If you're replacing the motherboard and processor, you're presumably also replacing the RAM. A 10 year old machine also presumably could not handle today's NVMe drives, for example.
I'd question that it's worth trying to hang onto the case and cooling system, especially assuming you didn't put in some fancy liquid cooling yourself. And if the original PSU still is working, its days probably are numbered.
Anyway, you'd likely find it easiest to just do a whole new machine, though if you want to keep the new graphics card, it might be building yourself from scratch, or doing a prebuild elsewhere with the lowest-end card that you can simply replace.
Thanks. So probably just better off to leave it on Windows 7 and let it roll. It still runs good once it finally gets done with all it's start up tasks. I spec'd and built a gaming pc for my son and it screams. Guess I'll just go that route for myself. I was hoping to at least salvage the cool looking case but oh well. Thanks again for your response
I'm not one to recommend what mthrbrd or CPU to buy, but you could look into a micro-ATX (m-ATX / u-ATX) Asus MSI Giga AsRock etc with maybe a Gen10 Intel 6/8 core or AMD Ryzen (new Ryzen CPUs launch next week Oct ... post into that thread if u need help pulling out old parts & swapping in new ...
The CPU cooler can be re-used if u buy it a new retention ring kit from the Asetek Amazon store for whichever CPU socket u choose ... PSU can be changed out for an aftrmrkt type but if it still works u could try to squeeze another year out of it or so
Look into newer DDR4 memory also, & maybe a GTX 3070 GRFX GPU would be good
The fact is, Aurora R1-R4 has seen many owners swap in new mthrbrds / CPUs over the past 8 or so years, it can be done, it's just a desktop case in the end ... also see their Aurora sub-forum
The only thing I would do with it at this point is ... install a SATA-SSD (as bootable C-Drive) and clean-install Windows-10 (if still a free upgrade). Maybe a 512gb ... to hold all Windows, all Apps, and a few games. Even a spare 256gb would work . The SSD will make it boot and run faster.
@Tesla1856 Yes, the free upgrade available through Microsoft's website still works - the upgrade will result in a activated windows 10 license and new product key. Although, as a fair warning, if you ask your friendly Microsoft rep about this you could expect her to refer you to the EULA where it says successfully activation does not confirm a valid license, followed by a disclaimer that MS reserves the right to bill anyone taking advantage of the upgrade after Microsoft's advertised expiration date (although it's not happened yet to my knowledge).
Although, as a fair warning, if you ask your friendly Microsoft rep about this you could expect her to refer you to the EULA where it says successfully activation does not confirm a valid license, followed by a disclaimer that MS reserves the right to bill anyone taking advantage of the upgrade after Microsoft's advertised expiration date
=========================
I've never heard of this
nor
Microsoft or Dell having a problem with you installing the normal (non-OEM) version of Windows (on a Dell machine) and therefore ... using the Windows-key that Dell burned into the BIOS.
AFAIK, the only thing YOU ARE NOT ALLOWED TO DO ... is to use that Dell-key on another machine.
As for "upgrading" your current system you should definitely install W10. The list below is similar to my upgrades excluding a 2080ti graphics card. I would hold off on buying one for a few months until prices settle down and then look at the 2080 series. Graphic cards are designed to release their heat into the case so during heavy use the side panel will need to be off and a fan blowing air into the case.
I can run any current game at Ultra settings although at lower fps (never less than 60).
The choice is yours to spend the money on an older system that will still work or investing in a more modern system that will require additional cost and effort to reinstall software, programs, and personal files and photos.
If you decide to remain with the older system and transfer your current drive to a new drive you will also need a software package such as Acronis or one of several other vendors.
speedstep
9 Legend
•
47K Posts
0
October 4th, 2020 03:00
Actual disk saves lots of time and trouble. Also useful for repair and recovery. You can also create your own DVD or USB2 fat32 flash.
Cpu costs too much not worth first gen core I7 upgrade.
https://www.dell.com/community/Desktops-General-Read-Only/Studio-XPS-435t-9000-compatible-processor-list/m-p/4101408/highlight/true#M924250
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10ISO
https://www.newegg.com/microsoft-windows-10-pro-64-bit-reinstall-recovery-disc-only-no-license-key-included/p/N82E16832350238
Upgrade to Windows 10
Online update is the UPDATE NOW button
https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkID=799445
You can then download and run the WIN10 VERSION 2004 media creation tool.
https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=691209
Bios key needs nothing
WIN7 COA key can be used with the I dont have a key install option then activate online later.
IF your media is older you will have to use a GENERIC key to install because it wont give you the I dont have a key option.
QD9X
50 Posts
0
September 28th, 2020 22:00
If you're replacing the motherboard and processor, you're presumably also replacing the RAM. A 10 year old machine also presumably could not handle today's NVMe drives, for example.
I'd question that it's worth trying to hang onto the case and cooling system, especially assuming you didn't put in some fancy liquid cooling yourself. And if the original PSU still is working, its days probably are numbered.
