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August 18th, 2018 06:00
XPS 8930, GPU and CPU Liquid Cooler, PSU, Case Swap, Upgrade
Computer: Dell XPS 8930
CPU: i7 8700
CPU Cooler: UPGRADE: Corsair H60 (2018 Model) Hydro Series AIO Liquid CPU Cooler
Graphic card manufacturer / model number: UPGRADE: Liquid cooled MSI GeForce GTX 1080 SEA HAWK X 8GB 256-Bit GDDR5X PCI Express 3.0 x16 ATX Video Card
Bios: 1.0.12
Operating System: Windows 10 Home v.1803
Power supply: UPGRADE: Seasonic Focus Plus Gold, SSR-850FX, 850W Compact Modular Power Supply
Monitor: Samsung S34E790C - 34-Inch Curved WQHD (3440 x 1440) LED Monitor using Displayport.
Edit: 06/06/19
Case fan upgrades here
PSU upgrades here
Non-Dell GPU upgrades here
Phanteks case swap summary here
Case swap rather than case mod for more cooling options here and here and here
Motherboard connections for case swap here
Full liquid cooling with waterblock here
Tests slim 15mm fans with HWInfo.
Idle CPU Temps 32C.
Idle fan speeds intake 450-500 RPM
CPU FAN and TOP FAN = motherboard headers
***Prime 95 v2.66 CPU Torture Test, Small FFT, 12 cycles. 60 minutes:
CPU temps 66-70C. Max temp 75C (boost)
Clock speeds 3492 mHz (~10% overclock @ 65W TDP), max 4490 mHz
Voltage stable at 1.022, max was 1.3
Upper Intake Fan (CPU FAN) CPU cooler max RPM 1078
Lower Intake fan (TOP FAN) GPU cooler max RPM 1019
Upper exhaust fan fixed 1500 RPM.
Prime 95. initial boost of CPU 100% load at 4490 mHz at 110 W / 1.3v. Then tests at stable ~10% overclock 3492-3589 mHz at ~65W at 1.022 volts, temps 66-70C.
***3d Mark Fire Strike Test for system 1080P, ~ 7min.:
CPU Temps: Max 75C
Clock speeds max 4388 mHz
Voltage max was 1.31
Upper Intake Fan (CPU FAN) CPU cooler max RPM 906
Lower Intake fan (TOP FAN) GPU cooler max RPM 869
Upper exhaust fan fixed 1500 RPM.
GPU Temps: Max 79C
GPU Fan speed, 1100 RPM idle, max RPM 2822
GPU Clock max 1961 mHz
So far, CPU temps okay. But GPU temps high, will check bezel airflow.....
***3d Mark Fire Strike Test 1080P, ~ 7min
(front bezel off to test airflow restriction)
CPU Temps: Max 72C
Clock speeds max 4388 mHz.
Voltage max 1.31
Upper Intake Fan (CPU FAN) CPU cooler max RPM 853
Lower Intake fan (TOP FAN) GPU cooler max RPM 1183
Upper exhaust fan fixed 1500 RPM.
GPU Temps: Max 72C
GPU Fan speed, 1100 RPM idle, max RPM 2611
GPU Clock max at 1965 mHz
Changes with front bezel off:
CPU temps dropped by 3C
GPU temps dropped by 8-10C
CPU temps acceptable through bezel. GPU airflow through bezel needs tweaking!
==========
The install:
Tasks for upgrade in new XPS 8930:
1) Install Corsair H60 (2018 Model) Hydro Series AIO Liquid CPU Cooler
2) Install lower front intake fan/radiator with liquid cooled MSI Sea Hawk GTX 1080 HYBRID GPU
3) Upgrade PSU to Seasonic Focus Plus Gold, 850W Compact Power Supply
I need to accomplish this keeping in mind the following:
-Run the Corsair CPU cooler pump at constant 100% speed
-Requires fans connected to both 4 pin fan headers (CPU FAN) and (TOP FAN) to avoid startup error.
==========
Installing Corsair Liquid CPU Cooler:
New 2018 Corsair Hydro Series H60 has 157 x 120 x 27mm radiator and SP120 PWM fan. Pump has rotating barbs for hose placement to avoid the swinging PSU. Pump connects to a PSU SATA cable for 100% power and the radiator PWM fan to the CPU FAN motherboard 4 pin header. Optional tach cable to monitor pump speed and provide a signal to the fan header to prevent startup errors. Fan specs: SP120 PWM, 1700 RPM, 28.3 dBA, 57.2CFM.
