find pin#9 ('purple') on your 24pin psu mthrbrd harness & check for +5vsb (5volts 'stand-by' power) against any blk ground pin:

  • the 24pin/#9 (ppl) is the only wire that will output 5vsb power
  • you may want to tap 5vsb from your psu later on (to send it to mio #5 ppl) either tapping into the 24pin end or better yet the psu modular end (14+10 psu end on ax1200 for example):


If you do not know how to turn your psu on correctly if it isn't attached to the mthrbrd (by using your top power button) I fear your attempt to build your own psu-to-mio harness will be futile, possibly unsafe. It is safe to power your psu up on the dining room table on cardboard using "paperclip method", or buy a cheap fast-start psu 24pin female connector to do it (search "power supply starter" on eBay for instance). While you're at it, consider a psu tester for $5 & have them ship those together if they have both items:

7271.power supply tester.jpg

You'll need a voltmeter to confirm where all 3-5-12v & grd are; it must be confirmed on the 6pin/8pin Corsair panel. What are each of the pins for on their 6 & 8 pin panel?! Note how things get blurry w/Corsair cables due to the stealthy all-black wires: an old-pro will have zero problem w/identification of these wires through landmarks on the device end, yet a noobie might. I do not own a Corsair, but I am an old pro, so you will have to do the work of finding v/grd & confirming their true fixed pinout nature on your time:

  • I've made & borrowed proven color-charts for many psu panels, but they're no substitute for doing the reconfirmation yourself w/a voltmeter & a live bench test
  • this psu article is getting so long because that's a $5000 computer &  $250+ psu, so your mio harness must be wired & built right before you put power to your system ...


to make the ax1200i mio cable + 24pin extension below, I start with empty 4p/6p/8p/10p/14pin male/female connex & male/female psu pin terminals from; part #'s are gathered from the Mouser filter or, charts & links posted later below. I mostly use the largest 16gauge / 16AWG pins, since 16g wire fits them, & their larger size makes working with 18-22awg wire easier.


On my hand-made Platinum-Class mio harness & 24pin atx extension I make (& sell on eBay) I do not need the chassis here because I have the ax-1200i pinout from their cables set I own & published its pinout chart; this plug & play pre-built harness pair I've made will have a new owner who would put their ax-1200i on a table on cardboard:

  • plug the harness into the 6 & 8pin modular ports
  • plug their 24pin mthrbrd harness into the 14+10 ports
  • plug psu in
  • w/a voltmeter, find pin #9 (ppl) on the 24pin end (against a ground) & confirm it is "hot" +5vsb
  • next, jump start the psu on
  • grab the mio 10pin connector end, use a voltmeter w/psu running, use the Reference Photo to compare the 10pin outputs against
  • find a ground pin, probe for 3v-5v-5v(sb)-12v triplet/quad grounds
  • when the harness passes those volt/ground tests on all its pins - relative to the Reference Photo - the psu's ready to be installed because the harness would test safe for use
  • the most important tests are on the 10pin connector end itself w/psu running; what is the output on each of the 10 pins & do they all jive with the Reference Photo ... if yes - it is safe - if not, find out why & rebuild your harness connector until all 10 outputs jive w/photo
  • at some point, they would then remove & probe their 24pin harness at both ends w/a continuity test to find the actual 5vsb pin @ the modular psu end (located in the 10pin on ax1200 series mthrbrd harnesses)

Yours is an identical testing/verification ritual. 1st you solve your psu modular volt/ground pinout, then build your own harness, then bench-test it; you wouldn't hook my harness or your harness to a mio board w/out testing it first right?

  • right - because if you've a problem in the expected voltage/ground, you need to know if its endemic in the new psu (which you can't fix) or more likely a simple mistake in your harness, lol, which you can go back & fix

You can interrogate the cables they gave you as well for id purposes, to make sense of the modular pinout. Way down I have posted typical device connector pinouts (sata/molex/pci-express etc), which you can use to solve for "x". Here is a link to common connectors & their voltage requirements; use this link to help solve the modular connector pinouts, by "tracing" known voltages at device end back to modular connector etc. This method could be called: interrogating the provided cable set at both connector ends:

Now that you know 100% what all the Corsair or similar psu's volt/ground pin assignments are on their modular panel, we'll develop a fast game-plan for 9 out of mio's 10 wire+pin needs. You need a harness before you can test it, so we'll try to build you one ...


Cut to the Chase

There is no way to get around the fact a mio harness must be hand-made by somebody: whether it is me or you making it, the fact is, it will probably require backing psu pins out of a connector, attaching new psu pins (& perhaps solder for good measure) to a wire when needed, inserting pins into correct slots etc. Basic computer cable wiring is basically unavoidable here. It's a "project".

Pin removal/insertion video:

We'll start w/pin removal, because a great place to get a mio harness is from out of a stock Area-51 harness - if you back the pins out right, you can re-use them - & begin attaching your modular connectors to it - 🙂 (There is a section below on the pro's/cons of removing a stock mio from a stock harness)  

psupin removal.jpg

If you have an actual psu pin removal tool (a sturdy thumbtack/sturdy needle/ safety-pin/tiny nail/mechanic's "pick" also works) - if you know how or are willing to try how to use these type tools - (youtube: how-to psu pin removal: for related videos) you can:

  • buy/use a cheap psu connector to practice pin removal on
  • when you're confident, try to back the mio harness pins out of your stock (or used eBay item) 66pin black bulk connector & liberate the mio harness for your psu swap w/its wires/pins/harness removed for re-use

You'll be in prime position by having the entire stock mio harness to navigate your wiring job without color "confusion". The other end will have readily used pins on its wires. Clik clik clik into your modular connector(s) of choice & you're about done in no time:

  • a psu pin is held inside the connector w/"flexible" side "arms"
  • the removal tool is used to "flatten" those arms, so after you back a psu pin out by "flattening" the arms, you must repair-reset the pin if you want to re-use it by re-splaying the lock arms (45 degrees is ok) w/a needle/tiny flat-head screwdriver. Afterwards, when the pin's reinserted into a connector slot, it will "clik" / "lock" back in place. Got it?

With your mio harness liberated & its pins reset, if you're blessed by the fact your psu can use 6 &/or 8pin males, then try/buy empty 6/8 "males":



  • online, they might call these 'female' connectors because they house female psu pins; if you plug one into your psu it t acts as a "male" plug, lol, so I call these "males" even though they're technically "females"... buy by sight, load w/ female pins - & indulge me while I call these "male" connectors from now on

male 8pin.jpg

typical male 6pin, with side panel mount 'ears'

  • conversely, 'extension' connectors (& modular ports on a psu) are technically 'males'; they house pointy male psu pins, even though they 'act' like females once you've popped a connector in ... the receiving connector above is what I call a female; online they call these 'males' & need to be loaded w/male psu pins ...


Typical Female 24pin Molex Series 5557 Mini-fit Jr.  >< Typical Male 24pin Series 5559 Mini-fit Jr.

5658.psu pins.bmp

Terminals: Molex Mini-fit Jr. Female Series 5556 >< Male Series 5558 >< 16gauge pins advised

Molex Connector Charts (Black Connex etc)

molex houses females.JPG

above: Female Connex / House Female PSU Pins

Molex Series 5557 Mini-Fit Jr ><

Uses Series 5556 Female PSU Pins / Terminals: 16gauge pins recommended for all wiring jobs:

houses males without ears.JPG

above: Male Connex / Houses Male PSU Pins / Typically used for Extensions

Part#'s Chart 1: Without Panel Mount 'Ears' (side tabs)

Molex Series 5559

Uses Series 5558 Male PSU Pins / Terminals ... 16gauge pins recommended for all wiring jobs:

below: Panel Mount With Ears

4137.houses males with ears.JPG

Other Sources for Male/Female Connex & Male/Female PSU Pins:

  • (psu pins available also

NOTE: As of May 10, 2015, Molex may be 'discontinuing' the production of some mini-fit jr connectors, as reported on &

Example: Black 10pin female Glo-Wire, used for Corsair/Seasonic or your MIO 10pin, from the chart, part# is 50-36-1671, now  'planned for obsolescence' & 'end-of-life will be discontinued':

For ax1200i, you can buy standard 6/8pin empty "males". Using the 10pin Reference Photo, my ax-1200i pinout chart (further below) & your own solved pinout/data sketch you can then:

  • insert mio's pins one-by-one into the correct 6pin & 8pin slots until they "click/lock" back in place
  • "... plug the Professor into the hyper-drive ... " --->
  • plug 6 & 8pin into Corsair modular jacks
  • quickly bench test the 10pin end, & if it passes, then in very little time indeed you will have correctly hard-wired 90% of mio's volt/grd needs
  • Pow. The dream scenario. Estimated time? 15 minutes tops

Using a fully liberated mio harness w/10pin, all 9 out of the 10 required voltage/grounds are easily & efficiently tapped by using the above strategy. As I said, we will talk about the 10th wire, "5vsb" in a bit. The decision to use or "not" use 5vsb will be your final hurdle before your wire job is done. 

What we just learned is that:

  • the ideal way to wire your mio to this Corsair psu - or any psu on the market willing to use industry standard (or close) connections - is to back your mio's 10 pins out of the black bulk connector - re-use his 10pin & harness for this project - buy empty males - then slip mio's pins into correct slots for 3-5-12v/grd

- a pair of 6pin tapping connectors? -

I suppose one of you might figure out, yes, w/the right psu, you could power up mio w/a pair of 6pins strictly off the "sata-side" (not use an 8pin). I agree with that, if the psu tests positive for a pair of 12v pins per 6pin port:

  • my Seasonic has two 12v pins inside each 6pin port - so if I wanted to, I could run mio off a pair of 6pin connectors on that psu & not worry about using an 8pin connector
  • Corsair does not employ a pair of 12v's; 6&8pins are the correct method
  • mio needs ground quads & 12v trips - so if your psu does indeed have a pair of 12v's in its 6pin port, the math works, & you can build mio w/a pair of 6pins if you want to (& forgo the use of an 8pin) ... got it?

- read this next section if you're removing the mio from a stock harness -

1.13.14 Edit: The stock harness uses a large 66pin "modular" connector; however, there are like 80 wires total, lol, which means a dozen or so wires are "jumped" together: two wires can get crimped to one pin. When you go to back mio's pins out of your 66pin bulk connector, a few of its wires are crimped to some other wire that goes off in a different direction. For me this is a non-issue, for you it might become one, since you'll have to separate them, "altering" the wire harness as the result. You have several options here:

  • your best bet: remove mio from the harness you have now & buy a used full harness later. Use this option if you plan to ever reinstall your stock psu for resale of your desktop - & take your new psu with you!
  • or, simply buy a used harness now, & box your original up
  • if you do use your harness, w/plans to remove mio 10pin from it, you will alter the harness in the process: mio is jumped to other wires, you will have to repair reintegrate the wires/pins at some later date, sorry ... 

Whatever the case, what I found is that when you back all 10 mio pins out, another wire will back out w/it on around 5 to 7 pins. What you'll see is one wire on top of another. If the mio wire is the bottom wire, good:

  • snare psu pin w/needle nose on flat spot, take a mini-flathead, splay the insulation "securing" tabs back a little, grab as close as you can & yank/bend back n' forth the top wire out, pull it out. Usually the top wire should pull out, the mio wire should stay put in the pin; if it does, resecure the mio wire insulation, (that part of the psu pin that cinches the colored insulation) & it should be fine. If the mio wire backed out of the pin a bit, reinsert it/crimp it w/needle nose til it is taught in the pin.  

If your mio wire is on top? You deal with it this way:

  • unfold the insulation crimp metal, snare the flat point of the psu pin w/needle nose pliers, grab as close to the wire as possible &"tug" on both wires at the same time as hard as you can so you can free the bare wire ends from the pin. 9 out of 10 times the force of the factory crimp is breakable, if you tug hard enough; both wires free from the pin, & you'll surprisingly have a bare pin afterwards ready to "re-crimp" your mio wire to. This is probably due to the fact there are two wires in one pin, & they must cushion the blow of the factory stamper, to come out of the pin as "easy" like that. When you have the bare pin, reinsert mio wire & recrimp as you found it ...

I would advise these methods to retrieve the full mio harness with all or as many pins attached and reuseable as possible, since I know it works, but do allow for the probability things won't go for you as planned. My advice would be, have some new psu pins onhand just in case you damage a stock pin. If you're lucky, you can walk away after the method above w/all 10 pins intact, regardless some were "jumped" to some other wire. If not, be prepared to attach new pins as needed:

  • at some later date, the method above would necessitate "repairing" the old harness if that is plan, so make a note for yourself & put it in the box w/your harness of which wire tied to where, it may be useful a year from now ...

Also of note, the bulk connector uses a different style psu pin than normal:


these pins act like tongs, in the photo they are fully splayed, but w/a needle I could easily "shut them" ... they "move", lol, but they do clik into 6/8pin males just the same as molex pins do, after you repair/reset the lock arms of course. To remove the pin, I 1st take a mini-flathead, gently insert it & "close" one half of the pin head, then "close" the other half - like closing an open clam shell - til it looks more like a half-open clam shell. This step is usually necessary to help the actual pin removal tool slip down between the sides of the plastic & the metal pin to flatten the lock arms for pin removal, they then back out like normal psu pins should. Repair lock arms afterwards, resplay clam-shell, lol w/a needle/thumbtack (if it was closed prior for tool access):   

  • lastly, if you plan to re-use your 4' long 8pin cpu harness by backing its pins out of the bulk connector & clicking them into a standard 8pin male to plug into your psu 8pin port, six of its wires easily back out & two are tied/spliced. Its #8 blu-wht ties into mio's m6 blu-wht. One ground ties into the 24pin master harnesses #5blk-grd. This obviates the need for a new psu pin for it or for mio; one of them will need a new pin after liberation ...  

