Just commenting that j46j2 (the VRM heatsink, single side pictured above) is not compatible with the R11, the hole spacing is different and it is too short.
You will need a jumper wire between the 4 screw holes for cpu. vrm has 2 holes and also needs jumper so that the bios sees that each heatsink is attached aka j46j2
both cpu and vrm heatsinks are metal and conductive shorting the screw holes together for the vrm and cpu so that the bios senses the HSinks are attached. Liquid coolers are plastic and non conductive.
PSA NA
ePSA 2000-0714
Heat Sink - Heat sink clip not installed.
BIOS detected that the heat sink clip was not installed.
j46j2. vrm hs
no heatsink means error
PSA NA
ePSA 2000-0714
Heat Sink - Heat sink clip not installed.
BIOS detected that the heat sink clip was not installed.
The R11 VRM heatsink is the double, part N1C1D. That is the one you would need. If you contacted dell part sales and provide your service tag they will confirm the proper part number and cost.
Changing to Liquid cooled also involves getting VRM heatsinks and other mods.
@DELL-Chris M might have more information. Either way these modifications are not supported under your warranty.
critical error 2000-0714
users that upgraded from air cooling (with no VRM HS) that used the Corsair H60 are reporting this error.
Its not a ronco one step set and forget.
You will need a jumper wire between the 4 screw holes for cpu. vrm has 2 holes and also needs jumper so that the bios sees that each heatsink is attached aka N1C1D for R11
Copying and pasting between threads eventually ends up with you ran out of time to update the post.
both cpu and vrm heatsinks are metal and conductive shorting the screw holes together for the vrm and cpu so that the bios senses the HSinks are attached. Liquid coolers are plastic and non conductive.
PSA NA
ePSA 2000-0714
Heat Sink - Heat sink clip not installed.
BIOS detected that the heat sink clip was not installed.
I haven't received the item yet so cannot confirm, but my understanding was that there is a VRM heatsink installed on the R11 3080 model (image below is from the web - someone who received their 3080 R11):
I would still appreciate some guidance as to whether re-seating the graphics card into the lower slot would cause any bandwidth reductions or other issues?
The flow I was envisiging are as follows:
As for the solution - it already costs out to £500, which is brutal, so adding more premium parts to move it towards £700 is probably the death knell.
An alternative would be just to cool the graphics card with an internal radiator, reservoir, and pump, given the CPU is already separately cooled. One idea is as follows, but would require a case mod to create air intake in the bottom plastic case, removal of 2.5" drive bays, etc:
This approach is much cheaper - around £350 if I scrimp around, maybe £400 max.
I am guessingI would need to connect the PWM from the pump to a Y splitter with the front fan, and hope that would slave it to that, but otherwise I would have to either run it at full, or invest in a separate fan control card.
I thought I should post an update. Okay, so I had 6 hours of conference calls today, and my computer arrived during them so I could not open it up and play with it, but what I could do what use a piece of cardboard to make some pretend radiator + fan boxes. I quite enjoyed my conference calls, cutting and sticking cardboard pieces (all carefully measured).
What am I talking about? This:
Yes, that is a 270mm cardboard box, 30mm high. I also made fans .... 120x120.
The bad news is that a 270mm (which is the shortest 2x120mm radiator I have been able to find online) does not actually fit very well. Below I have circled in red the lip that is used to catch and hold the case closed (one of the tabs you click up or down to lock/unlock the case). I think I could install a 270mm fan in this area, but it would be real tight!
Next up I removed my ridiculous 1TB 3.5" drive, and repurposed the sata power cable to install a 2.5" SSD at the bottom of my case (this may be temporarily positioned depending on the water cooling situation). I removed the HD case completely, and also tidied up the cables by removing the spare ones that are not used. I then slipped in two 25mm deep 120mm fans (okay, I accept, these are also cardboard boxes ......):
I was trying to see if a 120mm radiator and 120mm fan would fit. Short answer: probably with compromises. The 120mm radiator would be 160mm tall to handle the inlet/outlet, and should fit in the case from top to bottom, but to fit that and a fan you probably need to go 15mm on the fan, and then 25mm on the radiator, otherwise you have the potential to block the top to bottom case airflow.
I also took a case-open, cables tidied photo:
HDD and caddy removed. HDD SATA cable removed from modular power supply. 2 PCIE power supply cables that are normally routed along side of case were also removed from the modular power supply. Finally removed the rear-most 2.5" SSD caddy. I added a SATA power cable to the bottom drive shortly after this photo, put her back together, and now I am typing this...
Oh, gratuitious 3080 shot:
Yeah, I know: LUCKY BOY!
So it turns out @Anonymous was right (as was @Vanadiel). If you want to water-cool this thing you really either need to get an external water-cooling tower, or you need to move to a different case. I love the case look (I actually bought my son a R11 with 1660ti for his Christmas this year - he has the white case, I have the black case).
So initial bright ideas are now discarded and I am rethinking plans.
