Bois optiplex 3060

safeboot is NOT secure boot.

safe kills USB and DVD booting,  by design. just turn it off.  (using secure boot is  your decision)

64bit OS is very secure unlike any 32bit,  it has rad hard, 64bit kernel now.  use only that.

also GPT needed. if boot drive is over 2GB.  is needed. no HDD/SDD stated by you.

I have no need for large boot drives, only the OS so use MBR,  all my data is on other  drives HUGE.

I can burn my boot drive SSD 256BG to the ground and lose not any data., ( E:/data and F: games, G: apps.) see.?

no mention at all how you made INSTALL BOOT MEDIA< at microsoft.com USB builder

My answer is not the dell way, it is using MS way, I do now own any dell dicks (recovery) and NEVER WILL.

upgrade the BIOS first, I would. it is step one for me on any old or new PC drug in to a shop for any reasons.

I use freedos/linux or F12 to  do that is best of best way.  , no HDD/SSD need be present nor desired.!

now in bios do this, as you know I see but check out my list. your PC is intel GEN8  near new....

• all uefi turned off   if that is your GOAL and IS YOUR CALL.
• USB ports all turned on , in BIOS, do not fail to check this on ANY PC ever.
• SAFEBOOT turned off,  if on USB nor DVD will ever boot this is UEFI dirty trick and yah endless posts here.
• now in BIOS boot order, set USB to first.
• At mS dot com get he builder, for w10-64 bit, use that (done on PC2 not dead no infected ,wink)
• now boot that USB on a tesT PC, to be sure 1st screen shows up. if yes, good if not ...what can I say.
• last put the new USB installer from MS in any USB slot USB3 is best for speed, put any SSD drive now.
• bot the PC and The STICK boots for SURE,  then see lots of questions, then see a lame directory listing of the SSD,  see that it is blank and do not mess around here, just let the staller DO IT ALL and it will for sure. if no HHD or SSD shows up, then it was not erased correctly .
• the correct way to erase  is how you did it on 2nd PC, and I use Killdisk, or maybe ccleaner will work.

I use free of cost, killdisk.exe.. 

I use this if I ever suspect infections and this way all partitions are gone and 100% clean , I use wipe 1 pass of 0's. fast way,  and works, every time,  no CIA erasing needed or days long, ok.

The infections can go into any partition so get them all gone now.  then reload w10 fresh, v1903.

 

 

 

 

not sure the order of events here, for sure last line meaning

"I Downloading New v of Bios and i Upgrade With USB after done not working"  (WHAT FAILS?)

my guess you used F12 to load new BIOS?,  and not working means bios loaded ? OK BUT /??

try to understand there are 4 ways to burn firmware,  F12 is one, and my guess, and not stated. f12 IS BEST.

but if YOU USB booted THE BIOS STICK, then it does boot and your MS install USB boot stick is no good.?

Tell what you do, and minor steps, using what and how done, for sure I can not guess your steps and screens.

what you are saying is (my guess) the BIOS flashed ok and looking in the F2 1st menus, you see IT DID,

and is the correct new version right,? then GOOD, we have progress, new BIOS loaded.

then you find the same F12 key (hot keY) fails to boot any MS w10 64 install USB STICK?  fails to boot stick?

the stick is dead, is that it? if yes the stick is dead, done wrong. not doing what MS told you to do. step by step.

or the stick MS does boot, and only the SSD is missing there.  is that iT? only this,? (please be clear on this)

if yes, that means you used the WRONG tools to erase a disk.  let me tell you what can happen.

first off MS install.exe has very strict rules on allowing new or old disks into the system.

Rules:  (simple it really is very complex but hear me out)

1: alien formatted disk not shown, for sure that means apple formats not allowed or linux or even virus damaged formats,  (yes some virus are very very nasty) (exfat formats are allowed too)

2: ;the SSD (if hDD then HDD) must be legal MS formats, NTFS is common. and others too.(vast are NOT)

The installer may not like your disk if it thinks there is data there that is no yours. and balks.(uefi rules )

but is moot here, as we know it is infected so we erase it using top  grade tools not stated by you. at all.

tools matter, some are good some are fair other bad.

some OEMs have secret partitions on the HDD, (not just hidden) dell I think does not use secret partitions.

but does have dell service partitions new. no sure history of your PC, at all nor Upgrades etc, etc. but is moot.

moot means no Dell install media so are using MS media installer (using the MS builder)

A used HDD can have this dirty trick bought used, and if  true needs a powerful disk erasure to end this.

if you had  a SED drive, this is supported by the maker, with instant secure Erased drives.... I have no idea what HDD /sdd you own, not me.

the key issues are,

1: drive encryption if on must be off. (reversed) then data backed up.; make sure HDD is not SED drive, is yes do what the drive maker tells you do do now. (to erase it) most can be.

2: erase the drive and turn OFF safeboot.   (not SAFE mode that is different now and not F8 key )

I'd have called it ONEBOOT, (only boots  1 device)

3:boot the MS usb install stick and it will see the old ssd/hdd there. for sure. if not the drive is bad or the erase fails.

what if that virus you claim to have is really a bad HDD?  smart tests FAIL, I use my linux demo disk to tell me if and disk fails using DISKTEST there,  it never lies to me ever. and I trust it.  costs zero dollars to do with spare boot media to boot lunux, demo.

ubuntu linux v16 up. boot that, pick try me, and the run disktest and gander there.  see, the words uncorrectable there believe that and retire the drive.

 

some newer DELLS have  built in erase disk feature in BIOS, did you look for that?

 

 

 

I posted 2 times , 2nd due to confusing last line in your post, please elaborate all those facts.