Liberating the mio harness intact may or may not be a breeze for you. For me it is. Even if I repair 2-3 wires by putting on new pins, it's no biggy. Par for the course. The ability to work w/a full intact mio harness is worth the cost of a few psu pins & a little time lost in the end. When in doubt? Buy a used harness off ebay & have some new psu pins onhand. When in doubt? Take your stock harness to a local pc shop, get online & show them the Reference Photo, point at mio harness, say: "I want you to hook that to my psu". I doubt they charge much to do it. You can always get a quote for free ... Best of luck to you & your original mio harness ... End Edit gold.JPG

This is a finished product & I do think it's worth it to go the extra mile


Other Harness Build Strategies Using the Same "Style" Connectors

Short of a liberated mio harness - or using new psu cables  (w/some new pins) as material - a good source for connecting materials for your needs would be 6pin &/or 8pin male-to-male extensions. If you can't find any of those, you can back the pins out of a 24pin male/male extension - why? - for pre-made wires w/correct psu pins on both ends.

Online shops also sell individual wires like this, 8" is plenty, $1 a piece, these are qwik-n-painless, excellent material to begin with. Make sure you purchase 18 gauge wire, since that is what stock mio wire is rated at:


these Mod/Smart pre-sleeved wires were available on, which might be out of business is now stocking Mod/Smart products, contact them about pre-made wires.

8831.Capture PRE.JPG

MainFrame Customs has male/female pre-crimped 16Gauge wire in 6"/8" lengths & longer, nice to have when making a 24pin extension for ax1200i, whos 24pin atx uses primarily 16g wire:

You can also use standard issue male-female 6/8pin extenders; the male ends plug into your psu (when you have the right type): 

  • the "female" connector end & its pins aren't usable, so snip them off, strip wire ends bare & apply new psu pins to the wire ends - solder if you prefer. Now your extender's a pleasure to work with. The psu pin ends are now set to plug straight into your empty mio 10pin connector if you have one


These type of y-split extension harnesses provide twice the wire of a single extension; if you use this as harness/wire material, snip off the useless "female" end, apply new psu pins to form basis of your mio harness ... you can buy these sleeved probably too ...

With this method? The bulk of the time & labor lost are in apllying the new psu pins, & since we're using out-of-the-bag connectors/wires who are in no way "pre-wired" or pre-slotted for our needs physically or by color, (ylw's/blk's) you should back any pins out then re-order them so they qualify as ylw(+) blk (-). Bench test your harness before using it, to confirm all 10pins meet volt/ground specs.  

When needed, back the pins out, put new pins on bare ends when called for, & when you're done you will've "tapped" & connected 9 wires making up 3-5-12v + ground.

  • all that remains will be the 10th & final "wire" ---> 5vsb
  • 5vsb can only be tapped from either end of the mthrbrd 24pin @ #9 "ppl" 
  • tap it @ the level of the case floor @ psu panel & send it over to mio
  • or tap it from all the way up at mthrbrd 24pin connector & send it all the way down to mio, a long conspicuous way ...
  • if you do not want to fool with your mthrbrd harness, you can buy a 24pin extension & tap 5vsb off of it instead
  • more info on 5vsb wire & tapping options is later, below

I have posted quite a few finished mio harness photos & material choices in this posting; look at what some of your choices are, & hopefully what I said above will help you build 9 of 10 mio wires into your hand-made harness ...


Different Approaches to Finding or Making a 10pin Mio Connector



You can look online for empty 10pins or liberate the whole thing off a stock harness, as said earlier. A stock mio 10pin can be gotten directly off your stock psu harness if you:

  • back its 10 pins out of the stock 66pin black bulk psu connector 
  • back all 10pins out of your white 10pin male - "steal " the 10pin connector off your harness!  ... hmmm ... but it works
  • snip your full mio harness out of the bulk connector like Alexander the Great & the Gordian Knot

You can purchase a used stock harness on eBay to snatch a 10pin or whole mio harness from, or, fool with your own harness for now & buy a replacement down the road ...


A Hand-made 10pin

Odd as it may sound, if you're one of those folks that do not want to fiddle w/your stock harness nor prefer to buy a used harness to fiddle w/then a working hand-made replica 10pin connector can be made of course from:

  • a typical male atx psu 20pin or 24pin connector off an old psu
  • a typical male 20pin or 24pin extender-extension-adapter
  • empty 20 or 24 pin plastic connector shells
  • Maybe the Dell P16 (8x8) connector if it keys right, I can't tell by small pics. Any similar pin count connector can work so long as it keys right by comparison to the sq-vs.-u Reference Photo on a 5x5 section you'll cut out

No matter what your source, for a typical 20/24pin psu connector, for example, there is a correctly keyed 5x5 ("10pin") section on it - in 2 potential places - that can be made into a suitable replica of a stock 10pin; by using a razorblade, utility knife, or dremel tool to cut the correct section out. I easily use a utility knife to widdle out home-made 10pin connectors. The correct 5x5 keyed sections have been circled in the photo below:

  • using a 20pin means you won't have a "locking tab" (positive latch); a 24pin, when cut right, will retain the semblance of a useable latch
  • the "top" 5x5 keyed section is easier to cut out (but you lose the lock tab) while: 
  • the "lower section" requires it be cut out on both ends (& if you use a 20pin - you lose the lock tab regardless) - so cut the easier top 5x5 section out of a 20pin
  • if you use a 24pin - the lower 5x5 has to be cut out to retain a lock tab

Look at the pic below, look at your stock 10pin, look at the Reference Photo, then make your replica on your connector candidate of choice.



10pin harness from an 8- 12" 24pin extender

We've heard by now we can try 6/8pin males. We can take a male-female extender to get a male connector + wires. If you buy a 24pin male-female extender (but male to male is best since you have the "right" pins on both ends) - about 8-12" long? - you can make a 10pin out of it, but you can also have the basis of your wiring harness too if you cut off the female end (or back the pins out of male ends, lol). You'd have to attach new psu pins to those bare ends, slip those pins into whatever source your 6/8pin males come from ... we realize our wire colors are all wrong this way from the start, so, to fix that, back pins out, rearrange wires, steal wires of a better color from the discarded section. An 8" harness should reach any psu out there, but you may need a long m5ppl tapping wire. Maybe toss a couple extra bucks at a 24" extender, who knows. 24pin extenders are the root of a better workable solution to working with all ylw/all black wires from typical pci/cpu extensions.

Whatever your strategy, whatever materials you use, you still need to decide if m5ppl is to be standard 5v or the real deal 5vsb. Which is to say: where do we tap 5vsb from to begin with?  What is 5vsb anyway?


+5vsb power: what it is & why you need it

5vsb, 'stand-by' power for our purposes means when your stock psu is plugged in - but the pc itself is off - the stock psu feeds +5v 'stand-by' power to mio & mthrbrd - their stock ppl wires are "hot 5v" when the psu is plugged in/pc off - hence mio tell-tale led & mthrbrd led are lit, mthrbrd can charge usb devices:

  • 5vsb in an aftrmrkt psu can only be tapped from the so-called "#9ppl" wire of a 24pin harness; either down @ the modular input or up at the mthrbrd 24pin area, those are your two choices
  • Corsair twins have proprietary 24pins; the modular connectors "branch" into a 14+10pin (Seasonic branches to 18+10pin)
  • "extenders" are not made for the 10/14 or 10/18 scheme; you can make your own special extension like I did, or employ a standard 24pin extension up top @ the mthrbrd area & tap it
  • if they are available, you can buy a spare 24pin mthrbrd harness to tap, preferably down @ the modular side of the harness 

You can not do a power supply swap & run your mio as Alienware & as nature intended it unless you tap 5vsb power somehow. To tap 5vsb from your new psu - w/out toying w/your new 24pin harness - you can buy a (short or long) 24pin male-to-female extender/extension/adapter.

ax-1200(i) would require 16awg to match its 24pin master harness wire/pin specification, & again, you can't use an extender on it's 2-part 24pin proprietary since they don't fit. Either buy a spare from Corsair to tap, use an extender @ mthrbrd end of harness, or tap the one they gave you at the chassis. Find the best method, & tap it - what are you waiting for? 

The "other" way, & the best place to tap 5vsb is from your 24pin chassis connector @ the modular input in your case floor area, next to your mio harness. Before I mention "backing pins out", here is a link to using a stand-alone connector to quickly tap 24pin #9ppl 5vsb either on your 24pin master harness or more preferably an extension, (w/the right 16 gauge):

RadioShack/Advance Auto etc "Tap-In Squeeze Connectors" "Quick Splice"




If you tap your #9ppl master harness this way up top or down low, if you ever remove your psu (before you sell your pc for instance), you would remove that mating/tapping connector above, & consider a bottle of black "plasti-dip"/Liquid plastic. Put dabs on your #9ppl (Coarsair #9blk, lol) to mend & restore any insulation the connector bit into. Huh?

This is how I easily tap into 5vsb on a Corsair, Seasonic & Hale90 24pin mthrbrd harness at the modular/psu end:

Find 5vsb #9 on your 24pin harness; if the 24pin harness branches into a 10+14pin, 10+18pin or similar, trace where 5vsb branched off to, by sight or continuity test:

  • if it is purple, trace it by sight down to the modular end, & back its pin out 
  • If it is "black" (due to an all-black harness) or perhaps some other color ("all blue" "all red" custom harness etc)) do a continuity test between 24pin #9in & the modular end until you find it, & back its pin out
  • snare psu pin w/needle nose pliars on its flat edge
  • prise the wing tabs apart (which are "gripping" the wire insulation) w/a tiny flathead screwdriver
  • Optional: I take a razorblade, & lightly score around the circumference of the 1-2mil of final insulation - which the wing tab "grabbed" - then score it again horizontally & prise that insulation sliver out w/my mini flat-head - this allows a better metal-to-metal contact at the point of splice/crimp/solder of a new tap wire, what we would call "removing some of the insulation" (A = before / B = after):


  • wire is crimped sturdily to its pin, so simply lift wire straight "up" (C)
  • w/the wire lifted up - its thread ends still safely crimped & some of its insulation collar removed, we can slip a new jumper wire under it (when finished, this wire will lay on top of the new jumper) & now we have some choices on how to couple them together on the same pin 

Below, I use a thick needle to make a "hole" through the wire I pulled up on (B) - to make a hole for insertion of the new tapping wire through. Strip the new wire (twist the ends) ... the new "blue" tap wire bare ends will insert "inside of" hole & rest "under" the crimped ppl wire (C). The psu pin should cradle the blue vinyl sheath as in photo "A", so stuff it in there good. You can slip heatshrink on to help hold them together & apply heat. Slowly compress/flatten top crimped wire to lay flat on new tap wire, (use mini-screwdriver to help coax wires into pin),& tightly crimp pin wing tabs tightly closed w/needle-nose, solder them together (C/D), reinsert in your connector (after you reset the lock arms):



  • You've tapped into 5vsb!
  • if you chose not to use solder, hmmm, rethink that, but if no, make sure you sqeeze the wing tabs tight, & for added stability on an unsoldered pin, use heatshrink & a cable tie to secure m5/#9ppl together. Right?

Another good method, similar to above, is when you have the initial needle-hole through the ppl wire, & you stripped the "blue" wire end bare, & insert it into hole (A), when it comes through the hole, you can "split it", fork-ed, like a snake's tongue, like a Y, (B) then wrap the wire back around itself (C):



In photo C, wrap the two split ends back around the ppl wire, trim excess,lay ppl wire flat, apply hetshrink, crimp wing tabs closed, & solder it. Makes a good connection this way, the blue wire won't tug out ...

- 5vsb break away connector -

If you do a similar 5vsb tap method, chances are you'll want a brewak away connector for your tap wire. Without one, your mio harness purple wire will be directly tied to your 24pin (or 24pin style extension), joined at the hip ... no biggy ... but for ease of service I prefer to put a connector on my 5vsb tap wire. A typical 2pin or 4pin works nicely. For instance, make your tap wire 2 inches, put a new pin on its end & slip it in one half of a connector ... put a reciprocal pin/connector on your m5ppL wire ... unsnap it when m5ppl needs distached from 24pin ie when mio harness should distich from 24pin/extension.

Here are some Seasonic x-1250 harnesses I built for a UK forum member:


The main nthrbrd 24pin harness supplied w/the psu splits into a modular end pair (10pin+18pin), which need 6" extensions to reach the chassis. Here I've built individual 18pin & 10pin extensions, & the mio harness. On the 10pin extension - where 5vsb (purple) is tapped - I made a 2 inch tap wire & put a 4pin connector end on it. Mio harness wears the receiving 4pin connector; they plug together, & break away for service. See photos of my other harnesses; most wear a 5volt break away connector which allows 5vsb tapped from a 24pin source, or, "converted" to standard 5volts "jumped".  


A pro splice n' dice job might work for you to "patch" a mio 5vsb wire into a 24pin harness or extension. You can look online / search videos for the many ways you can join & tap wires together ...


Now that we know how to tap 5vsb, why do we need it again?

I do think this is an issue that needs addressed since to tap 5vsb is annoying. As we browse the original thread, we're told little more than the member integrated a Corsair 1200watter into his case, got pwr/grd for his 10 pin by tapping into his psu by:

  • "a mod to a SATA cable & Molex that comes with the Corsair power supply".

Later he says:

  • "I just cut the 10 pin connector from Dell's PSU, & attached to a Molex cable & Sata cable from the new PSU (Corsair 1200AX). So I have two cables providing the energy to MIO board".

That's all we're told. Clearly he did not & could not get 5vsb from a sata or molex. Clearly he got 5volts to his #5ppl - but - it wasn't 5vsb, which it couldn't be as described: his mio wasn't "hot 5v" while his pc is off but psu plugged in.

The master i/o is hot 5v when the psu is plugged in/pc off for reasons:

  • #1 of which is so the ALX model's 5v motor for the odd panel can drop down when the Alienhead is depressed when pc off/psu plugged in. 5vsb might help recharge the batteries, it certainly helps "brighten" the theatre lights w/higher volts then the 3v batts do by themselves, & int lights can come on w/out any batteries installed
  • The master i/o "power-drain reset" might even be based on 5vsb, who knows? My 5vsb's hot baby, I don't need to find out & it may stay hot 5vsb for other reasons I'm not here to debate.

