Really having issues with this one. I already posted about this once before a couple weeks ago and couldn't get a straight answer out of a rep that classified my question as answered. Just told me to replace a 500 dollar motherboard. I want to replace the blown component, but I can't figure out what it is. I've been desperately attempting to figure this out, and I'm about ready to cry because I feel like I got played hard. I will do almost anything to figure this out, and I'm out of places to look.
And just for exposition's sake, I bought it refurbished from Dell's Amazon store. My laptop arrived with this component blown. I already tried going through the proper channels before opening the machine and it turned out to be an aggravating waste of time.
Can anyone please tell me what this is specifically so I can attempt to replace it? This is the underside of the board. You have to remove it to see this. The component is a thin film resistor, but I need to know specs, or just if anything is compatible that can be used in it's place. Please, any inkling of information would be so appreciated. Thank you so much for your time.
BTW The label next to the blown component says PQ222.
Thanks for re-posting.
Unfortunately, Dell does not post motherboard schematics, so finding this exact part will be difficult.
Ejn63 gave you great advice on your other post. And replacing the motherboard will more than likely be your best resolution. Since you have warranty on the machine, why not try and get it replaced by Dell under warranty rather than spending the money yourself? You've paid for the warranty in the purchase price, why not use it?
If you still feel your issue is unresolved, you can fill out an Unresolved Issues Form and escalate to a higher level.
Thanks for your reply.
While Ejn63 gave sensible advice for someone who can afford to replace the board, he still didn't provide the information that I was seeking. Don't get me wrong, I appreciate his input, especially that he pointed out that it's a resistor. It's just really obvious that replacing the board is a fix though. I personally think it's crazy to replace the board when I can just replace a single component that costs a dollar.
As far as using the warranty goes, I tried. If you read my other post, you know my experience with Dell's customer service. A technician even came out to my house and basically did nothing after I spent hours and hours trying to prove my situation to a woman with such a strong accent, I struggled to communicate. It was maddening.
I assumed that opening the laptop voided my warranty, and the pursuit of resolving this via my warranty has been fruitless.
An idea has occurred to me. It would be great if you could tell me if I'm right.
What if I remove a visually identical resistor elsewhere on the board and test its resistance with a multi-meter? Is resistance the only thing I need to know in order to purchase an acceptable resistor replacement? Is it okay to use a component with more resistance?
> I assumed that opening the laptop voided my warranty, and the pursuit of resolving this via my warranty has been fruitless.
Opening the laptop doesn't void warranty, as long as you don't break something. Dell provides an online service manual (which cover replacements of modules only, not individual components).
I guess if the motherboard really came like this, it should get fixed under warranty.
If you have given up on warranty, try a local computer repair shop.
Thank you replying. I appreciate any assistance I can get.
In my previous post, I mentioned that I already looked through the service manual. I tried to get it replaced via Dell's customer service and after literal hours and hours of trying to prove my case to someone that could barely understand me and giving them access via a remote session, a tech came to my house and did nothing but remove the bottom cover and stare in terms of hardware. A local computer repair shop would probably have less experienced employees than me. That's what I did for a living out of high school. I agree that it should get fixed under warranty, but no one has helped me despite several vigorous attempts.
The point of my post was just trying to figure out what the blown component is. While I appreciate the input, it hasn't really helped me get closer to my answer.
For the consideration of anyone who might need this information in the future, I measured visually similar resistors at about 130Ω within 0.5%.
I'll be purchasing these:
Unless you've got something like the equipment below, you're not going to be able to replace that part -- this is decidedly NOT a job for a handheld soldering iron.
What you've described is a wireless card that doesn't connect correctly -- completely inconsistent with a blown resistor on the mainboard. If the only issue with the system is the wireless connection, a nano-USB external wireless adapter is a better solution. If you start soldering on a mainboard you may wind up not only with a dead wireless connection -- but a dead system.
This looks like it's simply spillage that needs cleaning up - a blown resistor would not be responsible for the crusty material on the board. If you haven't tried a simple cleanup, do that first - you may well find you're trying to solve a problem you don't actually have.
Thanks so much for replying again. I really appreciate it.
The wireless connection dropping packets and failing after sleep is the only consistent and repeatable behavior that I've been able to determine. I sometimes also get a BSOD when I wake it from sleep and other strange artifacts on occasion. I told you in my first thread that I replaced the Killer 1535 WLAN card with an Intel 8265 with no improvement. The resistor could still be the cause of the issue if it deals with how data is passed from the WLAN to the memory. I also mentioned earlier that I carefully cleaned the spill already.
Upon testing the resistor, it failed continuity in both directions, so it definitely needs replacing. While I appreciate the warning about hand soldering, I've already removed a different one for testing resistance and successfully re-soldered it. I did it SMD hot air style. For the benefit of anyone reading, if you aren't familiar, you flux the contact area, drop the solder paste on the board's contacts, put your component on the contacts and hit it with a heat gun. The excess evaporates and contacts form. It's really easy.
Thanks again for all your help.