Anyway, you'd likely find it easiest to just do a whole new machine, though if you want to keep the new graphics card, it might be building yourself from scratch, or doing a prebuild elsewhere with the lowest-end card that you can simply replace.
wrfreeman
4 Posts
0
September 29th, 2020 06:00
Thanks. So probably just better off to leave it on Windows 7 and let it roll. It still runs good once it finally gets done with all it's start up tasks. I spec'd and built a gaming pc for my son and it screams. Guess I'll just go that route for myself. I was hoping to at least salvage the cool looking case but oh well. Thanks again for your response
Cass-Ole
6 Professor
•
1.9K Posts
1
September 29th, 2020 18:00
Aurora R4 ALX case with 8700k and RTX 2080ti
I'm not one to recommend what mthrbrd or CPU to buy, but you could look into a micro-ATX (m-ATX / u-ATX) Asus MSI Giga AsRock etc with maybe a Gen10 Intel 6/8 core or AMD Ryzen (new Ryzen CPUs launch next week Oct ... post into that thread if u need help pulling out old parts & swapping in new ...
The CPU cooler can be re-used if u buy it a new retention ring kit from the Asetek Amazon store for whichever CPU socket u choose ... PSU can be changed out for an aftrmrkt type but if it still works u could try to squeeze another year out of it or so
Look into newer DDR4 memory also, & maybe a GTX 3070 GRFX GPU would be good
The fact is, Aurora R1-R4 has seen many owners swap in new mthrbrds / CPUs over the past 8 or so years, it can be done, it's just a desktop case in the end ... also see their Aurora sub-forum
Cass-Ole
6 Professor
•
1.9K Posts
1
September 29th, 2020 18:00
the stock Aurora upgrade cooler is a 38mm wide Asetek, part# 01YGW (try eBay / google etc), others have tried the 49mm wide Corsair H80i GT / V2 etc
wrfreeman
4 Posts
0
September 30th, 2020 07:00
Thanks Casa-Ole. I'll look into the mb. Thanks for letting me what type of mb to look at as well. Wasn't sure if it would be a micro-ATX or not.
Tesla1856
8 Wizard
•
17.4K Posts
0
September 30th, 2020 09:00
The only thing I would do with it at this point is ... install a SATA-SSD (as bootable C-Drive) and clean-install Windows-10 (if still a free upgrade). Maybe a 512gb ... to hold all Windows, all Apps, and a few games. Even a spare 256gb would work . The SSD will make it boot and run faster.
r72019
6 Professor
•
5.3K Posts
0
September 30th, 2020 23:00
@Tesla1856 Yes, the free upgrade available through Microsoft's website still works - the upgrade will result in a activated windows 10 license and new product key. Although, as a fair warning, if you ask your friendly Microsoft rep about this you could expect her to refer you to the EULA where it says successfully activation does not confirm a valid license, followed by a disclaimer that MS reserves the right to bill anyone taking advantage of the upgrade after Microsoft's advertised expiration date (although it's not happened yet to my knowledge).
Cass-Ole
6 Professor
•
1.9K Posts
0
October 3rd, 2020 17:00
I forgot, here's (last week) an R1 + Asrock X570m pro4 / Ryzen 7 3800x > Aurora R1 DIY
Tesla1856
8 Wizard
•
17.4K Posts
0
October 3rd, 2020 19:00
Although, as a fair warning, if you ask your friendly Microsoft rep about this you could expect her to refer you to the EULA where it says successfully activation does not confirm a valid license, followed by a disclaimer that MS reserves the right to bill anyone taking advantage of the upgrade after Microsoft's advertised expiration date
=========================
I've never heard of this
nor
Microsoft or Dell having a problem with you installing the normal (non-OEM) version of Windows (on a Dell machine) and therefore ... using the Windows-key that Dell burned into the BIOS.
AFAIK, the only thing YOU ARE NOT ALLOWED TO DO ... is to use that Dell-key on another machine.
AAA737flyer
2 Intern
•
757 Posts
0
October 6th, 2020 04:00
As for "upgrading" your current system you should definitely install W10. The list below is similar to my upgrades excluding a 2080ti graphics card. I would hold off on buying one for a few months until prices settle down and then look at the 2080 series. Graphic cards are designed to release their heat into the case so during heavy use the side panel will need to be off and a fan blowing air into the case.
I can run any current game at Ultra settings although at lower fps (never less than 60).
The choice is yours to spend the money on an older system that will still work or investing in a more modern system that will require additional cost and effort to reinstall software, programs, and personal files and photos.
If you decide to remain with the older system and transfer your current drive to a new drive you will also need a software package such as Acronis or one of several other vendors.
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Core-i7-990X-Extreme-Processor/dp/B004NRQDQQ
https://www.newegg.com/samsung-860-evo-series-2tb/p/N82E16820147671?reviews=all
https://www.newegg.com/corsair-12gb-240-pin-ddr3-sdram/p/N82E16820233146
https://www.newegg.com/corsair-liquid-cooling-system/p/N82E16835181102?Item=N82E16835181102