So when he says in his post-build thread: "full functionality" w/his mio w/just "sata+molex", I doubt it as I should. And so should you. In the interest of rewiring my mio 10pins w/5vsb I tap the 24pin or tap an extension & toss a break-away connector on plain & simple. Result? Full System Integration & you can quote me ...

- Turn m5ppl "5vsb" into "Standard" 5volts -

If we back-engineer what the original member might have done, we can assume he simply patched his m5ppl into a (red) 5volt psu pin port, maybe spliced it into an actual (red) 5volt wire (the dreaded "splice n dice w/black electrical tape job"), who knows. However, your mio will work if you send m5ppl "standard" 5volts grabbed from a 5volt psu source, it will work normal, but you lose what I call "5vsb features".  

  • If you want real 5vsb power, tap your 24pin or extension as stated earlier

If it's too much, well I hear ya, but in the end, m5ppl has to get 5volts from somewhere, so Plan B is to find a standard 5volt source, right?, so long as you know the reasons why mio was designed to have 5vsb power will not & can not be availabe to it through just your sata/molex "standard " 5v source ... your psu - hence your mio - won't & can't go hot 5v on m5ppl 'til you turn your pc on, got it?

  •  standard 5 volts only goes hot when the pc/psu is turned on

Apparently, the ax1200i has a pair of 5volt pins in its 6pin port (it is otherwise "unused" in their 4/5 wire sata/molex cables). That would be a great place to grab standard 5volts for your mio m5ppl wire.

  • put a psu pin on your mio m5ppl wire and plop it into your 6pin to give it standard 5volts
  • I do not know if the ax1200 has a pair of 5volt pins, you'd have to check w/a voltmeter. If it does, do as above, if not, we'll think of ways to grab 5volts elsewhere

If your sata port only has one 5volt pin, you can jump your ppl wire into your red wire/pin, (see jumping/tapping wires from earlier, above).

 *** - Optional Jumper Method - ***

One method I use to "jump" standard 5volts to m5ppl, is I mate a 2" red jumping wire into my m10red pin. I insert this jumped pair into the psu 5volt slot of the 6pin (sata) connector. From there, I crimp male psu pins on the red jumper & ppl wire ends, pop a 4pin female on them.

  • I happen to use 4pin male/females
  • 2pin male/females are just as good if not better

I then assemble a reciprocal 4pin male w/a one inch "bridge wire" which can "cap" the 4pin female connector, so m5ppl "gets" 5volts from the jumped red wire, see photo:


With the simple method above, 5volts (dual red wires) is sent to two places:

  • straight to mio m10red as normal
  • "jumped" to mio m5ppl - via the 4pin w/bridge-cap
  • m5ppl is now receiving standard 5volts

If you or anybody else ever want to go back & grab real 5vsb off a 24pin (or 24pin extension) - you can ---> simply pop the male 4pin bridge cap off & plug in your new 4pin male w/5vsb wire tapped from a 24pin, as in the photo below:


  • ppl wire can now be hot 5vsb through the 24pin (via new 4pin male)
  • red "jumper" is dormant/unused in the 4pin female side ... lovely ...

With this method, "tapping" w/a 2" red wire, using a break away connector w/or w/out a bridge cap, will allow your mio the option to have standard 5volts OR 5vsb, depending on your mood ... sweet ...

Again, in the photo below, mio (left) has this same application & is wearing a removable 4pin male bridge cap to "turn" ppl wire into standard 5v, but the situation is totally reversible & it can wear a 4pin male tapped into a 24pin at anytime so ppl can get real 5vsb ... 

The bare mio (right) you can see I jumped/tapped the red 5v wire ... it too will wear a 4pin female connector which can accept a 4pin male setup whichever way your 5volts design calls for:

  • it can wear a simple 4pin male bridge cap so ppl gets standard 5v
  • it can get real 5vsb when the 24pin is tapped; if so, the red jumper lays dormant, unused in the 4pin (female)
  • this "added" 4pin "red jumper" scheme allows a dual-option, dual purpose setup; it allows you the ability to quickly send standard 5v to m5ppl w/a bridge cap  --> without locking 5vsb out completely, because at a later date you can always make a new 4pin male indeed tapped into a 24pin which grabs real 5vsb & sends it to m5ppl as should be the case

the pair.jpg

If you have questions about what I'm calling the "Optional Jumper Method", & an explanation of what the three photos from above are telling you, just ask ...

In a nutshell:

  • you already have to tap a 5volt ("red") wire for m10red
  • if you "mate"/"jump" another two inch ("red") wire along with it, you can create a back-door for yourself through manipualtion of a 4pin male
  • a 4pin bridge cap "turns" the ppl wire (m5ppl) into standard 5volts
  • a tapped 24pin - also wearing a 4pin male - "turns" m5ppl into real 5vsb ...


Are we having fun yet?

By now we've done a crash course in how to work with the Corsair ax1200i, all power grounds were tapped & you either tapped 5vsb off a 24pin or by-passed the step & tapped 5v from the psu instead & made m5ppl standard 5v by use of some form of y-split or jump method. Your harness should be done now. 

  • Do a visual inspection of your 10pin relative to the Reference Photo stock wire colors vs volt/grd. Check the psu-side connectors against your master wiring diagram/sketch as well. Tug on your wire pins to make sure they're all locked in their connectors. Take a continuity tester to it to make sure its conducting on both ends / no wires are touching that shouldn't. If it passes scrutiny:
  • "Bench" test the harness now, for obvious reasons. In my minds eye, your psu is either still on a table, or in your case but not plugged into mthrbrd 24pin or cpu 8pin. Plug in the modular master i/o harness connector only. Do not plug in mio. You need to confirm volt/grd pinout 1st, verify what mio will "see" on his end of those 10 pins when you go to plug him in later
  • Plug psu in. If you tapped 5vsb on the 24pin, take your voltmeter, probe harness on mio end to find a ground; probe m5ppl for hot +5vsb  When you've found 5vsb, find it again on the other three grounds to confirm they are grounds. Last? Probe 3v, 5v, 12v trips to make sure they aren't "hot" with psu plugged in, psu "off"
  • Next, hot wire psu "on", find a ground, test 12v triplet m1-m3-m6, test m8 3v m10 5v m5 5v - it will be hot +5v when the psu on, no matter if it was wired 5vstandby or 5v standard. Test volts by use of all ground quads so you know they are still grounds on #'s m2-4-7-9 (lol), this is to test they aren't hot, for some odd reason

This simple harness test is safe. The harness isn't plugged into anything, soooo. If any of your volt/ground pins fail this test? It's an indication a pin is in the wrong slot, either in the psu connector(s) or mio's 10pin. You can remove your harness, probe mio's 10pins relative to psu connector end(s) with a full-blown continuity test, find which pin(s) is/are wrong, back it out, put it in right slot etc

  • When your volt-grd tests pass on all 10 of mio's wires/pins, your harness sounds like you built yourself a winner. Wouldn't you agree? The above steps should have confirmed it outputs what it's supposed to, & mio will see what its supposed to when it's time. Install psu, plug mio in, try your psu out ... smells like victory


SeaSonic x-1250

The build quality of Seasonic demands we look into its 6pin sata ports as sources for all 3-5-12v-grd (pwr/grd). Inspecting its 12pin (6x6) ports, we see it keys up to either a hand-made 12pin, or a pair of 6pin pci-e males w/out center locks, as a fall-back in case you don't want to cut up a new cable or buy one, or can't find an empty 12pin ...


NZXT Hale90 v1

In an all 8pin "universal" modular layout like Hale90 v1, where the front modular panel can power every supplied 8pin cable & connector type they give you on every port, to find 3-5-12v grd - to define & solve their final "4x4" pinouts - you gain much insight for your data sheet by looking at & probing the cables they gave you, trace known wires back to pins etc. - then for certainty I would take their 8pin male cpu/graphics cable & 8pin sata/molex cable, hot-wire psu "on", find a known ground pin, use my voltmeter & resolve their 8pin in a matter of moments. I can do just as much with an 8pin extender: find ground & probe all pins.

To solve one of their 8pins is to solve all of their 8pins:

  • their 8pin (4x4) "universal" panel by definition carries 3-5-12v grd in every 8pin port. Chances are there's one 3v pin, one 5v pin, three 12v pins, three ground pins. The differing sata/molex/pci-e cables they supply with the psu - more importantly their 8pin male connectors - are pinned out at the factory in the right "combinations". Pci-e cables only pinout for 12v-grd: so that graphics cards only "see" 12v-grd. Where-as sata cables pinout so they tap 3v grd 5v grd 12v. Molex pins out as 5v-grd-grd-12v. Their 8pin ports are fixed, universal: it's their cables that pinout - their 8pin males pinout in the right combination to deal with that.

Hale90 v1 can accept a standard male 8pin "power/cpu" connector- & because it can - mio can mate to it quickly & easily after you solve one of their 8pin port pinouts, find 3-5-12v grd, tap it accordingly for mio.

What this tells us is that any single 12volt rail psu w/an all 8pin panel can probably be used in our Area 51 w/almost no trouble. I am not telling you to buy a Hale90, I am telling you that if you buy one like it - when it gets there - do what I did & test one of its ports - solve its pinout - then tap it correctly with standard male 8pins in any port you choose. Mio will need ground quads, & mathematically the 8pin port on this psu carries 12v triplets ground trips. It does not carry 4 ground pins per 8pin port: you will factor in the need for two male connectors to tap all pwr/grounds with -or- use the y-splitter / jumper trick for the last ground & cut your connector count down to one. Tap 5vsb if you can, y-split/jumper stndrd 5v if not.


What have we learned ...

By solving a master i/o wire connector scheme for the 6pin + 8pin front modular panel like Corsair ax1200(i), the formula for a master i/o connector scheme for all single 12v rail power supplies on the market like it may have been solved: tap their 6/8 with your 6/8 & follow the provided directions. For an all 8pin like Hale90 v1, one or two male 8pins is the cure. The simplicity of Hercules 1600 w/stndrd 6/8pin. Any fully modular single 12v rail psu on the market should be a good candidate for inclusion in your Area51, if they're using standard 6/8 or a derivative. 

We learned that some companies design their modular panel ports (Hale90 v1 8pin) where anything can plug into one port: sata, molex, graphics card. We learned from Corsair (6/8pin) that they chose to give sata/molex on one side (6pin) & exclusive 12v-grd ("graphics/cpu") on the 8pin. Corsair ax-i, Hale90v1/Hercules, they will all wire into an Area51 in their own unique way on top of the fact you'll make your own unique harness. There IS no best way. There IS no one way. There are many ways. It's a drain to think about it, lol. If in a year from now, 100 people have used this article to install a new psu, & we all met up in Albuquerque for a convention: would it surprise us if we each had some variation on a theme? No two wire jobs alike? Uh huh.

I think we're about to the end of this discussion for now. Let's go over a few final things, & then I'll let you browse newegg for candidate psu's to consider. You won't see psu's the same way again now will ya ?????


Distilling it all

  • Mio needs a 10pin
  • popular modular psu's seem to be using one or two standard female connectors, tappable w/standard (or modded variation) males
  • the harness wires between them must have psu pins on both ends
  • 5vsb has methods which can tap it or by-pass it into stndrd 5v
  • The front panel fixed pinout assignments must be found & resolved
  • 3v 5v 5v(sb) 12v x3 grd x4 must be present in the correct mio 10pin slots before you plug your harness into the actual board (& mthrbrd) & turn "power on"
  • How you build your harness & what materials you use is up to you silver.JPG

 Using random materials I was able to make a custom harness


Your finished product can be as imaginative as your starting materials


Mop-Up Work: Other Tasks & Considerations

The psu fan faces up. The ventilation area now admittedly isn't ideal, but, this is unavoidable: "c'est la vie" say the old folks. You would of course need to be extra careful while working inside the case so screws etc do not fall inside the psu case, since mounting the fan upright isn't negotiable:

  • I've been using 140mm square pieces of typical black window screen over my psu fans, to help catch screws & filter for dust etc. or you might try a 140mm dust filter - or make your own etc - it's advisable

Also notice your stock psu rear black honey-comb trim plate requires a vertical wall plug mount & no provision for an on/off switch; you may or may not be able to re-use that trim, so buying a "spare" trim on eBay & modding it is a good idea.

The 1st daunting task of note is removing the old psu & its entire harness. To get at the top stock cpu 8pin, the hard drive bay door panel must come off, & the full plastic hdd bay trim & its led light as well in order to both remove the old 8pin cpu connector & route your new 8pin: 

  • most brands provide you w/a 24"-26" cpu cable - therefore - a cpu 8pin extension might be required, depending on psu choice
  • for my Seasonic & Xfx swap, I routed my 26" cpu cables along the back mthrbrd sill to forgo the use of an cpu cable extension


cpu cable routed along back sill; I was lucky I didn't need an extension

The "extension-less" work around is to route your cpu cable along the back sill & hope it reaches the port, or, re-use your (a) stock cpu 8pin harness:

  • back the stock A-51 8pin cpu cable pins from the bulk connector, apply new pins if needed & insert them into an 8pin connector that fits your psu, correctly pinned out of course for 12v/grd per your master sketch/volt/ground data chart.
  • a simple bench test (w/out mthrbrd & mio connected), psu jump-started, & a voltmeter can reveal cpu 8pin is pinned out right & psu modular end

Moving on, you must disassemble some of the interior to get at the stock harness sata connections behind the pci fan housing / remove your videocard(s) to get @ & remove the 24pin mthrbrd harness connector. Here's an Area-51 teardown video link on youtube by A-ware if you need a tad more more help with basic parts removal: You can also consult your owner manual, & adobe pdf service manual. What you need to do to install a new psu in your case should be rather obvious if you stare at it long enough.


- a mthrbrd harness extension? Say it ain't so ... -

Will you need a '24pin' mthrbrd harness extension? Area-51 is an ultra-tower, it's oversized; most mthrbrd harnesses are a standard 24" long, & so is our stock mthrbrd ATX harness.

