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XPS 8930, GPU and CPU Liquid Cooler, PSU, Case Swap, Upgrade
Computer: Dell XPS 8930
CPU: i7 8700
CPU Cooler: UPGRADE: Corsair H60 (2018 Model) Hydro Series AIO Liquid CPU Cooler
Graphic card manufacturer / model number: UPGRADE: Liquid cooled MSI GeForce GTX 1080 SEA HAWK X 8GB 256-Bit GDDR5X PCI Express 3.0 x16 ATX Video Card
Bios: 1.0.12
Operating System: Windows 10 Home v.1803
Power supply: UPGRADE: Seasonic Focus Plus Gold, SSR-850FX, 850W Compact Modular Power Supply
Monitor: Samsung S34E790C - 34-Inch Curved WQHD (3440 x 1440) LED Monitor using Displayport.
Edit: 06/06/19
Case fan upgrades here
PSU upgrades here
Non-Dell GPU upgrades here
Phanteks case swap summary here
Case swap rather than case mod for more cooling options here and here and here
Motherboard connections for case swap here
Full liquid cooling with waterblock here
Tests slim 15mm fans with HWInfo.
Idle CPU Temps 32C.
Idle fan speeds intake 450-500 RPM
CPU FAN and TOP FAN = motherboard headers
***Prime 95 v2.66 CPU Torture Test, Small FFT, 12 cycles. 60 minutes:
CPU temps 66-70C. Max temp 75C (boost)
Clock speeds 3492 mHz (~10% overclock @ 65W TDP), max 4490 mHz
Voltage stable at 1.022, max was 1.3
Upper Intake Fan (CPU FAN) CPU cooler max RPM 1078
Lower Intake fan (TOP FAN) GPU cooler max RPM 1019
Upper exhaust fan fixed 1500 RPM.
Prime 95. initial boost of CPU 100% load at 4490 mHz at 110 W / 1.3v. Then tests at stable ~10% overclock 3492-3589 mHz at ~65W at 1.022 volts, temps 66-70C.
***3d Mark Fire Strike Test for system 1080P, ~ 7min.:
CPU Temps: Max 75C
Clock speeds max 4388 mHz
Voltage max was 1.31
Upper Intake Fan (CPU FAN) CPU cooler max RPM 906
Lower Intake fan (TOP FAN) GPU cooler max RPM 869
Upper exhaust fan fixed 1500 RPM.
GPU Temps: Max 79C
GPU Fan speed, 1100 RPM idle, max RPM 2822
GPU Clock max 1961 mHz
So far, CPU temps okay. But GPU temps high, will check bezel airflow.....
***3d Mark Fire Strike Test 1080P, ~ 7min
(front bezel off to test airflow restriction)
CPU Temps: Max 72C
Clock speeds max 4388 mHz.
Voltage max 1.31
Upper Intake Fan (CPU FAN) CPU cooler max RPM 853
Lower Intake fan (TOP FAN) GPU cooler max RPM 1183
Upper exhaust fan fixed 1500 RPM.
GPU Temps: Max 72C
GPU Fan speed, 1100 RPM idle, max RPM 2611
GPU Clock max at 1965 mHz
Changes with front bezel off:
CPU temps dropped by 3C
GPU temps dropped by 8-10C
CPU temps acceptable through bezel. GPU airflow through bezel needs tweaking!
==========
The install:
Tasks for upgrade in new XPS 8930:
1) Install Corsair H60 (2018 Model) Hydro Series AIO Liquid CPU Cooler
2) Install lower front intake fan/radiator with liquid cooled MSI Sea Hawk GTX 1080 HYBRID GPU
3) Upgrade PSU to Seasonic Focus Plus Gold, 850W Compact Power Supply
I need to accomplish this keeping in mind the following:
-Run the Corsair CPU cooler pump at constant 100% speed
-Requires fans connected to both 4 pin fan headers (CPU FAN) and (TOP FAN) to avoid startup error.
