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July 14th, 2013 09:00

Aurora R4 overheating problem SOLVED!!!

I posted few days ago about my  aurora overheating problem but got no real answer... So i decided to find the problem by myself and look what i found ...

My theory was that my pump wasnt working because 1 hose ( the out ) was really getting hot ( almost can't touch it ) and the intake was cold.

So i removed my entire watercooling systems

the inside pump liquid was full no problem here

4722.pump.jpg

The input right side...  no problem

1307.input.jpg

And finaly ... the problem the output of the liquid was complety blocked by that gelly thing

3463.output.jpg

So i cleaned all this with alcool, putted new thermal paste on CPU and here we go [:O]

Before

2388.temp.jpg

After

2818.Temp after.jpg

So i hope this thread will help someome because i did alot of search and found nothing that helped me.

And i got a question for alienware support wasnt the watercooling system was suppose to be maintenance free ??

This look like a bad quality watercooling liquid ! And its not old i bought my comp in june 2012 so warranty ended 1 month ago ...

1 Message

October 26th, 2013 05:00

Hey, I'm pretty sure I have this same problem, I've took out the Cooling system an all no problem but now the heat sink just refuses to budge, do you have any tips for getting it out?

24 Posts

October 27th, 2013 05:00

Just want to also add to this post by saying great job! If anyone has an Alienware Aurora R4 and all of a sudden the system fan just runs out of control this is a great place to start. I also had an issue with my system running perfectly for 10 months then one day out of the blue the system fan would run on HIGH RPM for just browsing on the internet. I searched google.com and found this write up and tried it myself and sure enough mine was slam clogged as well. Cleaned it with some gentle soap and water and rinsed VERY thoroughly before re-installing. Now it works like a charm!! Still purchased a Corsair H80i to replace this Dell POS, but the system runs with no issues after the cleaning. Thanks again and I truly hope others will locate this post.

11 Posts

November 5th, 2013 09:00

can anyone confirm that an h80i cooler will be a direct fit? I understand that the h55 will be but I feel like the h80i would do a better job of cooling

24 Posts

November 5th, 2013 10:00

The H80i isn't exactly a direct fit, but it does work. You will notice that the RAM near the CPU is a bit tight once you have the radiator installed and that you will have to do a slight bit of modification to the mounting of the radiator fan to the case itself, but otherwise it fits pretty nicely. Just installed one in my Aurora R4 a few days ago and I am satisfied with the results so far.

Truckin

11 Posts

November 5th, 2013 10:00

awesome how much modification to the case are we talking.? couple holes? 

also cooling results how are they? 

11 Posts

November 5th, 2013 11:00

I assume that is your cpu temp? Because at load mine reaches 74c and the mobo is like 92c

11 Posts

November 5th, 2013 11:00

dear god idle mine is 48, looks like I know which cooler I'm getting, how did you get the back side of the case off to put the mounting bracket on the backside of the cpu? 

24 Posts

November 5th, 2013 11:00

I didn't make any mods to the case itself; however, I did have to utilize the OEM fan screws to hold the pull fan on the radiator to the case itself as the supplied screws weren't long enough IMO. I also had to remove the video card shield as it would not open and close easily; I felt this was due to the larger radiator on the H80i vs. the OEM radiator. Temps have been varied depending on which product you use to measure them, but I have seen around 33 C on Idle and around 48 at max load on the CPU. I am happy with my purchase at this point, I just hope it doesn't clog up like the OEM cooler did......

Truckin

24 Posts

November 5th, 2013 11:00

I have the Intel LGA 2011 socket so there was no need to install the back plate from Corsair. All I had to do was place the magnetic holder on the CPU, install the four screws directly into the OEM plate on the motherboard and that was it. If you have another type socket requiring the use of a back plate then I think you are going to have to remove the motherboard itself as I don't think the back side of the case is removable. I could be wrong on that point, but I didn't see anywhere it could be separated. Good luck with you install!

Truckin

24 Posts

November 5th, 2013 11:00

I apologize, yes that is my CPU temps not my motherboard temps.....Should have made that a bit more clear....

Truckin

11 Posts

November 5th, 2013 12:00

thanks! one last question did you use the thermal grease that came with it only? or have to apply some as well to the processor

11 Posts

November 5th, 2013 12:00

Did you use the thermal grease that was pre applied only? or did you end up getting your own

24 Posts

November 5th, 2013 13:00

I removed the pre-applied thermal grease that was applied by Corsair and used Arctic Silver 5 thermal compound instead.....

Truckin

7 Posts

November 5th, 2013 17:00

Wound up cleaning the old stuff off and borrowing a large tube from the local repair shop (owner's a mate of mine) but a tinny tube shouldn't cost you much at all. Even the smaller tubes are likely to be too much than you can use without it leaking over the sides. Just a small dab on one corner of the back of the CPU, take a bit of cardboard (Used one of the mates business cards myself) and just spread it out across the back. You don't want much on it but at the same time, make sure the whole of the back is covered. Then just screw the cooling pump back on and you should be good to go

1 Message

November 7th, 2013 09:00

Hey Dudes I have just joined the club, My Alienware Aurora R4 is a little over 12 months old and yes out of warranty

Two nights ago whilst doing a flying lap of brands hatch in an Shelby Cobra (shift 2) my cpu fan went into overdrive and real Temp started showing alarms(I have it set to warn at 100 deg C) I read this thread and set about stripping cooling system.

The heat sink was clogged with a salt like residue and there was next to no coolant in the system, removing the hoses I find outlet in rad also clogged with the same,after flushing and refilling with high grade automotive premixed coolant (used in my ninja) idle temp is in the mid twenties.

Thank you all so much for taking the time to post.

David

Liverpool UK

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