The reason our stock 24" mthrbrd harness "reaches" the stock psu is:

  • most psu's are 7"-7.5" long, but the stock psu is a whopping 8.5" long
  • the 66pin bulk connector is next to the case wall

From what I've seen, most psu brands orient the mthrbrd ports over on the left;

  • the new psu will be 1"-1.5" shorter then stock
  • & the port(s) are located a few inches further away on the 'left'
  • this plays havoc, because if you plug into the psu, uh, you can't plug into the mthrbrd: you'll be a few inches away

If your new mthrbrd cable just doesn't want to reach, there are a few things you can do about it. Your new mthrbrd cable will have two ends:

  • the true 24pin end that plugs into your mthrbrd has a standard pinout
  • the modular end, which probably has its own 'special pinout' may also be a 24pin, or 'branch' into dual connectors, like a 10+14 etc

The 1st thing to try is to unscrew the black cable mngmt snap organizer, "drop it down"; it can/will orient to "other" lower case wall screw holes. If dropping it down doesn't help, you can temporarily remove it - & check if that helps your mthrbrd harness to reach - if so, you can always reinstall it after you find or figure out what type of extension you'll need

cable tidy.jpg

To help get my Asus to work w/my stock psu, I dropped the cable mngmnt "thingy" down a rung, choosing different holes to align it to the tray; that may or may not help w/your stock mthrbrd & harness to reach (sata ports might be in the way) but it's worth a try

If you reach the point you know you need an extension, they are easily found on eBay & online pc shops etc - a basic 24pin extension - after your mthrbrd 24pin comes out of the cable organizer, (whether you lowered the cable organizer or not) you plug your mthrbrd's 24pin end into it, & the extension does the rest. A 4" extension or so should suffice, & if you "tap" the purple 5vsb wire for your mio harness, you'll need to work an 18"-24"-30" wire into the scheme as the result.

My cases have windows; I didn't place my mthrbrd extension "up top" where I can see it, I made my own extension "down below" @ the modular end:

forum extension.JPG

my 7" hand-made ax1200(i) mthrbrd extension; 5vsb (w/break away connector) taps on the extension, not the main mthrbrd harness ...

Hand-making your own extension takes a bit of work. For the ax1200i extension above, I started w/a new 24pin ax1200i harness, I snipped off the 10+14 end to about 7", applied 24 new psu pins & popped on new 10+14 reciprocal connectors & sleeved it. I take this route to ensure I'm using genuine materials made from genuine cables; yours could be a similar situation.

Alternatively, I could buy a typical 8" 24pin extension like this one:


If I'm making an extension for ax1200i, which uses a dual 10+14 modular end, I'd back off both the unusable 24pin ends, & pop new 10+14 male&female connectors on it, while tapping 5vsb also, plain & simple.

Alternatively, knowing I'd have to buy 10+14 male/female connectors, I could buy pre-sleeved wire like below as my material, & assemble a custom 10+14:


this pre-made 8" wire has new male & female psu pins @ both ends; granted, @ $1 a piece you'd need 24 of them, but these are so easily worked with, you can't exactly let $25-$30 stop your psu swap. This is also less labor-intensive then backing all 46 pins out of the pre-made extension from earlier above.

Keep in mind that if you begin your install w/a standard 24pin extension & you take my advice by jumping standard 5volts & using a bridge cap to make mio pin5 purple standard 5volts, you should have things squared away to at least begin using your new psu, & you'll have all the time in the world to go back, rethink things, & possibly work the kinks out of your wiring/connecting scheme.

The new ax1500i comes w/an extra-long 28" mthrbrd harness which might reach, but I do offer a mini 3" extension for it, for no other reason than tapping 5vsb off of it, & not fooling w/the original cable. If you have a better idea or solution for dealing w/standard-issue mthrbrd harnesses in the A-51, let us know ... I myself have found that a hand-made extension that hides in the case floor & gets its 5vsb wire tapped is about the best solution, all-be-it a hand-full to fabricate start-to-finish.

How To: Custom Individually Sleeved Set

- A Basic ax1200i / ax1500i 24pin Extension -

An AwareClub Member's bought nice individually sleeved types for ax1200i/1500i

-box - Copy.JPG

We're going to integrate his new cable set into his beloved Area-51: to do so requires special cables. Oh joy.

This brand of specialty cable set was chosen since it uses soft flexible parachute-cord (paracord) individual wires sleeving, & so will streamline their way throughout all 4 corners of Dream Land. I'll comb through these knowing he needs the vitals, but I can 'burn' a few extras. As is typical, he gets two cpu cables, so I home in on the spare Cpu-Eps 8pin as my material. Here. I'll walk through making an extension. Later? I'll walk you through the m i/o 10p harness, using an extra molex cable I can burn for the 10pin. Connectors are shown late; I'll be outfitting these w/some new psu male & female 16gauge pins, force crimped & soldered. 1st, I back the pins out of the cpu 8pin. B4 backing out pins I insert a solid-metal rod inside the pin 1st, so it doesn't smoosh when I use my filed down screwdriver tip to extract it - compress the pin's locking wing tabs one side at a time ... 


Both ends of the cpu 8pin have had their pins backed out: I have 8 wires, but I have 16 'factory' psu pins to work with, since it is double-ended7658.PTDC0005.JPG

Most cpu 8pins are 24" long, this one is 27.5" (700mm). The basic premise: cut each wire into thirds. 8-wires x three = 24 wires. One cpu cable is enough material to make my 24-wire extension. For each wire? I'll have two new smaller wires w/factory pins, here each is cut down to 7.5" & will need to be outfitted w/a new male psu pin of course. The 'center wire' will need one male & one female psu pin applied. The cpu 8pin connector? I'll use that later on for the mio harness, to tap three 12v & four grounds 'in one fell swoop'. The molex cable will supply the 6pin for 3v & 5v. I'm about to integrate 5volts stand-by: I'll tap it right here right now: 1362.PTDC0014.JPG

Blessed with an eight-wire 27" cpu cable, if I cut each 27" wire up into 'thirds' I get my 24 'wires' for my 24pin extension. My target length for each wire is 7.5": two wires @ 7.5" = 15", so I have 12.5" piece leftover. For the rest of the wires? I cut that 12.5" down to 7.5" of course & toss the scrap. For 5volts stand-by? I make an exception. Above - @ about the 7.5" mark - I score the insulation off: 1/2 the exposed wire will insert into a new psu pin, I will fold it back over on itself & allow the 5" remnant to become my 5vsb 'tapping wire' (below)


7.5" end (top) gets a new female pin. The 5" jumper pin will be housed in a 4pin connector later.

In Part 2, I'll give the master i/o harness a reciprocal 4pin, so it can grab 5VSB on "#9 Ppl" from the pin above6253.PTDC0019.JPG

16 wires had factory female pins. 8 wires I had to apply my own females. On the left side? Crikey! I have to apply 24 new male pins on that side. For a matching specialty harness like this I've got my work cut-out for me. 6661.PTDC0020.JPG_4118.PTDC0025.JPG'

ax1200i - ax1500i get a 10pin & 14pin on the end of the 24p atx cable. I've bought male & female 4p 10p & 14p connectors. Now that all my wires are dressed w/new pins, time to plop 'em in their slots6175.PTDC0034.JPG

Did I say plop 'em in their slots? I meant: about time to get paid. Finished. ax1200i ax1500i have the bottom half of their modular panel orient so that the connectors pop in upside down. Like in the photo above, the 10p & 14p pop in upside down; I compensate for this on the left end, by giving the wire routing a pre-twist, making sure the left end, the one which connects into the real 24p (10p + 14p) atx mthrbrd main harness, has the positive latches facing 'up'. Here he gets a two-piece extension. If I was using just bare wires for this build, I would have 'sleeved it' before popping the modular ends on. A one-piece extension, as in my other photos

- Building the MIO 10Pin w/the Same Cable Material -

The cable set provided a 21" molex cable (21" between modular 6p & 1st molex head), so I cut the molex head off, backed the 4wires from the molex 6pin modular connector, cut each of the 4 wires into thirds, netting twelve 7" wires. Four have factory pins. MIO needs 10 wires, so I apply new pins to the remainders.


w/pins on both ends & my connector materials (4p, 6p, 8p,10p) I'm ready to pop pins into correct slots.


Pay Day: ax1200i is now ready to go into A-51. The proper way

edit: I later designed & sent a Sneaky Pete adapter

10p mini.JPG

the long 14p extension won't be used, just the little 10p 5VSB tapping adapter above


Probable Parts List

A broad list of the probable gear you might need to scare up:

  • 20/24pin: to create mio 10pin replica. To practice pin removal on discarded section. Sources are empty 24pins, extensions, from old psu (remember you need 8"-12" of 18awg wire if you use a replica 10pin cut from a 24pin as your harness building material)
  • 24pin atx extender/extension/adapter (3"- 24"). Top quality, 16awg if you can get one. You may need a pair of them, one as a 10pin w/harness wires to work with, one as your extender to tap 5vsb on

24pin atx male female.jpg_4505.x.jpg'

  • Bare empty 6/8pin connectors. 8pins can be called "eps/power/power-supply/cpu" - or the differently keyed "vga/pci-e 8pins" or "6+2". Standard pci-e 6pins may "fit" other keyed 6pins even if they don't look like they'll "key" right. The square keys must match, while u-shapes can fit squares, lol. That's why they fit when they look like they can't
  • 2-4-6-6+2-8-4+4pin male -female extender(s) as required, depending on harness & key count requirements on new psu modular female(s). There are many "key types", yours must be correctly keyed relative to whatever psu you're working with, you may widdle out the right keys with a razor. Squares must match, u's CAN fit into squares, lucky us! Y-splitters dole out 6 or 8pin males & plenty of wires.


  • *Sata &/or 8pin cpu extender(s) (if new psu sata/cpu cables too short)

***Note: psu companies, like Corsair etc, dis-allow user to install male cable connectors into psu ports that they didn't provide & pinout for you. You can apply "extenders" etc to the device ends of their cables, no doubt, but you should not plug males into the modular chassis end, not until YOU pin them out first, right? Right. If you apply an 8pin male to your old cpu/mthrbrd cable, with the intent to re-use it due to its longer size, no need for extender etc, YOU HAVE TO PIN IT OUT CORRECTLY ON YOUR 8pin MALE MODULAR END BEFORE YOU PLUG IT IN. The cpu mthrbrd end has to see 12v+grd, so your male end has to pinout correctly for 12v + grd at the psu panel. Use your master chart, pinout the male with it so the old harness gets ground on its 4 blacks, & 12v on its whites & blue-whites pairs....

"Re-using" your stock cpu 8pin cable by putting a new male end onto it to tap your psu pwr/grd is a MODIFICATION. Pin it out correctly, & yes you can re-use it without the need to remove it, route a new one, & possible pay for the use of an $8 cable extender ... that's my thrifty side talking to your thrifty side

  • Atx psu pin removal tool (sturdy thumbtack/needle is perfect also)
  • Needle (to re-splay flattened atx pinlock arms/tangs after removal)
  • Wire ***
  • New razorblade (to cut a 10pin out) utility knife, dremel etc
  • Needle nose pliars (to hold your work, crimp psu-style pin wing tabs)
  • Mini flat screwdriver (to prise pin wire tabs/crimps apart, splay lock arms)
  • Digital Volt-Ohm meter, aka multi-tester / voltmeter
  • Opt.: a "pack" of new psu atx pins, Molex part# 39-00-0038 / 18awg/9a max, & there are 16awg's also

24pin with pins.jpg

  • Opt.: Mesh sleeving + heat shrink tube (to finish the presentation or "repair" meshed extenders you took apart to build a harness)
  • Opt.: Soldering iron + fine solder (to secure wires to psu-style pins)
  • Opt.: Bullet-type or similar (male/female) Connectors for splicing, & a stand-alone side-by-side connector for tapping 5vsb, 16/18awg 🙂 Blue tapping pics w/video link from earlier
  • Opt.: Black Plasti-Dip aka Liquid Plastic aka "Plastic-in-a-Bottle": for added insulation on any exposed wires/pins inside the 10pin; usually for beginners who do a crummy wiring/splicing/crimping/soldering job. Helps ensure wires/pins that need isolated do not touch. Repairs/reseals insulation on 24pins after removing side-by-side tapping connector   
  • Cable Ties / Twist Ties

*Likely places to get or order gear: TigerDirect Frys eBay Performance-pcs MainframeCustoms

Your various sundries will be more or less depending on your overall plan


edit 9.15.15 How-To: Corsair HX1200i

kiax (22).jpg

- New HX1200i shares same familiar Type3 pinout as ax1200i / ax1500i / similar Corsair psu's -

Corsair Ribbon Cables10p MIO / 24p Extension / Cpu 8p Extension

Two forum member hired me to make custom Corsair swap cables for RM & HX series so you'll find both builds below; black ribbons are used in some models like RM850 / Hx1000i & 1200i / ax1500i etc.

On 'all' Corsair 24pin ATX cables the modular psu end branches into a 10pin & 14pin, so in order to make a '24pin' extension I'll make 10p / 14p extensions. Got it? See photos. The 24 inch CPU 8p cable they provide's a tad short so I'll make it a matching 8pin extension. The mio 10pin will be made from ribbons of course where on HX I'll slap on 6p/8p ends & for RM a pair of 6p ends in order to tap power for the 10p mio.

