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August 18th, 2018 06:00

XPS 8930, GPU and CPU Liquid Cooler, PSU, Case Swap, Upgrade

Computer:  Dell XPS 8930

CPU:  i7 8700

CPU Cooler:  UPGRADE: Corsair H60 (2018 Model) Hydro Series AIO Liquid CPU Cooler

Graphic card manufacturer / model number:  UPGRADE: Liquid cooled MSI GeForce GTX 1080 SEA HAWK X 8GB 256-Bit  GDDR5X  PCI Express 3.0 x16  ATX Video Card  

Bios:  1.0.12

Operating System:  Windows 10 Home  v.1803

Power supply:  UPGRADE: Seasonic Focus Plus Gold, SSR-850FX, 850W Compact  Modular Power Supply

Monitor:  Samsung S34E790C - 34-Inch Curved WQHD (3440 x 1440) LED Monitor using Displayport.   









Edit: 06/06/19

Case fan upgrades here
PSU upgrades here
Non-Dell GPU upgrades here




Phanteks case swap summary here
Case swap rather than case mod for more cooling options here and here and here
Motherboard connections for case swap here
Full liquid cooling with waterblock here

 

0.jpg2.jpg3.jpg4.jpgIMG_5575.jpg
IMG_5587.jpg

Tests slim 15mm fans with HWInfo.

Idle CPU Temps 32C. 
Idle fan speeds intake 450-500 RPM
CPU FAN and TOP FAN = motherboard headers 

***Prime 95 v2.66 CPU Torture Test, Small FFT, 12 cycles.  60 minutes:    

CPU temps 66-70C.  Max temp 75C (boost)
Clock speeds 3492 mHz (~10% overclock @ 65W TDP), max 4490 mHz
Voltage stable at 1.022, max was 1.3



Upper Intake Fan (CPU FAN) CPU cooler max RPM 1078
Lower Intake fan (TOP FAN) GPU cooler max RPM 1019
Upper exhaust fan fixed 1500 RPM. 

Prime 95. initial boost of CPU 100% load at 4490 mHz at 110 W / 1.3v.  Then tests at stable ~10% overclock 3492-3589 mHz at ~65W at 1.022 volts, temps 66-70C.

***3d Mark Fire Strike Test for system 1080P, ~ 7min.:

CPU Temps: Max 75C
Clock speeds max 4388 mHz
Voltage max was 1.31

Upper Intake Fan (CPU FAN) CPU cooler max RPM 906
Lower Intake fan (TOP FAN) GPU cooler max RPM 869 
Upper exhaust fan fixed 1500 RPM. 

GPU Temps: Max 79C
GPU Fan speed, 1100 RPM idle, max RPM 2822
GPU Clock max 1961 mHz

So far, CPU temps okay.  But GPU temps high, will check bezel airflow.....

***3d Mark Fire Strike Test 1080P, ~ 7min
(front bezel off to test airflow restriction)

CPU Temps: Max 72C 
Clock speeds max 4388 mHz.
Voltage max 1.31

Upper Intake Fan (CPU FAN) CPU cooler max RPM 853
Lower Intake fan (TOP FAN) GPU cooler max RPM 1183
Upper exhaust fan fixed 1500 RPM. 

GPU Temps: Max 72C
GPU Fan speed, 1100 RPM idle, max RPM 2611
GPU Clock max at 1965  mHz

Changes with front bezel off:

CPU temps dropped by 3C 
GPU temps dropped by 8-10C 

CPU temps acceptable through bezel.  GPU airflow through bezel needs tweaking!

==========
The install:

image.png

Tasks for upgrade in new XPS 8930: 
1) Install Corsair H60 (2018 Model) Hydro Series AIO Liquid CPU Cooler 
2) Install lower front intake fan/radiator with liquid cooled MSI Sea Hawk GTX 1080 HYBRID GPU
3) Upgrade PSU to Seasonic Focus Plus Gold, 850W Compact Power Supply

I need to accomplish this keeping in mind the following:
-Run the Corsair CPU cooler pump at constant 100% speed
-Requires fans connected to both 4 pin fan headers (CPU FAN) and (TOP FAN) to avoid startup error.  