Slim fan for tight location: Noctua NF-A12x15 PWM, 1850 RPM 23.9 dBA 55.44 CFM / 1400 RPM 16.8 dBA 41.67 CFM
The 3 pin version is a good option at fixed speed to noise tolerance for constant airflow.
Review below posted 60C temps with i7 8700K CPU 30 min stress test at stock clocks.
https://proclockers.com/reviews/cooling/corsair-hydro-series-h60-120mm-liquid-cooler-review
Nice installation guide here:
https://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/corsair-h60-review.html
The XPS 8930 chassis is similar to the Alienware R5/R6/R7, but the Alienware allows for CPU liquid cooling by having an opening to mount the fan/radiator through the top of the chassis, an installation bracket, and a top cover to house the unit.
With no such space in the XPS 8930, I saw two possible locations a liquid cooler could be installed: Upper exhaust and front intake.
1) Tried the upper exhaust position first without success with the radiator in the top exhaust fan location. The problem is that the rigid hose fittings protrude into the case 20mm. The PSU bracket is not able to close.
I also tried the radiator upside down with the hoses above the motherboard. But with the radiator lined up with the top exhaust opening, a CPU power connector, capacitor and fan header block the area at the hose fittings.
2) Next the front upper intake position at the hard drive location. With intake cooling, cool air enters the radiator but warm air exits into the case. Should not be a problem if CPU temps are ok.
I found that the radiator can install with hoses up or down. With the radiator upside down, the hoses can spread on either side of the motherboard ATX connector.
Picture bottom install location:
Flipping the radiator upright, the swinging PSU bracket negates any liquid cooling in that location with the hoses up as the bracket cross bar crushes the hoses when lowered.
However, I found that by removing the cross bar off the bracket and a small corner off the bracket support leg it would work.
So I chose having the hoses up as the installation path.
1) Flatten the wire holders in that location.
2) Remove the two support legs and the swinging PSU bracket by removing screws at the leg supports and a few at the rear.
3) Used dremel reinforced cutting wheel to do about 5 minutes worth of cutting, then deburring the cut edges.
Picture dremel cuts. (Additional recommended cut to use 25mm fan here)
4) Then placed the radiator up with the hoses at the front of the chassis. The bottom of the radiator fits between the two screws that hold down the supports of the PSU bracket.
5) Attach the 15mm fan with the model label showing for pull orientation and use 4 - 1” or 1 ¼” 6-32 machine screws to attach the radiator. NOTE: The 6-32 screws used for the radiator have a different thread than the 6-32 hex head screws being used in the case. Big box stores have these screws.
Pic of screws
6) Carefully mark the location of the holes in the radiator and drill four holes to mount the radiator to the front of the chassis.
How I did this was place the radiator, then use tape on the front of the chassis to mark the sides of the radiator position.
Then put another piece of blue tape across the front of the radiator at the middle of the top holes.
With the radiator in position inside the chassis and the sides lined up with the tape, look through the rear grill at the blue tape and mark the height of that tape on the front chassis. Marks represent the height of the radiator holes.
Mark the height of the holes with another piece of tape across the front of the chassis.
You now have the height of the top holes.
7) Place a fan on the chassis between the two pieces of tape at the sides and line the two top holes with the radiator mark. Mark all four holes . Again tape off the case well to make sure you don’t get metal filings anywhere.
Mount the radiator with fan to the chassis using ¾” 6-32 machine screws.
9) Installing the pump head:
Clean CPU with alcohol. You see the 4 mounting holes here
Using th 4 double sided pins, put the lower pins into the mounting holes. No modifications needed, the unit is set up for the Dell motherboard LGA1151 CPU socket. Mount the cooler pump by placing the corner attachment brackets on the upper pins and tighten the thumb screws. You can’t overtighten these, they just won’t turn any further when tight.
10) Connect radiator fan to the 4 pin CPU FAN header.
11) Attach pump SATA power to the PSU.
12) With no cross bracket on the PSU swinging bracket, there is room for the pump hoses to flex under the PSU. There is a smooth rounded edge where the bracket contacts the hoses when closed. As an additional precaution install braid wrap on the upper part of the hose for protection at that point.
Done!
