I have been removing a lot of processors since are motherboards capacitors are blowing up at an alarming rate. If you pull the heat sink out straight you should not have any bent pins. Even I rock it a little I have not bent pins. I have bent pins trying to insert the processor with heatsink attached. I ended up breaking one of the outside pins off but the processor still works!
I use the green retension clips to remove the processor from the heatsink. I stick it in the gap an give it a light twist to pop the processor off - so I am not sure why you are having problems.
Yes, but you can't use the knife to get the processor off of the heatsink, if you can't get to to the processor, how are you going to seperate the two? Are you familiar with the Gx260?
There is no way to raise the heat sink assembly straight up and out. The release lever for the heat sink unlatches the assembly so that you can only life one side up of the heat sink.
I have only worked on GX270's. The heatsink has 2 black clips and 2 green removable clips on both sides. I took a look at the GX260 manual and it make it seem like the chip stays in the socket when you lift the heatsink out. I can see the one lever retention lever and the statement about a gentle rock and twist. If the heat transfer goop is holding on to the processor sounds like you're in trouble.
I took another look at the diagram for th 260. On the 270, after the 2 green retention clips are removed the heatsink is still held by 2 protrusions on the black retension base. There is an extension that you pull back on with your thumbs to free the base. Can you pry back on the the bump opposite the lever side so it clears the heat sink base and then pull it straight out?
I have replaced about 10 GX270 motherboards and about 15 SX270 motherboards.
Anyway, here is how I do it on the GX270.
I remove 1 Retension clip (the green thing) and disconnect the fan power.
I then pull the black protrusion in the heatsink away from the CPU cooler and lift the cooler up out of the way much like turning the page of a book.
About 75% of the time the CPU comes out attached to the heatsink, and 25% of the time it stays in the socket. I never have bent pins unless they are all bent exactly the same amout and I can't even see them as bent unless the pins are about 87 degreese instead of 90 degreese to the processor :)
I always use the Green retension clip to pry the CPU off the heatsink. Always. I put it under Pin 1 and rotate. Without fail, every single one has always popped free without breaking or cracking.
I then lift the leaver and drop it on the new board.
Finally, I take the Alcohol wipe dell includes and I squeeze it out onto the heatsink goo left behind leaving an almost dry wipe that isn't dripping wet and the goo on the heatsink is very wet. I wipe the CPU clean first with the barely damp wipe. Then I go back to the heatsink and wipe it clean and dry.
I then take the Shin-Estu Microsi and place a small dot in the middle. I realize the Dell Heatsinks are not properly lapped and not very efficient, so they need more goo than stock, aftermarket, or lapped heatsinks. I use about a quarter to half a tube. I DO NOT use the full tube like Dell Documentation suggests, because I don't want it spewing out onto the motherboard. I put just enough exactly in the middle, so when I smash it down, it spread thin and evenly and gets very close to the edge. I do not worry too much about he corners, nor do I try to spread the Shin-Estu Micro Si stuff. It is too thick to spread and will create air bubbles on the heat spreader (not completely terrible).
If Dell does not send heatsink goo with the motherboard, I see if I have a left over tube from a previous project if I didn't send it back, which I normally do, since I am supposed too. If I DO NOT have any Dell Goo, I will use cheap Radio Shack $2 for 6 Grams of the thin silicon/zink stuff, or maybe see if I have Arctic Aluminia, ARctic Silver, or that other ARctic Silver product. Point is that any goo will do.
If the goo is thin like the Zink/Silicone stuff from Radio Shack, I will spread it corner to corner to cover 100% of the processor. I will spread it thin though, so it won't spew over the edge. Then I put about 1/4 a grain of rice sized amount in the middle. This makes sure I have no air gaps... I have actually practiced with the white goo to figure out just how much is right :) I have it down to a science where it makes full contact, and is very thin. It needs to be this way because the White Goo isn't as good as the grey stuff. If I am all out of Goo and have none, I just re-mount it with the dryed out crud that it had origionally.