==========
Installing Corsair Liquid CPU Cooler:
New 2018 Corsair Hydro Series H60 has 157 x 120 x 27mm radiator and SP120 PWM fan. Pump has rotating barbs for hose placement to avoid the swinging PSU. Pump connects to a PSU SATA cable for 100% power and the radiator PWM fan to the CPU FAN motherboard 4 pin header. Optional tach cable to monitor pump speed and provide a signal to the fan header to prevent startup errors. Fan specs: SP120 PWM, 1700 RPM, 28.3 dBA, 57.2CFM.
Slim fan for tight location: Noctua NF-A12x15 PWM, 1850 RPM 23.9 dBA 55.44 CFM / 1400 RPM 16.8 dBA 41.67 CFM
The 3 pin version is a good option at fixed speed to noise tolerance for constant airflow.
Review below posted 60C temps with i7 8700K CPU 30 min stress test at stock clocks.
https://proclockers.com/reviews/cooling/corsair-hydro-series-h60-120mm-liquid-cooler-review
Nice installation guide here:
https://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/corsair-h60-review.html
The XPS 8930 chassis is similar to the Alienware R5/R6/R7, but the Alienware allows for CPU liquid cooling by having an opening to mount the fan/radiator through the top of the chassis, an installation bracket, and a top cover to house the unit.
With no such space in the XPS 8930, I saw two possible locations a liquid cooler could be installed: Upper exhaust and front intake.
1) Tried the upper exhaust position first without success with the radiator in the top exhaust fan location. The problem is that the rigid hose fittings protrude into the case 20mm. The PSU bracket is not able to close.
I also tried the radiator upside down with the hoses above the motherboard. But with the radiator lined up with the top exhaust opening, a CPU power connector, capacitor and fan header block the area at the hose fittings.
2) Next the front upper intake position at the hard drive location. With intake cooling, cool air enters the radiator but warm air exits into the case. Should not be a problem if CPU temps are ok.
I found that the radiator can install with hoses up or down. With the radiator upside down, the hoses can spread on either side of the motherboard ATX connector.
Picture bottom install location:
Flipping the radiator upright, the swinging PSU bracket negates any liquid cooling in that location with the hoses up as the bracket cross bar crushes the hoses when lowered.
However, I found that by removing the cross bar off the bracket and a small corner off the bracket support leg it would work.
So I chose having the hoses up as the installation path.
1) Flatten the wire holders in that location.
2) Remove the two support legs and the swinging PSU bracket by removing screws at the leg supports and a few at the rear.
3) Used dremel reinforced cutting wheel to do about 5 minutes worth of cutting, then deburring the cut edges.
Picture dremel cuts. (Additional recommended cut to use 25mm fan here)
4) Then placed the radiator up with the hoses at the front of the chassis. The bottom of the radiator fits between the two screws that hold down the supports of the PSU bracket.
5) Attach the 15mm fan with the model label showing for pull orientation and use 4 - 1” or 1 ¼” 6-32 machine screws to attach the radiator. NOTE: The 6-32 screws used for the radiator have a different thread than the 6-32 hex head screws being used in the case. Big box stores have these screws.
Pic of screws
6) Carefully mark the location of the holes in the radiator and drill four holes to mount the radiator to the front of the chassis.
How I did this was place the radiator, then use tape on the front of the chassis to mark the sides of the radiator position.
Then put another piece of blue tape across the front of the radiator at the middle of the top holes.
With the radiator in position inside the chassis and the sides lined up with the tape, look through the rear grill at the blue tape and mark the height of that tape on the front chassis. Marks represent the height of the radiator holes.
Mark the height of the holes with another piece of tape across the front of the chassis.
You now have the height of the top holes.
7) Place a fan on the chassis between the two pieces of tape at the sides and line the two top holes with the radiator mark. Mark all four holes . Again tape off the case well to make sure you don’t get metal filings anywhere.
Mount the radiator with fan to the chassis using ¾” 6-32 machine screws.
9) Installing the pump head:
Clean CPU with alcohol. You see the 4 mounting holes here
Using th 4 double sided pins, put the lower pins into the mounting holes. No modifications needed, the unit is set up for the Dell motherboard LGA1151 CPU socket. Mount the cooler pump by placing the corner attachment brackets on the upper pins and tighten the thumb screws. You can’t overtighten these, they just won’t turn any further when tight.
10) Connect radiator fan to the 4 pin CPU FAN header.
11) Attach pump SATA power to the PSU.