Picture again from top, note no bar on the PSU bracket and the edge of the lower part of the PSU bracket that will contact the hoses when down.
==========
Installing MSI GTX 1080 Hybrid GPU: The 151mm high radiator is installed in a sideways position with the hoses in front. The GPU is 10.5” long leaving little room for both fan and radiator at the lower intake position.
With little space to put a fan on the radiator inside the case, the slim 15mm fan was mounted in front of the chassis and under the front bezel. The front bezel is over 20 mm deep so the fan is able to still pull air from the bezel front side vents.
Picture front bezel
1) The only problem encountered was a large raised hole in the middle of the front of the chassis which interfered with fan placement. Keep turning the fan to the position centered to the radiator where the fan frame doesn't hit that large bump.
2) Check that the side of the radiator is clear of the swinging arm of the PSU bracket. Important!.
3) Drill 4 holes, attach the fan to radiator using 4- 1 ¼” 6-32 machine screws.
I also used a10mm foam compressible Phoyba radiator gasket on the radiator due to the 1" wide flange at the rear of the front chassis.
It supports the Alienware R5/6/7 front intake fan bracket that snaps in at this location. That piece of metal prevents the radiator from sitting flush. The gasket took up that space. It has adhesive on one side to attach to the radiator.
Note: In the picture of the front bezel a large plastic hollow pin sticks up that would hit the fan in that location. Trim with the dremel cutting wheel.
Picture front install, note no bar on the PSU swinging bracket.
4) Connect the slim fan on the AIO radiator to the 4 pin header (TOP FAN). (Noctua NF-A12x15 FLX 1850 RPM 23.9 dBA 55.44 CFM / 1400 RPM 16.8 dBA 41.67 CFM)
Notes
Protect the radiator fins with a piece of cardboard taking the GPU in/out. They are bent easily by the corner of the GPU.
Edit 9/18/18 GPU temps resolved here: (must read prior to installing, grillwork is removed)
Edit 02/23/19 Recommended cuts to use 25mm fan on CPU radiator here and here
Edit 03/15/19 Fixed speed radiator fan CPU temps 55°C range here
**This thread edited for accuracy, add'l pics and current information.
HanoverB
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September 30th, 2018 20:00
Thanks! Being done with the machine is nice.....I can go back to fishing again LOL.
The Deepcool 10 Port Fan Hub looks real nice
http://www.deepcool.com/product/dcoolingaccessory/2017-11/12_7223.shtml
That device looks nicer and functions very similar to the Silverstonetek unit I had on hand when I made the changes to the machine.
https://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?area=en&pid=526
Those are nice fan hubs where all the 4 pin PWM fans you connect would run at the same speed as the PWM fan in the 1st connector position. Any 3 pin fans are powered at 100% and are not speed controlled. I like the fact that one could still use any of the LNA (low noise adapters) in conjunction with the fan control unit to decrease the fixed speed of a 3 pin fan.
The hub also allows you to use multiple fans on one header where they might exceed the rating of the motherboard fan header. (Assumed to be 1.5A on these headers from the stock fans installed)
I wound up not using it because the Noctua fans came with the necessary Y cables and extension cables for power if necessary. It would have been easier to route wire using the single hub for sure. I also looked at it as one more device that could fail.....
HanoverB
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September 30th, 2018 21:00
Duly noted. Would be simple to just block the sides off with some duct tape or similar. Thanks.
Would also get better airflow to the CPU cooler if one were to remove the fine grill work at that location in front of the radiator.
The lower front intake fan for the most part cools the area under the GPU and the PCI-e slots. If using a full size 10.5" GPU, the bulk of the card literally divides the small case into an upper half and lower haIf separated by the GPU. Add a radiator in that intake position and it divides the case even more so.
That front upper position is a known dead spot where heat accumulates and with a hard drive there, it certainly isn't helping things with this negative pressure case trying to pull cooler air through that upper intake vent behind the hard drive. Add a NVME SSD and it makes matters even worse. Add an ineffective stock CPU cooling fan that is blowing warm air around in the upper compartment, a conservative motherboard cpu fan curve, heat rising up off the GPU, the PSU taking up much needed space, and one can see why temps get hot.
Fortunately the liquid cooler is able to help manage the heat in the upper part of the chassis along with the exhaust fan.
As you mentioned, in a situation with the liquid cooler installed, it would make sense to block off any openings you aren't using for cooling with a fan in the front upper position as an intake for the upper area and if you were to move the hard drive to the low position in the chassis.
