1 Rookie

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105 Posts

4984

October 26th, 2020 14:00

Aurora R4 ALX, CPU upgrade

Hi guys,

I'm wondering what's the best CPU I can stick in this machine? One more question, does anyone have the original restore DVD's? Yes, I know I can just download the drivers from Dell but I'm after the original wallpapers.

Thanks for any help

 

1 Rookie

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105 Posts

November 4th, 2020 15:00

hi guys a further update for you ive installed the replacement cooler 

 

and all is well temps are now down to 35'c idle on the cpu.

 

 

I also fitted the 3960x and that's also running perfectly fine

 

so id say this is now solved,

 

thanks again for all the help

 

now to try an NVMe card next lol.

1 Rookie

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105 Posts

October 26th, 2020 15:00

hi @Alienware Area-51 ALX 2006 

I've got the stock board in there that's a socket 2011. would the 3960x work in there?

thanks

5 Practitioner

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3.1K Posts

October 26th, 2020 15:00

If you have the proper motherboard then it’s the 3960X with 6 cores and 12 threads.

just search, Aurora R4 ALX original wallpaper

367 Posts

October 26th, 2020 15:00

These machines use LGA 2011 CPU's (NOT TO BE CONFUSED WITH LGA 2011-3 WHICH ARE NOT THE SAME)

The max theoretical CPU is : 

Intel® Core™ i7-3970X Processor Extreme Edition

 

But I do assure the 

Intel® Core™ i7-3930K Processor Extreme Edition

Will work

1 Rookie

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105 Posts

October 26th, 2020 15:00

hi thanks @elpro999dell  

I have the following i7 In there at the moment 3820 non k version. so I was thinking something faster would help. also what's the overclocking like ?

thanks

6 Professor

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1.8K Posts

October 26th, 2020 21:00

see Tesla post update A02 to A11?

6 Professor

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1.8K Posts

October 26th, 2020 21:00

3960x is a SandyBridge CPU (socket 2011), if you're on Bios firmware version A07 or higher (A11 is the highest), then the 4930K & 4960x are the top Ivy Bridge-E 2011 CPUs

The potential to 'brick' the motherboard during a Bios flash is real however, do Bios update at your own risk. If your Bios is A06 or below, then use your 3820 CPU to flash Bios to A07, then the IVY-E CPU will work (not before)

Bios update is best performed on bootable USB stick (and least likely to brick that way) as opposed to launching & executing the file while booted into Windows. Rufus to make the bootable USB stick then boot into the stick ...

October 27th, 2020 06:00

hi @Cass-Ole 

I have already got it running on version A11 bios so that's done. can I ask do these stock liquid coolers go bad? as while I was gaming last night it just turned off then straight back on.

thanks

 

 

5 Practitioner

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3.1K Posts

October 27th, 2020 06:00

Its pretty old so you're going to have to drain it and refill it with new liquid and also dust out the radiator plus the entire case so it can still go on.

6 Professor

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1.8K Posts

October 27th, 2020 13:00

AIO cpu coolers have about a 5year estimated lifespan (but we'd note there are probably plenty of original coolers out there seeing 6-10years of use), so it's best to keep an eye on original coolers if you own Aurora R1-R4 due to age

CaptureA.JPG

If you launch CmndCntr Thermals, it's possible to place the CPU Pump (status) 'widget' onto your Windows desktop for fast monitoring, by clicking the arrow (above I've set my System Rad-Fan & CPU Pump widgets to display on the desktop). If pump says 'failed' u have an issue certainly ... however a failed pump will typically cause the rad-fan to spool up to max (to combat heat) of maybe 4000RPM, so simply listening to whether the rad-fan is loud or getting loud is a way to help gauge the cooler pump is working, not working, or barely working. An original rad-fan might run at 800-1200rpm idle, a defective pump means cpu can overheat at idle so keep an ear out for the rad-fan & monitor the widget for pump status