5VSB is present on the 24pin ATX cable, more precisely, since it branches into 10p/14p, 5VSB is on the 10p section, & it was 'tapped / jumped', using a 4pin break-away connect as I normally do. Find the HX / RM ribbon-builds below:

here I've started with a new 24pin ATX ribbon, I'll cut the 10p / 14p branch (psu end of cable) off:

hx (1).JPG

hx (2).JPG

above: the beginning of a short 5VSB tap wire: aka 'jumper'. right now the ribbons are 8.5" long

below: my target length is 7"; I trim all ribbons down to 7" except 5VSB wire; 5VSB wire is 8.5" long from above, right?; I attach a male pin to it at the 7" mark, flip it back, slap another pin on it; it's one wire, all I've done is strip some insulation off at the 7" mark to help create the 'jumper': 

hx (3).JPG

hx (4).JPG

above: factory end w/new pins left >< I attach 24 male pins + 5VSB 'break-away male pin'

below: I didn't take photos of the entire build, finished product shown. MIO 10pin wears 6p/8p modular ends, 4p break-away for 5VSB; bottom is the 10p/14p ATX extension; MIO plugs in for tapped 5VSB:

hx (5).JPG

hx (6).JPG

above: new 24inch 24p ATX (right) plugs into 10p/14p extension for demonstration

hx (7).JPG

MIO10p + CPU8p extension. Owner also ordered H100i GTX baby-Mind-Meld liqwid-kooler adaptor

- Corsair Ribbons for RM Series -

Ribbons (2).JPG

Ribbons (5).JPG

above / below making the mio 10-wire 10pin from a 5-wire & 4-wire ribbon + discrete solo-5vsb wire. the left ends wear factory psu pins, the right ends are hand-crimped & soldered. Factory pins come from backing off un-needed connectors from sata/peripheral cpu cables etc

Ribbons (15).JPG

Ribbons (8).JPG

above / below making the 10pin extension

Ribbons (10).JPG

PTDC0041 - Copy.JPG

Ribbons (12).JPG

above / below the 14pin extension

Ribbons (14).JPG

Ribbons (19).JPG

ready for shipping & install

Proven Pinout Chart: Corsair ax1500i

8535.ax1500i color.jpg

*each SATA 6pin port gets x2 5volt pins, one is used to power SATA devices, one is unused in the 6pin connector:

  • the presence of this unused 5volt pin will help you by-pass 5VSB if needed (=

ax1200i/1500i have interchangeable cables & thus have identical pinouts across the board in the sata 6pin & cpu/pci-e 8pin, as well as mthrbrd 10+14


ax1200i Proven Pinout

ax-1200i panel pinout.jpg


ax1500i 20color.jpg

tap these front panel pins correctly? AlienFx is yours


Proven Pinout Chart: Original Corsair ax1200

Drastic changes between ax1200 & ax1200i


note sq sq sq / u u u 6pin, & a solid VGA 8pin

We see a serious revision between ax1200 & ax1200i in the front panel fixed pinout: the 6/8pin connectors & their pin assignments both changed:

  • their 8pin is an industry standard pci-e/vga/graphics connector
  • the 6pin, who's top row = "sq-sq-sq" = 'proprietary pin scheme', can't be tapped by a type 1or 2 pci-e 6pin - I had to import mine from China - try eBay please or google 'ax1200 6pin'
  • Alternative 6pin creation: in the world of the 6+2 male, you could use three of the "2pins" - otherwise, by spare cable from Corsair & rob the special 6p, or rob your pouch
  • spare ax1200 SATA / Molex cables on eBay all day long to rob from


Finding 3v 5v 12v Grd on ax-1200i Cable Set





No matter what psu you decide to use, you need to solve its front panel fixed pin assignments; do a full pinout. You'll find all 3-5-12v grd pins during a safe "bench" test - on a table or in your case - but not with the psu plugged in anywhere to your motherboard.

  • When you jump start it on, you can probe bare pins to investigate what they are, then jot them all down on your master sketch. You may use your supplied cables just as easily

All cables will have two ends to them:

  • device side
  • psu (modular) side

ID / investigate volts/grounds of both sides of your cables to make sense of them on both ends. Their cables will have universal "device connector ends" which plug into your motherboard, video card, dvd, hard drive etc. (that end of the cable which plugs into your 'device' / the device end):

  • for safety & that of your equipment, the device end of their cable has to be wired/pinned out correctly, universally, with strict industry standard wire/pin-to-slot layouts, like in the pictures above, for sata/peripheral, 6+2, 8pin cpu etc. 
  • no matter what, your cable's device end will be wired up like the photos above
  • you want to probe the device end, and then trail each wire back to the modular end so you can be 100% sure what the volt/ground assignment is for each pin inside the modular end

Although the device end has to be identical for all PSU cables, the 'psu modular connector end' of the supplied cable that plugs into your psu chassis is pinned out in whichever way the psu front panel is pinned out by the manufacturer:

  • the modular ends will have their own unique pinout
  • that is the problem
  • you must find out where the maker pushed all 3/5/12/grd pins into their modular connectors

Since most of the MIO 10Pin harnesses I make use one 6pin Sata/Molex & one 8pin CPU, out of the pouch I'll grab a Sata cable & Cpu cable:

  • it doesn't matter if the wires are multi-color or all black
  • using the photos above, I know where all 3/5/12/grd pins are in the device end
  • with a continuity tester with audible alarm, I can probe the device end and trace the wire straight back to the correct pin/slot in the modular end
  • from there I can make a chart, very easy to do
  • I can accomplish this with or without the power supply on / bench-tested

For instance, ax-1200i comes with an industry standard 8pin cpu "device-end" mthrbrd connector. It's top row of pins (5-8) has to be 12volts x4. Its bottom row (1-4) has to be ground x4. Yet at the modular end of their 8pin cpu cable? It's reversed: (5-8) 12v x4 are on the bottom row, (1-4) ground is x4 are on the top the row. So long as the modular end & device end pins out ok, it is safe to use their cable. If you run a continuity test on their provided cpu 8pin cable, for instance you will discover these issues. In other words, Corsair says not to plug in anything to their psu which is not their cable:

  • If you plugged in a typical cpu 8pin to their modular panel? Perhaps as an "extension"? Volts/grounds would be reversed. No wonder you should only use their cables

As I was saying, the device end must be pinned correctly for volts/grounds, & the modular end must be pinned out correctly for volts-grounds. When we look at the industry standard pinout charts for sata/peripheral/6+2, cpu 8pin etc, we can compare them - use them as landmarks - against the manufactures cables at the modular ends, & divine 3-5-12v grd w/continuity tests just as easily as if we were bench testing the psu "on" with a voltmeter & probing its pins for the same information: 

  • Peripheral devices do not use 3v. They use 5v+12v+grd+grd only. To find 3v on the modular end of a sata cable - which uses 3v - compare it to a peripheral cable - which will be minus the 3v pin as it must be - if they've given you a mixed cable with sata+peripheral connectors it, probe the sata device end connector at pins 1-3 (per photo) with a continuity tester & find its 3v pin at the modular end's connector

For 5v+12v+grd, look at the industry standard pinout photos, take your peripheral cable, sata cable, 8pin cpu cable, probe their device end connector pins at known 3-5-12v-grd connector pin locations with continuity tests on the other modular end connector(s) pins, & eventually the true picture (the grid) emerges as to what their front panel fixed pin assignments are for 3-5-12v grd; based on "which slots/rows" the pins are in that the modular end is tapping the psu from, & what the device end(s) are eventually seeing on their known pin assigments inside their industry standard connectors.

  • Confirm your pinout sketch by jump starting psu on, plug in your cables, find 3v 5v 12v grd on the device ends, using the connector photo pinouts posted above
  • Higher-resolution photos & full explanations of atx power supply connectors on google/bing search
  • I have the ax-1200i cable set; I've continuity tested the industry standard device ends relative to the modular ends, divined the true nature of the ax-1200i fixed pin assignments with this data & posted a labeled color photo for you

If you buy that psu, or any other, as I said, perform a safe bench test with psu "on", no cables connected yet, probe bare fixed front panel pins, find all 3-5-12v-grd, create a master sketch of front panel & modular male connectors. Inspect their cables with continuity tester, probing the device end fixed pins relative to modular end fixed pins, reconfirming your master sketch of the front panel & modular male fixed pinout assignments.

  • Build your double-ended master i/o harness, & when you're ready, safely bench test psu "on" - not connected to mthrbrd of course - then insert your master i/o harness modular connector(s) to psu, & w/psu "on", probe your 10pin male mio connector for correct 3-5-12v-grd relative to10pin Reference Photo. m5ppl 5vsb tested through 24pin master harness #9ppl of course. When your 10pin "sees" all the right volts/grounds relative to the Reference Photo, you're harness is safe to use with your psu. The object of course is to safely test that you've wired/pinned out your double-ended mio harness correctly. If any pins vary from normal, find out which, find out why, back them out, correct them - then retest til all mio's 10 pins are correct against the Reference Photo


Proven Pin-out Chart: SeaSonic x-1250xm / Xfx Pro 1250

0181.seasonic x-1250 front panel.jpg

original x-1250xm (see below for 2nd generation x-1250xm2)

  • Seasonic X & Xfx Pro have identical front panel layouts & identical volt/ground pinouts 
  • White w/black center = ground pins. "Unused" pin (#3) in their 6pin Sata = 12volts/confirmed; it's possible to build your mio harness w/a pair of 6pins, after you insert your own wire/pin into the "unused" #3 slot 

x1250 mio 24pin.JPG

A suitable x-1250 Master I/O Harness might look similar to the one I've built here. Note 5vsb is tapped w/its own break-away connector

2014 / 2015 Newer Seasonics & Revised Front Panel PinOuts

X-1250 XM2 | Platinum 1200 XP3 | Snow Silent 1050

Seasonic X 1250 |1050 XM2

Seasonic revised the X-series 1050 | 1250w inside & out, which includes subtle changes to the front panel modular connector types, numbers & voltage assignments, making it a different power supply from the older XM1.

  • xm2 gets new black flat-ribbon cables & sleeved 24pin ATX
  • it's using VGA/PCi-E 8pin ports

For your MIO 10pin, tap into a 6pin & 8pin port, 5VSB pin is shown

Seasonic SS-1200XP3 Platinum 1200 & 1050w


I own a new cable set for p1200; the front panel pinout's proven by continuity test & internal Seasonic pdf document related to all their psu wiring. Nothing's changed about the way Seasonic pins out the 6pin (type1/aux) or 10+18pin (mthrbd output). They've dropped the 12pin look & exchanged it for all 8pin pci-e jacks, who's 12volt pins lie on the bottom row as new revision.

7028.6pin sata_molex.jpg _8372.8pin7002.8pcie.jpg

6pin sata/molex (unused slot probably = 12v) >< 8pin cpu >< 8pin pci-express (unused slot = 12v)

Seasonic Snow Silent 1050w



HOW TO: Seasonic XM2 Platinum 1200 Snow Silent Swap Cables

Since the newer Seasonics are using the same front panel pinout, they can all share cables & all come with a sleeved 24pin & flat ribbons, the cables I made for a forum member can help guide you through your Seasonic swap. For starters I tackled the 5VSB jumper as follows:

jumper (2).JPG

Later I'll be making 7" cables, so for the 5VSB wire the idea will be a 7" wire with a 3" jumper; the easiest solution for me is to take a wire, remove the insulation, expose bare wire & crimp it to a pin

jumper (3).JPG_jumperjumper (7).JPG

one wire folded over on itself - I'll solder it to the pin also - later I will put new pins on the wire's ends

10 18 EXT (6).JPG

The Seasonic 24pin ATX will branck into a 10pin & 18pin end, which plug into the front panel. As usually happens I will make a 7" 10p/18p extension. Above, I have 27 black wires, I've attached new male & female psu pins to the ends, & I have male / female 10p/18p connectors. My 5VSB wire is shown left, with 'jumper', using the technique from earlier. Since the male psu pins are pointy, I do not want the sleeve to snag later on, so I'll push the male pins into the male connectors 1st

10 18 EXT (12).JPG

next I'll add sleeve, heatshrink etc.

10 18 EXT (13).JPG

above, sleeve & heatshrink go on 1st, then I push the female pins into the female connectors, use a ziptie, cover with heatshrink. Same routine for the 18p below:

10 18 EXT (17).JPG

10 18 EXT (18).JPG

10p 18p extensions are finished. Next, a basic CPU 8pin extension

CPU Ext (2).JPG

a 24" CPU 8pin ribbon was cut down to 6"; I apply new male pins & will push them into a new male 8p

MIO 10pin next:MIO (2) - Copy.JPG

b4 / after. I've taken a pair of sata 5-wire ribbons. The target length is 7", but for my 5VSB wire I need about 4" extra. To begin, I cut an 11" ribbon, I leave the 5VSB wire alone (leave it 11") & I cut the other 4 wires down to 7". Next, apply new female psu pins at both ends (& added a sleeve to the 5VSB wire)

bottom: I have empty10p, 6p, 8p, 4p connectors & I simply push the pins into the correct slots

Below? Pay Day ...

CPU Ext (5).JPG

Proven Pin-out Chart: Nzxt Hale90 V2 1200 watt

V2 1200W - Copy.JPG

Cpu 8pin = 12v x4 + Grd x4 / Pci-e 8pin = 12v x3 + Grd x5 / Peripheral-Sata = 3v Grd 5v Grd 12v

blk wht.jpg

Proper Hale90 mio harnesses might look similar to the two I've built here; the blk harness is tapped 5vsb while the white harness can optionally "by-pass" 5vsb - purple & red can be "jumped" w/a small jump wire - or - purple can go hot like the blk harness ---> where red is "unused"...


Proven Pin-out Chart: Antec HCP-1300 Platinum

hcp1300 profile.jpg

I dig this high-power psu - made by Delta for Antec  - I'll build a few mio harnesses for sale (eBay) out of my hcp-1300 cable set, create the pinout chart & post photo of harness 3.21.14 



antec pins.jpg

simplicity: verified: 03.19.14


 My Seasonic x-1250 swap

2.14.15 Edit: I removed the Ss1250 & put it in my baby ALX, moved up to a 1500w, later, below 

I took a novel approach to my own Seasonic x-1250 psu swap by keeping my cable set new in its pouch, & employing the stock harness instead for all power/ground circuits; essentially, I broke the stock harness down to its constituent parts, attached the correct modular fittings to all the seperate cables, & invented a mthrbrd harness extension. The result is a new psu & tailor-made tailor-fit cables for Area-51: 

  • the 4' cpu cable reaches without an extender
  • the sata cable is the one we all know & love
  • the x3 hard drive sata's are perfect size for that tight area
  • original mio harness is re-used & co-operates
  • 8-wire pci-e cables were custom-made & upgraded over the stock 6-wire cables, of course

I have plenty of wire, pins & connectors here to do damage when I want to, so not that I did, but someone like you would want to cut your new 24" pci-e cables in half & make two cables out of one:

  • you'd apply new pins & connectors
  • rebuild/resleeve the graphics harnesses
  • in so doing you've "trimmed" the cable size down to a more manageable 12" & gained another 12" graphics harness in the process
  • Woopie!