RawRanger
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November 19th, 2018 15:00
Thanks HanoverB! For writing the whole process down in step-by-step instructions. I thought it impossible to water cool an XPS 8930, but this way is straightforward and seems not too complicated. I have read all posts many times in order to be able to do it myself. Still I am not advanced enough to understand all the details and I would like some answers from anyone on here before I make any major mistakes.
My plan is to install the setup as described in the posts, but minus the GPU cooling system.
I was going to place the Corsair Hydro H60 grill in the top front with the 2 push/pull Noctua NF-A12x15 PWM fans on either side, as pictured in the postings.
Then I would place the leftover Corsair Hydro fan in the bottom front of the case. A Noctua NF-A12x25 in the top of the backside of the case and a Noctua NF-SA12 FLX (?) under the top grill of the case.
For looks I would like to add the two Phanteks Halos RGB Fan Frames like in the pictures. One for under the top grill and one for the front bottom fan..A great idea btw.
Now I am fairly good with this kind of stuff, but you guys on here are well above my level, so I would like to ask some questions:
Would it make a big difference not adding the GPU cooling system? I have a GTX 1060 in there and am not a major gamer. I do use graphics intense software that require a lot of the GPU and the system in general. But not for sustained periods as gaming does.
And would the stock PSU provide enough power for the CPU cooling system and fans in my setup? Or do I still need a more powerful one, despite leaving the GPU cooling unit out?
Do I have the right choice of fans in the right locations? I think this is exactly like mentioned in the postings, but the GPU cooling system obscures and changes the setup from mine.
One of the posts suggests using a Noctua NF-SA12 FLX 3 pin fan as upper exhaust fan, but I cannot find that specific model. Is it maybe the NF-F12 instead?
Can a PWM fan be used as a FLX fan by using 3 out of its 4 pins? And do FLX fans themselves have controls that determine the constant speed?
And finally, do the Phanteks Halos RGB Fan Frames work with only a remote control? Or do they have to be connected to the motherboard somehow?
Thanks for reading. Any feedback or suggestions would really be appreciated.
HanoverB
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November 19th, 2018 21:00
Look here:
https://www.dell.com/community/XPS-Desktops/XPS-8930-GPU-and-CPU-Liquid-Cooler-PSU-Case-Swap-Upgrade/m-p/6138060/highlight/true#M16396
Try the fans to the TOP FAN header with a Y adapter option first. With the CPU liquid cooler, I think you will be fine. The CPU pump tach cable can go on either the TOP FAN or CPU FAN header. Single fan is fine on the CPU radiator as well. If you upgrade the fans, the Noctua fan is the NF-S12A FLX 3pin and they are a lot quieter and you can run those at fixed speeds if the stock fans are too loud.
HanoverB
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November 19th, 2018 22:00
Would it make a big difference not adding the GPU cooling system? I have a GTX 1060 in there and am not a major gamer. I do use graphics intense software that require a lot of the GPU and the system in general. But not for sustained periods as gaming does.
You don’t need the GPU cooler with the GTX 1060
And would the stock PSU provide enough power for the CPU cooling system and fans in my setup? Or do I still need a more powerful one, despite leaving the GPU cooling unit out?
Stock PSU is fine
One of the posts suggests using a Noctua NF-SA12 FLX 3 pin fan as upper exhaust fan, but I cannot find that specific model. Is it maybe the NF-F12 instead?
It is the Noctua NF-S12A FLX
Can a PWM fan be used as a FLX fan by using 3 out of its 4 pins? And do FLX fans themselves have controls that determine the constant speed?
Yes you can, but the PWM fan will run at maximum RPM when connected to a 3 pin fan header.
Noctua FLX fans come with low noise adapters that can change the fixed speeds.
And finally, do the Phanteks Halos RGB Fan Frames work with only a remote control? Or do they have to be connected to the motherboard somehow?
Since the Dell motherboard does not have a RGB controller built in, the Phanteks Halo RGB fan frame needs both an adapter and controller that can change the colors, brightness and static/dynamic modes. It connects directly to a SATA connector off the PSU. So you would need
Phanteks Halo RGB fan frame PH-FF120RGBP-BK01:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074Q65CRV/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Adapter: Phanteks RGB LED 4 pin adapter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BZIBJAK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
XSPC RGB Controller 4 Pin SATA:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0735FWQ14/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Under the top cover it would look good.