So you have the same "problem" like me. I noticed in your picture the empty sockets on the modular power supply.
Do you have the modular cables for it somewhere, like are they strapped down inside the case for future use?
I can't locate mine, and I have a funny feeling they only supply the number of cables based on the configuration, as opposed to all the cables like any other power supply would come with.
@Vanadiel my power supply had SOME additional cables strapped to the case, which I have removed:
This one I removed (the connectors to the PSU are low down, but you can kind of follow the cable.
The above photo is also after I removed the SATA power cable for the 3.5" bay, which was this one:
So the Case Open photograph from my previous post was after removing these two surplus cables. That obviously means that a lot of cables were just not supplied at all with the PSU.
What cables are you missing? I appear to have 2 PCIE cables as shown below (these are the ones that I show above about to be removed), and that was it as far as extras. I definitely had open plug points on the PSU (I even took a photo of some of them if that is of interest)
Well, I noticed when I changed my RAM sticks that the PSU had sockets with no cables plugged into it.
Typically with a modular power supply, it comes with all the cables and whatever you do not use/need you store at a safe location.
Mine came with no extra cables, so I was wondering if they stored all the remainder of the cables inside the case. I never checked, I assumed that is what they did.
Now it looks like they might simply not include all the cables. Since in the longer run I am planning on transplanting this system into a new case and a new MB, I was hoping to transplant the PSU with it. But if it is missing cables, that might not be possible.
If it is missing cables they should supply them free of charge, because you pay for a complete PSU, not one with partial cables.
r72019
6 Professor
•
5.3K Posts
0
March 13th, 2021 15:00
Just commenting that j46j2 (the VRM heatsink, single side pictured above) is not compatible with the R11, the hole spacing is different and it is too short.
speedstep
9 Legend
•
47K Posts
0
March 13th, 2021 15:00
Changing to Liquid cooled also involves getting VRM heatsinks and other mods.
@DELL-Chris M might have more information. Either way these modifications are not supported under your warranty.
Its not a ronco one step set and forget.
https://www.dell.com/support/kbdoc/en-us/000181167/reference-table-of-epsa-psa-error-codes-and-troub...
You will need a jumper wire between the 4 screw holes for cpu. vrm has 2 holes and also needs jumper so that the bios sees that each heatsink is attached aka j46j2
both cpu and vrm heatsinks are metal and conductive shorting the screw holes together for the vrm and cpu so that the bios senses the HSinks are attached. Liquid coolers are plastic and non conductive.
ePSA 2000-0714
j46j2. vrm hs
no heatsink means error
ePSA 2000-0714
r72019
6 Professor
•
5.3K Posts
0
March 13th, 2021 16:00
The R11 VRM heatsink is the double, part N1C1D. That is the one you would need. If you contacted dell part sales and provide your service tag they will confirm the proper part number and cost.
speedstep
9 Legend
•
47K Posts
0
March 13th, 2021 16:00
N1C1D is for R11.
Changing to Liquid cooled also involves getting VRM heatsinks and other mods.
@DELL-Chris M might have more information. Either way these modifications are not supported under your warranty.
Its not a ronco one step set and forget.
You will need a jumper wire between the 4 screw holes for cpu. vrm has 2 holes and also needs jumper so that the bios sees that each heatsink is attached aka N1C1D for R11
Copying and pasting between threads eventually ends up with you ran out of time to update the post.
both cpu and vrm heatsinks are metal and conductive shorting the screw holes together for the vrm and cpu so that the bios senses the HSinks are attached. Liquid coolers are plastic and non conductive.
ePSA 2000-0714
Hewligan
1 Rookie
•
89 Posts
0
March 14th, 2021 00:00
Thank you all.
I haven't received the item yet so cannot confirm, but my understanding was that there is a VRM heatsink installed on the R11 3080 model (image below is from the web - someone who received their 3080 R11):
I would still appreciate some guidance as to whether re-seating the graphics card into the lower slot would cause any bandwidth reductions or other issues?
The flow I was envisiging are as follows:
As for the solution - it already costs out to £500, which is brutal, so adding more premium parts to move it towards £700 is probably the death knell.
An alternative would be just to cool the graphics card with an internal radiator, reservoir, and pump, given the CPU is already separately cooled. One idea is as follows, but would require a case mod to create air intake in the bottom plastic case, removal of 2.5" drive bays, etc:
This approach is much cheaper - around £350 if I scrimp around, maybe £400 max.
I am guessingI would need to connect the PWM from the pump to a Y splitter with the front fan, and hope that would slave it to that, but otherwise I would have to either run it at full, or invest in a separate fan control card.
Thanks!
r72019
6 Professor
•
5.3K Posts
0
March 14th, 2021 07:00
It will be a tight fit and you might need to remove the 2.5" caddies. But the speed/bandwidth is the same for the top and lower x8 GPU slots.
r72019
6 Professor
•
5.3K Posts
0
March 14th, 2021 07:00
The VRM heatsink is included if you pay for liquid cooling. But not with an air cooled R11.