From there u can run a cpu temp software like Intel XTU or HWInfo. CPU should shutoff at 100C, average idle temps w/a working cooler might be 25C-40C, & we might not want a working cooler/system to approach say 80C max when we run games or programs. So, monitor your rad-fan speed, cpu pump status & cpu temps to get an idea if the cooler is ok or not. Feel free to air-dust the radiator/fan & the insides in general. I had a failed pump in my R4 once (the impeller was stuck in place), it simply went into a loop where it would start/shutdown, start/shutdown due to overheated cpu

If yours simply shutdown/restarted & ran again (at least stayed alive & could idle for a long period) I might not suspect the cooler, I might suspect the PSU, suspect the way u have the GRFX/Video card connected, or, any of 5-10 other reasons that get difficult to diagnose

Aurora Proper Dual Cable View.jpg

*R1-R4 525w PSU, only one GRFX cable works (= one 12volt 18Amp GRFX rail)

But above w/an 875w PSU both cables work (Blu-Wht + Blu-Ylw = two 12volt 18Amp GRFX rails). If you run a solo-GRFX card then it's best to get both cables / both 18Amp rails in action to prevent shutdown / restarts etc, u do that by plugging one of each color into the card

*SLI / X-Fire setups of course use both cables / rails, but u have to limit the card-type to something like 225watts or less

If your cpu pump widget says running, if your rad-fan isnt too loud / too high of rpm, if your cpu temp is within acceptable limits & if your GRFX card is plugged in correctly then u may need to look elsewhere for the issue &/or keep an eye on the system because it may have developed a problem/fault etc

 

 

October 28th, 2020 09:00

hi again @Cass-Ole 

 

ive checked what you have said under idle the temps are about 35'c to 40'c 

under load it goes up to almost 90'c ive actually seen it peek at 100'c but then it did shut down,

 

what's the best way to clean the radiator ?

 

can I run water through it ?

 

or something like that ive tried dusting it out but its not coming off really

 

thanks

October 28th, 2020 09:00

hi again @Alienware Area-51 ALX 2006 

 

what do I need to refill the radiator ?

 

and how would I take it apart ?

 

thanks

5 Practitioner

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3.1K Posts

October 28th, 2020 15:00

Well I mean your probably going to ask alienware how they did it as I remember back in the early 2000s when alienware released a water cooled Pentium 4 overclocked to 4Ghz with their special solution using a water/alcohol mix. I pretty much like to prevent the dust build up as it's a pain to clean as I had to take off the fan and then drain the pump and run hot water through the pipes and then basically reassemble but filling it with water only and letting it run through and then I drain it and add the alcohol and water mix.

6 Professor

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1.8K Posts

October 28th, 2020 19:00

how to clean aio radiator uTube | google

Generally you use an electric mattress air-pump or can of compressed air or similar; I suspect if the 'crud' won't blow off then I'd remove cooler > soak it > rub it w/ papertowels & wscrub w/toothbrush & rinse it

Afterwards I'd apply new good thermal paste to the bottom of the cooler, like Arctic Silver 5 (here I use premium pastes like Phobya Nanogrease & Gelid GC Extreme) & bolt the retention ring back onto the cooler+cpu socket etc & test your temps

I dont know why your system reaches 90c-100c & shuts off / restarts (does the radiator fan even spool up & sound like a hair dryer?), so for a cooler upgrade (above the stock slim 27mm wide-rad), keep an eye out for the R4 premium cooler part# 01YGW (38mm wide-rad) or google Aurora Corsair H80i (V2/GT models are 49mm wide-rad) & see what u find out. You can increase the interior fan speeds with CmndCntr (set a fan curve or go manual speeds), & blow all the dust out of the case & out of the roof area too if u can

Adventures in replacing stock aurora cooler

My aftermarket cooling adaptor (3pin -to- 7pin) for R1-R4 is here

 

 

1 Rookie

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105 Posts

November 1st, 2020 05:00

hi guys

 

well ive sourced a replacement CPU pump

 

ive also sourced a i7 3960x for it also (hope it works)

 

one more question if the cooler was bad that's already in there would it allow me to game for an hour or so then shut down ?

 

I ask as its an odd one as the fan does ramp up to handle the heat (maybe its bad thermal paste)

 

thanks

 

p.s ive ruled out the PSU as the problem as ive run it with a 6th gen i7 under heavy stress and it don't turn off

 

 

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