12) With no cross bracket on the PSU swinging bracket, there is room for the pump hoses to flex under the PSU. There is a smooth rounded edge where the bracket contacts the hoses when closed. As an additional precaution install braid wrap on the upper part of the hose for protection at that point.
Done!
Picture again from top, note no bar on the PSU bracket and the edge of the lower part of the PSU bracket that will contact the hoses when down.
==========
Installing MSI GTX 1080 Hybrid GPU: The 151mm high radiator is installed in a sideways position with the hoses in front. The GPU is 10.5” long leaving little room for both fan and radiator at the lower intake position.
With little space to put a fan on the radiator inside the case, the slim 15mm fan was mounted in front of the chassis and under the front bezel. The front bezel is over 20 mm deep so the fan is able to still pull air from the bezel front side vents.
Picture front bezel
1) The only problem encountered was a large raised hole in the middle of the front of the chassis which interfered with fan placement. Keep turning the fan to the position centered to the radiator where the fan frame doesn't hit that large bump.
2) Check that the side of the radiator is clear of the swinging arm of the PSU bracket. Important!.
3) Drill 4 holes, attach the fan to radiator using 4- 1 ¼” 6-32 machine screws.
I also used a10mm foam compressible Phoyba radiator gasket on the radiator due to the 1" wide flange at the rear of the front chassis.
It supports the Alienware R5/6/7 front intake fan bracket that snaps in at this location. That piece of metal prevents the radiator from sitting flush. The gasket took up that space. It has adhesive on one side to attach to the radiator.
Note: In the picture of the front bezel a large plastic hollow pin sticks up that would hit the fan in that location. Trim with the dremel cutting wheel.
Picture front install, note no bar on the PSU swinging bracket.
4) Connect the slim fan on the AIO radiator to the 4 pin header (TOP FAN). (Noctua NF-A12x15 FLX 1850 RPM 23.9 dBA 55.44 CFM / 1400 RPM 16.8 dBA 41.67 CFM)
Notes
Protect the radiator fins with a piece of cardboard taking the GPU in/out. They are bent easily by the corner of the GPU.
Edit 9/18/18 GPU temps resolved here: (must read prior to installing, grillwork is removed)
Edit 02/23/19 Recommended cuts to use 25mm fan on CPU radiator here and here
Edit 03/15/19 Fixed speed radiator fan CPU temps 55°C range here
**This thread edited for accuracy, add'l pics and current information.
NightsongWS
10 Posts
0
August 29th, 2019 07:00
I am very sorry, I thought I found a post about this once but I couldn't seem to find it or a relevant video on this subject. Does anyone have any tips for installing the Hyper EVO 212 on an 8910's board, after it has been installed into a new Meshify C Mini case? I moved it after struggling with persistent heat issues and, while the idle temps aren't much lower, it's not climbing as high under load with all the new fans, which is perfect for me. I'd still like to replace the stock cooler, though.
MANY THANKS to Zeus, HanoverB and AlienBlaster (among others!) for the absolutely beautiful examples and instructions posted to the forums, my poor overworked computer thanks you too!
HanoverB
798 Posts
1
August 30th, 2019 02:00
Reply to @NightsongWS
I am very sorry, I thought I found a post about this once but I couldn't seem to find it or a relevant video on this subject. Does anyone have any tips for installing the Hyper EVO 212 on an 8910's board, after it has been installed into a new Meshify C Mini case? I moved it after struggling with persistent heat issues and, while the idle temps aren't much lower, it's not climbing as high under load with all the new fans, which is perfect for me. I'd still like to replace the stock cooler, though.
Nice case! Yes replace the stock cooler for sure.
Since you need to install the Hyper Evo 212 mount pins through the motherboard you will need to remove the existing motherboard CPU backplate. The screws from the mounting bracket likely won't fit into the threaded mounting holes that are on the existing Dell 1151 backplate. There are some that do, like the Corsair H60 (2018) CPU cooler. But on the nicer air coolers like the Cryorg H7 and the Hyper Evo 212, the backplate needs to be removed.
The problem you will encounter is that Dell uses a combined socket clamp backplate to hold the CPU and the heatsink versus two separate backplate mounts for the CPU socket and the heatsink found on traditional motherboard CPU installations. So when you try to install the Hyper Evo or Cryorg coolers the mounting backplate they give you assumes you have a separate backplate holding down the CPU socket.
