You should Probably get a new keyboard. Here’s the link. You should make sure to run an ePSA test to check if the keyboard is messed up before you buy a replacement.
Alienware 13 R3 Backlit Keyboard with LED controls.
Thanks for the tip, but sadly the ePSA said my keyboard was working perfectly. If I had access to a wiring diagram of the keyboard it could give me some clues on what exactly is happening, since it's only the W, K, F5, Windows Key and left arrow keys that are on the fritz. After tapping any of those for enough time, the moment one of them starts working again, they all do. @DellCares is there anyway I can extend my warranty to get this fixed? Thanks!
The ePSA will just get a response from the keyboard so it will assume everything is working fine. I had the same issue on a 13 R2 I rebuilt and a new keyboard fixed it for me.
You can try removing the problem keys to see if there is a structural problem. It probably can't hurt at this stage. Use one finger on each hand and pull the key up from the left and right side using the underside of your fingernail. The key will pop out. There will be a plastic X-Hinge that attaches the key to the keyboard and you should also see a rubber nipple. It's possible that this nipple is damaged. It's more likely to be the electronic signal from the key to the keyboard circuit board though. Even if the nipple is damaged it will require a new keyboard.
Don't worry, you can check your first connection to see if it is loose, and if not, then check your key board key from this website: https://keyboard-tester.org
A51-06
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July 10th, 2020 12:00
You should Probably get a new keyboard. Here’s the link. You should make sure to run an ePSA test to check if the keyboard is messed up before you buy a replacement.
Alienware 13 R3 Backlit Keyboard with LED controls.
https://www.amazon.com/Original-Dell-Alienware-Keyboard-Backlit/dp/B07WNJBVYZ/ref=pd_sbs_147_1/138-7870927-9365607?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07WNJBVYZ&pd_rd_r=34bd8162-b5cb-474d-b91d-f1db24ebc532&pd_rd_w=QuUGN&pd_rd_wg=qMSIk&pf_rd_p=bc074051-81d1-4874-a3fd-fd0c867ce3b4&pf_rd_r=RWXYMDEDNG7W5C7AK1Z9&psc=1&refRID=RWXYMDEDNG7W5C7AK1Z9
bluntcoder
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August 15th, 2020 16:00
mattyb3
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August 15th, 2020 17:00
The ePSA will just get a response from the keyboard so it will assume everything is working fine. I had the same issue on a 13 R2 I rebuilt and a new keyboard fixed it for me.
You can try a key tester program. There are a few online. https://www.keyboardtester.com/
You can try removing the problem keys to see if there is a structural problem. It probably can't hurt at this stage. Use one finger on each hand and pull the key up from the left and right side using the underside of your fingernail. The key will pop out. There will be a plastic X-Hinge that attaches the key to the keyboard and you should also see a rubber nipple. It's possible that this nipple is damaged. It's more likely to be the electronic signal from the key to the keyboard circuit board though. Even if the nipple is damaged it will require a new keyboard.
A51-06
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August 15th, 2020 21:00
A new keyboard would be required.
Tony011
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July 25th, 2024 06:35
Don't worry, you can check your first connection to see if it is loose, and if not, then check your key board key from this website: https://keyboard-tester.org