Most of the RGB fan controllers and fan kits need USB 2.0 header on the motherboard. This was one way around that with the fans I wanted to use.
HanoverB
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November 19th, 2018 23:00
Just thinking about adding the RGB effects through the top grill and how to avoid drilling holes.
If you put the Halo frame inside the case, a 25mm thick standard fan + the thickness of the Halo frame in the top exhaust location does not work. The PSU bracket will hit it. That’s why I put the Halo frame on the grill under the top cover. I used two existing openings where the wireless cable is held down for two rubber fan pins for one side of the fan frame, and drilled two holes for the other two pins.
So if you use the OEM fans or other 25mm standard fans, under the top cover is the only place to mount the fan frame.
Trim edge on cover so won't pinch the wire
Lets say you want another way to avoid drilling holes. The Noctua 15mm thin fan still performs well (cfm within 10% of the 25mm standard NF-A12 at load). An easy way to add lighting would be to replace the 25mm thick OEM fan and mount the Halo fan frame with the slim 15mm fan to the fan bracket where that fan currently is installed inside the chassis. It would allow the PSU to close.
The same PWM version of that fan used for the CPU radiator runs from 500 RPM at idle to 1000 RPM at load. Using the FLX version would be better (fixed with LNA at 1400RPM) as it will be drawing air continuously out of the case. Case temps are not an issue with the CPU liquid cooling, you just want a decent fan pulling air out of the case. As previously mentioned, I am using Noctua's best 25mm air flow fan fixed at 1200 RPM.
Order of install:
Top of case
Metal Bracket
Halo Fan Frame pointed down onto fan
120 x 120 x 15mm Fan
PSU Bracket
The easiest way would be to use a 3 pin fan like the Corsair AF120 LED fan that comes in red, white, blue or purple. I have a picture of that fan in white installed at the very beginning of this thread.
https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Fans/AIR-SERIES-LED-CONFIG/p/CO-9050015-WLED
It runs at 1500 RPM at 25.2dba (52.19 CFM) compared to the Noctua 15mm 3 pin FLX fan fixed at 1400 RPM at 16.8 dba (41.67 CFM). I found it to be a little noisy and if you use a low noise adapter, the voltage drop causes the RGB lighting to dim accordingly (still looks okay) So you would have connect that Corsair fan to a molex adapter on the PSU or simply connected to the 4 pin TOP FAN header. Easy to install, it just depends on your noise tolerance.
RawRanger
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November 20th, 2018 08:00
Thank you for taking the time to answer my questions HanoverB. Like the whole thread they are incredible thorough and educative. I did not know anything about fans or airflow before, but now I at least understand the basics of it all and it is more complicated than I expected.
I am going to follow your suggestions and go with the OEM fans first. Like you said, if they are too loud, I can swap them out at a later point in time.
A question regarding the lighting of the lower front fan. Would it not be possible to attach a fan to the outside of the bezel and attach the Phanteks Halo RGB fan frame to that fan? Pretty much like you did with the GPU grill fan setup? In that case I would not have to cut a hole in the front bezel. Or is there no room for that?
If that is not an option I will cut an opening in the front bezel. That’s the round piece of grill you cut out and that’s showing in your pictures right?
And one final question: I assume my GTX 1060 does not need a cooler as it is a mid-range card that does not run as hot as a GTX 1080. That made me wonder: would swapping my 1060 for a 1080 or later model card result in a significantly better overall performance? When I run benchmarks on my system as it is now, it is usually the GPU that receives the lowest scores compared to the other components I use. On the other hand is swapping GPU's quite costly, so the benefits would have to be worth the cost.
Thanks again for all the feedback. I really appreciate it.
RawRanger
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November 20th, 2018 09:00
Thank you for taking the time to answer my questions HanoverB. Like the whole thread they are incredible thorough and educative. I did not know anything about fans or airflow before, but now I at least understand the basics of it all and more complicated then I expected.
I am going to follow your suggestions and go with the OEM fans first. Like you said, if they are too loud, I can swap them out at a later point in time.
A question regarding the lighting of the lower front fan. Would it not be possible to attach a fan to the outside of the bezel and attach the Phanteks Halo RGB fan frame to that fan? Pretty much like you did with the GPU grill fan setup? In that case I would not have to cut a hole in the front bezel.
