Aurora R7, GPU, PSU upgrade issue

 I think it would be essential to mention that I am on a semi truck my inverter is just fine it’s powering the TV and did power the computer for a short time. I was sitting at a dock getting unloaded and when I started to drive off that’s when I noticed a computer shut off. And it has not Turned on since.

It sounds like the Corsair PSU may be more sensitive to input supply spikes/ variations, causing it to trip up. At this point you're probably left with troubleshooting via elimination. I'd try both PSUs with and without the 2080 Ti plugged in.

There are 5 "high-powered" connections from the PSU to the various sinks in your config, I believe:

24-pin ATX

4-pin CPU_PWR header on motherboard

8-pin GPU_PWR header on motherboard

2x PCIe (6+8/ 8+8 depending on card make and model) to graphics card

Assuming they are all plugged in, it would also help if you have access to a wall socket instead of the inverter.

It’s a wall socket. But they are powered by an inverter. I tried the fan test minus the fan because I don’t have a fan that can connect to the psu. The psu just clicks and does nothing. It’s own fan doesn’t even spin. Dead psu you think?

update: removed the 2080ti from comp. nothing. Put the 1070 in. Nothing.

Bad psu

It’s a wall socket. But they are powered by an inverter. I tried the fan test minus the fan because I don’t have a fan that can connect to the psu. The psu just clicks and does nothing. It’s own fan doesn’t even spin. Dead psu you think?

The PSU fan is designed to turn on only under load and can stay static while the PSU is on and lightly loaded. Can you please elaborate more on the fan test? Is it with all the cables disconnected from the PSU and then using a PSU jumper to force the PSU on? Or do you have everything connected and you hit the power button on the R7?

All the cables you are using are from your new PSU, correct? The cables are non-swap-able even between PSUs from the same brand sometimes. I had a new PSU refusing to turn on because I used a SATA cable from my old PSU.

If it is really a bad PSU, looks like you'll have to RMA it with Corsair. They cover their products pretty well, don't they?

 I literally just wrote all this out and apparently it signed me out so here it goes again I’m using voice to text this time so if there’s any grammatical or spelling errors you will know why. 

The cables I am using are all from the brand new PSU. At first I was using this little bridge for the 24 pin that came stock with the computer because it had a built-in plug for the GPU power.

 However I did remove it and just used a PC i.e. cable for the GPU power that way I was using all brand new stuff. It makes me wonder and this is what really stumped me because if the power supply was bad why do the fans attempt to spin when pushing in holding the power button in and then releasing it. So to clarify on that when you push in the power button and hold it for about 5+ seconds and then let it go the liquid cooler fan in the rear exhaust fan will spin  I don’t think the one on the power supply unit did spin though and nothing on the 2080 TI. I just can’t wrap my head around what would be wrong with it. 

 When I did the fan test everything was disconnected and I just put a jumper across the green to black wires and all it did was click I do not have a fan to test to see if it would power it as the fans that are in my computer do not have the connections for the power supply I assumed because it was clicking and doing nothing else it was bad.

 Again as I said it was literally running for about 15 to 20 minutes just fine and I was getting ready to do some test on blender 3-D when I had to move my truck in the computer shut off but it wasn’t extremely violent movement of the truck there was no hard vibrations I’m aware of I just cannot figure out why it just stopped working and white is not working now. I also removed the 2080 TI  Completely and tried to start the computer and nothing happened I also tried removing the 2080 TI and putting back in the 1070 in nothing happened this is why I keep feeling like it is a PSU issue but because the fans do spin after holding the power button in for five+ seconds it’s really messing with my head

The cables I am using are all from the brand new PSU. At first I was using this little bridge for the 24 pin that came stock with the computer because it had a built-in plug for the GPU power.

Can you please let me know if that little bridge 24 pin cable looks like the top one in the pic below? Granted, mine is an R8 that shipped with a 850W PSU. I presume your R7 PSU is 850W, correct?