==========
Installing Corsair Liquid CPU Cooler:
New 2018 Corsair Hydro Series H60 has 157 x 120 x 27mm radiator and SP120 PWM fan.  Pump has rotating barbs for hose placement to avoid the swinging PSU.  Pump connects to a PSU SATA cable for 100% power and the radiator PWM fan to the CPU FAN motherboard 4 pin header.  Optional tach cable to monitor pump speed and provide a signal to the fan header to prevent startup errors.  Fan specs: SP120 PWM, 1700 RPM, 28.3 dBA, 57.2CFM.

Slim fan for tight location: Noctua NF-A12x15 PWM, 1850 RPM  23.9 dBA  55.44 CFM / 1400 RPM 16.8 dBA  41.67 CFM

The 3 pin version is a good option at fixed speed to noise tolerance for constant airflow.

Review below posted 60C temps with i7 8700K CPU  30 min stress test at stock clocks.

 image.png

https://proclockers.com/reviews/cooling/corsair-hydro-series-h60-120mm-liquid-cooler-review

Nice installation guide here:
https://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/corsair-h60-review.html

The XPS 8930 chassis is similar to the Alienware R5/R6/R7, but the Alienware allows for CPU liquid cooling by having an opening to mount the fan/radiator through the top of the chassis, an installation bracket, and a top cover to house the unit.   

With no such space in the XPS 8930, I saw two possible locations a liquid cooler could be installed:  Upper exhaust and front intake.

1) Tried the upper exhaust position first without success with the radiator in the top exhaust fan location. The problem is that the rigid hose fittings protrude into the case 20mm.  The PSU bracket is not able to close. 

I also tried the radiator upside down with the hoses above the motherboard.  But with the radiator lined up with the top exhaust opening, a CPU power connector, capacitor and fan header block the area at the hose fittings. 

2) Next the front upper intake position at the hard drive location. With intake cooling, cool air enters the radiator but warm air exits into the case.  Should not be a problem if CPU temps are ok.

I found that the radiator can install with hoses up or down.  With the radiator upside down, the hoses can spread on either side of the motherboard ATX connector.  

Picture bottom install location:

PSU B3.jpg

Flipping the radiator upright, the swinging PSU bracket negates any liquid cooling in that location with the hoses up as the bracket cross bar crushes the hoses when lowered. 

Radiator up.jpg

However, I found that by removing the cross bar off the bracket and a small corner off the bracket support leg it would work.    

So I chose having the hoses up as the installation path.

1)  Flatten the wire holders in that location.

IMG_5408.jpg

2)  Remove the two support legs and the swinging PSU bracket by removing screws at the leg supports and a few at the rear. 

3) Used dremel reinforced cutting wheel to do about 5 minutes worth of cutting, then deburring the cut edges.

Picture dremel cuts. (Additional recommended cut to use 25mm fan here)

 image.png

image.png

4)  Then placed the radiator up with the hoses at the front of the chassis. The bottom of the radiator fits between the two screws that hold down the supports of the PSU bracket.

5) Attach the 15mm fan with the model label showing for pull orientation and use 4 - 1” or 1 ¼” 6-32 machine screws to attach the radiator.  NOTE:  The 6-32 screws used for the radiator have a different thread than the 6-32 hex head screws being used in the case.  Big box stores have these screws.

Pic of screws

 image.png

image.png

6)  Carefully mark the location of the holes in the radiator and drill four holes to mount the radiator to the front of the chassis. 

How I did this was place the radiator, then use tape on the front of the chassis to mark the sides of the radiator position.

Then put another piece of blue tape across the front of the radiator at the middle of the top holes. 

image.png

image.png

With the radiator in position inside the chassis and the sides lined up with the tape, look through the rear grill at the blue tape and mark the height of that tape on the front chassis.  Marks represent the height of the radiator holes. 

Mark the height of the holes with another piece of tape across the front of the chassis.

image.png

You now have the height of the top holes.

image.png

7) Place a fan on the chassis between the two pieces of tape at the sides and line the two top holes with the radiator mark.  Mark all four holes .  Again tape off the case well to make sure you don’t get metal filings anywhere. 

Mount the radiator with fan to the chassis using ¾” 6-32 machine screws.  

image.png

9) Installing the pump head:

image.png

Clean CPU with alcohol.  You see the 4 mounting holes here

image.png

Using th 4 double sided pins, put the lower pins into the mounting holes.  No modifications needed, the unit is set up for the Dell motherboard LGA1151 CPU socket.  Mount the cooler pump by placing the corner attachment brackets on the upper pins and tighten the thumb screws.  You can’t overtighten these, they just won’t turn any further when tight. 

 image.png

10) Connect radiator fan to the 4 pin CPU FAN header. 