If that is not an option I will cut an opening in the front bezel. That’s the round piece of grill you cut out and that’s showing in your pictures right?
And one final question: I assume my GTX 1060 does not need a cooler as it is a mid-range card that does not run as hot as a GTX 1080. That made me wonder: would swapping my 1060 for a 1080 or later model card result in a significantly better overall performance? When I run benchmarks on my system as it is now, it is usually the GPU that receives the lowest scores when compared to the other components I use. On the other hand is swapping GPUs not that cheap, so the benefits would have to be worth the cost.
Thanks again for all the feedback. I really appreciate it.
546insp
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November 20th, 2018 09:00
It's not the fans that are too loud, it's the RPMS they have to run at.
HanoverB
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November 20th, 2018 11:00
It looks like this: (link is supposed to take you to bottom of first page: adding a front intake fan for $15)
https://www.dell.com/community/XPS-Desktops/XPS-8930-CPU-Liquid-Cooler-GTX-1080-Hybrid-GPU-Upgrades/m-p/6138060/highlight/true#M16396
RawRanger
7 Posts
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November 20th, 2018 11:00
You are right. I was confused and English is not my native language. For some reason I thought the front cover/bezel was translucent or glass like. I obviously haven't taken my case apart yet. And yes.to drill a hole in it like you did is way too risky for me to do.
I have tried Googling what an Alienware front intake bracket exactly is and where to get one. Would that be through Dell?
HanoverB
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November 20th, 2018 11:00
RR, I am likely confusing you. I’m good at that.
When I refer to the front bezel, that is the black plastic piece that fits on front of the computer case that has DELL written on it.
The chassis is the metal framework of the computer.
I cut a round blowhole for a 120mm fan using a 4.5” hole saw through the front black bezel to allow better airflow to the GPU radiator.
I cut a portion of the metal grill work on the chassis to get better coupling between the fan and radiator for the GPU liquid cooling.
So to answer your question, if you mount a fan in front of the chassis under the front bezel with the Halo fan frame like I did, you won’t see the lighting on the fan at all unless you cut a hole in the front bezel. It’s not worth the effort unless you are really into the bling factor. I did the lighting as the fan is flat out ugly and was showing because I had to cut the blowhole for the Sea Hawk GPU cooler.
It would be simpler to add the front intake fan using the Alienware front intake bracket, put a halo fan bracket on the top exhaust fan and leave it at that. It looks nice.
RawRanger
7 Posts
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November 20th, 2018 11:00
HanoverB
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798 Posts
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November 20th, 2018 11:00
Save your money on the bling factor and put the $ towards the upgrades that are functional.
HanoverB
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798 Posts
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November 20th, 2018 11:00
Anything above the GTX 1060 needs a better PSU so add that to the cost of your upgrades. Given that you are liquid cooling the i7 8700 CPU you can add any of the older Pascal GTX cards or new RTX cards without worrying about CPU temps. I would get a rear blower type card (Founders type reference models) that exhausts air out of the back of the case to manage temps better. With the front intake fan in place you should be okay in the lower compartment.
As far as performance, you stated that you use graphics intense software that require a lot of the GPU and the system in general. Since you have the i7 8700 and are using a GTX 1060, it would be worthwhile to upgrade your GPU if you need the performance of a high end system.
I can comment only from the gaming perspective. So this may or may not you.
Hardware requirements for gaming depend on what type of game you are playing and the resolution of the monitor you are using and the refresh rate. You also need to determine how much detail you want in a game (postprocessing) and how smoothly you want your gameplay to be (fps).
For gaming which tends to be more GPU intensive:
If you are at 1080p and 60 Hz, the GTX 1060 and 1070 are fine.
If you are at 1080p and 240Hz, the GTX 1080 is fine.
If you are at 1440p or 4K and 60Hz, then the GTX 1080 or 1080ti are necessary.
If you want 1440p or 4K and 120 Hz or more then you need the new RTX cards.
With games that have large open worlds with bigger maps, the CPU comes into play.
With MMO games that have small to medium maps and high player counts, racing games with rapidly changing frames, they tend to be more GPU intensive.
Then there are big open world games that have detailed textures and visuals like Witcher 3. The game looks fantastic but the postprocessing done by the GPU requires serious hardware to play at maximum settings at 60 fps+ at higher resolutions/pixel counts and refresh rates.
HTH