 It does not. The bridge is about 2 inches worth of wire on each end is the 24 pin connector one male one female and then there is a eight pin connector that runs over to the GPU power on the motherboard. Of course there is only four wires in the eight pin connector The stock PSU is 460 my new one is 850

Yeah I currently have it hooked back up stock with the 1070 in the 460 power supply you are right the 2080 TI will not run on 460 it needs at least 650.

I can get you a picture of everything hooked up possibly tomorrow I don’t know what my schedules going to be Like i took the night off from driving because I’ve been awake for over 24 hours now it’s about 40 hours. I appreciate all your help so far

PFC power supplies require TRUE SINE WAVE Inverter to avoid damage.

https://www.grainger.com/product/TUNDRA-Inverter-45MR84

Ok, thanks to the widespread CA power cut, I've been researching portable power for a few nights so more up to speed with inverters and such. Although I have to say that I'm looking more at lithium ion battery based backup as it doesn't make sense for me to install a Generac in a house I do not own.

I guess you're fighting a tough fight with 2 protection circuits, one in your inverter, and another in the PSU. One interesting article here:

https://geekdad.com/2017/07/goal-zero-yeti-1400/

Now I did run into a problem here… The iMac shut down without warning three times while plugged into the Yeti. The computer has a Core i7 CPU and AMD Radeon graphics card that Apple says can pull 288W, so it shouldn’t have tripped the Yeti, which is rated to handle a 1500W surge. However, something happened. I wouldn’t have noticed this with an appliance plugged in, or a smartphone being recharged — they recover immediately and without user intervention — but it was immediately obvious with the iMac, which needed to be rebooted...

A company engineer investigated and pinpointed the likely culprit:

“There was a problem where the software over current protection only looked for a single ‘surge’ event when triggering a fault. The random electrical noise that everything experiences added to the actual current measurement was enough to trip this protection occasionally, resulting in the port being shut down as you experienced. The newer code looks for the fault to be present for a slightly longer time before tripping to minimize the role of any noise, reducing/eliminating these false alarms.”

I'm not an expert in both inverters and PSUs but there is a chance that the power circuitry in both are just not playing nice with one another. If you have a chance to plug the R7 into a wall supply from the grid, that could help remove half the guesswork in the equation?

Update:

my inverter is a true sine wave inverter. 

Brought the PSU back to Best Buy and got a new one. Just now installed and same thing. This time no life at all whereas the other turned on for 10 to 20 min. This one does nothing. I’m beginning to think I won’t have any luck...

if pictures are still wanted. Let me know, but I believe it’s all hooked up right.

Well... I added this stock piece back in which comes with with the computer. It’s a 24 pin bridge I was speaking of in past posts with a built in GPU power cord and she fires up............

now the last one did this too and ran for 15 to 20 min and shut off so I’m not out of the woods yet...

Ok here’s pics Incase. I know, fiancée is in CA. She’s having fun with that too.

@Bdsmithproductions :

Well... I added this stock piece back in which comes with with the computer. It’s a 24 pin bridge I was speaking of in past posts with a built in GPU power cord and she fires up............

Just to make sure we're on the same page as pics will take X amount of time to be approved where 1h < X < eternity, you are connecting the GPU_PWR header on your motherboard to a dedicated EPS/ PCIe connection on your new PSU, correct? The GPU power cord part of that connector is left unused, correct?

P.S: I ended up buying a measly Jackery 500. Even if it doesn't solve my PGE worry entirely (there's no planned shutoff where I live... yet), but when it happens, at least I have something to charge the battery lamps and cell phones. Probably stepping up to a Goal Zero Yeti 1400 and some solar panel when bonus comes in later this year.

 So on the original power supply there is a 24 pin connector that comes out of it. But in between that in the motherboard there is another 24 pan piece that’s about 2 inches long that I told you about before it has a GPU power cord wired into it that comes out and goes into the GPU power. That is what I left in there because if I took from the new power supply the 24 pin connector and plug straight into  The motherboard and then took a separate PC i.e. cable and plugged into the GPU power and then into the power supply it did not work but with that little bridge that I keep talking about before it does not work and it’s been running for about I don’t know an hour or two now ever since the last post. 

If I am ever in the area and you need a good inverter I have a 3000 W power drive true sine wave inverter that I don’t use if you are in need of one