Aurora R8, Experience of Buying

Some narcissistic synthetic benchmark to reach > 4.5GHz. 

Just gotten Monster Hunter:World. I heard that it is CPU intensive but not sure if the 9400 will be a bottleneck.

Also to finally get to the point where AW OC Control won't lock me out of certain buttons and dials.

In all honesty, this 9400 @ 4.1GHz is way beyond adequate. Maybe I'll just wait for 10th Gen desktop CPU.

Yes, my expectation is to move to a new motherboard but that really puts me into the realm of reverse-case-transplant doesn't it? But that might also open up a whole can of worms related to PCIe and DDR. Hmm...

Dell is possibly all geared up for R9. I had an issue with failed AW OC install last week and when I scrubbed the log file, there was a qualifier that goes something like this:

if system MATCHES.... ("Aurora R7") OR ("Aurora R8") OR ("Aurora R9").

Oh, I forgot to mention earlier, but I was going to say, I was surprised that you were even able to install OC Controls with a locked CPU.  But you're not missing out on much or really anything.  If you upgrade to an unlocked CPU and wanted to use the Alienware present (canned) OC levels, you can get those through BIOs.  Otherwise, if you wanted to do more, intel has it's extreme tuning utility software. 

Oh, I forgot to mention earlier, but I was going to say, I was surprised that you were even able to install OC Controls with a locked CPU.  But you're not missing out on much or really anything.  If you upgrade to an unlocked CPU and wanted to use the Alienware present (canned) OC levels, you can get those through BIOs.  Otherwise, if you wanted to do more, intel has it's extreme tuning utility software.

My AWCC + AW OC experience has been a roller coaster ride. When my system was shipped to me, the entire ecosystem was still on BIOS 1.0.2 for R8 and I had 1.0.3 installed on mine. AWCC actually prompted me once that OC was turned off because of system instability. I took it that Dell has slipped up and gave me a free pass to overclocking because I ordered such a weird combination of 850W + liquid cooling + cheapest CPU.

Before I could play more with any OC, SupportAssist prompted me to install a bunch of updates. In that, it bumped my BIOS down to 1.0.2 and AWCC started pretending as if it never said anything about OC before. A bunch of back and forth ensued with tech support which of course tried their best to assure me that since I didn't hand over my $$$ to them for unlocked CPU, I shouldn't be having any OC. And kept assuring me that everything is fine with 1.0.2 BIOS and I was seeing things when I said I used to have 1.0.3. I left it at that because there's no point pursuing further.

Once I move to an unlocked CPU, I'll probably give OC Control a spin before using BIOS or XTU like you mentioned. Thanks.

I told myself I was gonna actually use this R8 tonight instead of tinkering with it. Actually tried out the free trial of Street Fighter 5 and launched Monster Hunter: World but the GPU ramping up its fans and staying near to 80C was driving me nuts every time I took off my noise cancelling headphones. So I popped open the case while MH:W was running.

GPU fans spinning > 3000 rpm yet I felt nary a breeze 1cm from the fan. Headed over to MSI website and OMG, them Frozr fans are INTAKES!!! My plan of adding a rear casing fan as an exhaust has backfired because all it did was move the air faster under the intake fans of the GPU. So I tried a few other combinations such as flipping the fan around as another intake from the rear and letting it rest at the bottom hoping to suck some air up through the casing floor directly onto the GPU fan. At best, I got a 4C improvement. Before, with the "improvement", I was actually hitting 80C quite often in Heaven benchmark. Now, at least it's mid-70Cs, peaking at 78C from scene to scene.

I think one of the reasons most GPUs shipped with XPS 8930 and R8 are blowers is because the casings aren't very good in dealing with recirculating heat. I'm thinking of mounting a 120mm fan on the side panel to exhaust the warmest air from the GPU. The R8 has side vents to accommodate this.

Before anyone launches into "why??!!!"

I understand exactly why 

Corsair H55.

Isn't this a CPU cooler? You are lookin to cool your GPU, correct?

LOL @ the fan **bleep** the air from the case

I have pontificated before; but will reiterate here;

if your radiator fan is in the exhaust position, you are using hot case air to cool your radiator liquid, which is inefficient

if your radiator fan is in the intake position, you are cooling your radiator liquid with fresh air, but blowing the heated air into your case, which is not good

the only way to avoid this conundrum is an external radiator (which admittedly, can be expensive)

I'd be interested to see where the H55's radiator ends up going since you already have the Alienware AIO's radiator on the top exhaust.  Just thought I'd mention for future consideration, since you indicated you may upgrade again later, that blower style GPUs offer the convenience of exhausting the hot air out of the case, and are designed for cases with limited airflow.  I assume that's why the OEM Aurora GPUs are all blower style.   Open air GPU's have fans that suck the air over the exposed heatsink and it usually comes out the side of the GPU into the case.  In other words the air is recirculated.  That's probably why you feel the hot air movement blowing up and out from side of the GPU when you run the computer with the case open. While this is more efficient if you have high airflow, in limited airflow cases this may work as a detriment because it heats up the case if there is insufficient internal air movement to exhaust all that hot air.  With blower style GPUs, there's a plastic case covering the heatsink, the fan **bleep** the air from the case into the GPU, the air then runs over the heatsink, and is expelled out the rear of the GPU and outside the case. 

@r72019 thanks for the pointers on the card types and how they are better suited for different casings. Yes, I also think that was why Dell went with so many blower cards and it was unwise of me to write them off as inferior to open fan type cards.

@Anonymous the name of the game here is tradeoff. For now I'll try out using an intake to cool the radiator and then have the hot air circulate somewhat in the case. I could try and use that nifty 80mm noctua to bleep it out the rear.