Whether I'd employed Seasoic's 24" mthrbrd harness or the 24" stock harness, both would have required the hand-made extension; Seasonic's approach to their mthrbrd harness modular connectors is a seperate 10pin + 18pin (see front panel photo) so my extension - which was a must - called for  additional 10pin & 18pin male/female connectors & 6" of correct color/gauge wires, new male/female psu pins & about 2 hours of my time to make the mthrbrd harness extension. I bought a spare rear blk psu honey-comb trim plate, zipped it where needed with a dremel-tool to accommodate the rear psu on/off switch, so now it fits & is a welcome sight. All in all, this is an install I'm quite pleased with & proud of; x-1250 has my approval: it's a winner, a nice trump card over stock, using hand-made cables at all points




center, you can see the hand-made 10+18pin mthrbrd harness extension





Xfx Pro 1250 for my Asus-51

For my Pro 1250 install, I kept the cable set new in pouch & purchased a new Corsair ax1200 cable set so I could run all-black cables to match the Sabertooth z87 mthrbrd. The cables were all hand-done, custom rebuilt & reworked to work on the Xfx front panel pinout, & some changes to other cables to better fit inside DreamLand. The hard drive sata cables were cut down from a four connector to a two connector, like the stock ones are.



2.14.15: I scrapped most of this ax1200 harness last summer & re-did my cables using an upgraded 16gauge ax1200i set. The vid-cables shown here are now being used in my baby ALX, where I removed the ferrite-cores at the ends (used to improve signal qwality I assume)

Pro1250 wears the custom-made Corsair ax1200i cable set I made for it for a stealthy install. A mandatory bench-test was performed after the photos were taken, by plugging the psu in, jump-starting it on, & probing every cable/pin for correct output. You would do the same, verifying any new cables you've made, like your mio & mthrbrd extension (if you made one)

0456.DSC02246.JPG _DSC02245.JPG'7288.DSC02244.JPG _DSC02785.JPG'

Most 24" mthrbrd harnesses "dead-end" @ the case wall; if the psu's mthrbrd port is all the way over on the other side then the main harness can't reach; I've solved this time & time again by making a 6"-8" extension, which can be tapped 5vsb, span the necessary gap, & stay stealthy in the case floor. This to me is a better scheme, rather than trying a 24pin extension coupling up top at the blak snap-lok



Nzxt Hale90 v2 1200 in my Lunar-51




I keep my Hale90 black ribbon-cable set new in the pouch, & I've custom-made a cable set for this build using a new Antec HCP-1300 set I had, & rebuilt it to Hale90/A51 specs & correct new modular connectors when needed. I chose Antec 1300 cables because they use upgraded 16g wire where it counts & I like the black look to 'em as well. They seldom use 18g wires, but when/where they did in a few spots, I modded them to 16g specs by jumping a 20g wire along w/the 18g --> where an 18g + 20g = 16g (=

I hand-made the 7" 24pin extension, 3-wire sense extension, & master i/o harness. Topping it off, this Hale90-Meets-Antec-Meets-Area51 cable set also uses gold-plated Molex psu-pins throughout.

Edit: 02.14.15
On a Theoretical Approach to the Area-51 r2 1440w Psu Swap

I've made a new companion post here, the title says it all:

Below, in a long series of photos I've made a temporary proto-type case harness & discussed the theory behind it, followed by an actual custom harness that was made in June, months later:


- You're looking at one of the 1st - if not the 1st - R1's to house the r2'S Delta 1.44kW psu - 

Psu was purchased on eBay by me on GroundHog Day, was removed from a new r2, got it for $235 shipped w/full case harness & 3way sli ready.

- It sparked to life on February 8 >< I am a founding member of R1.44 Nation -

Door On (3).JPG

This Delta is sold by Alienware as a 1500watt psu. It wears a 1500watt max output sticker. It can hit 1500w, but only when the minor volts 3.3/5 help it inch its way there. It also wears a 1440w max 12v rating on that same sticker. It's rated at 1440w max 12v, it is a 1440w psu as the result. By comparison, ax1500i can hit 1500w on its 1500w 125a 12v-rail, EVGA T2 hits all 1600w on its 133a rail. This Delta is rated to max out at 120amps / 1440w on the 12v side, so it's a 1.44kW psu. Semantics & fudging are used for them to label it a 1500, go figure, padding the bra & stuffing a sock down the front don't count in my book nor on the open market's book ... 1500 alienwatts ...

1273.Industrial Look a.JPG


Custom hand-made connex wires adaptors & harnesses to get it to work. This is a prototype kit; I will go back & do something better later on, probably using an all-black case harness


2045.rear trim.JPG

cut your rear trim to fit the new plug

Proven Pinout Diagram for r2's Delta Front Panel

Delta Frt Pnl Color PinOut.JPG

pin numbers from chart on left are relative to the mthrbrd 24pin Slots 1-24

'Jumps' on the blu/wht connectors, illustrated below: note daisy-chained grounds



Sata Row: org3.3v red5v blu12v blk grounds ... all three bottom slots are ground, middle slot 'unused'


CPU Row: r2 gets a cpu + pci-e 'all-in-one cable' that 'shares' all three 6pin ports. 12v's & Grounds


top left & top right of the 24pin atx blk (R13) & red (R15)


bottom left & bottom right of the 24pin atx blu (R14) & wht (R16)


Pci-e Video Cables Row: all grounds top >< all 12v's bottom

 the Stock r2 Undersized 19 Inch MthrBrd 24Pin Harness Inside Your Case:


when using the black snap-lok, 24p's way too short to reach

Our stock 24p? It's a 24incher, & I use/make 7inch 24p extensions.

Target length for any 24pin is 24+7 = anywhere from 30inches to 32inches + or - overall length

The r2 24p is only 19 inches long: you need a 10inch min, but a 12inch 6p extension best (?)

  • blk blu red wht 6pin ends would need about a 12" 6p extension when using black snap-lok:
  • find four 'store bought' male-female 6pin extensions in that size - try them - looks like a winner:


pci-e 6wire 6pin male-female extension - above - might be your new best friend (eBay $5 ea)

if using foot-long (30cm 300mm) extensions like above, maybe a good time to tap the eqwivalent of the 5vsb pin in a toss-away cable like above ... (= *** (blu 6pin in the r2 24p houses 5vsb purple wire)

  • " $20 " investment in four 6wire 6pin pci-e extensions
  • plan B: buy 4 empty males & 4 empty female 6pins, new pins, wires, hand-make your own
  • lotta work though in plan B

We'd imagine whatever we're about to do with 6pin extensions as either four separate 6pin extensions or one hand-made fat extension (w/4 6pin heads on both ends). In other words, were it me, I'd probably buy four of the typical pci-e extensions shown above, pop the 4 female heads off (the heads that house the female psu pins) & sleeve them all up it into 'one cable' w/4 heads at both ends:

  •  faster to just buy four & pop 'em all on in 5 seconds flat, no fuss no muss     

Is there room right there to mate four new 6pin males to that blk blu red wht female group?

  • maybe; if you bend & twist & you aren't using a 10inch when you maybe needed a 12inch
  • what the vid-card(s) does right there in the blk blu red wht connexion area will dictate what the overall bulk of your connexion does in that area
  • I won't be using that 24p cable up there in my rig, so, you'll have to experiment if you use one
  • 12 inchers plus the 19inch stock gives you, yes, the correct 31 inches to play with

Using (or buying) a stock r2 24pin is a good idea of course since it is pinned out exactly the way it needs to be inside the blk blu red wht 6pins shown. Pan down right now to the photo below, you can see that when the blk blu red wht are all plugged into the Delta's front panel? the 24p head's too short:

  • that short 19inch cable's no good inside our blk snap-lok either way & needs a work-around in order to work inside the snap-lok
  • basically by using the routing method shown in the photo above
  • photo below? no good, head won't fit
  • (10") 12" or longer pci-e 6pin extension(s) are your best bet & easiest 1st attempt material

remember: the basis of the discussion I'm having is the theoretical approach to the stock r2 24pin: 

  • call this the theoretical approach to re-using the black snap-lok
  • u don't have to use it - I do - I have a window'd door & presentation means everything to me 
  • if presentation &/or the snap-lok is not important to u, pan down to the next photo where I'll visit a new discussion about simply forgoing the use of the snap-lok soon


above: I plugged blu blk red wht into the psu, & guess what? the head's all wrong. The other form of extension we can try is the fast good-old-fashioned 24pin extension, right? You can't plug a typical 24pin extension on that end though, it won't fit in the snap-lok. Is now the time to forgo the blk snap-lok? I don't know.

  • my snap lok is 5 years old, I suppose some of that unsleeved wire in the photo above can 'duck out' of one of the lower rungs then yes slap a 24p extension on to make it up the rest of the way to the 24p port, give it a try, I simply don't want to bust one of my snap-loks off if the wire gets fat when ducking out the left side, you can experiment of course, since that's about the last way to use (some of) the snap lok whilke fixing a typical 24p extension on the end, where we imagine we only need a short 4" - 6" 24p extension to span the final inches that the 19 inch cable can't reach, huh?
  • in the least, visualize what the short 19inch cable will present as a 'problem' to you and when in doubt, buy four 12" pci-e extensions & perhaps a 4" - 8" 24p extension 7 try both

look at the photo above & many of you might say: pop a 6" 24p extension on the 24p head, route it to the right & be done with it, forget snap-lok! Crude but effective, gentlemen ...

24p ext.jpg

$5 eBay:  6" (15cm) 24pin atx extension ... & call it a day?


plugged into psu. it might barely reach if you forgo the black snap-lok organizer: it's a very close-call. In this photo, this is a pure attempt at NO EXTENSIONS. Straight from psu to mthrbrd 24p port. On day one? You can try this. If no good? Buy up 6p or 24p extension(s) and post-pone install, lol.  

If you get away w/a scenario like in the above photo, you'd decide next if you're going to tap the blu 6pin end which houses the purple 5VSB wire & route your tapped jumper to your new mio cable - or - forget tapping 5VSB & turn your mio's 5vsb pin into 'standard' 5 volts, after you've jumped or tapped into a standard 5v line off of one of the psu's sata-molex port trio 6pin ports, right?

When using the stock r2 24pin, game-plan for how you wish to treat your mio pin5 (ppl):

  • make it 5VSB or make it stndrd 5V
  • if 5vsb, tap-jump into the ppl wire housed in the blu 6pin end of the 24p  

The discussion on how to handle the r2 24p is getting complicated, right? Extensions, snap-lox, 5vsb, which end is best, tap the blu 6pin for 5vsb, tap a 6p extension instead ... good grief ... moving on ...

In all my cases, I use the sata data cables to help hold the harnesses to the wall (below, see my black cables behing data cables) so look at the photos again; for this r2 24pin, you already know the video-card will dictate what that round cable does right there @ the 'sata port area' & whether forgoing the black snap-lok will help that 19incher reach. This was my high-anxiety install day, I knew I wasn't using that 24p so din't install my vid-card to see if it'd still reach. I see now I'll have to go back & take another look for everyone, missed my opportunity here. We all might use different vid-cards, so, who can say:


what happens at the circled area (& below it too) with your vid-card(s) will dictate if you need a 24p extension when using the original stock r2 24pin mthrbrd harness, shown above

All my cases have a window, so I would never pop a 24p extension on the head; I make/hide all my connections in the floor area. I've tried to outline here that you do at least have many options to explore, don't you. That 19inch r2 24p can wear a 24p extension on the 24p end, or, four 6p extensions on the blk blu red wht 6p ends. Snap-lok, don't snap-lok, partial snap-lok in lower rungs, try no extensions, try it all. Eventually you & your wallet will discover the best way to integrate the short 19inch r2 24p into your ultra-R1.

What to do for a 24pin atx when not using the 19" r2 24p atx

(to be cont, >< under construction)

- My Hand-Made 24pin Extension -

(to be cont. >< under construction)

Earlier I told u that the easiest way to extend the r2 19" 24pin atx mthrbrd harness is to use four 6pin extensions - or - 'make' them into 'one sleeved extension'. Essentially I have made one sleeved extension for my ALX, below. Were I using the 19" stock r2 24pin my extension would of course be using four male & four female 6pin connectors at each end. Below, adaptor for my 'Seasonic' 24p






you're looking @ 7" 24p extension. If you're using a standard 24inch 24pin mthrbrd cable for whatever reason like I am, it can't reach so the extension helps it get the rest of the way. 31" overall when using the black snap-lok. If you're using the 19inch r2 24p, your 'extension' will probably be 12inches long & connect up 'higher', somewhere around the bottom of the mthrbrd at the level of the pci-e fan.

As always, message me or chime in w/your qwestion(s) & concerns

M I/O 10pin

p22 mio.JPG

a stock mio harness plucked right out of the U647R harness may be your best friend; this one still wears the stock psu pins which are not molex pins & I prefer to snip them off & apply molex pins. When these mio's come out of the bulk connector some lose their pins wherever they jump to another pin. If you're gutting U647R, you can snatch these pins for mio of course from somewhere else, but in the end, you may need new molex pins, so get some.

Mio harness will need connectors now right? You have options, empty 6pin or empty 8pin as always. Where & how you tap the Delta is up to you. Mio needs 3.3v & 5v so grab it from the top wht Sata row. Mio needs 12v x3 & ground x4 so tap it from the red 12v/ground row perhaps or there's 12v-grounds present in the wht sata rows as well, many options, too many to go over.

you can tap the r2's cpu cable too, lol, below


if you use the stock r2 cpu cable above, & have or can get an empty 8pin 'male' (below), you can devise a scheme where your mio taps that unsleeved PCIE PWR to snatch up mio's three 12v & four grounds reqwirements from it in one fell swoop.


if you do not use the r2 cpu cable, or do use it but do not tap the PCIE PWR 8pin? You have options for mio, like, snatch three 12v three ground from a red panel port & find that final ground elsewhere.


on the left? that's a 6pin port, but my mio harness is still wearing an 8pin for the Seasonic, so I've used an empty 6pin to pop into the red port & built a short extension w/an 8pin male end on it. Only 6wires are tapped of course: mio will tap 6 out of its 10 wiring needs from that red port, regardless, see below


You're looking at a prototype adaptor kit I'm using right now. The dual-24pins are a Sata Port Multiplier which grants me access of the three wht sata ports to six. Ok? Mio taps into one to snatch 3.3v (org) 5v (red), and hard to see it but it snatches a blk ground also.