Hewligan
1 Rookie
•
89 Posts
0
March 14th, 2021 10:00
And you @r72019
I did pay for liquid cooled CPU.
also thank you for the confirmation on the bottom slot.
Vanadiel
6 Professor
•
7.1K Posts
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March 14th, 2021 12:00
I would move everything over to a different case, and start with more room and options.
If you are planning on spending that amount of money on upgrades, might as well upgrade the case first.
Hewligan
1 Rookie
•
89 Posts
0
March 15th, 2021 13:00
But where is the fun in that?
Vanadiel
6 Professor
•
7.1K Posts
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March 15th, 2021 19:00
True. I always tell myself, why make it hard when it can be easy?
But I can see where the fun would come from for a select few who like to tinker around.
Hewligan
1 Rookie
•
89 Posts
0
March 19th, 2021 14:00
Hi all,
I thought I should post an update. Okay, so I had 6 hours of conference calls today, and my computer arrived during them so I could not open it up and play with it, but what I could do what use a piece of cardboard to make some pretend radiator + fan boxes. I quite enjoyed my conference calls, cutting and sticking cardboard pieces (all carefully measured).
What am I talking about? This:
Yes, that is a 270mm cardboard box, 30mm high. I also made fans .... 120x120.
The bad news is that a 270mm (which is the shortest 2x120mm radiator I have been able to find online) does not actually fit very well. Below I have circled in red the lip that is used to catch and hold the case closed (one of the tabs you click up or down to lock/unlock the case). I think I could install a 270mm fan in this area, but it would be real tight!
Next up I removed my ridiculous 1TB 3.5" drive, and repurposed the sata power cable to install a 2.5" SSD at the bottom of my case (this may be temporarily positioned depending on the water cooling situation). I removed the HD case completely, and also tidied up the cables by removing the spare ones that are not used. I then slipped in two 25mm deep 120mm fans (okay, I accept, these are also cardboard boxes ......):
I was trying to see if a 120mm radiator and 120mm fan would fit. Short answer: probably with compromises. The 120mm radiator would be 160mm tall to handle the inlet/outlet, and should fit in the case from top to bottom, but to fit that and a fan you probably need to go 15mm on the fan, and then 25mm on the radiator, otherwise you have the potential to block the top to bottom case airflow.
I also took a case-open, cables tidied photo:
HDD and caddy removed. HDD SATA cable removed from modular power supply. 2 PCIE power supply cables that are normally routed along side of case were also removed from the modular power supply. Finally removed the rear-most 2.5" SSD caddy. I added a SATA power cable to the bottom drive shortly after this photo, put her back together, and now I am typing this...
Oh, gratuitious 3080 shot:
Yeah, I know: LUCKY BOY!
So it turns out @Anonymous was right (as was @Vanadiel). If you want to water-cool this thing you really either need to get an external water-cooling tower, or you need to move to a different case. I love the case look (I actually bought my son a R11 with 1660ti for his Christmas this year - he has the white case, I have the black case).
So initial bright ideas are now discarded and I am rethinking plans.
Vanadiel
6 Professor
•
7.1K Posts
0
March 19th, 2021 20:00
So you have the same "problem" like me. I noticed in your picture the empty sockets on the modular power supply.
Do you have the modular cables for it somewhere, like are they strapped down inside the case for future use?
I can't locate mine, and I have a funny feeling they only supply the number of cables based on the configuration, as opposed to all the cables like any other power supply would come with.
They sell them separately?
Hewligan
1 Rookie
•
89 Posts
0
March 20th, 2021 01:00
@Vanadiel my power supply had SOME additional cables strapped to the case, which I have removed:
This one I removed (the connectors to the PSU are low down, but you can kind of follow the cable.
The above photo is also after I removed the SATA power cable for the 3.5" bay, which was this one:
So the Case Open photograph from my previous post was after removing these two surplus cables. That obviously means that a lot of cables were just not supplied at all with the PSU.
What cables are you missing? I appear to have 2 PCIE cables as shown below (these are the ones that I show above about to be removed), and that was it as far as extras. I definitely had open plug points on the PSU (I even took a photo of some of them if that is of interest)
Hope this helps.
Vanadiel
6 Professor
•
7.1K Posts
1
March 20th, 2021 14:00
Well, I noticed when I changed my RAM sticks that the PSU had sockets with no cables plugged into it.
Typically with a modular power supply, it comes with all the cables and whatever you do not use/need you store at a safe location.
Mine came with no extra cables, so I was wondering if they stored all the remainder of the cables inside the case. I never checked, I assumed that is what they did.
Now it looks like they might simply not include all the cables. Since in the longer run I am planning on transplanting this system into a new case and a new MB, I was hoping to transplant the PSU with it. But if it is missing cables, that might not be possible.
If it is missing cables they should supply them free of charge, because you pay for a complete PSU, not one with partial cables.