BTW, the best cleaner is ArtiClean! You can also buy a box of 50 lint free alcohol wipes with 99.6% pure Isoproply Alcohol from a chemical supplier for about $6. The alcohol wipes the supplier sells are 2x bigger than the wipes Dell includes, and they have 99.6% alcohol, which is far supirior to the 70% stuff Dell sends.
speedstep
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47K Posts
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February 10th, 2006 08:00
RWat
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February 10th, 2006 14:00
dannyccl
2 Posts
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February 11th, 2006 01:00
Yes, but you can't use the knife to get the processor off of the heatsink, if you can't get to to the processor, how are you going to seperate the two? Are you familiar with the Gx260?
There is no way to raise the heat sink assembly straight up and out. The release lever for the heat sink unlatches the assembly so that you can only life one side up of the heat sink.
speedstep
9 Legend
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47K Posts
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February 11th, 2006 01:00
Some of the thermal interface material on SOME dells seems to act like epoxy and it will not let go of the cpu.
Thats why I use a sharp knife like a Buck knife.
speedstep
9 Legend
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47K Posts
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February 11th, 2006 18:00
You pull straight out and the cpu comes with it still attached to the heatsink
you then put on the table and seperate the 2.
Hot heatsinks seem to come off easier than cold ones so if you warm it up first its
easier.
240's and 260s and 270s are where i have seen this problem.
RWat
5 Posts
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February 13th, 2006 11:00
RWat
5 Posts
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February 13th, 2006 12:00
Jbirk
339 Posts
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February 14th, 2006 05:00
Anyway, here is how I do it on the GX270.
I remove 1 Retension clip (the green thing) and disconnect the fan power.
I then pull the black protrusion in the heatsink away from the CPU cooler and lift the cooler up out of the way much like turning the page of a book.
About 75% of the time the CPU comes out attached to the heatsink, and 25% of the time it stays in the socket. I never have bent pins unless they are all bent exactly the same amout and I can't even see them as bent unless the pins are about 87 degreese instead of 90 degreese to the processor :)
I always use the Green retension clip to pry the CPU off the heatsink. Always. I put it under Pin 1 and rotate. Without fail, every single one has always popped free without breaking or cracking.
I then lift the leaver and drop it on the new board.
Finally, I take the Alcohol wipe dell includes and I squeeze it out onto the heatsink goo left behind leaving an almost dry wipe that isn't dripping wet and the goo on the heatsink is very wet. I wipe the CPU clean first with the barely damp wipe. Then I go back to the heatsink and wipe it clean and dry.
I then take the Shin-Estu Microsi and place a small dot in the middle. I realize the Dell Heatsinks are not properly lapped and not very efficient, so they need more goo than stock, aftermarket, or lapped heatsinks. I use about a quarter to half a tube. I DO NOT use the full tube like Dell Documentation suggests, because I don't want it spewing out onto the motherboard. I put just enough exactly in the middle, so when I smash it down, it spread thin and evenly and gets very close to the edge. I do not worry too much about he corners, nor do I try to spread the Shin-Estu Micro Si stuff. It is too thick to spread and will create air bubbles on the heat spreader (not completely terrible).
If Dell does not send heatsink goo with the motherboard, I see if I have a left over tube from a previous project if I didn't send it back, which I normally do, since I am supposed too. If I DO NOT have any Dell Goo, I will use cheap Radio Shack $2 for 6 Grams of the thin silicon/zink stuff, or maybe see if I have Arctic Aluminia, ARctic Silver, or that other ARctic Silver product. Point is that any goo will do.
If the goo is thin like the Zink/Silicone stuff from Radio Shack, I will spread it corner to corner to cover 100% of the processor. I will spread it thin though, so it won't spew over the edge. Then I put about 1/4 a grain of rice sized amount in the middle. This makes sure I have no air gaps... I have actually practiced with the white goo to figure out just how much is right :) I have it down to a science where it makes full contact, and is very thin. It needs to be this way because the White Goo isn't as good as the grey stuff. If I am all out of Goo and have none, I just re-mount it with the dryed out crud that it had origionally.
BTW, the best cleaner is ArtiClean! You can also buy a box of 50 lint free alcohol wipes with 99.6% pure Isoproply Alcohol from a chemical supplier for about $6. The alcohol wipes the supplier sells are 2x bigger than the wipes Dell includes, and they have 99.6% alcohol, which is far supirior to the 70% stuff Dell sends.