11) Attach pump SATA power to the PSU. 

12) With no cross bracket on the PSU swinging bracket, there is room for the pump hoses to flex under the PSU.  There is a smooth rounded edge where the bracket contacts the hoses when closed.  As an additional precaution install braid wrap on the upper part of the hose for protection at that point.

Done!

Picture again from top, note no bar on the PSU bracket and the edge of the lower part of the PSU bracket that will contact the hoses when down.

image.png

==========

Installing MSI GTX 1080 Hybrid GPU:  The 151mm high radiator is installed in a sideways position with the hoses in front.  The GPU is 10.5” long leaving little room for both fan and radiator at the lower intake position.

With little space to put a fan on the radiator inside the case, the slim 15mm fan was mounted in front of the chassis and under the front bezel.  The front bezel is over 20 mm deep so the fan is able to still pull air from the bezel front side vents.

Picture front bezel

 image.png

1) The only problem encountered was a large raised hole in the middle of the front of the chassis which interfered with fan placement.  Keep turning the fan to the position centered to the radiator where the fan frame doesn't hit that large bump. 

2)  Check that the side of the radiator is clear of the swinging arm of the PSU bracket.   Important!.

3)  Drill 4 holes, attach the fan to radiator using 4- 1 ¼” 6-32 machine screws. 

 image.png

I also used a10mm foam compressible Phoyba radiator gasket on the radiator due to the 1" wide flange at the rear of the front chassis.

Pesky.JPG

It supports the Alienware R5/6/7 front intake fan bracket that snaps in at this location.  That piece of metal prevents the radiator from sitting flush.  The gasket took up that space.  It has adhesive on one side to attach to the radiator.  

IMG_5612.jpg

Note: In the picture of the front bezel a large plastic hollow pin sticks up that would hit the fan in that location.  Trim with the dremel cutting wheel.

 image.png

Picture front install, note no bar on the PSU swinging bracket.

 image.png

image.png

4) Connect the slim fan on the AIO radiator to the 4 pin header (TOP FAN).   (Noctua NF-A12x15 FLX  1850 RPM  23.9 dBA  55.44 CFM / 1400 RPM 16.8 dBA  41.67 CFM)

Notes

Protect the radiator fins with a piece of cardboard taking the GPU in/out.  They are bent easily by the corner of the GPU.

 

Edit 9/18/18  GPU temps resolved here: (must read prior to installing, grillwork is removed)

Edit 02/23/19  Recommended cuts to use 25mm fan on CPU radiator here and here

Edit 03/15/19  Fixed speed radiator fan CPU temps 55°C range here

 

**This thread edited for accuracy, add'l pics and current information.

 

 

798 Posts

September 5th, 2019 10:00

Reply to @NightsongWS 

But, until then... I must make use of this fantastical beast!

 

I feel the same way about how this machine performs after the case swap.

The case swap really brought out the true potential of the XPS 8930 components after adding a liquid cooled CPU cooler in a new case with better airflow.  

Case swapping is the way to go if you are pushing this machine. 

By the time you order the parts to quiet the machine to acceptable levels you would have spent at least $80.

1) 120mm top fan bracket from the big auction site: $20
2) R5/R6/R7 front intake fan bracket: $20
3) Two fans for those brackets: 2 x 20: $40

If you add an upper front intake fan to help cool the machine further: $20

So that's approx. $100 to get the machine to a quiet acceptable level and you will still have CPU and GPU temperature issues if you are gaming or rendering video with no opportunity to add liquid cooling for the CPU or GPU without doing some case modding.

 

Basic cost for the case swap is new case + the USB card + jumper cable.

Cost of the new cases that I tried, each of which includes one or two fans is $60-$100.
Add the cost of the USB 3.0 PCI-e card $20 + Jumper cable $6

With the case swap, you now have to option of adding the 120mm/240mm/280mm radiator cooling options that you need for a high performance machine, have better SSD/HDD placements, the ability to add LED functions, and the option of using more robust non-Dell GPU designs, etc.

 

 

 

Also, in regards to the potential fan/radiator hose issue in your machine, you can always just remove the second upper exhaust fan in the forward position. 

The single upper exhaust fan + the rear exhaust fan is plenty in that case since the airflow through that front mesh is great.  I liked that Phanteks case for the same reason, that there was very little change in temps from restricted airflow through the front bezel.