  • this is because we already know I can only grab three 12v & three gorunds from the red port below by using my 'red port' 6pin to 8pin extension, from prior top photo
  • it is likely that your mio harness will simply wear a pair of 6pins 

- Mio with 5VSB -

the remaining purple wire (sleeved, going into a 4pin above) is for 5VSB & will connect into my 7inch 24p extension, which I've tapped-jumped into that psu pin earlier and threw a 4p connect on it.



5VSB has been tapped or jumped into the 24pin extension; mio clips into it, above & below


my mio harness wears a 4pin break-away connect. I've tapped-jumped 5VSB from my new prototype 24pin extension. When Delta is in my case, I simply click the connexion together, & I'm done.

- Mio w/out 5VSB: Tap Standard 5volts Twice -

simply stated, pretend the purple wire (mio pin5 / purple) is a red 5v wire & find your way to get it hot 5volts. If you can, jump it to the real red 5volt wire's pin and insert them into your connector so they both get 5volts off the same pin ... message me or post your qwestions

Cpu 8pin


Stock 28.5" Split Cpu + Pci-e 'all-in-one' Harness

The unsleeved section above wears a tag that says PCIE PWR; I assume it augments the pci-e lanes in the r2 x99 mthrbrd, doesn't matter to us & could come in handy to power the mio board: it's an 8pin that supplies 12v on the top row & grounds on the bottom, identical to the true cpu 8pin (sleeved).

If you obtain this cpu cable, I think it'll just barely reach the psu panel since it's 28.5 inches long. I won't be taking my cpu cable out to test it yet. One day, I may install a new harness, if so, my old one comes out & then I'll test the r2 stock cpu cable out 7 let ya know if it reaches:


My cpu cable right now - routed against the lower mthrbrd sill - reached this far, about an inch over the top of the longer Delta; @ 24", I feel the 28.5" stands a chance at reaching the red row. In the next section called 'A Sata Multiplier', one wonders if the top wht sata row will defeat plugging in this cpu cable into the red row of ports. If so? Slap a short 8pin cpu extension on the end of it up @ the mthrbrd 8pin cpu area as the easiest work around:


Since Delta is replete w/an all 6pin front panel, we know from earlier that pci-e 6pin extensions can eqwally attach to the red ends of this cable. In this case you'd use three of the shortest you can find: if you want that unsleeved PCIE PWR 8pin to go live, yes you need all three reds to plug into the front.

There are other ways to get power to your mnthrbrd cpu 8pin. If your scenario involves using the R1 U647R harness, you detach the old 51" cpu cable - build pins on the end of all 8wires - obtain a PAIR of empty 6pins, push your 8wires into them in the right slots using my Delta Reference Photo & qwickly plug it into the Delta

A Sata-Molex Multiplier:

How to handle your Main Sata-Molex-Peripheral & HDD Sata reqwirements

Delta only has three 6pin ports, which are used to power r2's sata pair & a molex-peripheral. We need more than three 6pin ports. A minimum of four, five is better, six is best. 4, 5, 6: it all depends on how you wire up your rig; for instance, you do not need 'three' sata harnesses to power your hard drives like the stock system did, you can use two sata harnesses wearing three heads each to power your six hard drive bays, ok? Below, I made Airene a sata hdd harness pair wearing three heads ea; the page loads the photo wrong, not me, lol. This in an attempt to cut down on her case clutter. I used a pair of black sata pass-thru caps inbetween a 'normal' pair of sata cables (a sata cable w/2 heads):


If you do yours this way w/whatever cables you use or make, you'll occupy two sata 6pin ports in your psu which means your mio & main sata need their spot on the delta, so you will be a port short. Right?


Above, I will eventually use a 6pin male-female system identical to the blk-purple y-splitters I make

To make these 6pin y-splits (which I could not find on eBay or I'd buy them, that does not mean they aren't made, just I could not find them yet).

  • I start w/a 3.5" -4" wire
  • use a razor in the very middle of it to remove insulation
  • crimp half the bare wire into the pin, fold wire back over itself, solder it, boom
  • I do four more wires like that. boom
  • now I crimp-solder male pins at both ends. boom.
  • pop connex on it at both ends.

Hand-made y-split. For Delta, one day I'll make 3 of them. When all 3 are plugged in? I'll have acess to six 6pin ports. Look at the photo below; I've substituted for now for the use of dual 24pins which can still accept six 6pins, three in each 24pin row. My hard drive satas plug in the top 'row':



in the right photo above, 6pin on my mio harness plugs in: 5 more sata-molex can plug in, for instance, my three hdd sata 6pins plug into 'the top row', main sata into the bottom row & 'one port open'. I need 5 sata 6pin ports but I have access to 6, again, one open for future needs:



if you obtain or buy the stock r2 sata cables (above), if they don't reach your hard drive sata ports behind the pci-e fan, use pass-thru connex (below, red) or go back to our old friend the 6pin extension, shown to you earlier in the stock r2 24pin section (as extenders for the blk blu red wht 24p 6p ends). Not all power supply front panels are pinned out in a universal standard, so, simply popping in someone else's sata cables may fry out your new delta or other hardware - but! - you can buy sata cables all day long, figure out the Delta pinout, and wire up the 6pin end to the Delta ... got it? If not, post your qwestion in my thread, I will explain to you how to use some other psu's sata cables on the Delta. You'd most likely back some pins out of your intended 6pin, rearrange it to be wired up right for 3/5/12 & grounds pair (5wires in a 6pin connect) boom that is it.

pass thru.jpg

stock r2 Delta sata cables shown above can easily be augmented of course w/cheap sata 'pass-thru' heads, just like the stock R1 hard drives satas use, black connex of course, red are shown

For your Main sata to power your dvd and other stuff? We're getting low on wiring here people: the r2 only gets a sata pair. We're lucky if they are enuff to power just the six hard drive bays. Find some online, eBay I guess, most psu companies make their sata cables to wear a 6pin at the end of it, so back the pins out if you need to, pin your cable out for the Delta, and be in business pretty qwik. Another option? Buy U647R - R1's stock harness, snip it out, slap 5 psu pins on it, get an empty 6pin, wire it in yourself since it is the perfect length anyways. You can snip out the three hard drive harnesses too, slap pins & 6pins on their ends, back in business w/perfect Area -51 R1 cables.

I will leave this discussion open and unfinished: if you have qwestions regarding how to hook up your hdd sata & main sata, where to get cables, how to pin new ones out, hopw to make then from U647R, just ask, I'll try to spell it out better for you (& others) ie cross that bridge when u get to it. 

Video Cables

Some of you will be blessed like I was to buy up a used chassis w/the full cable set included, if so, simply use the included vid-cable(s). They are 13", just like the old stock cable was/is. Perfect.

I think it absurd the $23+ price of the r2 video-cable pair when purchased new from Dell Sales. If you need one or two or three pairs, expect to pay $23 - $69 for yours w/my sympathies.

You can use my photos & guides here to help hand-make any vid-cables, upgrade to 16gauge wires etc. It's easy enuff to do since the pinout is a basic grounds top row 12v's bottom row

- Wrapping it all up -

PSU part# is 800GY ... currently $465 from Dell Sales b4 shipping & tax

80Plus Gold, four 12v rails, 1440watts combined max. Not too shabby, shoulda coulda woulda been better, is better then the stock 1200watts are-were. Slightly less powerful & efficient then Corsair ax1500i, after a chat w/Dell Sales it retails a tad pricier @ $465 just for the chassis? 80plus rating:

If you feel the need to have this in your R1 over say ax1500i, or an eVga g2/t2 1600w etc, I wouldn't blame ya for being a purist. Standard psu size: 3.4" x 5.9" x 8.6" (8 5/8" it's a long one).

The modular case harness cables each have their own part# so consult Dell on how to buy what cables u think u need. While they are still 'new' or 'barely' used here as I type this in February 2015, & since we now know they can be bought on eBay, my advice is to grab a 'used chassis' w/low miles on it & when possible grab the case harness with it too. 

If you want a brand new one & can afford it, get it & the cable set from Dell:

  • make your own 10pin mio cable using the methods I showed you above. This strategy might call for extensions for the cpu cable, mthrbrd 24pin etc., tap your 24pin extension on 5VSB & send it to mio - or - make mio hot standard 5v over pin 10 through your mio harness tapped into a sata port 5v, as we'd do w/any other make of psu. When buying anything from Dell Sales, remember to try & negotiate a better price, they may slash the price or offer free shipping or both (=

Get the psu new from Dell & your own cable set:

  • you saw I made my own Hale90 1200 cables out of a new Antec 1300 cable set I bought & my Xfx build made from ax1200i cables. Yours could be a similar approach. Simply rebuild the modular ends of your new cable set, obtain empty modular connectors if needed, and wire it all up using my Delta Proven Pinout Photo

Buy an R1 U647R Full case harness & build it to Delta's specs:

  • or simply use the one in your case now for 'free' (buy u647r later down the road). In that approach you'll still need supplies, pins, connectors etc but you'll have a cheap building material to work with since u647r's only 15 shipped from eBay & the cables are the right size.
  • plan to make your own 7" 24pin extension of course

June 2015: Delta gets a custom individually-sleeved cable set

7167.R9 270 (35).JPG_0312.test2844.R9 270 (13).JPG_3731.5870sata (2).JPG

R9 270 (17).JPG_6663.day4380.R9 270 (20).JPG_2262.R9mio (6).JPG_0601.testing

U647R Full Case Harness Rebuild for ax1500i & ax1200i

The case harness I'm working with Memorial Day weekend is the 9th original case harness I've converted for use with the DoomsDay Machine. As an afterthought, I decided to take a few pictures which I'll try to add commentary for. You'd begin by backing the pins out of the black bulk connector; I prefer to snip all of the factory pins off & apply new 16gauge Molex Mini-fit Jr terminals (classic 4-sided psu pins) since they're a definite robust upgrade over the odd inferior 2-sided factory pins:


The case harness uses 18gauge wire & a larger 16g pin makes for easier/faster crimping w/18g wire. I'll use the entire harness plus I'll make a 7" 24pin extension, which I'll tap 5vsb from for mio's 10pin. I'm also making upgraded video cables; the stock cables are single cables w/one 6pin & a 6+2 jumper, but in the end it is a 6-wire cable. I'll be making four upgraded true 8-wire 6+2 cables (where I might occasionally use 16g wires, but this time I'll stick to simple 18g vid-cables, just like stock), I'll remove the 6+2 jumper & re-use the basic 6-wires the case harness provides, then add two black ground wires so the vids are now 8-wire cables. I have extra materials to work with here, a case harness only provides a pair of vids, I'll hand-make the other two using spare wire.

Below, a grainy photo of a basic disassembled harness wearing brand new psu terminals at all ends:


24pin 7" Extension


From spare wire, I've gathered up 24 correctly colored wires, trimmed them all to length & applied new male pins at one end / new females at the other end. The purple wire has a 5volt stand-by jumper on it, destined to plug into my mio harness later to supply mio with 5vsb. I'll be yanking the 18gauge yellow 12volt wires from the mthrbrd 24pin ATX harness later, replacing with 16gauge 12volts, so I've used a pair of 7" 16gauge yellows in my extension ... next, I'll push the pins in to the male connex 1st, (it's easier to sleeve the harness from the female pins-side, since they aren't pointy / won't snag) ...


the 24pin ATX cable used in ax1500i / ax1200i has a 24pin mthrbrd end that branches into a 10pin & 14pin modular end; I'll duplicate my 24pin ATX cable to branch also, which means my 24p extension has to have 10p/14p male/female connex. these are now ready for sleeve, ziptie, heatshrink ...


above, I apply black liqwi-tape / liqwid plastic to the sleeve ends 1st so they don't fray or move


above, the heatshrink is now on; I've slipped the other heathshrink on as well for the moment, it has to go on now, before the pins are pushed in to the waiting connex; next, I'll begin to pop the pins into the female 10p/14p in the correct slots, use a ziptie to secure the sleeve, add liqwi-tape, finish off with heatshrink. To ensure all my pins go in the right slots, a voltmeter w/audible continuity tester & a chart I made will be used to ensure accuracy. The chart was made from original ax1200i cables:

7802.color pin out Alana.jpg

I assemble all of my 10p / 14p male / female ends using this color chart  

Because ax1200i/1500i 10p/14p modular ends connect upside-down, I'll make sure of two things: the male end (left in photo) points 'up', the female modular end 'points down'. Any way of saying this is the left end top row will become the right end 'bottom row':


Finished. Later, when you see the 24pin motherboard ATX cable I built snaps into the extension, you'll see the connectors at the coupling 'point up', & I've built my extension in such a way that the psu modular ends 'point down', making for a smoothe transition between the 24p ATX, extension, & psu. What was a bare purple 5VSB wire's now sleeed w/a 4pin break away connector, waiting for mio 4pin:


24pin ATX Cable


from the color chart earlier, you'll see that ax1200i / 1500i have a jumper on pin 13 (an 18g org & 22g org); the 22g is a 3.3v 'sense' wire. Our factory harnesses use a 3.3v & a 5v 22g sense wire. I toss the unused red 5v sense wire, keep the 3.3v sense wire (I back the 18g/22g wire-pair out of pin2 & move  to pin 13 1st, to recreate the ax1200i 24pin ATX harness wiring). All 24pin ATX connectors only house 23pins (slot / row 20 is always empty); due to that jumped 3.3v sense wire, at the bottom end of the atx cable, you will in fact get 24pins in the overall 10p / 14p branch (due to the sense wire).

