XPS 410/Dimension 9200, PSU troubleshooting?

When was last time you replaced the motherboard battery? CR2032 3-volt coin cell battery, ~$2.

What color is the power button and is it steady or blinking when PC won't boot?

What color are the 4 diagnostic LEDs on front panel when it won't boot?

Look up power button code and LED error codes in the manual.

I ordered a new PSU through Amazon. It is a Dell PSU, the same model # as the one I'm replacing.

I have never replaced the motherboard battery. Didn't know there was one. Would you suggest it be replaced before putting things back together?

I don't know about the lights. I"m no computer tech and am stumbling around here, but we live 100 miles from the nearest computer shop so am doing the best I can. The only thing I can recall is some green lights.

It does have 4GB RAM because I updated that years ago. 

I"m surprised at your opinion of this machine. As I mentioned, I've had this PC since 2007 and it's been a great machine. 

I know nothing about the insides of a computer other than what I can Google, and then understand. My husband and I were both fearful of taking that back off and doing what we ended up having to do to get that PSU out of there. I would sure like to have some kind of diagram showing where these plugs go. I remember all but one of them, and I need help with that. Is there anywhere I can go to look at a diagram?

I would not assume it's the power-supply ... you must troubleshoot like this (read carefully). You test Power-Supplies with "Digital Power-Supply Tester".

https://www.dell.com/community/Alienware-General/Alienware-Desktop-General-Hardware-Troubleshooting/m-p/5555517#M57436

Back-in-the-day I installed a Corsair-650w and in another XPS-410, I installed a Corsair-750w. IMO, that machine is not worth messing with unless it has true Intel QUAD-CORE and 4gb-RAM installed ... and then, just barely "worth it". Just sayin. :Smile:

You should have read the Troubleshooting Tools section in the Service Manual and checked the power button and diagnostic LED codes before you ordered a new PSU. 

Replace the battery first (see Service Manual), and then put the old PSU back in. That way, if a $2 battery solves the problem, you might be able to return the new, unused PSU. You can buy a CR2032 3-volt battery at  Walmart, drugstores, etc.  Just don't buy a cheap "off-brand" which won't last.

All the PSU plugs are keyed so they can only connect in certain places, eg to the motherboard, to hard and optical drives, floppy drive, etc. So you shouldn't have too much trouble, but it would have been helpful to label them before you yanked the PSU out.

The layout of the motherboard is on page 81 of the manual I linked above.

I think the point was whether it's worth the cost of a new PSU to repair such an old PC vs putting that money toward a new one.

You need a specifc EPS 12v  PFC 80 percent or better power supply. The one that works without issue is EVGA Super Nova B1 110-B1-0750-VR  or  700B1

750B1 SUPER NOVA

The B2  B3 BR BT BQ GQ G2 etc models of the same thing DO NOT WORK.

The reason is quite simple  You need 25A or more on the 3.3v and 5v rails as well as 150W combined power on those rails. You also need at least 3AMPS on the 5vSB rail. That means a 550 or 650W unit will not work.

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Bronze-Warranty-Tester-100-B1-0700-K1/dp/B018JYHBE6/

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-110-B1-0750-VR/dp/B00K85X23O/

Even Dell 305W power supplies have 150W on the 3.3v/5v combined rails.

DELL 305W

DELL 375W

DELL 460W

DELL 525W

Wish I'd of had this information before I placed my order. This is the one I ordered:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T5JCPK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Could you tell me if this one will work?

Yes, I agree with everything you said about the troubleshooting and lights and all. 

The reason I'd like to fix it if it's just simple is because I let my young grandsons play computer games on it when they come. I have a laptop that I use myself a lot of the time.

I guess this has been a learning experience.

About the battery, the instructions said: 1 Enter the system setup program and record the values for all the screens (see "Entering System Setup" on page 127) so that you can restore the correct settings after installing the new battery.

Since I can't do this, maybe I should leave the battery go and see if the PSU allows it to boot. ??

I'd do the battery anyway especially because the PSU is out so the battery is being used (assuming it hasn't already died) to hold BIOS settings. And that means it's getting drained and will die.

It's helpful to know what your current BIOS settings are because replacing the battery will reset them to the default values, but it's not essential. If the default settings aren't right for your specific system, it will just take a bit more work to change them, based on any error messages you might get, rather than just being able to set them based on what you would have copied down.

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@Nikilet wrote:

1. It does have 4GB RAM because I updated that years ago. 

2. I"m surprised at your opinion of this machine.

3. As I mentioned, I've had this PC since 2007 and it's been a great machine. 

4. I know nothing about the insides of a computer other than what I can Google, and then understand. My husband and I were both fearful of taking that back off and doing what we ended up having to do to get that PSU out of there. I would sure like to have some kind of diagram showing where these plugs go. I remember all but one of them, and I need help with that. Is there anywhere I can go to look at a diagram?

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1. Good. The Intel quad-core (like an Intel Conroe Q6600) is also important. It's actually 2-TIMES as fast a dual-core. 

2. What opinion is that? That I liked it enough to buy one new? I had one running (with Intel quad-core and 4gb RAM) for 8 years, and helped my brother buy a used one from eBay around 2009 (and we upgraded that one also) . Did I say something bad? Obviously, they are removed from service and in storage now-days. You want me to ship one to you? :Smile:

3. We don't usually recommend fixing 11 year old machines. Something else might go out on it the day after you fix it. 

4. I gave you a link. Google and YouTube are good also. Yes, you have to learn how to be a computer technician to troubleshoot and fix computers. 

I'm with Tesla, I would throw that thing in the garbage and get a new one, it is just going to be a money pit now.

Well, we installed the new power supply but not certain we have everything plugged in right. I looked in the manual and it didn't help. I need diagrams that show "put this plug here." Over by where the hard drive is I could have sworn I removed two plugs. But now can only find a spot for one. We have both looked and looked, again and again.

We put the cover back on, hooked the monitor up and plugged it in. I get a blinking amber power light and nothing else. The light on the back of the power supply does not light up, computer does not start.

We also installed a new battery in the motherboard.

I'd appreciate any suggestions for things I could try.

What color are the 4 diagnostic LEDs on the front panel?

From the service manual:
IF THE POWER LIGHT IS BLINKING AMBER — The computer is receiving electrical power, but an internal power problem may exist.
• Ensure that the voltage selection switch is set to match the AC power at your location, if applicable.
• Ensure that the processor power cable is securely connected to the system board (see "System Board
  Components" on page 81).

There's only one "main power connector" from the PSU to the motherboard, #5 in diagram on page 81 of  service manual. Each drive, hard, optical, floppy, also has just one connection directly from the PSU.Those should be the only direct connections to the PSU, assuming your add-in video card doesn't have a PSU connector (depends on the video card). 

Each drive should also have a data cable that connects directly to the motherboard. Boot hard drive connects to SATA0 on the motherboard (#3). Optical drive to SATA1 on motherboard (also at #3), floppy drive (optional) to Floppy Connector (#14).  No way to know what else you may have yanked out...

Reboot and immediately press F2. Does that open BIOS setup?

I know you are probably attached to that computer but do yourself a favor and return that power supply before you damage it and put that money towards an entry level Inspiron which will be 5 times better. Those things just don't last forever and become a unending source of grief eventually. 

I plan to do just as you suggested. Can you recommend a decent all-in-one at a reasonable price?