5 Practitioner

 • 

274.2K Posts

September 5th, 2019 10:00

@NightsongWS 

We don't even believe you have a computer until you post photos of that beautiful machine.

798 Posts

September 30th, 2019 09:00

@KoopaR8 

Just the size of the case.

Bigger case is better for you for more airflow unless you have space constraints.

There is some basic info here on that R8 case swap.

 

86 Posts

September 30th, 2019 09:00

@HanoverB I have an Aurora R8 and I want to swap the case so I can add better cooling.

what's the difference between the fractal meshify C and the MINI?

what case would you recommend?

October 15th, 2019 16:00

Thank you @HanoverB  for this great post!

I recently purchased a new XPS 8930 and I'm disappointed. It feels like a step back in comparison to my older XPS 8700.

I've done some customization to the desktop (based on suggestions I’ve seen around the forums), but there is one thing I need help with.

First off, I added/replaced the following:
Replaced the stock PSU with a Corsair RM750x
Added a EVGA GeForce RTX 2070 Black (I bought the XPS without a dedicated graphics card).
Replaced the stock hard drive with a Samsung 970 Pro 512GB NVMe (Primary)
Added a Samsung 860 EVO 1TB SSD (Secondary)
Replaced the stock Killer Wireless card with an Intel WiFi 6 AX200NGW (the Killer Wireless card actually flat out died about a week into using the PC).
Replaced the stock CPU cooler with the ARCTIC Freezer 11 LP

I realize I could have just built something myself at this point, but I got a screaming deal on the XPS and a few of the parts so the investment was relatively low.

Even with these improvements the system still seems to windup a lot, so I’ve take additional steps.

I recently purchased a front fan, specifically the Dell 7M0F5 Alienware Aurora R5 Front Case Fan w Plastic Bracket from the big auction site (I guess you’re not allowed to say their name here?).

I wanted to also replace my top fan as it looks to be a 92mm, not the 120mm. I looked at the big auction site and found a Dell XPS 8910 8920 Alienware Aurora R5 Top Cooling Case Fan 7M0F5 X64T5, but I am unclear if it is 120mm. I emailed the seller but no reply. Anyone have any insight into that?

This might not be Dell's finest XPS desktop but thanks the great community here, for all your awesome suggestions, it will be better then it was!

798 Posts

October 15th, 2019 23:00

@GameCrusader 

Glad you found this thread useful.  Lot of solid contributions from the community found here.

You're on the right track.  Nice GPU and PSU updates.   Solid SSD choices, that machine is really quick the way you have it set up.

Both of those fan brackets with fans are the right parts.  Top and front intake.

Once you get the brackets you will likely swap those OEM fans for less noisy ones if you are putting any kind of load on your machine.   There is more info on the case fan upgrade post on the first page of this thread with some great pics from @Anonymous.  

Assuming that you have a I7 CPU, that Arctic CPU Cooler will be quieter than the stock cooler but will be ineffective temperature wise if you put a load on the CPU.    Try it for a while, see if temps are okay for what your primary tasks are.

Also nice to know there is a inexpensive replacement available for the wireless card on the motherboard should it ever go bad.  Thanks for that Intel model number.  Assuming that W10 found a driver for it and it works fine in your system?

October 16th, 2019 11:00

Thanks @HanoverB 

I'm hoping the additional front case fan and replacing the top 92mm fan with the 120mm fan will keep the computer from sounding like a jet engine! I will report back once I have it all complete. 

Yup, Windows 10 will find that WiFi/Bluetooth card no problem. If not, you can always grab the OEM from Intel's site. 

Thanks again for your great info!

Cheers.

5 Practitioner

 • 

274.2K Posts

October 16th, 2019 12:00

@GameCrusader   I'm hoping the additional front case fan and replacing the top 92mm fan with the 120mm fan will keep the computer from sounding like a jet engine! I 

Absolutely should make a big difference. Below is a comparison of 92mm and 120mm fans, and a photo of the top exhaust fan bracket you need.

120mm is 70% additional area compared to 92mm. As @HanoverB mentioned, consider upgrading the Dell OEM industrial grade server fans to something more quiet.

IMG_3738.JPG

October 16th, 2019 12:00

Yes, I'll do that next! Thank you!