Read about it here from @GHoopers thread and the workaround.
https://www.dell.com/community/XPS-Desktops/XPS-8930-How-I-Fixed-the-Noise-Issues/td-p/5650372?ref=lithium_acptsoln
NightsongWS
10 Posts
0
August 30th, 2019 10:00
Thank you!!! You know, that thread you linked to might just be the one I couldn't find a second time. It looks really familiar. This is perfect!!
Before I try any major disassembly, I have some new fittings on order that I want to try out first. In my impatience, I did a bunch of careful measuring and ordered something that would achieve the same height as the Cooler Master fittings (gasket+screw) but retain the M3 screw size between the mobo and the EVO 212's mounting screws. The screws on the new cooler and mobo holes both appear to be M3, but the Cooler Master fittings to go with their backplate are not. My luck, right?
I really hope I can get the 212 EVO mounted somehow, I'd really love to get the airflow moving -through- the case rather than at a cross-current!
GTS81
2.2K Posts
1
August 30th, 2019 11:00
@NightsongWS , I'm new to CPU air coolers so I started reading the manual for the EVO 212 here:
https://coolermaster.egnyte.com/dl/WvfHzB8IAQ/
If I understand what you're trying to do, you want to skip the step of removing the current backplate and installing the new backplate. Instead, you will just try to mount the cooler's attachment plate using a different set of mounting screws (parts E & D in the manual).
Even if that works out, I'm still wondering if the manual shows there is no way to get a cross-flow of air because for LGA1151, it shows the radiator fins pointing at the PCIe slots and not the DRAM slots. Any idea?
NightsongWS
10 Posts
0
August 30th, 2019 14:00
Greetings, and thanks for any help and insight!
That's exactly what I was hoping to do. I've been made confident to try new things by getting my first-ever case transfer to work without major headaches (thanks to the awesome threads here in the Dell community), but I'm a little leery yet to try peeling off the bits of motherboard around the processor. Adding new stuff, though? I can do that!
Right now on my xps 8910 the stock cooler is drawing air from directly in front of it and pushing the air flat against the mobo in a radial fashion, going in all directions. It works, but it could be better in my new case, which has cold air coming in from the bottom/front and exiting the top/back. On the new cooler I got, though, it shows the air passing through the fins from front-to-back, and I placed the fan on the back of my case at the same height so hopefully the air would just pass through and go out entirely.
This is my case, and I added all seven fans, four intake and three exhaust to make it slightly positive pressure and leverage the dust filters as much as I could. Hopefully any excess air will be moving out through the vents and crevices, and not letting dust in.
https://www.fractal-design.com/products/cases/meshify/meshify-c-mini-dark-tempered-glass/black/
NightsongWS
10 Posts
0
August 30th, 2019 15:00
I'll find out for sure the next time I open it up! (It's my work machine and I'm currently running a bunch of end-of-the-month tasks so probably won't get to it for at least one more day.)
Worst case scenario, if that does turn out to be the case, then at least I can set the air to blow straight out the top. The fans can be snapped to either side of the cooler and, if I need more flow, I can set two fans up for push-pull to seriously move the air upwards and out.
Or bite the bullet and get one of the different coolers HanoverB mentioned. I should really look those up anyway.
Thank you very much for looking at the manual for me, I hadn't even considered that I might've totally mucked up and gotten the wrong cooler because this one was raved about so much!
GTS81
2.2K Posts
0
August 30th, 2019 15:00
Likewise I've come to rely on this community a lot on getting the right parts. Case-in-point is the highly acclaimed Strix RTX cards. It was on my buy list until I started to see all the space problems in this chassis and had to dump the idea.
GTS81
2.2K Posts
1
August 30th, 2019 15:00
Technically that would be the ideal solution. However, having the air-passing-fins-front-to-back looks only possible for socket 2011 and not 1151 as shown in the manual. In the manual that I see online, it looks like for 1151, the fan pushes air bottom to top? I could be wrong.