I spent a good part of the evening doing test fittings with radiator and fan placements. All I have to show for is a bloody thumb after nicking it on a rear slot opening. The original plan is to place the radiator on the inside-front-bottom while the fan sits on the outside. However, the R8 front bezel isn't thick enough to accommodate the 25mm thick 120mm fan. I tried both the h55 fan and my ML120 which are essentially cousins. From the outside, it seems like the bezel thickness would be ok. The inside of the bezel shows otherwise. The air vents are made up of strips that aren't in a parallel plane. Instead, there are groups of 5 pieces that sit more inward, closer to the casing. This creates pinch spots for the fan.

Fan + radiator inside also didn't fit as the GPU is long enough that the power connector portion will hit the radiator.

Placed an order for the Noctua NF-AF12x15 PWM. Will test fit it tomorrow. However, I am skeptical that I could get by this exercise without investing in a dremel set to cut the casing. For those who have cut their case with a dremel, how loud would it be? Actually I think the way the AIO radiator is designed to truly be efficient with the fan sticking to it which means I need to make a gaping hole in front to push the radiator + fan as a single piece through the casing.

Summary - SUCCESS

GPU Idle Temp - 39C

GPU stock clock (1366MHz) Heaven Benchmark, front Noctua AF12-15 @ 40% in AWCC - 50C

GPU overclocked to 1400MHz same test and fan speed - 60C

GPU overclocked to 1450MHz (never hit this before) - 60C because my frame rate limiter was turned on! 

Too tired to run additional tests and tweak settings.

;TLDR version follows

Received the slim fan today and got down to work. Due to family commitment, front fan installation, plastic stub cutting was done after dinner while the heavy lifting happened after everyone went to sleep.

Choice of AIO, gasket, and GPUTest fit for radiator.

ML120 Pro doesn't fitPush pull no-go with dual ML120

I spent 70% of the time on this mini-project doing test fits and what-ifs before any actual disassembly/ assembly happened. This is to gather as much information as possible before crossing the point of no return once the first screw gets turned or a hole gets punched in the casing. This also delayed the completion by a day as I scrambled to get a slim fan. If you stay in the US and want to get the AF12-15 through the famous online retailer, you need to click on the Noctua page and then select the fan you want. Otherwise you will see choices only from 3rd party seller selling them for $50 a piece.

Shroud removed and TIM cleaned.Bracket installedThis IS thermal paste. Right???

Couple of notes regarding the removal of shroud and attachment of the Kraken.

1. Memorize all the steps before starting. Have the pieces you need sorted out and within reach.

2. Thermal pads can be tacky and some dirty fingers will transfer dirt onto them.

3. Prepare as many alcohol wipes beforehand. You won't believe how much overflowed TIM I had to deal with.

4. Most people end up losing access to their card's fan port. In my case, there's the added mini 4-pin that reaffirms my decision to buy that SATA-to-3pin splitter.

Assembly complete

The pictures below shows the end results. I took it using flash because my hands were still shaking. Despite all the fit tests done, I failed in assuming that the Kraken would be less restrictive than the Armor shroud. I was wrong. The card could not even be placed in the casing in a normal way. I had to pull the rear of the casing and angle the card in some really scary manner, some metal against metal sliding before it went in. And then I realized the side plate with the glorious NZXT word is slightly pressing on the radiator hose! So I had to once again, scratch PCB against something and get the card out, use a pair of pliers to bend the plate in to get the results below. But not before once more doing the scary thing of stuffing this card back into the case.

Bent sideAIO liquid cooled CPU and GPU Alienware Aurora R8

Throughout the relatively physical activity, I did see the card flex slightly. Just kept thinking that this thing won't even boot up anymore. Even if it does, which it did, I will forever live with the fear of BSOD due to this. It may be tomorrow or 5 years down the road but it is a decision I made and I will own it. If you were to ask me if someone else who has the same GPU and casing do it? I would say no. Just save up for a card that is shorter before trying this. Notice how NZXT expects the Kraken to reach the front of the card. MSI's design parked the GPU and VRMs to the center and rear of the card, with copious amount of space near the front. Probably because of their fan designs all the way from Ventus up to Gaming X.

Once again, my thanks to the community members here who have boosted my confidence with their upgrades and mods to the point that I'm willing to try something out. This purchase was supposed to be a turnkey solution with a GPU upgrade planned 9-12 months down the road. However, discovering this community and doing these upgrades have been a more enjoyable and educational experience.

Great Job! Thank you for sharing.

Based on the GPU temps you are seeing, I'm pretty sure that is thermal paste. 

If you have any advice on how to get that push pull configuration working with 2x M120 Pro and a 25mm-27mm radiator (Alienware/ Corsair h55/ NZXT m22; they are all around this thickness @ 150mm x 120mm). I tried stacking my ML120 Pro on top of the radiator mount of the R8 casing like below but am unable to close the top cover due to the height.

Should I be sandwiching the radiator and then mount them all below the bracket? That might stick out into the top of the casing internally. Any ideas? Thanks.

Push pull no-go with dual ML120

So right now you have the 120 mm X 15 mm fan mounted outside the case (but under the front shroud), in front of the H55 radiator???

EDIT: OK I see now that you have moved to the top of the case for your CPU fan.

That may be all you can get with a full length graphics card. I know HanoverB got a push-pull setup over in the giant XPS fan thread, but that was for his CPU radiator, in the upper half of the case, where there is no graphics card to contend with. He also removed some of the restriction (with a blow torch)  . . . not sure if you are up for something like that.

photo by @HanoverB