October 21st, 2019 09:00

After everyone’s great advice, here is my (hopefully) final mod setup for my XPS 8930:

Replaced the stock PSU with a Corsair RM750x
Added a EVGA GeForce RTX 2070 Black (I bought the XPS without a dedicated graphics card)
Replaced the stock hard drive with a Samsung 970 Pro 1TB NVMe
Replaced the stock Killer Wireless card with an Intel WiFi 6 AX200NGW
Replaced the stock CPU cooler with the ARCTIC Freezer 11 LP
Replaced stock 92mm top case fan with Noctua NF-S12A 120mm fan; Required purchasing new bracket from the online auction site
Add Noctua FS-S12A 120mm front fan; Required purchasing mount from the online auction site

The only thing different from my previous post is the additions of the top and front fans and I removed the 970 Pro 512 GB/860 EVO 1 TB and replaced them with a 970 Pro 1 TB. This allowed me to remove more parts from the chassis.

Under normal working conditions I can’t even tell the computer is on!

I fired up Shadow of the Tomb Raider (I am a heavy gamer) and started Intel Extreme Tuning Utility Package Temperature to see how it would perform. While playing the Package Temperature would sit right around 160-170 F. You could definitely hear the CPU and GPU fans kicking and I can feel some decent heat coming from the top exhaust fan, but I don’t think this is near thermal melt down status. In the summer time I think this might be a little more of  a challenge as my place gets pretty warm.

Is there any other tests I should be doing to make sure I can call this project done/safe?

2 Intern

 • 

2.2K Posts

October 21st, 2019 11:00

The only thing different from my previous post is the additions of the top and front fans and I removed the 970 Pro 512 GB/860 EVO 1 TB and replaced them with a 970 Pro 1 TB. This allowed me to remove more parts from the chassis.

You either have a limitless supply of Samsung SSDs/ deep pockets/ love of using full MLC NAND for all of your needs (system + storage).  That 1TB of MLC sounds like an overkill to me but I can't say it hasn't crossed my mind especially with the very same reason of making more space in the tiny XPS/R8 case.

Under normal working conditions I can’t even tell the computer is on!

Awesome!! Yeah, noctuas tend to have that magic when you don't get a borked unit that has that ever faint ticking sound. I think your combination of silent fans and air cooling beats some AIO liquid cooling setup in terms of idle sound. I can hear the slight buzz from my 2 AIO pumps on idle.

Is there any other tests I should be doing to make sure I can call this project done/safe?

Prime95 FFT for CPU

3DMark or Heaven benchmarks for GPU

The tests are closer to what I call torture tests and don't reflect the heavy gaming workloads you will be using this rig for. FFXV would be another test, especially with the DLSS effects.

798 Posts

December 12th, 2019 12:00

 

Lower PSU support arm removal for anyone that might need to do so in the future:

IMG_4736.jpg

270mm from top to bottom, not quite tall enough to put in a 240mm radiator AIO.  Typically measure 275mm in height.

There is a mention of putting a 240mm AIO radiator at the bottom of the case on that thread.  Those with a -K processor who are overclocking have hit the thermal limits of the single 120mm radiator in the case.  So anyone with a -K processor in this XPS 8930 will have the same issue.  A CPU 240mm AIO has not been mounted in the lower position yet.  A 240mm GPU AIO has been mounted on the Aurora R9 here.

Bottom.JPG
In the pic above of the rear and the black plastic bottom of the case, if one were to drill some holes there at the back, or cutaway some of the plastic it would allow airflow into the bottom of the case.  There is some airflow from the front of the case from the holes in the front bezel.   Just not sure there is enough of a chamber there for airflow to support a 240 mm radiator with the back cutaway as well.  

798 Posts

December 22nd, 2019 04:00

Location for 240mm AIO in front of the chassis for anyone looking to cool their -K overclocked CPU.

Removal of top PSU bracket support arm.

Details here

Few cuts and one hole drilled to accomplish this.

IMG_4947.JPG

798 Posts

January 5th, 2020 07:00

New Noctua slim 15mm black fan, same specs as NF-A12 x15 brown fan.

PWM fan can be run off a 4 pin header for motherboard control or fixed speed using  3 x 4 pin SATA fan cable adapter

https://noctua.at/en/nf-a12x15-pwm-chromax-black-swap 

nf_a12_15_chromax_black_1_1.jpg

 

 

798 Posts

January 5th, 2020 08:00

Dremel work for Alienware Aurora R8 GPU cooler at lower front intake for radiator and fan coupling centered to chassis by @GTS81 

https://www.dell.com/community/Alienware-Desktops/Aurora-R8-Experience-of-Buying/m-p/7443457/highlight/true#M21486 

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