Next, for ax1500i, I remove the 18gauge yellow/white 12volt wire-pair & insert upgraded 16gauge wire, so that the stock motherboard can be well-fed over the 24pin. My how-to post here starts off w/a photo of someone's burnt-out 12v pins 10 & 11 --> my harnesses get 16g 12v wire on pins 10/11 to help alleviate that problem (an EVGA PowerBoost is still rcommended to saturate the pci-e lanes with 12volts). In the photo above you see I've pulled the sleeve back, I've separated the 10pin branch from the 14pin branch, applied new pins, zip tie, heatshrink, extra heathshrink then I will push the pins into the 10p / 14p, zip-tie the sleeve, liqwi-tape then heatshrink & I'll be done:


the male ends of the '24pin' (10p / 14p) extension left; female 24p (10 / 14) ATX on the right

MIO 10pin Harness

PTDC0060 - Copy.JPG

Mio harness was liberated from the bulk connector, pins snipped off, new pins applied, now I slap on the 6pin, 8pin, & 4pin for 5VSB purple ... the 6p / 8p are pinned out using my ax1500i Reference Chart

CPU 8pin


The stock CPU cable is 51 inches long; I cut mine down to 30" (I found it pointless to have that extra 21 inches of resistance / added resistive wire) ... apply new pins, ziptie, liqwi-tape, heatshrink, then pop the pins into a new 8pin EPS/CPU connector etc. Instead of routing like a stock 51 incher, the 30 incher stays tucked to the mthrbrd sill wall & easily spans to an available 8pin port on the psu. Most power supply pouches provide a 24inch cpu-cable, which do barely reach most 8pin ports, but some aftermarket motherboards can have a cpu 8pin in different areas of the board, so my 30 incher works on the stock x58 Alienboard & all aftermarket boards (if you're running off a 24incher & need a longer cable, buy a simple 8pin extension of about 6-8 inches).

Sata Cables: Main & Hard drives


Main Sata / Peripipheral cable Is easy, just like the mio harness; apply 5 new pins & pop a 6pin on it


The hard drive cables, I normally sleeve them. I stopped using all three hdd cables; now I use just a pair, but I apply two extra sata pass-thru connex on them so that two cables can power all 6 hdd bays. 


1st I apply new pins & pass-thru satas, sleeve, ziptie, heatshrink, pop on 6pin connex, ziptie & heatshrink to finish them off

True 8-wire 6+2 Vid Cables

When freed from the bulk connector, I'll have 6-wire video cables wearing a 6pin & 6+2 jumper:


my goal is to remove the 6pins, remove the jumpers, keep the 6+2 connectors, keep the 6-wires/pins:


  • 1st I remove the 6pin & 6+2
  • on the 6pin wires, each psu terminal has arms that 'grab the insulation'; I'll use a mini-screwdriver to push the arms back, then I'll wiggle / snap each jumper wire off the pin
  • with needle-nose pliers I'll re-secure the insulation arms to each single wire
  • what I'm left with are 6 wires with factory pins & an empty 6+2 connector

Because it is going to be an 8-wire cable, I need to apply new psu terminal pins to the 6 bare ends & make a jumper ground wire pair also; 6 factory wires will fill up the 6pin connector part & I need to hand-make the black ground-wire pair that will pop into the 2pin part of the 6+2:


Stock vid-cable pairs are 11 inches (blu) & 13 inches (ywl) ; bear with me:

  • an 8pin /  6+2 pci-e connector has 8 rows; 5 are black grounds (3 are 12volt)
  • ax1500i uses a solid 8pin, but only the bottom 4 rows are grounds
  • in order to make a 5-ground-wire pci-e cable at one end using a 4-ground-row psu port connector at the other end?
  • I need to jump two wires onto one psu pin
  • when I do, 5 wires can now supply grounds using only 4 psu modular pins
  • making the 2pin part of a 6+2 by jumping a pair of wires onto one pin is an industry standard

For the 13 inch cables? I use a 26 inch piece of wire, trim the very middle insulation off, crimp a psu terminal onto that bare metal, & now both ends are free. I'll apply psu pins to them, they will go into the 2pin part of the 6+2. For the 11 inch cables, I use a 22 inch wire, & do the same. In the photo above, the 'jumped' wire pair is one 22inch wire with a psu pin crimped to the middle of it ...


Now I have my so-called 8-wires. I pop the 6+2 connector on, sleeve it, ziptie, heatshrink (pop the other heatshrink on too, momentarily). Now on the other end, I will pop the solid 8pin on, ziptie/heatshrink, bam, cable is done. I do this until all four are finished ...


Aurora Full Case Harness for ax1200i / Xfx-Seasonic 1250

I've bought a pair of ALX case harness, part# NRHJ9, disassembled them, new psu pins on the ends, correct modular connectors & pinned out using my Pinout Charts. Rebuilding a case harness is a good idea if you're using dual-video-cards, in order to take full advantage of the custom-fit custom-length cables, whether it is the longer cpu cable, unsleeved mthrbrd 24pin etc. The premise is, having your case wired exactly like it is right now, simply pulling your stock psu out / slipping the new one in, no fuss no muss. With my spare-wire assortment I'll also provide the buyer with four true 8-wire 6+2 video cables, a marked improvement over the whimpy out-dated 6-wire jumper pair.


{Edit: 9.08.14} A word on building my 1st Aurora -

I'm consolidating Aurora psu-swap stuff here, then move it to its own thread later, after I work with the case & do my build which will take some time. This section is 'a work-in-progress':


Sept 8th: the stork just dropped off my new bouncing baby boy, Area-51's baby bro' (never seen Aurora b4 in person. handsome lil' devil). He comes w/a stock 875w W299G Delta pacifier / binky (12v = 825w max); I'll chest-feed him well w/@ least a thousand, perhaps more. When I finally put power to the lil' guy? His scales'll arch up jus' like Toothless, when Hiccupp's Mama tickled him ... I think I just found a name for 'im fella's ... my new lil' baby Dragonaut ... whoopie!

On the same day the KnightFury arrived, a fellow grey posted a successful R4 swap story:

On my recommendation he went w/an Xfx Pro1250, & was stoked from the gobs of potential untapped power on hand; no doubt many psu chassis' fit in Aurora & running a solo beast-card will be easy. The trick is finding out the best ways to incorporate - manage - the new cable set when running dual-cards due to cramped conditions under & around the bottom card, & requisite 'breathing room' for its fan.

So. Aurora in solo-card beast mode is a basic ez psu swap-out experience; dual cards requires some head-scratching. I started with dual-Radeon R9's & moved upto a solo-290x, so I was in the same boat as the rest when it comes to a psu swap w/dualies; I'll do what I can to help out & offer some input on how to 'manage' the new cable set when running dual-cards. My stock psu had a 30day warranty, I kicked it for the 1st couple weeks, made a few changes to the original case harness & improved the cable management on the various other wiring:


I sold the new Hale90 1000 & installed a Seasonic x-1250 with more info on the Aurora Psu Swap:

My R4 has custom cables throughout; if you do not work with psu pins or know how to cut a 24" video cable in half & make a pair of them from one, consult your local pro; pay someone & get it over with. The 24 inch cables in your new pouch will swamp your build.

Tip. For dual-cards? Reroute your harnesses:


Having test-fit a reference Radeon R9 270x in tandem w/the stock case harness, it's atrocious what Alienware's done. The case needed designed to be 1/2" to an inch higher, plain & simple.

  • @Tesla: the Aware engineers who told you that "only the 875 works in the case", to me the statement suffers from the sin of omission: what they really meant is only the original case harness wants to readily work in the case

My immediate impression for a fix? Do you see where your three black flat cable clamps are? No reason at all they have to stay there, not when they can easily be moved. Why get all snagged up under the bottom vid-card, when a practical approach is to bring your main mthrbrd 24pin, cpu 8pin & main sata/molex 'straight-out' from the cable organizer, then duck left & down the rabbit hole. Perhaps the hdd sata tip-toes next to the mthrbrd etc. True, the adhesive on the clamps may not be as bullet-proof the 2nd go around, but, you could try new ones, example:


New clamps will have new adhesive: a hard-core approach is to 'drill' out these clamps, old or new - with corresponding holes in the removable sill plate - identical to the smaller rope-type clamps, like the cpu8pin pair in the roof - which are secured by both screws & adhesive backs. Repositioning clamps & routing your harnesses out from under the bottom vid-card fan, might buy you precious inches - well worth looking into. Of course, you can apply new 3M double-sided tape w/a heavy-duty rating to your old clamps, if you intend to move them. Positioning your final clamp @ the rabbit hole @ a 45 degree angle may help your cables stay away from the fan. Your mod's done right when your shroud closes ...


Tip #2: if you don't want to 'lose' your hard drive cage to make room for new power supply cables because you have a 3rd or 4th hard drive, the 5 1/4" bay 'blanks' can basically hold hard drives; if not w/all 4 screws, then @ least two screws. An eBay search for 'Aurora blank' showed results. FYI: you'll have to unscrew both hdd caddies to help remove your old harness: you'll need an extra-long screwdriver (7" shaft) to get at the caddy screws on the far right. I used an 8" *** extension fit w/a 1/4" drive socket & screw bit. If your caddy does come out for cable room, it can always go back in when it's time to sell case & drop old psu back in etc.

5.20.15 Today's Tip? Corsair Hx1000i / Hx1200i w/all ribbons set


I keep an eye out for who's doing what. Flat ribbons are catching on; the Hx1000i & new Hx1200i are using a 24pin flat ribbon. Chassis size is 5.9 x 3.4 x 7.1. I make no guarantees an all-ribbon cable set like above will bale your bottom vid-card out but @ 1st sight they look promising. Note: the case as designed will try its best to undermine your swap intentions ... Nzxt Hale90 1000/1200 use ribbons & a sleeved main 24pin. Seasonic x-1250XM2 & Platinum 1200 use ribbons & a sleeved 24p also.

Aurora ALX Hard Drives: When to Mod SATA Cables


the stock Aurora hard drive sata cables wear 'pass-through' 'punch down' sata head connectors & have approximately a 2inch / 5cm spacing between heads. Left head is using a 'pass-through' cap while right head has 'end' cap. A link to basic utube vid on modding a sata cable is later below


standard heads are too long & can't work in ALX

The photo above shows a cable with a pass-thru & a standard head; your new pouch might have sata cables with a standard head (or several in a daisy chain):

  • if you have an Aurora with front sata, youi should be ok
  • if you have ALX with rear sata, there isn't enuff space between the case wall & the hard drive cage for standard heads to fit, thus the cage can not be reinstalled
  • you'll need sata heads like below: a video link will help you mod the cable to work in ALX


SATA Power Cable Mod


I don't like the clawed caps because they are tedious to remove & claws can break, I prefer the pass-thru / end caps. When buying pass-through / punch down sata connectors you will need four of them for the hard drive cages & they'll need caps: buy two pass-thru caps & two end caps: one type each for the hard drive cages.

Typical places to buy sata connex in the US: KoolerTek Mainframe FrozenCpu Perf-Pcs

International Sales ... this is my HongKong contact, very reliable ... very: iLavModding

See this post also, where I go over hard drive cage removal, & modding sata cables to help the cages go back in: Aurora ALX PSU Replacement - Issue With HD Cages

It isn't worth it to try & 'borrow' pass through heads from your old case harness (the claws may break).

- buy parts & watch the utube video -

Some Final Thoughts For Now

You have every reason to seriously consider a psu swap now. Does the wiring/connecting job seem too much? Go get a consultation from your local pro, show him the 10pin Reference Photo, remind him of 5vsb. I don't see how it could cost much to wire a 10pin in. But you can at least get a quote, & if it's too much? D-I-Y. I gave you enough of a head-start here to be successful:

The title of this post used to be a 'Theoretical Approach' to swapping; no one I know of has published a complete how-to on any brand psu. Perhaps they have, many times, elsewhere. You are urged to keep searching online. I would certainly apologize if the information I gave here left out vitals & hampered your install. My defense for that? You yourself should theorize an install before doing it:

  • on paper, my multi-faceted strategies work, but without a particular chassis here I can not vouch-safe for anything there on your end of this

Put your strategy on paper then decide if you're prepared to put down money on supplies & a psu to see if they work ... this is an attempt to plant a fertile seed in your mind only ... I vouch for the theory itself, & the approach, certainly, & my hands-on experience with nearly fifty successful swaps as of 3.16.16 is a strong testimony. At its core this is an opinion piece about making a hand-made master i/o psu harness & 24pin extension. I would urge you to brainstorm even further improvements to the types I listed using the materials I listed & expand at your own pace, but I can't list every way to make a harness or account for unforeseen abstract 'whatevers', even though I have more ideas & will continue to have other ideas as surely you will also.

Lastly, it's ok if you ask me: what did you mean when you said 'such n' such' ... but I have a life separate from the A-51 psu swap, & I don't have time to help find your parts & stuff, I got all my stuff online. I told you what I learned along the way about using a modular psu as the basis to power the master i/o. I did it with very little help of my own I might add. You will certainly know more going into your build then I ever did. If you ask me how I built or build my harnesses, it's simple; do what I did: look at the Reference Photo & problem solve it ...

there was no information ... just that photo & the words: 'sata+molex+ax1200+mio' --> 'work'

This is not the last word on a psu swap; nor is it the 1st, but it is the most. I look forward to a peer reviewed thread where we improve our data through theory, testing, hands-on practice, highlight strengths/point-out weaknesses, where all ideas are welcome for building a better mouse-trap. All input is welcomed ... & very much needed here since the forum is absent of any good psu change-over material when you search for it ....

- thanx for taking the time to read & post on this power supply swapping thread -


Black Angus


yes, my Pro Kit is at work in there, the ax1200i how-to was posted earlier above


Live the Dream

2 Bronze

RE: The ALX-Files: On a Theoretical Approach to the Area 51 Power Supply Swap Corsair ax-1200i ax-1500i Hale90 Seasonic x-1250 New A-51 R2 1500w Psu

Hahaha, Always Modding Something got me the nick name SLK_VIK 😃

Awesome, i'm going to look through it thoroughly, and see if we cant get this old dragon shooting flames again! 😃 

Currently I acquired 2 Nforce Motherboards, 4 9800 gx2s, 2 MIO boards, no combo of the swaps made any difference. I will be sure to post up my findings for other XPS owners to read through. 

I'm on a mission!

Thanks Again!


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