NightsongWS
10 Posts
0
August 30th, 2019 16:00
If it helps at all, my MSI RTX 2060 isn't a Strix card (those do look pretty sweet) but it's got plenty of elbow room in my case. I only had to take it back out again when I realized I had to ditch the HD enclosure to put in all the fans I wanted to.
NightsongWS
10 Posts
1
September 2nd, 2019 18:00
Thank you guys, so very, very much for your help! The alternative screws did not work as much as I would have liked for the Hyper EVO 212, leaving me with some concerns about the strain on the motherboard over time, so I swapped instead to a backup plan of the H60. Call me chicken, I can't afford to hurt my work machine, so I spent a little more and opted for the more efficient longterm course.
With the radiator in the topmost position on the front there is -just- barely enough clearance above to still keep both top fans, and there was just barely enough room in front of the motherboard power cord to install two fans in a push/pull configuration around the radiator, drawing air in. Thank you so much for posting pictures of the screws needed to get, it made the difference!
Currently I'm rendering out 3D scenes at 67C on a Summer evening with no AC, and that's the best of any computer I've had so far, so you've got my heartfelt thanks!!
HanoverB
798 Posts
0
September 2nd, 2019 20:00
@NightsongWS
NIce job and great temps. Post some pics!
Any particular reason (other than cost) you didn't go with 240mm radiator as intake vs 120mm radiator as push/pull? Clearance for the dual upper exhaust fans in the smaller case, GPU length? There should be room in the intake position with a 10.5" GPU like this one.
The Phanteks case is a little longer than the Meshify Mini to clear the GPU and upper fans.
Here is a pic of the Fractal case with a 240mm in the upper exhaust positon. Intake position would be preferred. Tight fit with the long GPU at the front of that chassis.
NightsongWS
10 Posts
1
September 4th, 2019 21:00
But... But... you want me to stop my machine to take pics?? But I'm running Substance Painter, baking normal maps in Modo, running backups, checking email, AND surfing these forums all at once and I'm looking at 56-63C! The computer is not stuttering at all! It's so AMAZING to have a computer so cool! And it has dust covers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (This is like having a dress with POCKETS!)
And, to be honest, the only reason I didn't snag the 240 was cost. I've already spent more on this quest than I wanted to. Looking at my docket for the rest of the year, I absolutely had to make sure my computer would run cooler than it has, though. Years ago, I accidentally burned up my old computer (not to the point of being completely broken, just horribly inefficient) running day-long video renders for homework during a very, very hot Summer and it's left me excessively paranoid with doing the same thing again now that I've got a different computer to work with.
Thank you VERY much for posting the pics of the Phanteks case! I can really appreciate the extra room! One hiccup I did run into was because I mounted the radiator with the hoses on the top, they just -barely- brush one of my top fans (coincidentally, the one plugged into the TopFan header) and I got a startup error that made me panic good until I realized what the problem was. All it took was a tiny, light touch to the hoses and the fan spun free. Right now I have quite inelegantly pulled the hoses down to a lower cable using a loose zip-tie chain but I'm hoping that once I've got a few spare bucks I can just get a stiff 140mm grill to mount to the top fan and shelter the moving blades from the tubing. If I can't get a grill to work over the fan, I'll try flipping the radiator upside down to see how that works. Next time I get the case open I shall definitely get pics!
But, until then... I must make use of this fantastical beast!
GTS81
2.2K Posts
1
September 4th, 2019 22:00
If you're not particular about how the "Corsair" word comes across, maybe change the orientation of the pump mounted to the CPU? Of course that means clean and reapply thermal paste.
NightsongWS
10 Posts
0
September 5th, 2019 08:00
@GTS81You know, I don't mind the orientation of the word at all (my case is very pretty but I'm more interested in it working well) and I'd be tempted to try out that suggestion if I wasn't currently running Substance at 27C on a foggy Summer morning, which is more than 10C cooler than my pre-radiator days. I sooooo don't want to tempt fate with reapplying thermal paste. No jinxing this new and fabulous setup!
GTS81
2.2K Posts
0
September 5th, 2019 09:00
You are one of the rare ones who can resist not jinxing a good rig setup. Imagine opening the casing for that one last adjustment before going to sleep only to realize 2 cables aren't lining up nicely and the next thing you know, it's a full blown project to remove the motherboard.